All-grain Homebrew Beer Recipes | Page 389 | Browse 225,000+ at Brewer's Friend

Author:

jkircher

Boil Size: 8.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.054

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 1.0

Primary Temp: 68 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 2/19/2015 10:00 PM

Notes: .546 lbs beet sugar at 90 minutes

2.2 lbs beet sugar at 15 min.

4 weeks at 46 degrees in secondary

Author:

BigDaddy84

Boil Size: 3 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.035

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.75

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 65 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 1/18/2017 12:47 PM

Notes:

Author:

danbrough

Boil Size: 15 Litres

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.048

Efficiency: 72

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 20 ° C

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 5/16/2015 4:31 AM

Notes:
Brewing notes:
Used about 38g of Willamette original recipe is Kent Goldings.
Nice dark red colour in the wort.
Got 1.057 at 14L and ended up with OG: 1.06.
Pitched at 22c.
Day 1:
Ended up running hot as on day 1.
Left in a cool room it was 22 for most of day without heat or blanket.
Day 2: Fermenting at 20, krausen might have fallen.
Day 3: Slowed considerably, krausen gone and its at 1.028.

If the mash was 70c -> FG 1.018
72c -> 1.022 which is still ok but getting sweet. Should be at most 1.018 for this style. Recipe says it should be 1.015.
Perhaps it best to keep temps rising and start low with US04.

RECIPE: MCQUAKER'S OATMEAL STOUT OG: 1.055 (13.5 °P) FG: 1.016 (4.1 °P) ADF: 70% IBU: 36 Color: 35 SRM (69 EBC) Alcohol: 5.1% ABV (4.0% ABW) Boil: 60 minutes Pre-Boil Volume: 7 gallons (26.5L) Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.047 (11.6 °P) Percent English Pale Ale LME (3.5 °L) 6.8 lbs. (3.08kg) 66.0

Steeping Grains
Flaked Oats (1 °L) 1.0 lb. (0.45kg) 9.7 Chocolate Malt (350 °L) 0.75 lb. (340g) 7.3 Victory Malt (28 °L) 0.75 lb. (340g) 7.3 Crystal (80 °L) 0.5 lb. (227g) 4.9 Black Roasted Barley (500 °L) 0.5 lb. (227g) 4.9

Hops IBU
Kent Goldings 5% AA, 60 min. 1.8 oz. (51g) 36.1

Yeast White Labs WLP002 English Ale, Wyeast 1968 London ESB, or Fermentis Safale S-04 Fermentation and Conditioning Use 11 grams of properly rehydrated dry yeast, 2 liquid yeast packages, or make an appropriate starter. Ferment at 68° F (20° C). When finished, carbonate the beer to approximately 2 to 2.5 volumes.

Partial Mash Option Reduce the English extract to 5.4 lbs. (2.45kg). Mash all of the grains, including the oats, along with 2 lbs. (0.9kg) of American two-row

Author:

truckmann

Boil Size: 6.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.045

Efficiency: 65

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.5

Primary Temp: 68 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 7/14/2015 7:33 PM

Notes: http://byo.com/stories/issue/item/2989-flanders-red-style-profile

Don't tell me you hate sour beers. If you are a regular reader of this column, you know what I am going to say next: You don't like poorly made sour beers. I run into lots of people that say they do not like sour beers. When I do, I hand them a well-made, delicately balanced sour beer, with lots of complexity, and wine-like notes. A beer with notes of cherry, caramel, some vanilla, chocolate, an oaky finish, and yes, it even has barnyard notes. What do they say then? "Hey, this isn't like the sours I tried before. I like this."

The same thing goes for IPAs, stouts, brown ales, fruit beers, and every other style that someone declares, "I hate those." Okay, I am sure some people do not like certain flavors; I get it. But more often than not, the reason someone hates a beer style is they have just been fed bad examples. I think that happens way too often with sour beers. So many contaminated beers get entered in competition as "Belgian" or "Lambic" or some other poor excuse to cover the brewer's tracks. Even when the souring is intentional, there are lots of bad examples. Think of it this way: if the base purpose of brewing a pale ale is to have created alcohol, then just because it has alcohol does not mean it is a great pale ale. The same goes for sour beers. Just because a beer is sour, that does not make it a great sour beer.

A great sour beer may not be for every palate, but they are far from nasty. When well made, they are beautifully balanced and supremely drinkable. In a beer style like Flanders red, the sour and the funky are balanced with the malt character and residual sweetness, making an intriguing and enjoyable combination.

Flanders red is often a deep red to reddish-brown color. It is a complex beer with obvious fruity notes reminiscent of cherry, currants, plums, figs, and blackberries. From the oak aging, it often has a touch of oaky vanilla and some tannic wood notes. The barnyard-like notes from Brettanomyces fermentation adds complexity. One mistake brewers make on this style is fermenting with a phenolic yeast, causing a high level of spicy phenols. At most, any phenolic character should be a restrained background note. The malt character is bready, with a touch of caramel, and has some residual sweetness to balance the tart acidic character, which ranges from just balancing to intense. Bad examples will often have too much of both sour and sweet, becoming cloying. Great examples will have a balance where the combination of sweet and sour never overwhelm the palate. A good example of the style is well-attenuated with no noticeable hop bitterness or hop character. While some commercial examples exhibit a wide range of vinegar and butter (acetic acid and diacetyl), both flavors are only acceptable in very small amounts

A good base for Flanders red consists of a large portion of Vienna or Munich malts. You can pair this up with high quality Pilsner malt or you can use all Vienna or Munich. The Vienna and Munich malts give more of a rich bready character, while the Pilsner malt is lighter and grainier.

I consider mid-color caramel malts (30-70 °L) such as CaraVienne® and caramel Munich a requirement for this style. They increase color and add residual sweetness, which helps balance the sourness. You can also use other dark caramel malts, such as caramel Munich 120 °L, to add a raisin-like sweetness to the beer. In general, these sweeter specialty malts should total 5 to 10% of the total grist.

You can use other grains such as wheat, biscuit, aromatic, and others for additional complexity. It can be a way to help differentiate your beer from other entries in competition. I recommend keeping those additional grains to no more than 10% of the total grist. What you want is for the specialty malts to accentuate the malty Pilsner/Vienna/Munich base, not outshine it.

Extract brewers should use Munich malt extract as the base. Most Munich malt extract is a blend of Munich and Pilsner (or other pale malts) in different percentages. The Munich malt in the blend adds a nice bready malt character. All-grain brewers should use a single infusion mash, in the range of 154-158 °F (68-70 °C). If you are brewing a bigger beer, use the lower end of the range. If making a smaller beer, choose the upper end of the range.

Hop flavor and hop aroma are non-existent in Flanders red. Even hop bitterness takes a back seat to the rest of the beer character. You want just enough bittering to provide a slight balance to any residual malt sweetness. Hop iso-alpha acid can also affect the ability of bacteria to replicate. The more hop bitterness in your beer, the more difficult it is for the bacteria to sour the beer. The drier and more sour the finished beer, the less hop bittering required. As far as hop selection, low alpha hops are a good choice. Avoid high alpha or highly pungent American-style hops. I prefer Kent Goldings, but many other hops work well. Just select hops that are more on the flowery or fruity side and low alpha acid. The bitterness to starting gravity ratio (IBU divided by the decimal portion of the specific gravity) generally ranges from 0.2 to 0.4. If this is the first time you are brewing this style, aim for the middle at 0.3. All hop additions should be early in the boil.

Fermentation is where you succeed or fail at Flanders red. I know many people have reported success repitching dregs from their favorite bottles of this and that beer. I have done this as well, and the results can be surprisingly good or surprisingly bad. If you are going to attempt this, try growing up the culture first in a liter of starter wort and see what that tastes like before committing to a full-sized batch of wort.

After some experimentation and fiddling around with blending my own Brettanomyces and bacteria strains, I learned that both Wyeast and White Labs have outstanding blends that make excellent Flanders red. As a bonus, they are relatively easy to work with and produce consistent results if you provide a consistent environment. My absolute favorite for this style is Wyeast 3763 (Roeselare Blend). This is a perfect blend of yeast and bacteria intended to produce the distinct flavors of the classic Flanders red and brown beers. The results are spectacular and can produce exceptionally accurate reproductions of the best commercial Flanders red ales out there. If you prefer White Labs, their WLP655 (Belgian Sour Mix I) produces great results as well.

The two most important parameters in fermenting your Flanders red are oxygen and temperature. Too much oxygen is bad and so is too much heat. Warmer temperatures speed up the process of souring, but can also lead to harsh off-flavors. The temperature where you store your secondary carboy should never exceed 68 °F (20 °C). Ideally, you would keep it in the 65-68 °F (18-20 °C) range for the entire time.

Traditionally, brewers such as Rodenbach have put their beer in large oak foeders (see photo on page 25), which both evens out temperature swings (because of their large volume of liquid) and allow very low levels of oxygen to slowly reach the beer over time. The organisms present take up this micro oxygen and affect the development of flavors important to the style. You want to oxygenate your wort before you first pitch your culture, but after that, keep the amount of oxygen that reaches the beer to a minimum (not zero). A very tiny, slow imperceptible amount. I like to use the soft rubber carboy caps (usually orange or yellow). They do not exclude oxygen very well and if you keep the surface area of the beer small, I have found they let in just about the perfect amount of oxygen. If there is a large surface area of beer present, the beer might take up too much oxygen, resulting in a poor flavor profile full of vinegar and acetone.

The most straightforward way to work with these blends is to oxygenate your wort like any other beer and then add Wyeast 3763 (Roeselare Blend). Ferment it like usual at a temperature around 65-68 °F (18-20 °C). At the end of this initial fermentation, there should be a yeast cake on the bottom of your fermenter. You need to rack the beer off the yeast cake and into a smaller vessel to minimize the headspace. When I do this, I start the process in a 6.5-gallon (25 L) carboy with 5.5 gallons (21 L) of beer and then I transfer to a 5-gallon (19-L) carboy for the second, longer fermentation. I use the smaller carboy so that the liquid portion fills up into the narrow neck of the carboy. This minimizes the amount of oxygen taken up by the beer (and organisms present) during six months to a year or more of time. I like to add some medium toast French oak cubes when I rack to the smaller carboy as a great way to mimic the flavor of the oak and the micro oxygen of the large foeders.

Now, keep in mind, this process will take time. You will probably see a little pellicle form on the surface of the beer. That is generally a good sign of healthy Brettanomyces and the slow ingress of oxygen. If you do not see a pellicle form, do not worry. You can take samples with a wine thief or even an eyedropper to measure the specific gravity and taste the progress of the souring, but do not overdo it. A sample after the first three or four months and thereafter is good. You do not want to keep disturbing the pellicle and you do not want to take so much out that the level of the liquid moves down into the widest part of the carboy. I put my carboy into a temperature stable, dark spot and forget about it for months at a time. Small temperature shifts of a degree or two over the course of a day are not a big deal and the gradual change by a few degrees with the changing of seasons is not a problem. However, large daily swings can negatively affect the results, so try to find the most stable spot in your home. Any part of a building that gets direct sun tends to have a larger temperature swing, so try to pick an interior or basement space. I am sure there are some of you that have heard of breweries making very sour beers in far less time by increasing the temperature and oxygen levels. I would urge you to be patient. Quickly soured beers that contain Brettanomyces are often harsh and unpleasant to drink. There is a reason why people covet the best of the complex soured beers. It takes a long time and an artistry to brew them. Be an artist, be patient, and craft a great beer.

Some people like very sour beers and some like the more balanced approach. Count me in on the balanced side when it comes to Flanders red. The best examples have a wonderful balance of sour and sweet. The sourness in the beer helps make up for the lack of hop bitterness, cutting the soft malt sweetness. Traditional Flanders breweries blend young and old beer, seeking to develop a balance. (Unfortunately, some use artificial sweetener to balance their beers. Ugh.) You can do the same at home, brewing a batch every year and blending various vintages to the perfect balance and character. If you are not up for that challenge, it is possible to get a similar, although not as certain, result using other methods.

One method is to brew a bigger beer, where the initial fermentation creates a bit more alcohol and a bit more residual sweetness, which affects the ability of some organisms to work efficiently. You can even start with a clean ale yeast and then pitch your mixed culture once that fermentation has finished.

A second method is to arrest the process of souring once the beer has reached the preferred level of sourness. This method is effective, but I don't always like it because the beer's character may not fully develop by the time the souring has reached the level you like. When the beer seems ready to your taste, move it to refrigeration. If you keep it below 40 °F (4 °C), the process slows down tre-mendously and the beer should re-main the same for some time. Recipes Flanders Red (5 gallons/19 L, all-grain) OG = 1.057 FG = 1.008 IBU = 16 SRM = 15 ABV = 6.5% Ingredients

5.3 lbs. (2.4 kg) Vienna malt (4 °L) 5.3 lbs. (2.4 kg) continental Pilsner malt (2 °L) 8.5 oz. (0.24 kg) Aromatic® malt (20 °L) 8.5 oz. (0.24 kg) caramel Munich (60 °L) 8.5 oz. (0.24 kg) caramel Munich (120 °L) 3.5 AAU Kent Goldings hops (60 min.) (0.7 oz./20 g at 5% alpha acid) Irish moss (15 min.) 1 oz. (28 g) medium toast French oak cubes (added in secondary) Wyeast 3763 (Roeselare Blend) or White Labs WLP655 (Belgian Sour Mix I) yeast Step by Step

I currently use Best Malz Pilsen and Vienna, but feel free to substitute any high quality malt of the same type and color from a different supplier. The Aromatic® malt is from Briess and the two types of caramel Munich are from Franco-Belges. My hops are in pellet form and come from Hop Union, Willamette Valley, or Hopsteiner depending on the variety.

Mill the grains and dough-in targeting a mash of around 1.5 quarts of water to 1 pound of grain (a liquor-to-grist ratio of about 3:1 by weight) and a temperature of 154 °F (68 °C). Hold the mash at 154 °F (68 °C) until enzymatic conversion is complete. Infuse the mash with near boiling water while stirring or with a recirculating mash system raise the temperature to mash out at 168 °F (76 °C). Sparge slowly with 170 °F (77 °C) water, collecting wort until the pre-boil kettle volume is around 6.5 gallons (25 L) and the gravity is 1.044.

The total wort boil time is 90 minutes, which helps reduce the S-Methyl Methionine (SMM) present in the lightly kilned Pilsner malt and results in less Dimethyl Sulfide (DMS) in the finished beer. Add the hops with 60 minutes remaining in the boil. Add Irish moss or other kettle finings with 15 minutes left in the boil if you please. Chill the wort to 68 °F (20 °C) and aerate thoroughly. For this beer, I like a pitch rate of two packages of the liquid yeast blends. I'm not sure what that pitch rate is, given the mixed nature of these cultures, but I like the results.

Ferment around 68 °F (20 °C) until the yeast drops to the bottom and forms a layer. With healthy yeast, this should be complete in two weeks or less, but there is no need to rush it. Rack the beer to a smaller secondary container, add the oak cubes, and close with a very slightly permeable closure, such as a carboy cap. Place in a spot protected from light and check every couple of months to see how your baby is coming along. It can easily take a year or more to fully develop. Be patient. When the beer has developed the character you desire, you can rack to a keg and force carbonate or you can add priming sugar and a fresh dose of yeast to carbonate in the bottle. Be careful, if you bottle too early, there could still be significant sugars present for the Brettanomyces to continue to consume. Once the beers are carbonated, store in the refrigerator to prevent bottle bombs. Target a carbonation level of 2 to 2.5 volumes. Flanders Red (5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains) OG = 1.057 FG = 1.008 IBU = 16 SRM = 17 ABV = 6.5% Ingredients

7.2 lbs. (3.25 kg) Munich liquid malt 8.5 oz. (0.24 kg) Aromatic® malt (20 °L) 8.5 oz. (0.24 kg) caramel Munich (60 °L) 8.5 oz. (0.24 kg) caramel Munich (120 °L) 3.5 AAU Kent Goldings hops (60 min.) (0.7 oz./20 g at 5% alpha acid) Irish moss (15 min.) 1 oz. (28 g) medium toast French oak cubes (added in secondary) Wyeast 3763 (Roeselare Blend) or White Labs WLP655 (Belgian Sour Mix I) yeast Step by Step

There are many Munich extract blends out there. It is always better to choose the freshest extract available. If you cannot get fresh liquid malt extract, see if you can find a dry Munich extract instead. The Aromatic® malt is from Briess and the two types of caramel Munich are from Franco-Belges. My hops are in pellet form and come from Hop Union, Willamette Valley, or Hopsteiner depending on the variety.

Mill or coarsely crack the specialty malt and place loosely in a grain bag. Steep the bag in about 1 gallon (~4 L) of water at roughly 170 °F (77 °C) for about 30 minutes. Lift the grain bag out of the steeping liquid and rinse with warm water. Allow the bag to drip into the kettle. Do not squeeze the bag. Add the malt extract and enough water to make a pre-boil volume of 5.9 gallons (22.3 liters) and a gravity of 1.048. Stir thoroughly to help dissolve the extract and bring to a boil.

Once the wort is boiling, add the hops. The total wort boil time is 1 hour after adding the hops. Add Irish moss or other kettle finings with 15 minutes left in the boil if you please. Chill the wort to 68 °F (20 °C) and aerate thoroughly. Follow the fermentation and packaging instructions for the all-grain version.

Author:

Cain Piper

Boil Size: 28.8 Litres

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.041

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: 3.4

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 1.5

Primary Temp: 12 ° C

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 10/18/2016 7:22 AM

Notes:

Author:

Steeler2258

Boil Size: 5.8 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.07

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.25

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 68 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 9/27/2016 8:36 PM

Notes: Total mash water needed 8.43 33.7
Strike water volume at mash thickness of 1.5 qt/lb 4.69 18.8
Remaining sparge water volume 3.74
Amount going into kettle 6.62 26.5
Adjusted starting boil size 6.78 27.1
Amount going into fermentor 5.2 20.8
Total: 8.43 33.7

Author:

barleywhore69

Boil Size: 7 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.038

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 69 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 11/16/2014 12:15 AM

Notes:

Author:

Rodrigo Wantuk

Boil Size: 21 Litres

Boil Time: 45

Boil Gravity: 1.031

Efficiency: 65

Mash Thickness: 3

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 1.0

Primary Temp: 20 ° C

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 12/14/2015 1:54 PM

Notes: 1. Tratar 10 Litros de Água conforme target para Light Lager, favorecendo pouco corpo e pouco amargor.
2. Elevar os 10 litros para uma temperatura de 45ºC e então adicionar os maltes.
3. Manter a temperatura em 42ºC durante 10 minutos para a primeira rampa de temperatura, a beta-glucanase, cujo objetivo é diminuir a viscosidade do mosto devido a grande concentração de cereais não maltados.
4. Elevar a temperatura para 50ºC e manter durante 15 minutos, onde a ação das proteases estará ocorrendo na chamada parada proteica, cujo objetivo é quebrar as cadeias maiores de proteínas (devido a alta quantidade de trigo), diminuindo assim a viscosidade e corpo da cerveja.
5. Faltando pouco tempo para acabar a proxima etapa, tratar mais 13 litros de água e elevar eles a temperatura de 80ºC, preparação para a lavagem dos grãos após o mash-out. Nosso objetivo é utilizar 11 litros apenas, mas seguiremos adicionando até ter uma OG pré-boil de aproximadamente 1.031.
6. Elevar a temperatura para 64ºC e manter por, pelo menos, 50 minutos, sempre fazendo o teste do Iodo. Beta-Amilase irá transformar o amido em maltose, o alimento para as leveduras. Após os 50 minutos, ou o teste do iodo estar quase bom, subiremos a temperatura para 68 graus nessa reta final, para não deixar a cerveja totalmente sem corpo.
7. Uma vez passando pelo teste do Iodo, elevar a temperatura a 78ºC (não passando 79ºC de forma nenhuma) e manter por pelo menos 12 minutos, para a inativação das enzimas.
8. Realizar o sparge (caso não tenha feito fly-sparge) e então a lavagem dos grãos, adicionando agua tratada a 80ºC até atingir uma OG pré-boil de aproximadamente 1.031, o que nos dará uma OG de aproximadamente 1.046.
9. Realizar a fervura normalmente, 60 minutos devem bastar, onde a primeira adição de lupulos será aos 15 minutos de fervura, 45 minutos para a conclusão. A proxima adição de lupulos será faltando 30 minutos para o fim da fervura.
10. Faltando 10 minutos para o fim da fervura, adicionamos a semente de coentro, triturada.
11. Faltando 5 minutos para o fim da fervura, adicionamos em uma hop bag as raspas de lima e de limão, e o capim limão. Adicionamos também, fora da hop bag, 1/2 unidade de Whirfloc.
12. Ao desligar o fogo, aguardar 10 minutos com panela fechada antes de tirar a hop bag com as raspas e ervas. Após aguardar os 10 minutos, faremos um Whirpool vigoroso com o mosto ainda quente.
13. Após feito o Whirpool, aguardaremos pelo menos 10 minutos (com o mosto tampado) e então iniciaremos a resfriar o mosto utilizando um chiller de contra-fluxo + gelo com o intuito de baixar a temperatura o mais rapido possível, em menos de 10 minutos.
14. Após atingir nosso target de 23~26ºC (Iniciando fermentação em temperatura alta), inoculamos um fermento previamente hidratado (WB-06) e levaremos o fermentador a geladeira, regulada em 21ºC durante os primeiros dois dias.
15. No terceiro dia de fermentação, abaixaremos a temperatura para 20ºC e assim seguirá até o termino da fermentação primária (duas semanas, FG estabilizada).
16. Fermentação secundária a 25ºC durante 3 dias, incrementando 1,5ºC/dia.
17. Cold Crash, geladeira no máximo (limite de 0ºC, na pratica será algo em torno de 6ºC) por, pelo menos, duas semanas. Iniciado o processo de maturação + Cold Crash.
18. Passadas as duas semanas de maturação (minimo), a cerveja será envasada com uma quantidade de 8g/Litro de açucar para primming durante pelo menos 10 dias, a temperatura ambiente.
19. Passado os 10 dias, só gelar e aproveitar a Lemon Soul Witbier.

Obs.: A FG desta receita está abaixo do aceitável na categoria WitBier, porém isso resultará numa elevada Drinkability, que é o real target da receita.

Author:

Kitties'N'Beer

Boil Size: 10 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.031

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: co2

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 8/21/2020 11:46 PM

Notes:

Author:

Nosybear

Boil Size: 6.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.044

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.25

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: 4 Oz in 1 C water

Creation Date: 7/30/2018 3:18 AM

Notes: Kentucky Common is a pre-Prohibition style popular in northern Kentucky and southern Indiana. It's currently kept alive by two brew pubs and homebrewers. The beer is one of three uniquely American beer styles. Since no one really knows what this tasted like, I'll just experiment until I get a beer I like. 8/28/16. I have a beer I really like, freezing the recipe.

Target bitterness is 20 IBU

Ferment at 68 degrees.

8/28/16: Renamed to "Hilltopper's Pride", scaled to 6 gallons. Targeting 20 IBU in next batch.

GABF silver award in Historical category, 2017, Ironworks Brewing.

Gold Medal, Historical, Arapahoe Co. Fair Homebrew Comp 2018. 3rd Place, Craft Beer Competition (professional), Colorado State Fair.

Use 1liter starter based on fresh yeast.

1/29/19: Reverting to 2017 recipe. 1.5 liter starter.

12/30/19: Added 1 oz of Crystal 80, changed flavor hop to Hallertau, note: DO NOT USE BLACKSTRAP MOLASSES. Use a milder form such as Brer Rabbit or Grandma's.

4/8/2021: Very minor tweaks: Molasses to 3 oz, Crystal 80 to 4, IBUs lowered to 20. Water recalculated to RO.

Author:

João Paulo

Boil Size: 44 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.043

Efficiency: 60

Mash Thickness: 3

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 18 ° C

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 4/20/2016 12:00 PM

Notes:

Author:

richard_mcateer

Boil Size: 26.5 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.056

Efficiency: 78

Mash Thickness: 3

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 19 ° C

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 7/26/2015 2:40 PM

Notes:

Author:

midge196977@yahoo.com

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 15.6

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Plato

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 2.0

Primary Temp: 68 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 4/28/2015 10:12 PM

Notes:

Author:

Jericho Brew

Boil Size: 7 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.042

Efficiency: 68

Mash Thickness: 1.3

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 70 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 3/16/2015 9:03 PM

Notes: Late hop additions are what makes this an outstanding IPA. The hop flavor and aroma profiles up front make this a fan favorite. I literally can't keep enough on tap as it goes almost as quickly as I brew it. Cheers!

Author:

nwklassen@gmial.com

Boil Size: 1.25 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.06

Efficiency: 72

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 2/3/2015 2:58 AM

Notes:

Author:

Neil S

Boil Size: 6.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.037

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.4

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: co2

Priming Amount: 14.39 psi

Creation Date: 9/6/2021 4:42 PM

Notes:

Author:

Atlantucky Brewing

Boil Size: 42 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 9.8

Efficiency: 83.5

Mash Thickness: 1.3

Sugar Scale: Plato

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 8/2/2022 8:52 PM

Notes:

Author:

kmacwilliam

Boil Size: 7.25 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.026

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 2

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: co2

Priming Amount: 3.5 oz

Creation Date: 3/22/2019 8:56 PM

Notes: Add half the gypsum to 3.5 gal of water. Heat water to 145 degree F (62.5 C) water and mix well. The temperature will stabilize between 130 and 135 degrees F (54.5-57 C). Add heat if necessary and hold the temperature at about 133 degrees F (56 C) for 30 minutes. Don't worry about a 3- to 5-degree F (2- j C) temperature drop during this time.

Raise mash temperature to about or just below 155 degrees F (68 C). Hold at 149 to 155 degrees F (65-68 C) for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Complete conversion by raising the temperature to 158 degrees F (70 C) and holding for 10 to 20 minutes or until an iodine test indicates complete conversion. Then add more heat to raise the temperature to 167 degrees F (75 C).

Sparge with 3.5 gallons (131) of hot water at 170 degrees F (76 C) (add the other half of the gypsum to the sparge water). The volume of the wort before boiling should be about 7.5 gallons (21 I).

Bring the sweet wort to a boil and add the rapidura or invert sugar and boiling hops and boil for 50 minutes. Add the Irish moss and boil for 5 more minutes. Then add the aroma hops and boil a final 5 minutes. Cool the wort to about 70 to 75 degrees F (21-24 C).

The final primary batch size is 5.25 gallons (20 I). If necessary, add additional cold water to achieve this volume. Add yeast when the temperature of the wort is about 70-75 degrees F (21~24 C). Preferably ferment at 70-72-degree F (21-22 C) range for about 4 to 6 days or until fermentation is complete and appears to clear and darken. At this point, transfer the beer into a secondary fermenter and add the 1/2 ounce (14-gm) Kent Goldings hop pellets. Let the fermentation complete and settle in the secondary for 7 days. For best results, secondary "cellar" or age at 50 degrees F (l0 C) to help drop yeast out of suspension, but this is not at all crucial to the quality. Bottle with corn sugar. Age and carbonate/condition at about 70 degrees F (21 C).

Author:

dpatrickv

Boil Size: 7 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.037

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 7/29/2016 3:05 PM

Notes:

Author:

Pulga

Boil Size: 35 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.039

Efficiency: 73

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.5

Primary Temp: 18 ° C

Priming Method: Forced Carbonatation

Priming Amount: 12psi

Creation Date: 7/27/2016 11:47 PM

Notes: