Homebrew Beer Recipes | Page 246 | Browse 310,000+ at Brewer's Friend

Author:

SchuBrew

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.066

Efficiency: 65

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 50 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 10/22/2015 4:01 PM

Notes: 2nd place Champion of the Point 2016

1st place Kansas City Bier Meisters 2016

Author:

Boil Size: 30 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.036

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.75

Primary Temp: 20 ° C

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 4/17/2015 7:10 AM

Notes: Pitch your yeast and ferment at 65F (18C) for three days and then let the beer free-rise to about 68F (20C) and leave it for seven days, and then try to get it up over 70F (21C) for a few days of clean-up.

carbonate to 2 volumes of CO2.

Author:

cadarnell

Boil Size: 3.25 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: N/A

Efficiency: 80

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 4/4/2012 4:38 PM

Notes:

Author:

SoloBrew

Boil Size: 1.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.04

Efficiency: 50

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 65 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 8/11/2016 1:55 AM

Notes:

Author:

Silver Brock

Boil Size: 0.75 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.258

Efficiency: 35

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: Extract

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 60 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 12/1/2014 4:12 AM

Notes:

Author:

Kev Head

Boil Size: 31 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.048

Efficiency: 65

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 20 ° C

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 1/15/2014 1:12 PM

Notes:
carafa addition is actually 250g in the mash and 525g in the sparge.

Author:

robf

Boil Size: 6 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.05

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: Partial Mash

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 72 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 7/23/2013 6:38 PM

Notes: NorCal Brewing Solutions Lagunitas India Pale Ale (DME Version)

Ingredients List:
○ 6 Pounds Golden Light DME
○ 1 Pound Pale Ale Malt
○ .4 Pound Carapils Malt
○ .3 Pound Crystal 60 Malt
○ .2 Pound Munich Malt
○ .75 Oz. Magnum Hops 11% alpha acids - 60 minute boil
○ .90 Oz. Cascade Hops 5% alpha acids - 30 minute boil
○ .25 Oz. Willamette Hops 5% alpha acids - 30 minute boil
○ 3.15 Oz. Cascade Hops 5% alpha acids - flame out
○ 5 Teaspoons Fermax
○ 1/4 Oz. Polyclar 10
○ White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast -OR- Safale US-05 Dry Yeast

Equipment List:
○ Brew Pot: Pot or Kettle (with lid) that can hold 7+ gallons (28+ quarts) of water.
○ Hot Liquor Pot: Pot or Kettle that can hold 1.5+ gallons (6+ quarts) of water
○ Nylon mesh bag
○ Colander (plastic, metal, etc. is fine)
○ Usual array of fermenting equipment (hydrometer, bucket or carboy, etc.)

Procedure:
○ In the brew pot, heat 76 ounces of water to 160 degrees

○ Place crushed grains into nylon mesh bag. Tie top of bag onto itself to keep it from coming open.

○ Place nylon bag with grains into your brew pot. Temperature should drop to around 154 degrees due to the room temperature grains being introduced to the hot water. If it is a couple degrees too high or too low don't worry.

○ Steep nylon bag at around 154 degrees for 45 minutes. You can bob the bag up and down, but do not squeeze it. You can heat the brew pot on low heat if the temperature drops below 150, but be careful not to scorch the nylon bag or its contents. If you apply heat, try not to let the temperature get above 156 degrees.

○ While grains are steeping, heat 1 gallon of water in the hot liquor pot to 170 degrees.

○ Get the straining colander ready. If it fits nicely over your brew pot and lets you be "hands free" that is great - otherwise you will need a helper. Colander needs to be clean but does not need to be sanitized.

○ When steeping is done, remove the nylon bag from brew pot. Place colander over brew pot, place grain bag into colander above brew pot - again, do not squeeze the bag!

○ Evenly pour the 170 degree water over the top and sides of the nylon bag while it is in the colander. This will extract and rinse any remaining sugars in the crushed grain. DO NOT SQUEEZE the bag trying to get extra "juice" into your brew pot!

○ Remove grain bag from colander, set aside. Remove colander from brew pot.

○ Add approximately 4-1/2 gallons of water to your brew pot – making it a total of 6 gallons in the pot.

○ Bring the 6 gallons of wort to a full boil in the brew pot.

○ While water is heating:
○ Discard spent grains from nylon mesh bag. The spent grains are great for your garden!
○ Thoroughly rinse the nylon mesh bag. You will need it again in a short while.

○ Once boiling, remove brew pot from flame. Slowly stir in contents of dried malt extract. Try to make sure there are no clumps. You don't need to worry about sanitization.

○ Return to flame, and bring to boil again.

NOTE: AS YOU APPROACH 200 degrees watch for boil-over! If foam starts rising, quickly turn down the heat or spray the foam with clean water from a spray bottle. You may have to do this several times.

○ Once you are at full boil and the threat of a boil-over is gone, start your 60 minute timer.

○ Add Magnum hops.

○ Boil vigorously for 30 minutes. This will put you at the "30 minute" mark.

○ At the 30 minute mark add the .90 ounces of Cascade hops and .25 ounces of Willamette hops

○ At the 10 minute mark add 5 teaspoons of Fermax (ratio is 1 teaspoon per gallon of beer).

○ If you are using an immersion chiller, submerge it in the brew kettle at the 10 minute mark. Be careful of any hot water that may come bubbling out of the inlet and outlet of the wort chiller!

○ At the 0 mark, turn off the flame, then add the 3.15 ounces Cascade hops.

○ COVER THE BREW KETTLE AND LET THE WORT SIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE COOLING. This is an unusual step in "normal" brewing, but this is how Tony Magee of Lagunitas Brewing Company says to do it, so we don't question it, right?

AT THIS POINT SANITIZATION IS IMPORTANT THROUGH THE REST OF THE PROCESS!!!

○ If you are using a wort chiller go ahead and start the chilling process. If you are NOT using a wort chiller then leave lid on brew kettle while cooling. Move kettle to ice bath and/or swirling running water in sink to cool contents below 80 degrees.

○ While wort is cooling, sanitize your bucket or carboy, funnel, air lock, nylon straining bag, and any other equipment your wort will come in contact with.

○ Once wort is below 80 degrees, pour the wort out of the brew kettle through nylon straining bag into your bucket or carboy. (If using a carboy you will need a funnel. Pour wort through nylon mesh bag and catch the strained liquid in the funnel).

NOTE: The nylon mesh bag will filter easily at first, but then will start plugging. DO NOT squeeze the bag. Instead, move the contents around the bag by tipping the bag in all directions, letting the wort drain through unclogged mesh openings. Continue to do this until the boil kettle is empty, and what is left behind in the nylon mesh bag is approximately the consistency of cottage cheese. Again - never squeeze the bag!

○ If you have less than 5 gallons of wort, top off bucket or carboy with clean water to the 5 gallon mark. If the water in your area isn't good for brewing (or if you have a well) use purified water or boiled water that has been cooled. DO NOT USE DISTILLED WATER.

NOTE: It is best to pitch yeast at the actual fermentation temperature. That way your yeast will be comfortable that the temperature isn't changing and will go to work faster. Try to adjust the temperature of the added water so that the combined 5 gallons of wort are as close to fermentation temperature as possible.

○ Aeriate the wort as much as possible. This can be done by shaking the carboy side to side, swirling with a large sanitized spoon, or transferring from sanitized bucket to sanitized bucket several times with hard pours. For best results use an aeration system (such as an oxygen stone).

○ Take sample of wort so you can do a gravity reading. Make sure whatever you dip into your wort is sanitized. A wine thief is the perfect tool for taking samples of wort out of your bucket or carboy.

NOTE: Hydrometers are calibrated for accurate readings at 60 degrees. You may need to put your wort sample into the fridge for a while to cool it to 60 degrees.

○ Pitch yeast after sanitizing the yeast packet or vial AND whatever tool you use (scissors, hands, etc.)

○ Cap bucket or carboy. Place airlock into opening. Fill with vodka to designated line. If vodka is not available, use StarSan solution. If StarSan solution not available use plain water.

○ Set in a dark area. Ferment at 70 degrees. If using a carboy, cover carboy so light won't get to your wort.

○ Verify your wort sample is near 60 degrees. Take a gravity reading and write it down in your brewing notes. The gravity reading is the line at which the hydrometer floats in the liquid wort sample - wherever the meniscus of the liquid (without bubbles in it) is at on either side of the hydrometer line: that is your reading.

NOTE: NEVER pour wort samples back into the bucket or carboy! It is not worth the chance of contaminating the wort you worked so hard to make!

○ Wait at least 5 days AFTER airlock stops bubbling before transfer to secondary. The longer you wait the better your beer will taste, but don't go longer than 3 to 4 weeks.

○ Sprinkle ¼ ounce of Polyclar on top of wort once it is in secondary. This will help produce the clearest beer by settling solids to the bottom of your bucket or carboy.

○ Leave in secondary a few days for beer to clear. If you can wait 1 - 2 weeks, that is even better.

○ If bottling: Transfer to bottling bucket. Stir in 1 ounce (by weight) of priming sugar per gallon of beer. It is best if you add the priming sugar to 1 cup of boiling water, then cool to room temperature before adding to bottling bucket.

○ If kegging: Transfer from secondary to keg. Cool keg to 34 degrees. Run 20 - 25 pounds of CO2 initially to speed carbonation, then reduce CO2 pressure to your normal serving pressure.

Author:

MatteoL

Boil Size: 14 Litres

Boil Time: 45

Boil Gravity: 1.073

Efficiency: 35

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: Extract

Pitch Rate: 0.75

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: Zucchero bianco

Priming Amount: 147g

Creation Date: 3/25/2014 10:40 PM

Notes: Starter con 1,2 lt d'acqua e 150g di DME. Una volta pronto: messo in frigo per qualche giorno per sedimentare almeno un po' il lievito. Appena fuori dal frigo ne elimino un po' nel lavello, facendo tornare il volume a 1,2 litri.

Il luppolo usato era del raccolto 2012 (vecchio 1 anno e mezzo!) quindi ho ridotto gli AA stimati.

Cotta: 30/03/2014

Togliere dal frigo lo starter del lievito e decantare con delicatezza un po' di liquido, eliminandolo nel lavello.

Mettere in frigo (e poi nel freezer, stando attento che non ghiaccino) le 4 bottiglie d'acqua.

Infusione grani (120g CaraPils + 120g CaraMunich II) in poco meno di 1 litro d'acqua, circa 68°C x 30 minuti.

-In parallelo cominciare a portare a bollore il pentolone con circa 9 litri d'acqua, aggiungendo mezzo cucchiaino di Gypsum.

-Con un cucchiaione raccogliere un po' di trebbie in un grosso colino/colapasta, a formare un letto di trebbie.
-Scaldare un po' d'acqua in un pentolino.
-Pseudo-sparge sulle trebbie, filtrando attraverso il colino, versando nel pentolone l'acqua appena scaldata del pentolino.

-Rabbocco pentolone fino a 11,5-12 litri
-Porto a bollore
-In parallelo scaldo una latta di LME per ammorbidire l'estratto.

-Aggiungo latta di LME + il sacchetto con 350g di DME.

Bollire per 45 minuti:
12g Perle + 12g Saphir

-Scaldare intanto l'altra latta di LME per ammorbidire l'estratto, e aggiungerla a 10 minuti dalla fine.

-Inserire la serpentina di rame appena prima di spegnere il fuoco.

-Spegnere il fuoco

-Aggiungere 8g Citra, 7g Perle, 6g Saphir e lascare in infusione.

-Raggiunti gli 85°C aggiungere 10g Citra, 8g Perle, 6g Saphir.

-Sotto i 75°C avviare la serpentina per raffreddare il mosto.

-Sanificare: fermentatore, imbuto, rubinetto, gorgogliatore.

-Aggiungo l'acqua delle bottiglie refrigerate, cercando di non ossigenare il mosto.

-A 20°C travaso nel fermentatore filtrando e lasciando una/due dita di melma nel pentolone.

-Controllare OG e incoculare il lievito.

NOTA: le infusioni di luppolo a fuoco spento sono ben poco utili se durano pochissimo tempo. Calcolare una pausa un po' più lunga (mettere luppolo solo nel breve passaggio tra gli 85°C e i 75°C è inutile!)

Dry Hopping con aggiunte multiple, (semplicemente perché speravo di ricevere in tempo luppolo più fresco):

06/04/2014
20g Citra (2012)
10g Chinook (2012)
7g Perle (2012)
7g Willamette (2012)

10/04/2014
20g Citra (2012)
10g Chinook (2012)
7g Perle (2012)
7g Willamette (2012)

11/04/2014
10g Citra (2012)

13/04/2014
Travaso nel secondo fermentatore
FG: 1.012

14/04/2014
Imbottigliamento

Priming: zucchero bianco, 9 g/litro (147g x 16,3 litri). Stimo 3.0-3.2 volumi di CO2

Note: rotto 3 bottiglie da 50cl. Travasato il possibile in 4 bottiglie da 33cl. Alcune bottiglie non si sono tappate bene, non usare più Schwerter Brau e Peroni da 66!

Primo assaggio a 2 settimane dall'imbottigliamento. Molto deludente. Due problemi evidenti: lievito troppo insistente e luppolo vecchio.

NOTA:
Per la prossima volta: prima del dry hopping lasciar maturare la birra nel fermentatore almeno altre due settimane, e utilizzare luppolo non vecchio un anno e mezzo! Immagino che un paio di settimane in più nel fermentatore diano al lievito un po' di tempo per diventare meno invadente.

Intuisco che le bottiglie avrebbero bisogno almeno di un altro mese di maturazione (in realtà sarebbero già pronte se fossi stato in grado di far flocculare di più il lievito, o di filtrare in qualche altro modo, ma i miei mezzi non lo permettono).
Per riassumere: prendere in considerazione che questa birra porta in sé una contraddizione. Andrebbe bevuta più presto possibile per mantenere fresco l'aroma di luppolo, ma avrebbe bisogno di più maturazione per far perdere un po' di forza al lievito.

Curioso di sapere come evolverà, anche se il luppolo, già messo male, temo che non potrà che peggiorare.
Non l'avessi luppolata così tanto sarebbe una weizen decente, con il giusto corpo, la giusta dolcezza, la giusta acidità, la giusta carbonazione e persistenza di schiuma.
Ora però al naso sento soprattutto lievito e luppolo vecchio. Non sento esteri (banana) o fenoli (chiodi di garofano, spezie), ma solo un generico e forte aroma di lievito weizen. Quindi sento il lievito, ma non quello che avrebbe dovuto produrre in fermentazione.

Il luppolo vecchio rovina tutto, togliendole freschezza e "beverinità" (?). Citra e Chinook sono diventati generici luppoli, con sentori stantii/erbacei...

Aggiornamento:
ad un mese dall'imbottigliamento il lievito è meno insistente, ma solo facendo attenzione a tenere le bottiglie in verticale, e versando lentamente nel bicchiere, lasciando 1 o 2 dita di birra nella bottiglia.

La carbonazione è eccessiva.
1) Fa sembrare la birra "acquosa". Il corpo non è assolutamente quello di una weizen.
2) La schiuma è vulcanica. Carbonazione elevata, frumento e grandi quantità di luppolo la rendono esplosiva, densa e davvero troppo persistente, tanto da rovinare ulteriormente la bevuta.

Il luppolo rimane un macello. Al naso sembra un'accozzaglia confusa, genericamente "verde" ed è seguita da uno spiacevole retrogusto. Anche il luppolo sembra mancare di "corpo".

26/11/2014
Ultima bottiglia rimasta, ha sopportato l'estate a 30° nel terrazzo. La birra dopo 7 mesi in bottiglia si è chiarificata e sembra filtrata, color ambrato carico. Nessunissimo odore da weizen. Tutto arancia, agrumi, un po' di luppolo "catty", vaniglia e caramello. In bocca si è spostata tutta sul malto. Servirebbe più secchezza per ripulire la bocca. E' diventata molto meno sgraziata. Il lievito non dà più nessun fastidio, sembra un barley wine un po' troppo acquoso, o una IPA troppo dolce e troppo poco secca. E' senz'altro migliorata. Se avesse più luppolo ancora e un po' di corpo in più sarebbe similissima a tante double IPA provate con qualche mese sulle spalle!

Ora mi verrebbe addirittura voglia di rifarne una uguale, ma con più luppolo, più secca e più amara. Forse basterebbe più amara, avrebbe bisogno di un amaro più tagliente. Il lievito dà zero problemi, e le note "vegetali" del luppolo vecchio in partenza sono scomparse. Ora sembra semplicemente una bottiglia vecchia, che ha passato l'apice. Cosa che non è (all'inizio era pessima).

Author:

Mark

Boil Size: 11.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: N/A

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 3/11/2012 12:34 PM

Notes: Get Strike water at 169 F This time. Change to sprike to 170 to get mash at 153 using 7.5 gallons water

Interesting, got hops mixed up and used Cascade and should of used Columbus, !!!!!

Beer grain supplier milled all ingredients, took all day to drain, lesson learned, do it yourself next time

Author:

Regalager

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.042

Efficiency: 72

Mash Thickness: 1.25

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 1/27/2019 1:10 AM

Notes:

Author:

GlassCityBrewing

Boil Size: 17 Gallons

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.082

Efficiency: 82

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 65 ° F

Priming Method: Forced Carbonation

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 3/4/2013 3:10 PM

Notes:

Author:

AnteK

Boil Size: 25 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.041

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 1.5

Primary Temp: 10 ° C

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 2/21/2016 1:42 PM

Notes: My recipes are all elaborated for Speidel Braumeister 20L
The recipes clone are sometimes a little different from the original but are adjusted according to the final result.

BIAB method for Braumeister 20l, efficiency 75 %
total Water: 28l.
25l to mash
3l to sparge
Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch the yeast. Ferment at 10˚C - 5 days to diacetyl rest at 20˚C.
Rack to secondary and lager for at least five weeks at 40 °F (4.4 °C) or below.

Author:

Bearded Brewery

Boil Size: 22 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: N/A

Efficiency: 35

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: Extract

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 4/1/2013 10:58 AM

Notes:

Author:

Nisse

Boil Size: 13 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.054

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: Partial Mash

Pitch Rate: 1.0

Primary Temp: 16 ° C

Priming Method: Cane sugar

Priming Amount: 140g

Creation Date: 3/3/2013 11:34 AM

Notes:

Author:

fuller1803

Boil Size: 7 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.052

Efficiency: 50

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 70 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 10/24/2017 10:08 AM

Notes:

Author:

maltyman

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: N/A

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 6/4/2012 3:04 PM

Notes: Put bourbon or scotch soaked oak chips in secondary for one week

Author:

foxchainman11@yahoo.com

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.043

Efficiency: 60

Mash Thickness: 1.25

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 1.25

Primary Temp: 66 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 8/15/2016 6:44 PM

Notes: 11.85 lbs. Golden Promise Thomas Fawcett 1.8 L
1.5 lbs. Light Munich Weyermann 7L
0.45 lbs. Crystal I Thomas Fawcett 45 L
0.45 lbs. Carapils Best Male 3L
0.45 lbs. Melanoidin Weyermann 25 L

Author:

WongWayToBrew

Boil Size: 7 Gallons

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.065

Efficiency: 65

Mash Thickness: 1.25

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.5

Primary Temp: 62 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 11/17/2014 7:28 PM

Notes: to make the temp change from protein rest to saccharafication 2 gallons @ 194 def F needed.

Author:

Bakke Brygg

Boil Size: 29 Litres

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.041

Efficiency: 78

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.75

Primary Temp: 18 ° C

Priming Method: Sukkerlake

Priming Amount: 4,5 g sukker/L

Creation Date: 3/11/2015 2:34 PM

Notes: Mengden meske- og skyllevann du bør bruke kommer an på utstyret og metoden du brygger med. Som et anslag kan vi si at du kan bruke 20 l meskevann og 13,5 l skyllevann til dette ølet. Noen bryggemaskiner (f.eks. Speidel Braumeister) kan kreve større mengder meskevann. Sjekk alltid manualen på utstyret du bruker.

Mesking på 67 grader i 60 min. Utmesk på 77 grader i 5 min hvis du har mulighet til å øke temperatur i mesken.

Kjøl ned til 17 grader før pitching av gjær.

Gjæring på 18 grader til stormgjæring begynner å avta (typisk etter 2-4 dager). Øk deretter til 20 grader og hold resten av gjæringsperioden (totalt 10-14 dager).

Gjæralternativer: WLP007, WLP037, Danstar Nottingham, Safale S-04