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Dry Hopping Beer

While hops can be added to the boiling wort for as little as fifteen, ten, or five minutes to impart aroma and flavor, true hop-heads know the best approach to really punch up the hop profile of a beer is dry-hopping. Because hops have gone up in price over the last few years, dry-hopping your home brew is something of a luxury, and it’s especially important to make sure you do it right.

Dry hopping refers to adding hops to the fermenting beer and letting them soak in it for a period of no less than 10 days. For the typical five-gallon batch of home brewed beer, one to four ounces is the appropriate range of hops to use. In dry-hopping, as with flavor and aroma hops, the strain of hops used is crucial. Since the goal is to increase the hop character, the IBU and Alpha values are much less important.  For example, Amarillo imparts grape fruit notes, Centennial adds citrus, and Nugget is herbal.

The key to dry-hopping (beyond picking a strain you like) is timing. The most common error in dry-hopping is adding the hops immediately to the cooled wort. DON’T! The initial fermentation period is an active one, and the hops (which will float on the surface of the beer for about a week or so) will be highly agitated as a result, with some of the pollen and other aromatics (and thus flavor & aroma) being quite literally ‘blown out’ of the beer. Waiting until the initial blow-off is complete (about 3-5 days) removes this risk. Additionally, the alcohol in the fermenting beer will strip off some of the acids and flavor from the hops, so adding the hops later (and letting them soak longer) gives a better, richer flavor.

The hops are added to the beer without boiling or pasteurization first. While this may seem like an infection risk, the surface of the dried hop provides a poor environment for wild yeasts and bacteria, and infection from hops is rare enough to be inconsequential. Some home brewers place the hops in a hop sock for easier collection, but unless you intend to rack the beer after the hops have been added and continue dry-hopping, this isn’t necessary. It won’t affect the product, but it will save you a hop sock.  Tips on how to fully submerse the hops are provided below.

When the hops float on the surface they are not as well utilized. However you don’t want them stuck in the trub at the bottom either. To overcome this problem, get a muslin bag or similar, and add something inert to it so it is weighed down. Then tie a string around the hops bag so you can control how far down it drops. That way the hops will be suspended below the surface of the beer. Hops are quite buoyant so make sure to provide enough weight to sink it. In this case, glass beads are used:

These were enough to keep 1 ounce of loose leaf hops below the surface.

When primary fermentation is complete and the krausen is dissipating dry hopping can begin. In this case I did not bother to rack the beer, I just added the dry hops to the primary. First I sanitized the bag, beads, and string. Then I add the right amount of hops and beads into the bag and tied it off. Then I tied a string made of standard sewing thread around the top of the bag. I opened the cork on the carboy and pushed the bag inside, careful to keep hold of the string. When the hops were submerged, I put the cork back on, and tapped off the string. I let it sit for about ten days, then kegged. Delicious!

It is also possible to dry hop in the keg. Loose leaf hops or pellets can be added directly to the keg, or weighted down in a bag similar to above. If you don’t have them in a bag expect to get hops particles floating in the beer. Some hop heads are totally fine with this. The bag also makes cleanup easier.

Posted in Brewing | 20 Comments »

Getting A Good Pour – Kegged Beer CO2 Line Length and Pressure

There are several variables that play a role in achieving this goal, AND you will need a calculator!

Factors that play a role in the quality of your pour are the following:

Beer Temperature: This will affect how readily the beer absorbs CO2. Colder beer absorbs CO2 into solution more readily. The lower the temp. the lower the pressure required to obtain a given number of volumes of CO2.

Keg Pressure: Along with beer temperature, this will control the actual volumes of CO2 in solution.

Beer Line Inside Diameter: This provides resistance, keeping CO2 in solution by slowing the pour.

Beer Line Temperature: Warm beer lines will warm the beer as it travels from the keg to your glass, causing a release of CO2.

Beer Line Length: This provides resistance, keeping CO2 in solution by slowing the pour.

Beer Line Rise to Tap: The height of the tap from the center of the keg. This provides resistance, keeping CO2 in solution by slowing the pour.

There are some simple rules to follow as well as an equation to help you balance your beer line length to accommodate the pressure needed in the keg to sustain your desired CO2 volume.

1. Keep your beer lines cold. For some this is not an issue, but if you use a draft tower you need to take care to refrigerate those lines and insulate the tower to keep CO2 release to a minimum, thus reducing foam in the glass.
2. Beer line length MUST be balanced with the amount of pressure in the keg used for serving. The longer the line, the more resistance you have.
3. Beer line inside diameter MUST be included in the beer line length calculations to properly determine length. The narrower the line, the more resistance you have.
4. Beer line RISE from the keg to the tap MUST also be included in the beer line length calculations to properly determine length. The greater the rise, the more resistance you will have.

Numbers 2-3 all work together to provide a total amount of resistance between the keg and your glass. Too much resistance and you will have a slow pour, too little resistance and you will have nothing but foam in your glass.

Here is an example of how to determine the proper temperature, pressure and beer line length for a given scenario.

BEER STYLE CARBONATION GUIDE

Beer Temperature: 38F

Keg Pressure: 21.7 PSI

Volumes of CO2: 3.50

Beer Line ID: 3/16” inside diameter plastic beer line

Beer Line Temperature: COLD (ideal)

Beer Line length: 6′

Beer Line Rise to Tap: 24”

Beer Line Length Formula:

L = (P -(H x .5) – 1 ) / R

Where:
L = length of beer line in feet
P = pressure set of regulator
H = total height from center of keg to faucet in feet
R = resistance of the line from the following table
1 = residual pressure remaining at faucet (this can be increased to 2 if you need to increase pressure to increase dispense rate)

L = ( 21.7-(2 x .5)-1 ) / 2.7

L = 7.3 feet of beer line, or 7′ 4”

In this scenario the beer line length is too short, ideally one would have over 7′ of beer line to create enough resistance to counter the 21.7 PSI in the keg to obtain the volumes of CO2 for this German wheat beer. If you simply reduce the temperature of the beer to 33F and reduce the pressure to 18.3 PSI you will still achieve 3.50 volumes of CO2 in your beer, but the reduction in pressure will now not overwhelm the 6′ beer line that you have. Pressure and resistance are now balanced.

Posted in Kegging and CO2 | 28 Comments »

Baby Hops Cones

The cones are starting to form on the hops plants outside. I just wanted to share a few pictures.

This one is hallertau:

This is from nugget:

Posted in Hops Growing | 2 Comments »

Malted Grain Types and Mash Profiles

Today’s modern, high quality and highly modified malts are excellent performers for the home brewer. As with nearly any ingredient, the science behind the creation and use of any malt should be clearly understood in order for the brewer to create the desired outcome. Malt type, mash temperature and mash time all play a large role in the final product. Seeing as though the sweet wort that is created by the mashing process is the base for any beer being brewed, it is imperative that the brewer know what is going IN to the process so that he/she may know what they will get OUT of the process.

Malted barley can be classified in several categories:

• Pale Malts (base malts)
• Crystal (caramel)
• Roasted (highly kilned)

The following is an overview of the particulars with each malt type, including the kilning/roasting process, typical mash temperatures, mash times and any special instructions for their use.

Pale Malt (2 row and pilsner base malt):

Kilning/Roasting: The kilning temperature is quite low, between 104F and 113F. The ventilation is very high and therefore the malt is dried to a moisture content of 10% very quickly. Once below 10% the temperature can be raised, raising the temperature earlier would result in the destruction of too many enzymes. The low moisture content protects the enzymes. Pale malts are generally cured at 176F to 203F for about 5 hours.

Mash Temperature:
Beta Amylase 131F-150F, maltose is produced Lower final gravity, dryer beer.
Alpha Amylase 154F-162F, maltose and other sugars are produced. Higher final gravity, maltier beer.

Mash Time: Conversion can be complete in anywhere from 30 minutes to 90 minutes. The lower the mashing temperature, the longer conversion will take, the higher the temperature the faster conversion will be. Typical mashes are approximately 60 minutes.

Special Instructions: This malt MUST be mashed to convert starches to sugars. The mash temperature will determine the fermentability of the final wort and must be monitored closely.

Crystal (caramel malt):

Kilning/Roasting: This is imperative when compared to the kilning process of the pale malts. Crystal malts when wet (green) are put into the kiln or roaster from the germination tanks and the moisture is kept very high with absolutely no ventilation. Additionally water is frequently sprayed to keep the moisture high. The temperature is raised to 140F to 158F for 30 to 40 minutes. Then the temperature is raised to 302F and normal ventilation is resumed for 1 to 2 hours, depending on how much caramelization is desired (i.e. depending on whether 10L crystal or 120L crystal is being made). If prepared in the kiln, further drying is necessary.

This process essentially causes conversion to take place inside the husk (moisture and heat), therefore denaturing the enzymes and converting the starches to sugars. This removes the need for this malt to be mashed, and therefore it can be steeped in hot water for extract brewing.

Mash Temperature: No need to be mashed as the starches were converted in the kilning process. This malt can be steeped for extract brewing, or used in a mash with the remainder of an AG mash.

Mash Time: No mash needed. Generally mashed with the remainder of the grain bill.

Special Instructions: These sugars are not as fermentable, resulting in a fuller, maltier beer. Use as 5% to 25% of the grain bill.

Roasted Malt (highly kilned malt):

Kilning/Roasting: Creating this malt is a matter of taking a typical pale malt similar to Pilsner or 2 Row and place it in a roasting drum. Water is sometimes used to cool the malt quickly when the roasting is complete. The main difference between this roasting and the curing of Pale malts is temperature and time, both being increased in the production of this malt.

Mash Temperature: No need to be mashed as the starches were converted in the kilning process. This malt can be steeped for extract brewing, or used in a mash with the remainder of an AG mash.

Mash Time: No need to be mashed as the starches were converted in the kilning process. This malt can be steeped for extract brewing, or used in a mash with the remainder of an AG mash.

Special Instructions: Dark roasted malts can provide needed color and flavor to darker beers, but can also add some bitter astringency. One technique to provide a smoother flavor is to add this malt at the end of the mash so as to lessen the astringency it can contribute.

Posted in Ingredients | 5 Comments »

The Dark Side of Home Brewing

Brewing has a dark side.  It has yet to be brought to light by the dozens of books I have read on home brewing.  The multitude of people online who I have connected with about brewing have never spoken about it.  The brewing industry itself wants us to believe it is a myth.  That dark side is alcoholism, or alcohol dependency, and it is a terrible component to drinking.  Not everyone is blessed with the ability to moderate their intake. Not everyone is smart enough to treat alcohol responsibly.  Every brewer should know what alcoholism and alcohol dependency are, and how dangerous a full blow case can be.

My goal with this article is to simply inform.  I want to be clear, I am not saying that brewing beer, going to pubs, and enjoying beer is a negative thing.  Alcohol is reported to have positive health benefits, when used in moderation. Drunk driving, loosing one’s spouse, or destroying one’s health are negatives that are involved with alcohol when it is used irresponsibly. Some people have a genetic predisposition to becoming an alcoholic, or a family history of alcohol abuse, which puts them at a higher risk.

Something I was not aware of is alcoholism and alcohol dependency are the same thing.

The word ‘dependency’ sounds so innocent.  The dependency leads to a steady progression associated with more and more alcohol intake, and that is what causes all the damage.

For the official medical description see: https://www.mentalhealth.com/dis/p20-sb01.html

Some Warning Signs:

• If you are developing a tolerance for alcohol, and need to drink more to get the same effect, that is a warning sign.  Making up for drinking by exercising, eating healthy, and getting more sleep is only going to feed into increasing tolerance.
  

• Inability to cut back is a warning sign. That means it is a habit, and the progression has started.

• If you find yourself making excuses to justify drinking, that is a warning sign. These may include social drinking, celebratory drinking, drinking to reward oneself, or on the negative side, drinking to cope with stress, physical pain, or to numb negative emotions.

• The idea that it isn’t alcoholism until it impacts your life in a major way is completely flawed. Even something as simple as a mild headache in the morning, weight gain, or slight depression is a health impact.  Consider that increased drinking is the cause. Multiply a mild headache over a month, or an extra few pounds over a year, and now it is a chronic condition. Over time, excess drinking will lead to problems in all aspects of life, especially the ones you care about most.

• Bottom line: If you think you have an alcohol dependency you do, and you need to address it. Private counseling is one very good option. Self moderation is likely not to work. Only 20% of people are able to stop on their own. Beyond that, support from family, friends, and an alcoholics anonymous club should be sought out.

This website has a guide on what constitutes alcoholism, and a short quiz you can take yourself:
https://www.hsc.wvu.edu/som/cmed/alcohol/alcoholism/alcoholism.htm

What is at stake here?
Alcoholism has a progression.  It starts with a higher tolerance, which kicks off a cycle of increased intake.  At this point attempts to scale back may be unsuccessful.  This may continue for a number of months, years or decades.  Over the course of that time, long term drinking causes harmful health effects.  Its not just the liver that gets hurt. Research indicates the brain chemistry governing emotions of happiness are at stake. Hardened alcoholics actually loose the ability to enjoy themselves unless they have recently had a certain amount of alcohol. This is something alcohol has in common with harder drugs like meth.

Most home brewers are smart, hands on, creative, and self sufficient people. These positive attributes are made possible because of our brains. The thought of loosing that to alcohol is horrifying.   There are social impacts as well. Alcoholism effects the alcoholic and everyone around them.  The thought of loosing employment, spouse, friends, and faith is also horrifying.

Anyone who has a history of alcoholism or a family history of alcoholism should strongly consider avoiding home brewing as a hobby.

We brewers are often surrounded by alcohol, involved in the production of it, and even its perfection.

Home brewing ultimately leads to having large quantities of high quality beer on hand at a very affordable price.  At home you are surrounded by reminders of brewing – the equipment, the bubbling fermentor, the empty bottles, the spreadsheets on your computer’s desktop, the hops outside the house, and the closet or fridge full of beer just waiting to be enjoyed.  These reminders can be triggers for cravings.  Acting on those cravings repeatedly can lead to higher tolerance, and that is when the progression begins. The progression is dangerous because it can slowly creep higher and higher. There is such a thing as a functional alcoholic, but functioning at what level, and for how much longer?

In the past, I was always surprised to see a craig’s list post of a home brewer selling off their entire kit for a ridiculously low price.  My original thought was, once you figure out how to brew beer that is perfect to your own taste, why ever stop?  One explanation is they brewed themselves into alcoholism and were forced to choose between booze or life.

Posted in Announcements, Economics of Brewing | 34 Comments »

Sparging Methods

There are several ways to extract the sugars that we convert during the mash from the grain bed, they include, fly sparging, batch sparging and NO sparging.

Fly Sparging: When the mash is complete the brewer will vorlaugh and begin the sparge. With this method the brewer wants to slowly and gently add water to the top of the mash, leaving 1-2” of water above the grain bed at all times to avoid grain bed compaction, while also slowly draining the MLT into the boil kettle at the same rate. Typically a flow rate of .5 – .75 quarts per minute will result in an effective and efficient fly sparge. For this reason it can take 40-60 minutes to complete a sparge for a 5 gallon brew session.

Pros of fly sparging include:

• While one benefit of fly sparging in the past was increased lauter efficiency, this is debatable at best and with new split batch sparge techniques, most definitely not worth the extra time that it takes to perform. Thus the increased popularity in batch sparging.

Cons of fly sparging include:

• The need to have an effective mashout, due to the fact that fly sparging can take up to an hour, the brewer will want to denature any enzymes in the mash.
• Extended fly sparging can increase mash pH to a level where tannins will be extracted from the grain husks, which is not desirable
• Channeling can become a problem if the manifold in the bottom of the MLT is not designed properly, which causes the sparge water to drive right through the grain bed, reducing efficiency and leaving sugars in the MLT.
• You must match the Inflow of the sparge water very closely to the OUTflow of the wort from the bottom of the MLT during the entire sparge.
• Possible lower quality wort during extended fly sparging due to rising pH and low sugar content of final runnings.

Batch Sparging: This is a method by which the sparge water is typically split into two equal batches. Proper and accurate calculation of the sparge water requirement is essential! When the mash is complete the brewer will vorlaugh and drain the MLT into the boil kettle, followed by refilling the MLT with the first half of the sparge water. The brewer will then thoroughly stir the mash, let rest for a few minutes, varlough again and drain into the boil kettle a second time. The last of the two sparge water infusions will follow this same pattern.

Pros of batch sparging include:

• It can be completed more quickly than the slow and steady fly sparge.
• Channeling is reduced since the MLT is being drained completely between sparges.
• Temperature control is not as critical since each sparge water infusion is so large.
• It eliminates the need to monitor the runoff speed, no need to match this with the inflow as you do during a fly sparge.

Cons of batch sparging include:

• The grain must be resettled (vorlaughed) after each sparge water addition.
• MLT size may need to be larger to accommodate the sparge water and grain volume while mixing and resting between sparges.
• Efficiency “can” suffer, though with new split batch sparge techniques, brewers achieve 80+% efficiency, which is comparable to fly sparging techniques.

No Sparge, um, Sparging: This method is just as the name suggests… a method by which there is NO sparge. In order to accomplish this method, a brewer will mash in with ALL of the water that their brew will require., this could be upwards of 9-10 gallons of water alone for a 5 gallon brew session. When the mash is complete the brewer will vorlaugh and simply drain the entire MLT into the boil kettle, and if calculated correctly, meet their pre-boil volume.

Pros of ‘no sparge’ include:

• It can be completed more quickly than either fly sparging or batch sparging.
• Channeling is reduced since the MLT is being drained completely.
• It eliminates the need to monitor the runoff speed, no need to match this with the inflow as you do during a fly sparge.
• Extremely high quality wort due to no sparing resulting in low pH and high sugar content wort.

Cons of ‘no sparge’ include:

• MLT size may need to be larger to accommodate the entire quantity of water needed to complete a brew session and the grain bill.
• Efficiency will suffer, badly, due to the lack of an effective rinse of the grain bed.
• Nearly impossible to accurately estimate the OG of a beer with this method.

Closing Thoughts: From the discussion above, it is clear to see why batch sparging, namely the split batch sparge, has become so popular with home brewers who value their efficiency and their time.  Don’t expect to hit 80% on the first try.  Water chemistry and temperature control are big parts of success in this area, so make sure to check out the calculators at this site to prepare you.

Posted in Brewing | 1 Comment »

The Hops Race

All six new rhizomes sprouted this year. Some are doing better than others. Nugget is doing the best, while cascade and magum are lagging. They were both hit with excess water during a storm. The gutter overflowed right on top of them for an hour. It was painful to watch.

All told I am really happy with the result so far:

I had planned to do a trellis system. Then I noticed the plant hanger hooks already on the house. A simple length of twine and a piece of bamboo at the foot saved me several hours of work. I had planned to do cemented posts and a 12′ trellis which could be disassembled at the end of the season and saved for next year. This was much easier and it proves just how simple hops growing is. We have been watering them every other day, about a ten second dosing with the hose.

Nugget is the offical winner this season:

Followed by:

• Hallertau #2
• East Kent Goldings
• Hallertau #1
• Magnum
• Cascade

More images to come as cones develop.

Posted in Hops Growing | No Comments »

Brew House Efficiency Defined

For the all grain brewer, brew house efficiency is of great importance. Brew house efficiency will directly affect your recipe formulation and how many pounds of malt will be required to reach a specific OG at a specific volume in the fermentor. This is a brief explanation of brew house efficiency.

Brew house efficiency is the calculation of the overall efficiency of your brewing system. It takes into consideration the percent of potential grain sugars that are converted in the mash, effectively washed during the latuer and all wort losses in your system. If you do not accurately calculate the brew house efficiency of your brewing system you will find it very difficult, of not impossible, to anticipate the OG of the recipes that you are brewing. Here are some helpful equations to calculate efficiency in your brewing system: The following equations assume 10 pounds of 2-row pale malt in 5 gallons of water, with a mash/lauter efficiency of 75%.

Calculating Extract Potential:

((grain points)*(pounds of grain)) / (volume in gallons) = extract potential
((36)*(10)) / 5 = 72 or 1.072

Calculating recipe OG:

(potential points) * (brew house eff.) = OG
(72) * .(75) 75% = 54 or 1.054

Calculating Efficiency:

(measured points) / (potential points) = efficiency
(54 or 1.054) / (72 or 1.072) = 75%

Calculating Brew house Efficiency:

(Measured Points * Actual volume) / (Potential Points * Target Volume) = Brew house Efficiency
((54) * (4.5 gallons)) / ((72) * (5.0 gallons)) = 67.5%

Each pound of grain has an extract potential per gallon of water. Typical 2-row pale malt has a potential of 36 points, or 1.036, per gallon of water. Theoretically, if you achieved 100% mash and lauter efficiency (which is impossible) you could use 10 pounds of 2-row pale malt in a 5 gallon batch of beer and achieve an OG of 1.072. Most brewers are accustomed to achieving 75% efficiency during a typical mash and lauter, which would translate into 72 potential points * .75 (75%) = 54 points, or an OG of 1.054 with a volume of 5 gallons. But…..

The above can be considered mash efficiency (mash/lauter efficiency) since it does NOT take into consideration system losses of wort. Typically this is a loss that is created in the boil kettle and is lost to hops, trub or dead space in the boil kettle. In our example, if you end up with 5 gallons of wort in the boil kettle at an OG of 1.072, you have a mash efficiency of 100%, but if you transfer this wort to the fermentor and leave .5 gallons behind due to hops, trub and dead space you have now effectively reduced your system efficiency, your brew house efficiency to 90%. This would be calculated as such.

(Measured Points (72) * Actual volume (4.5 gallons)) / (Potential Points (72) * Target Volume (5.0 gallons) = Brew house Efficiency (90%)

In our same example, if you realized a typical mash/lauter efficiency of 75%, or an OG of 1.054 at a volume of 5.0 gallons in the boil kettle and 4.5 gallons to the fermentor after hop, trub and dead space losses, your brew house efficiency would look like this:

(Measured Points (54) * Actual volume (4.5 gallons)) / (Potential Points (72) * Target Volume (5.0 gallons) = Brew house Efficiency (67.5%)

So as you can see, mash/lauter efficiency is basically your efficiency into the boil kettle, but brew house efficiency is the efficiency throughout your brewing system which takes into consideration exactly what gravity and VOLUME you get into your fermentor. Understanding this calculation and the brew house efficiency of your brewing system will allow you to achieve a precise OG and volume into your fermentor each time, resulting in repeatability.

If all this math just gave you a headache, check out the brewhouse efficiency calculator found at this site.

Posted in Economics of Brewing | 4 Comments »

Adding Fruit Flavors

Fruit-flavored beers are extremely popular, and fun to make. One advantage the home brewer has over large breweries is the use of local ingredients and less concern over cost per unit. There are three options for adding fruit flavors to your beer, and they vary in cost, effort, and flavor.

The easiest approach is to use flavor extracts. These small bottles (typically 4 to 8 ounces) can be purchased from most homebrew stores or online. Four ounces is enough to provide adequate flavor for a 5 gallon batch. The extract should be added late in the fermentation, one to two weeks prior to bottling. This will allow time for the flavors to blend together, without losing aroma. The more complex flavors a beer has, the longer it should be bottle conditioned for maximum enjoyment. The drawbacks to extracts are fairly simple. First, flavor options are limited: you’re much more likely to find a “cherry” flavor extract than a “black cherry” or “Bing cherry” extract. Dovetailing this issue is the problem that flavor extracts may have an overpowering, even artificial flavor. Banana flavor extract may taste more like banana-flavored candy than actual bananas.

The next option is to add fresh fruit to the fermenting beer. To achieve best results, a wide-mouthed carboy or covered bucket should be used for the primary fermenter. The fruit should be rinsed clean and gently crushed. (not pulped; apply just enough pressure to break the skin) Once the wort has finished boiling, remove it from the heat source, add the crushed fruit, and cover it. Let the fruit sit in the hot wort for about 5 minutes. In cooking terms, this is somewhere between “blanching” and “poaching” the fruit. Strain out the fruit, chill the wort, add the wort to the fermenter, and return the fruit to the wort once the yeast has been added. After one week, rack the beer off to a normal carboy, and thoroughly clean your fermenter. Using fresh fruit is highly dependant on supply, and this approach will give the fruit flavor, but none of the fruit’s sweetness, which will be rapidly consumed by the yeast. The result is a nice natural flavor with a nice aroma; don’t underestimate the strength of the flavor. This approach works in stouts and porters as well as it does in wheat beers and pale ales.

Your last option is to boil your wort an additional hour, reducing the volume by one gallon. Ferment as usual, but a week prior to bottling, you’ll be adding your fruit. Take 1 gallon of water, add your crushed fruit to the water, and simmer it at 160 degrees for half an hour. It is essential that the temperature not go above this level; more heat (or more time) will release pectins and other jelling agents, and instead of beer, you’ll get jam. After thirty minutes, chill the water & fruit to below 70 degrees, and add it to your beer. By adding it later, you’ll retain more of the aroma, and some of the fruit sweetness. The trade-off is that this approach is much more work.

Posted in Ingredients | 2 Comments »

Brew In A Bag (BIAB) All Grain Brewing Method

BIAB is an acronym for Brew In A Bag. It is a dead simple all grain brewing technique. All it requires is a large grain straining bag, 15 gallon kettle and a propane burner. This method is excellent for brewers who are wishing to convert from extract brewing to all grain, because you can make that leap for a very minimal cost. It will also save an all grain brewer 1.5-2.5 hours on a typical brew day. If you combine this method with the No Chill brewing method also listed on this site, you can go from extract to all grain brewing for as little as $25!

BIAB utilizes THREE pieces of equipment:

The kettle: This kettle is the ONLY vessel required to BIAB. The only special requirement is that the kettle have a volume of at least 15 gallons for a 5 gallon brew session. This is because this one vessel will have to hold your entire water requirement as well as your grain bill. This volume will regularly exceed 10 gallons. You will mash and boil in this vessel.

The bag: This is a mesh bag that is large enough to conform to the inside diameter of the kettle and reach over the top lip. This bag is sometimes likened to a large pillow case, the kettle should be able to fit INSIDE it while still being able to close the top of the bag. Typically composed of “voil” or another mesh like material, this will hold your grain bill and must be strong enough to hold the water saturated grain when you lift it out of the mash water at the end of the mash.

The heat source: This is typically the very popular “turkey fryer” burner that is used widely by home brewers. This will be utilized to provide heat for strike water, maintaining mash temperature, mash-out and the boil.

Fig 1.

The process:
Crush your grain finer than you would with a typical all grain brew. This is because you no longer have to worry about a stuck sparge. The bag is the filter and the finer crush will improve your conversion efficiency.

Fill the kettle with the TOTAL water required to complete the entire brew session. Take into consideration that the water absorbed by the grain with this method is about HALF that of a typical all grain brew session that utilizes a MLT. Remember, when you remove the grain bag after the boil, the wort that is left is exactly what you are boiling, so calculate this carefully. Insert and secure the bag at this time.

Fig 2.

After heating the water in the kettle to your calculated strike temperature, pour your entire grain bill into the secured bag. Use a mash paddle to thoroughly mix the grain with the water so that there are no dough balls. There will be a very large volume in the kettle, so temperature control should be as easy as intermediate stirring and a couple quick firings of the burner if the temperature drops.

Fig 3.

After the mash is complete you heat the mash to mash-out temperature, which is crucial to achieving good efficiency with BIAB since you are NOT rinsing the grains.

After mash-out, remove the grain bag and allow it to drain into the kettle. Some brewers will place a rope and a hook above the kettle to suspend the grain bag as it can become heavy with larger grain bills.

Fig 4.

Fig 5.

Finally, boil the wort just as you normally would.

Fig 6.

Additional References:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/more-brew-bag-biab-success-88486/
https://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=11694

Here are a few important points to make about BIAB:

**DO have a large enough kettle to accommodate about 9 gallons of water AND your grain bill.

**DO have a bag large enough that you can fit the kettle INSIDE it and still close the top.

**DO crush your grain fine, it will produce better conversion efficiency and there is no danger of a stuck sparge.

**DO NOT skimp on mash time, this is more crucial with BIAB, mash for 60-70 minutes to achieve full conversion.

**DO NOT allow your grain bag to come into contact with the bottom of the kettle when you are applying heat, it may melt! Some place a wire cake cooling rack in the kettle to lift the bag off the bottom.

Photos courtesy of user “Daddymen” on homebrewtalk.com. Thank you!

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