Brewer's Friend Home Brewing Software

Water Volume Management in All Grain Brewing

How to hit your target wort volume spot on.

There are several factors that go into how much water is lost during the brewing process from mash to fermentor.

1) Grain Absorption: Figure 1/2 quart per pound of grain. This comes out to ~1 pint (0.125 gallons) / pound of grain. Some reports are as high as 0.2 gallons per pound.

During the mash process the grains soak up water. This water is not transfered to the kettle when lautering. Make sure if you do a high gravity batch to account for this. My last big batch was a little short on wort volume and grain absorption is exactly why.

2) Mash Tun Dead Space: Dead space varies by equipment. Some of the water / sweet wort is left behind because of the shape of the mash tun or location of the valve.

I estimate 2 quarts (0.5 gallon) in my cooler mash tun.

3) Boil Off / Evaporation Rate: This depends on how vigorous of a boil and the shape of the kettle. The average is around 1.5 gallons (6 quarts) per hour. If the kettle is narrow (like a keggle), expect ~1 gallon per hour, or short and wide, as high as ~2.5 gallons / hour. If you are brewing with Pilsner malt and want to do a 90 minute boil to drive off DMS (which I do on my lagers), make sure to account for the extra boil time.

4) Trub loss: Water absorbed by hops or adjuncts. I estimate 1/2 quart (0.125 gallons).

5) Wort Shrinkage: When the wort cools it looses some volume (4% is standard). This is minor in a 5 gallon batch, about 0.8 qt in a 5 gallon batch, and 1.6 qt in a 10 gallon batch.

Example Calculation 1:
How much starting water is needed to make a 5 gallon batch given, a) 10 pounds of grain, b) 60 minute boil? I shoot for 5.5 gallons of wort, to allow for samples, losses in the fermentor and bottling bucket. It is easier to work in quarts for water volume measurements.

5.5 gallons wort = 22 quarts
Grain losses = 5 qt (10 pounds * 0.5 qt/pound)
Dead Space = 2 qt
Boil off = 6 qt (1.5 gallons/ hr)
Trub loss = 0.5 qt
Shrinkage = 0.8 qt

Total input water: 36.3 quarts, or 9.08 gallons.

Example Calculation 2:
How much starting water is needed to make a 10 gallon batch given, a) 25 pounds of grain, b) 90 minute boil? Let’s go for 11 gallons total.

11 gallons wort = 44 quarts
Grain losses = 12.5 qt (25 pounds * 0.5 qt/pound)
Dead Space = 2 qt
Boil off = 9 qt (1.5 gallons/ hr)
Trub loss = 0.5 qt
Shrinkage = 1.6 qt

Total input water: 69.6 quarts, or 17.4 gallons.

Figure out your mash tun dead space and your boil off rate, and you will be able to hit your target volume spot on every time!

Posted in Brewing | 10 Comments »

Spring Cleaning and Updates

Many updates were made to the site based on feedback from visitors:

1) Extract and partial mash brew day check lists now include a reminder to make sure all equipment is on hand. Thank you Matt for sending in that comment!

2) All brew day checklists and recipe templates have been made unit independent. They used to read pounds or ounces, which left out our brewing friends around the world who use European units. Quantities of weight simply say ‘amount’ now. When a temperature is listed both Fahrenheit and Celsius are specified. Thank you Guillermo for that comment!

3) The calculators on the site have been updated with a new grain list. There were approximately 30 grains added to the list. Thank you to Brian, Jeff, Aaron, Del, and Chris for writing in!

4) IBU calculator now accepts 5 digits as inputs for amounts.

Posted in Announcements | 3 Comments »

Second Year Hops Growth Amazes Me

The second year hops have really taken off. It is only the end of May, and two of the plants have already grown 10 feet! I am amazed at how quickly they have grown this month given we only had a few days of nice weather. For the most part is has been cloudy, grey, and 55F the whole month of May.

This should give hops growers who recently planted a better idea of what they can expect to see in subsequent years. My guess is the yield of cones will be much larger this year too.

The two that are doing the best are Nugget and Cascade.

Magnum and Kent Goldings are the shortest at less than a foot. The Hallertau is doing well at about 3 feet.

At this point, the plants are practically zero maintenance. I have gone past and trimmed off the straggler shoots, leaving the two strongest to grow up the rope. I’m using a thick twine for some, and just regular twine for others. Watering has not been an issue because it has been so wet.

Posted in Hops Growing | No Comments »

Beer Glass Cabinet in Brewery

The latest addition to the brewery is a custom beer glass cabinet.  It is made of mahogany and red oak paneling.  I inherited a melamine cabinet from a neighboor friend, face framed it, added panels, added a shelf, and built the doors.  

In total the project was  under $10 out of pocket because the cabinet was free and the wood was from pieces that had been collecting dust in the shop.  All I had to buy was the hinges. The cabinet is positioned above the keezer, such that the keezer can still be opened without interference. It took several measurements in advance to get it just right.

It is convenient to have the beer glasses on hand next to the keezer. This cabinet freed up a considerable amount of shelf space in the kitchen.  It also makes use of dead wall space above the keezer.

For stability, the cabinet is mounted to the wall with a French cleat.  Attached to the cabinet horizontally there is a 45 degree angled piece of wood.  The wall has a companion 45 degree angled piece mounted to the wall.  When the cabinet rests on the cleat, gravity takes care of locking it in place. I also use heavy screws to secure everything. See diagram below:

I may add a wall mount bottle opener to the brewery in the future.

This is one of my favorite beer quotes:

“Beer is proof that god loves us and wants us to be happy.” – Benjamin Franklin

Posted in Fun | No Comments »

Hops and Dogs

Here’s a friendly notification to all brewers who own dogs:

If a dog eats hops it can be fatal!

A study conducted by the National Animal Poison Control Center, University of Illinois in Urbana in 1995 showed this to be true. Of the eight dogs, seven were Greyhounds, one was a Labrador Retriever, all cases were fatal. The dogs had ingested spent hops. Dogs are attracted to the sweet wort covering the hops.   Cases of dogs eating raw hops and getting sick or dieing have been reported on brewing forums, but this appears to be rare and no studies have been done.

When a dog eats hops the onset of Malignant Hyperthermia occurs. Not to be confused with hypothermia, hyperthermia means the dog’s body overheats uncontrollably (2 degrees Fahrenheit every five minutes). The dog will begin panting heavily, display a rapid heart rate, and may have muscle spasms. This page has a report on how a dog was treated by a veterinarian in 2002 for such an incident: https://www.bme.ogi.edu/~ericwan/DOG/hops.html.

Types of dogs that have been impacted:

• Greyhound
• Labrador Retriever
• Golden Retriever

Other breeds are likely susceptible to hops toxicity.

The best way to prevent against a dog eating hops is not to compost the spent hops or trub. Put the spent hops and trub in the trash or down the garbage disposal. Another approach is to setup a composting box so the dog can’t get into it.

When it comes to growing hops, if you want to be extra careful, plant them in an area the dog is not allowed in. If your dog is a digger or chewer pay extra attention to where the vines are planted. Also be careful during harvest when the cones are being collected and potentially dropped on the ground. A relative of mine has a dog and grows two hop vines in the back yard. This particular dog has an addiction to playing fetch and has never shown an interest in the vines or the hops.

Posted in Hops Growing | 16 Comments »

All Grain American Pale Ale Recipe

Given what I had in my brewing inventory I decided to brew an American Pale Ale along the lines of a Deschutes Mirror Pond clone. Deschutes is said to use British yeast for their American beers, so I stuck with that and tried a variety that was new to me. This beer will be on the lighter side of pale ales (should live up to its name). I expect a refreshing citrusy finish that is mellowed by the body provided by the munich malt. It should be the perfect brew to enjoy end of spring or early summer.

This is for a 5 gallon batch. Recipe assumes 75% brewhouse efficiency.

GRAINS:
6 lb US 2-row Pale
2.5 lb German Munich 10L
1/4 lb Carpils
Flaked wheat can be added (I did 1/2 lb).

HOPS:
Cascade – 0.5 oz @ 60 min
Centennial – 0.5 oz @ 60 min
Cascade – 0.5 oz @ 10 min
Centennial – 0.5 oz @ 10 min

YEAST:
Wyeast British II 1335
Attenuation Low 73%
Attenuation High 76%
Optimum Temp 63-75
Flocculation High

STATS:
Original Gravity 1.047
Final Gravity 1.010
SRM 5
IBU 30-35
ABV 5
Style 10A (BJCP)

NOTES:
Standard all grain brewing – mash at 150F for 1 hour.
60 minute boil.
Ferment for 3-4 weeks at 63-75F.

I have a blond ale planned for my next batch and then a Red Chair NWPA clone.

Posted in Recipes | 7 Comments »

I love my Keezer

Home brewers who keg their beer have a keezer or kegerator to keep it cold.

Kegerator = keg + refrigerator
Keezer = kegerator + freezer
Keezer = the place where my beer is kept cold and on tap

I prefer the Keezers, not to be confused with Geezers…

A kegerator or keezer can also double as a way to lager. I have used a standard fridge (kegerator) in the past. In the image above, the bucket on the right is a German lager bubbling away. In my opinion, the chest freezer setup (keezer) is much much better than a top/bottom fridge (kegerator). The keezer was cheaper to get setup, it holds more, and it is quieter. I think it also draws less power than a fridge.

Most setups will require a temperature controller. Freezers are designed to go below 32F, so to avoid freezing the beer, the temperature controller cuts power to the compressor when the desired temperature is hit. I keep mine around 40F, but raise it to 50F when doing my primary fermentation for lagers. You can just barely see in the bottom left corner where the senor probe is duct taped to the inside of the freezer.

The unit I went with is the Frigidaire 7.2 Cubic Ft. Chest Freezer from Lowe’s, Model #FFC0723GB. I paid $228 with free delivery! The top/bottom fridge I bought was $499.

Home Brew Talk has an awesome thread about the options here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/sizing-your-chest-freezer-corny-kegs-75449/

You can choose between getting one that holds anywhere from 2-10 corny kegs!

The only down side I have found is it is a little harder to lift full buckets, carboys, and corny kegs into the unit.

The inside of chest freezers have a ‘hump’ where the motor is. Corny kegs are too tall to sit on top the hump because the lid would not close. The way around this is to build a collar extension that raises the height of the lid. Most people put their taps through the collar.

In the image above there is a rag to catch drips from the picnic tap. I have read that keezers can get gross inside if not taken care of. Once I spilled a bit of beer on some bottles and did not take care of it. A few weeks later mold started growing. It wasn’t too bad, but I’m glad I caught it early. To avoid any future mess I make sure any beer that goes astray is wiped up immediately. Sometimes the walls of the keezer have moisture on them so I wipe them off occasionally.

Posted in Equipment, Kegging and CO2, Lagering | 4 Comments »

Second Year Hops are Sprouting

Compared to this time last year, the hops are huge! They are now second generation and should yield a lot more cones this fall. These hops have been in the ground for 12 months. They sprouted early because of the warmer winter in Oregon. I noticed the sprouts forming last week. Since hops are a perennial, they continue to regenerate every year with a new vine shoot starting in the spring. These are of course the female plant, designed for collecting the cones for use in brewing.

In a few weeks I will setup the lines the vines will grow on, hanging down from the eve of the house. I will also prune back the crowns to just the two strongest shoots. That way the plant puts all its growing energy into the remaining vines, instead of spread out across a dozen shoots. This practice results in a higher yield of hops cones.

Next year, I will need to thin out the root system around the plants so that they do not take over my entire property.

The nugget variety is a deep purple color and already has a shoot 1 foot long (not pictured).

For a size comparison, take a look at last year’s sprouts:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/04/19/baby-hops-sprout-pictures/

Posted in Hops Growing | No Comments »

Hops Types Pellet Plug Leaf

Hops come in three different packages, pellet, plug and leaf (whole/loose leaf). The difference between pellet, plug and whole leaf hops is much more than cosmetic. Aside from looking different, these variations will affect hop utilization (to a degree), freshness, and ease of storage/use. The best hop type for you will be based on your brewing style, storage room and equipment.

Pellet Hops:

Pellet hops are hop cones which have been pulverized and then squeezed into compact little pellets. These hops are highly processed which generally leads to a slightly higher cost per ounce. Listed below are some facts about hop pellets:

• They are no less “fresh” than whole/loose leaf hops
• They are the easiest of the three to store as they are very compact and require less room
• The fact that they are pulverized leads to approximately 10% better utilization over leaf hops
• They are very effective as “dry hops” as well since the processing pulverizes the lupulin glands
• They stay fresh longer than plug or leaf hops due to being compacted into pellets, reducing surface area, and reducing oxidation of the alpha acids
• They settle out in the kettle and in the fermenter easily along with trub and yeast
• Soak up less wort than plug or leaf hops
• Cannot be strained from the wort easily, will plug strainer

Plug Hops:

Plug hops are nearly a hybrid of pellet and whole leaf hops, being whole leaf hops that are simply compressed into 2 oz. (typically) plugs, about the size of a wine cork. With this process you get leaf hops (not pulverized), but in a more compact state than if you simply buy loose leaf hops. Here are a few facts about plug hops:

• They are no less “fresh” than leaf hops
• They are much easier to store than leaf hops
• They have only slightly higher utilization than leaf hops
• They do not settle out in the kettle and fermenter nicely like pellet hops do
• You will need a way to filter out these hop leaves when transferring liquids so that they do not plug tubing, siphons and dip tubes
• They will retain freshness longer than loose leaf hops due to being compressed, thus leading to less surface area and oxidation.
• Will soak up noticeably more wort than pellet hops
• Can be strained from the wort easily
• Design to fit through the neck of a carboy

Whole Leaf Hops:
Leaf hops are just that… the whole leaf, nothing else. These hops are also called loose leaf hops, as they are simply dry hop cones, not pulverized and not compressed in any way. Typically, these are cheaper to purchase than pellet or plug hops as there is less processing involved, but this is not always the case. Here are some facts about loose leaf hops:

• They are no more “fresh“ than pellet or plug hops
• They require much more space to store (3-4x as much)
• They do not settle out in the kettle and fermenter nicely like pellet hops do
• You will need a way to filter out these hop leaves when transferring liquids so that they do not plug tubing, siphons, chillers and dip tubes
• Due to their loose structure and greater surface area, these hops are more susceptible to oxidation and degradation than plug hops, and much more so than pellet hops.
• Will soak up noticeably more wort than pellet hops
• Can be strained from the wort easily

Finally, to preserve the characteristics (alpha acids) of any hops, you should vacuum seal them in either a vacuum sealed plastic bag, or in vacuum sealed Mason jars. Once sealed, the hops should be frozen, or at the very least, stored cold. Doing so will mitigate the dangers of oxidizing the hops and keep them fresh much longer. If you do have the capability to store hops vacuum sealed and frozen, you also open up the possibility of buying them in bulk and saving 50%-75% over buying them at most local home brew stores.

Posted in Ingredients | 2 Comments »

The Four Brewing Seasons (2 of 4)

Each season has at least one beer style that it is known for, if not several. This season an Oktoberfest / Marzen recipe has been selected. This is part TWO of a four part (season) series about these seasonal brews. Spring is quickly approaching, although much of the country is still in the grips of a deep freeze, it is time to start thinking about warmer days, melting ice and snow and brewing outdoors again!

When I think Spring, I think about March… in like a lion and out like a lamb as my grandmother used to say. When I think of March, I think of Oktoberfest! What…? Maybe some explanation is necessary for some of you. The beers served at the traditional German Oktoberfest in the month of October are actually brewed in the month of March, which is whey they are often called Marzens, or Marzenbier which means March Beer, in German.

Prior to modern refrigeration equipment, cold storage of beer consisted of underground caves and stone cellars. Often these storage areas were near ponds or bodies of water so that ice could be cut during the winter months and used for cooling during the summer months. Marzens, or Oktoberfest lagers, were brewed in the month of March and then stored through the spring and summer months until the Autumn festival.

Marzens are known for their full body, toasty flavor and mild hopping. Deep copper in color with an inviting,rich malt flavor and aroma, this beer is an excellent way to celebrate Autumn. Brewing this beer in preparation for Oktoberfest is an excellent way to welcome Spring!

Oktoberfest/Marzen (5 gallons)
This lager is malty, toasty, smooth, lightly hopped and perfect for those late Autumn gatherings around the fire pit. Brew it now so that it is ready for Oktoberfest at your home this Autumn!

MALT BILL – All Grain:
Vienna Malt 8.00 pounds
Munich Malt 1.00 pounds
Crystal 60L 1.00 pounds

Mash at 152F for 60 minutes

MALT BILL – Extract:
Light dry malt extract 5.75 pounds
Steep:
Vienna Malt 1.00 pounds
Munich Malt 0.50 pounds
Crystal 60L 0.50 pounds

HOP BILL:
Tettnang 1.25 ounce 90 mintues 3.3 IBUs
Tettnang .25 ounce 30 minutes 3.3 IBUs

YEAST:
White Labs 820 Oktoberfest/Marzen
Since this is a lager a starter is needed, click here on information about making a yeast starter.

FERMENTATION:
Primary Ferment at 55F for 3 weeks
Lager from April-October, 4-6 weeks minimum at 35-40F

RECIPE STATISTICS:
OG: 1.053
FG: 1.016
IBU: 20.9
SRM: 11.6
ABV: 4.8

Brew NOW, enjoy at your Oktoberfest celebration!

Posted in Recipes | 2 Comments »