Brewer's Friend Home Brewing Software

Brew Shed Is Framed and Sided

With the brew shed foundation poured and cured the project continued forward. It takes about a month for concrete to cure. It also takes about a month for spring to kick off in Oregon.

Reminder to our readers: You know you are seriously addicted to home brewing when you start making plans for a brew shed!

Three of us bolted down a pressure treated sill plate, then put up all four walls in one afternoon. The framing of the roof and sheathing took another two afternoons. One more solid day should finish off the roof and trim. Then it will need a couple coats of primer and paint. After that I will turn my attention to the electrical panel.

Details about the shed:

• Walls are just under 8 feet tall. This way the siding overlaps the concrete a little.
• I went with 5/8” T111 siding, which works both as sheathing (like OSB), and siding (like lap boards). I found this was the best bang for the buck in terms of appearance and price.
• The 12′ x 12′ size feels roomy enough for a brewery without hogging the back yard.
• The height at the peak is 11′ 6”.
• Total cost was about $2200 for all the materials, delivered.

(Roof framing completed).

Recommendations:

• Use a qualified contractor who has experience building houses. There are a lot of little details that go into framing I had no idea about. You want your brew shed built solid with the help of a professional.
• Check with local city / county building codes before getting started.
• Get the materials delivered. A local place only charged me $80 to have everything delivered at once.
• Charge it and get credit card mileage points / rewards.
• Keep natural lighting in mind. This shed has a skylight and two windows.
• Design in a big door that is easy to get items like kettles, keezers, and drunk friends in and out.
• Keep your dimensions in units that work well with basic lumber sizes. Multiples of four are good.
• Consider going with 2×6 construction for added insulation value. It my case it wasn’t worth going past 2×4 walls, but it might be in yours.
• Add in a loft. Mine has one in the back at seven feet high. The brewing equipment will fit nicely under there.

(Framed and sheathed, ready for shingles).

(Lots of natural light are a good thing).

More articles to come on the subject of brew sheds.

Posted in Fun | 10 Comments »

My New Tool – The Carboy Cleaner

Carboy Cleaner LLC has made life better by building a better carboy brush. Unlike a better mouse trap (which nobody cares about), the Carboy Cleaner really is a time saver and does a better job than my old ‘L’ shaped brush. Thank you capitalism.

You know, I didn’t have a good relationship with old ‘L’ anyway. ‘L’ was always spraying me in the face. I was on my second ‘L’, as the first one rusted. Now I can say goodbye and good riddance to ‘L’.

The Carboy Cleaner is a metal rod attached to two padded brushes at one end. It has a rubber gromet that fits in the neck of a carboy. Once you see how it works, it is a no brainer. You need a cordless drill to make it work. If you don’t own a cordless drill, buy the Carboy Cleaner first, then you have an excuse to buy a cordless drill. The product website has a great video demonstration. Ryan is an enthusastic presenter. https://www.carboycleaner.com/

The Carboy Cleaner can also be used to sanitize a carboy. Just soak the brushes in sanitizer solution, and add some of the sanitizer solution to the carboy, then go for it with the drill for minute or so.

Practicallity aside, it’s a great excuse to get out a power tool and fire it full throttle! I hooked up my 18V cordless drill and let it rip. Here’s how it went:

Start it off in the bottom slowly.

Spin it up to 100%.

Raise and lower the brush to cover the entire inside.

Nice and sudsy.

Brewer’sFriend received a complimentary Carboy Cleaner.

Posted in Equipment | 9 Comments »

Recipe – Golden NW Extra Special Bitter

This a wonderful tasting British ale that uses Zeus bittering hops. More of a NW + British hybrid really. This Golden NW ESB has a nice balanced malt to hop ratio. A bread like biscuit flavor rolls into medium bitterness over the tongue. It finishes smooth and has drinkability – in that you will want to take another sip of this brew right away. Extra Special Bitter is traditionally served in British pubs, and would cost extra compared to the house ale.

Target Volume: 5 gallons

Grains:
5.25 lb Pale 2-Row
4 lb ESB Malt
0.5 lb Mild Ale Malt
(at 75% efficiency)

Extract brewers:
Steep 1 lb ESB Malt, 0.25 lb Mild Ale Malt
Use 5.75 Light Dry Malt Extract, or 7 lb Light Liquid Extract

Hops:
0.75 oz Zeus, 60 min
0.75 oz Goldings, 20 min
0.75 oz Goldings, 10 min

(Extract brewers may want to use 1 oz Zeus to get correct IBU level.)

Yeast:
Wyeast 1098 British Ale Yeast (aka White Labs WLP007 Dry English Ale Yeast)

Water Chemistry:
Calcium 116
Sodium 89
Sulfates 214
Carbonates (HCO3) 226
Chloride 46
(all numbers in ppm)

My tap water is practically mineral free. I added approximately 1 tsp CaCl, 3 tsp Gypsum, and 2.5 tsp Baking Soda to get these concentrations.

Procedure:
Mashed at 158F for 60 minutes, standard batch sparge. Fermented for 10 days between 62F-68F, racked and let sit for 12 days. Bottled and primed with 3.5oz dextrose.

Batch Stats:
OG: 1.051
FG: 1.011
IBU: 60
ABV: 5.35%

(Freshly filled and capped batch of ESB).

(Nice foamy head on this ESB).

Posted in Recipes | 5 Comments »

Brew Shed Slab Is Poured

The brew shed has gone from the drawing board to reality. The slab has been poured! Late into the evenings last winter I had been making plans for this project. Now it is underway! Next step is to frame and roof it. That will be happening soon and I will post pictures.

May I remind our readers: You know you are seriously addicted to home brewing when you start making plans for a brew shed!

Details about the slab:

• 12′ x 12′
• Mono pour
• 4” thick
• 6” wide footings around the edge 8” deep, reinforced with rebar
• Vapor barrier
• Wire mesh
• J-bolts (achor bolts), three per side, which the treated sill plate will bolt to.
• Made space for door jamb
• 4 hops plants already added out front.
• Total cost: $1200.

You can get the price down on the slab if you do it yourself. The bill from the concrete ready mix truck was under $300. Be prepared to dig and level the area first. Then add a base of gravel and tamp. Then install the forms, haul in more gravel, tamp, etc… It adds up to many hours of hard labor. Not being an expert at this, or knowing anybody who was willing to help, writing a check was the simplest solution. I plan to use my wood working skills and help out with the framing in the next phase.

Ideas for an over the top brew shed foundation:

• Go with stamped and dyed concrete pattern. It is amazing what can be done with decorative concrete. This was more than double the price. Someday I might cover my basic gray floor in tile, but I don’t have immediate plans.
• Acid stain over the concrete – this looks good too, and is more affordable than a stamped pattern.
• Polished finish, again for looks more than anything. My concrete guy said it would cost about $300, or I could rent the machine.
• Add in your plumbing pipes ahead of time – floor drain, sewer line, supply line. I opted out of these for cost reasons.
• Add insulation underneath the slab. This can really help if you plan to make it climate controlled.
• Design the layout of the building with hops in mind. Plan to cover the shed in hops! I have already planted 4 new rhizomes on the southern exposure.

Alternative Designs:

I considered doing posts supporting a wooden floor. Ultimately a wooden floor is just about as much work as a slab. The slab will perform better and last longer. With a suspended floor animals can tear up insulation from underneath. Oregon is really wet too, and I figured the concrete would hold up better.

Stay tuned for more from Brewer’s Friend!

Posted in Fun | 1 Comment »

Racking Tutorial with a Built In Spigot

Racking beer is made easy if your primary fermenter has a spigot. Note that this piece of equipment is essentially a bottling bucket with a good lid. They are cheap and easy to use with only a few drawbacks.

Racking beer is not required, but it can add clarity in the final beer. I only rack my ales about a third of the time. If you are going to dry hop, doing a very strong beer, or fermenting for more than 3-4 weeks, then racking is a good idea. There is an exception, I always rack my lagers before cooling them down to 33F for 4-6 weeks.

Here is how I racked my latest batch of Oktoberfest:

1) At least one day before, lift the primary fermenter up to a table. This will give the yeast time to settle back down.

2) Sanitize secondary fermentor, hose, cork and airlock. I like StarSan for this purpose. Have your hydrometer and a sampling cup on hand.

3) Get the hose hooked up and dropped into the secondary. Turn on the hose. Minimize splashing if possible. Depending on how low the spigot is some yeast will come through, but not a lot.

4) About half way through I stop the hose, and take a sample for gravity and taste. I make sure my hands are VERY clean for this step.

5) Continue draining. Tip the bucket at the end. Make sure to fill it to the top.

6) Record your hydrometer value and note the flavors.

Primary fermentation in a bucket is easy for the following reasons:

• Easy to sanitize the bucket. Those 90-degree brushes for cleaning carboys can be a pain to use.
• Easy to clean the bucket after fermentation.
• When fitted with a spigot, draining is a breeze. No siphon is needed. There is less equipment to sanitize and clean up.
• Stopping the flow to take a sample is easy.

Knocks against using a plastic buckets as a fermenters:

• Odors can remain behind in plastic, especially strong dark beers.
• There is concern for oxygen penetration.
• The seal can fail around the spigot. Never had this happen, but it would be a major mess. I fitted mine with a double set of washers on the inside and outside. This did involve a trip to the hardware store, and I bought extra. I keep a habit of only turning the spigot clockwise, so I don’t accidentally loosen the thread.

The real solution to this issue is to buy a stainless steel canonical fermentor. This is how commercial breweries do it. Compared to a carboy or plastic bucket they are fifteen times the price! Figure spending at least $500 on one.

Notice there was no head space in the secondary. That was 100% on purpose to avoid oxidation. Check out information in this article about why topping of the secondary is important.

Update 11/12/2011: Check out the article on Infected Batches to see why you might want to tear down your bottling bucket now and then, since the spigot can get pretty gross without you knowing it.

Posted in Brewing, Equipment | 1 Comment »

Beat Oxidation Problems by Topping Off

From my recent experience making wine, I was reminded of the importance of completely filling up the secondary fermenter to the top. A sure way to get a spoiled batch of wine is to leave a lot of head space in the carboy after racking.

In beer oxidation can lead to wet card board flavors, low shelf life, and other nasty defects. Leaving head space in the secondary is a sure way to trigger oxidation problems. Wine books say to top off the secondary with a similar style of wine. With beer that is not as easy because of the wide variation between beers even in the same style. The beer could be diluted with water but that doesn’t feel right to me if it is more than 1-2% of the total volume.

The best solution is to take the size of the secondary fermenter and add half a gallon to determine your batch size. For example if I will rack into a 5 gallon carboy, I would target 5.25 – 5.5 gallons for my batch size. Figure one to two quarts will be left behind in yeast and trub. Five gallons is a good size, easy to move around, and fits into a corny keg. I never use a bucket as a secondary fermenter because of the head space issue. Only carboys fitted with a stopper offer an easy way fill to the very top and prevent oxidation.

(5 gallon batch of lager, primary fermentation complete.)

(5 gallon batch of lager racked into the secondary.)

How do you get exactly the amount of wort you want?

For extract brewers, this will be easy because you are topping off with water. Just adjust your recipe for the target OG and water volume and top off to that level. Your fermentation vessel should have water volume marks established on it ahead of time (either by you, or labeled by the manufacturer).

For all grain brewers it is not as easy because of mashing, the full wort boil, and no topping off allowed. It takes some practice in knowing your equipment. I have been referring back to this article lately to dial in my water volume.

Note this head space issue only applies to secondary fermentation (if you are racking). Oxygen is good for wort that is going into the primary. Fermentation will drive oxygen out of the airlock. Oxygen is only harmful after the wort has fermented (green beer and afterwards). You need head space in the primary because the foamy krausen head will rise as fermentation happens (both for ales and lagers).

I also do bigger batches, using my 8 gallon plastic primary and then racking form there to glass. Be careful on that one. I recently found out I have a 7 gallon carboy, thinking it was a 6.5, and wound up with head space I was not counting on! In that case, I slowly vented the head space with CO2 for about a minute. A full seven gallon carboy is pretty heavy too. Ultimately doing an 11 gallon batch and splitting it in half is the best way to make a large amount of home brew in one go.

Posted in Brewing | 4 Comments »

Time to order Hops Rhizomes 2011

It is time to order hops rhizomes for spring planting. The sooner you plant hops rhizomes, the sooner you can start growing hops vines and enjoying home grown hops in your beer. This year I will plant a few new varieties around the site where my brew shed is going up.

Hops Rhizomes Ready to be Planted

Hops are propagated by a root cutting called a rhizome (as opposed to seeds or starters). The rhizome is planted in the ground and grows to become a complete hops plant. The new plant is essentially a clone of the mother plant. All rhizomes come from female plants which produce hops cones for brewing. Male hops plants have seeds in their cones, and are not the best for brewing with. It takes at least two years to get to full cone production. In the first year there will not be much of a harvest, maybe a half ounce of dried cones at best (in my experience). In the second year, get a bucket when picking the cones! The best time to plant a rhizome is right now, in late winter / early spring.

If you are going to buy rhizomes this year, make sure to check out:

The Thyme Garden

I ordered from The Thyme Garden before and have had good experiences. Here is a link directly to their hops page. They are an organic nursery and herb farm in the coastal range mountains of Oregon. They can’t ship to Washington because of a quarantine, but they do ship everywhere else in the US except Hawaii. Their prices are very reasonable, especially when you consider you are getting high quality organic hops.

I would plan the hops yard and dig the holes for the rhizomes the first nice day after you place your order. That way when the rhizomes arrive you can get them in the ground quickly, rain or shine. The surest way of killing the rhizome is to leave it in the fridge for weeks.

These Brewer’s Friend articles should be of interest if you have never grown hops before:

Planning Your Hops Yard for Home Brewing

How To Plant Hops for Home Brewing

I highly recommend growing hops. It is really fun and satisfying all around. Everybody loves to talk about hops even non-drinkers. The vines look great crawling up the house, shed, or custom designed trellis. Hops vines on the house, yeah, that is how life should be. Not to mention, beer made with your own hops is something to be proud of. Enjoy!

Brewer’s Friend received hops rhizomes from The Thyme Garden for review as part of this article and link exchange.

Posted in Hops Growing | 2 Comments »

Good news for Oregon Home Brewers

The Oregon Senate has passed legislation to re-legalize aspects of home brewing that were outlawed last year. The bill, SB 444, invalidates last June’s article. At that time home brew clubs and beer competitions were considered illegal. The law was so narrowly reinterpreted that taking home brewed beer out of the house was seen as a problem.  It was stupid, and thankfully our democratic system has shown itself able to do some good.  The spirit of the laws surrounding alcohol regulation and taxation draw the line when money and commercial production come into play.  Unfortunately home brew got sucked into this temporarily but now that is fixed.

The credit for saving us goes to Sen. Floyd Prozanski! Oregon is fortunate that Sen. Prozanksi is a long time member of the Oregon Senate AND a long time home brewer.  I am impressed by the fact that not a single member of the Oregon Senate voted ‘No’ on the bill. All 30 members voted yes.  It was bi-partisan whoo hoo!

What the bill does in Oregon:

• Beer and wine competitions are legalized.
• Home brew clubs may operate again as they used to.  Members may bring the home brew to share and taste.
• Transportation of home brew is legal, including sweet wort.  You can brew at your friend’s house and ferment at your house.
• Compensation in the form of home brew contest prize money is legal.
• Club dues are legal provided the amount of the dues is NOT tied to the amount of home brew you get to drink.  Dues must be separate from how much beer you get during a meeting.
• Trading home brew is legal.
• Trading home brew ingredients is legal.
• Donating home brew to a not for profit qualifies for a tax deduction!?
• Restates statue limiting amounts of home brew per household.  If you are over 21 you can brew 100 gallons.  If your spouse or roommate is also over 21, you can brew up to 200 gallons between the both of you.
• Holders of a brewery public house license may allow customers to brew on site, provided alcohol by volume does not exceed 14% in the brew.  The customer made brew may not be consumed or sold in the pub.

It still needs to pass in the House, but it is widely expected to sail through without a problem. The bill has a rider that makes it go into effect when the Governor signs it. To track the progress of the bill:
https://gov.oregonlive.com/bill/2011/SB444/

For the full content of SB 444:
https://www.leg.state.or.us/11reg/measures/sb0400.dir/sb0444.intro.html

Posted in Announcements | 2 Comments »

Brewers Cannot Spell – Fermentor or Fermenter?

How do you spell fermenter, fermentor? According to my text editor both are spelled wrong! It is the big tub we put the wort in, add the yeast to, and watch bubble. It can also be called a fermentation vessel, carboy, or simply the primary.

According to google, fermentor gives 266,000 results, fermenter gives 725,000 results. Hmmm….

In product search, fermentor gives 689 results, fermenter gives 45,300 results. According to the market, the correct spelling must be with an ‘e’, fermenter.

It turns out yeast are also a fermenter, because of the ‘er’, in other words they do the fermentation.

This is giving me a headache. I’m ready for a beer. Here’s how my latest pale ale turned out:

Ahh that’s nice.

Posted in Fun | 4 Comments »

Hot Liquor Tank for All Grain Brewing

Advanced all grain brewers use a Hot Liquor Tank to heat their strike and sparge water. The term Hot Liquor Tank (HLT) is a misnomer that comes from the commercial brewing world. The HLT never holds anything that has alcohol in it or sweet wort. A better name would be a hot water tank, or hot water pot. The HLT has a simple job. It is the container where the brewing water is heated to mash temperature. The HLT is also where brewing salts are added to the source water.

In a gravity fed system, the HLT is at the highest level, the mash tun is at mid level, and the boil kettle is at the lowest level. Each level has a ball valve to allow draining to the next level with ease. Advanced setups involving a pump, single tier, or HERMS will have a modified version of an HLT.

1) Brewing water is heated in Hot Liquor Tank (HLT)
2) Mashing happens in Mash Lauter Tun (MLT)
3) Wort is drained into Boil Kettle (BK)

An HLT is a luxury for all grain brewers. Up until now, I was using a combination of a 20qt extract kettle and a 4 qt pot to heat my brewing water. This was based on a two-tier gravity system where the mash tun drained to my boil kettle. It works, but lifting 18qt of hot water is dicey. Now that I am going for a 3-tier gravity system in my brew shed I need the HLT.

Extract brewers do not have to worry about an HLT, since there is no mashing involved. Extract brewers should focus on building a mash tun first (bulkhead, mainfold ).

A complete HLT has the following:

• Ball Valve: for easily draining the brewing water to the mash lauter tun.
• Thermometer: used to tell how hot the water is that will be drained into the mash lauter tun. Get one that can be calibrated with a set screw.
• Sight Gauge: tells how much water is in the HLT
• Dip tube: allows you to drain to the bottom (see dip tube article).
• Capacity: Anything bigger than your brew kettle is wasted. I went with the same size for looks. Depending on the strategy for mashing, going with a smaller HLT would be fine.

The HLT I selected is from MoreBeer

I wanted an all inclusive package that would be hassle free. I also wanted to match my existing brew kettle which is also from MoreBeer. I have been very happy with both! Morebeer custom welds the stainless steel ball valve, fits the sight gauge and thermometer before shipping. It took about 10 days for the HLT to arrive. I had to add my own dip tube, just like with my kettle. Manufacturers don’t seem to get the utility of a built in dip tube on such a heavy pot.

Other things to note:

• When draining to your mash tun, make sure to use hosing rated for foods that can handle temperatures up to boiling.
• Accurate water volume is critical for all grain brewing. Make sure to account for dead space in the HLT when marking off the water volume ticks. The sight gauge doesn’t come with marks on it. See this page for information about total water calculations.
• The thermometer must be calibrated! Thankfully, MoreBeer HLT comes with a thermometer that can be adjusted. A poorly calibrated thermometer can lead to reduced brew house efficiency and differences in flavor and body if mash temperatures are wrong.

Morebeer.com gave BrewersFriend.com a $50 discount for writing this article.

Posted in Equipment | 10 Comments »