Long Way To The Top
|
Scottish Export
|
5 Gallons |
1.059 |
1.015 |
5.81 |
22.65 |
15.98 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 6 Gallons |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.049 |
Efficiency: 70 |
Mash Thickness: 2 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 11/3/2024 2:33 PM |
Notes: |
|
The Imperialist
|
Imperial Stout
|
6.5 Gallons |
1.116 |
1.029 |
11.43 |
61.07 |
38.66 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 6.6 Gallons |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.114 |
Efficiency: 80 |
Mash Thickness: 1.8 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 6/1/2025 12:50 AM |
Notes: |
|
Plum Porter
|
English Porter
|
23 Litres |
1.058 |
1.011 |
6.19 |
56.88 |
50 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 28 Litres |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.048 |
Efficiency: 70 |
Mash Thickness: 3.65 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: sucrose |
Priming Amount: 123.1 g |
Creation
Date: 3/17/2025 10:36 PM |
Notes: Added tinned plums (fruit and syrup) at day three when the airlock stopped bubbling.
SG remained high at 1.022 after ten days so bottled with these high residual sugars.
Using an estimated OG of 1.058 (I forgot to do a measurement at pitching!) and a FG of 1.022 gives an ABV of 4.7%. (OG-FGx131.35)
|
|
Valkyrie The Destroyer BBW
|
English Barleywine
|
7 Gallons |
1.081 |
1.019 |
8.07 |
61.81 |
14.18 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 8.04 Gallons |
Boil Time: 90 |
Boil Gravity: 1.071 |
Efficiency: 70 |
Mash Thickness: 1.25 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 3/15/2025 1:23 AM |
Notes: |
|
Basic APA
|
American Pale Ale
|
21 Litres |
1.048 |
1.009 |
5.18 |
30.9 |
7.46 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 27.3 Litres |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.041 |
Efficiency: 75 |
Mash Thickness: 3.2 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: 20 ° C |
Priming Method: co2 |
Priming Amount: 0.89 bar |
Creation
Date: 2/23/2025 11:44 PM |
Notes: A great place to start is a basic pale ale. These numbers are more or less geared for my system by default, so you might need to tweak numbers a bit depending on what system you brew it on.
Something like 90% pale malt and 10% crystal 40L. The pale malt provides the majority of the starches which will convert to sugar during the brew and ultimately result in the lion's share of the alcohol content. Pale malt doesn't provide a huge amount of flavour on its own though, which is why we'll add crystal 40L. The crystal 40L gives the beer a bit of colour, toffee/caramel flavour, a fuller body, a bit of sweetness, and helps with head retention.
For hops, to keep it simple I chose one single variety, Cascade. Cascade is super popular and easy to source. Cascade hops have floral, citrus, and pine flavours and aromas. I've added enough at boiled for 60 minutes tend not to contribute much flavour and 60min of boil to get about 30-32IBU bitterness. Hops that have next to no aroma though, so we'll add another 28g at 5min for flavour and aroma. If you want you can substitute out the Cascade hops for any hop you want, just make sure you tweak the amount of hops you use for the 60 minute addition so that you end up with about ~30IBU. Also, if you like your beer bitter, you could increase your 60 minute addition to 35, 40, or even 45IBU, and like-wise if you really don't like bitterness you can reduce the 60 minute addition to 20-25IBU. 30IBU is a good balance though with enough bitterness to offset the residual sweet maltiness.
My water at home is kind of shit for brewing so I use a reverse osmosis system to get relatively pure water, but beer brewed without any minerals doesn't usually turn out great so I actually add some minerals back into the water to get the mineral profile that I want. That said, for starting out I would just use that spring water that you mentioned and not bother adding any minerals/salts back in; ignore my mineral additions listed under "Other Ingredients". The one exception is citric acid. It wouldn't be a bad idea to add a bit of citric acid or another appropriate acid to the malt to bring the pH down a bit. It isn't strictly necessary in this recipe, but it will only help! you'll need at least about 33L of water for this batch, and it's better to have more than you need on hand, so maybe collect 40L for brew day.
I've chosen Fermentis US-05 yeast for this brew. It's probably the most popular yeast both with homebrewers and with the craft brewing industry. It's super forgiving and doesn't impart a lot of flavour on its own, letting the malt and hops shine through. It's super accessible and not too expensive and can make great beer. There's dozens if not hundreds of yeast strains to choose from.
One other thing to mention is mash profile. The simplest you will get is a "single infusion mash". This is more or less that, though I add one step as my system is able to heat the mash up to 76°C before sparge which is beneficial for the sparge method known as "fly sparging", but I don't think it's necessary for the simpler "batch sparging". The mash temperature chosen is 67°C which is a good balanced temperature to sparge at, resulting in a beer that isn't too sweet or too dry. It can be tweaked higher or lower to suit preferences, but this is a good place to start. Probably 95% of beer styles can be brewed well with a single step mash. Lots of homebrewers like to complicate their mash schedules but the honest truth of it is that it often really just isn't at all necessary.
That's it for the ingredients/design basics! As for the very basics of brewing this recipe see below. Note that the steps with a (*) are steps that will likely change significantly depending on what equipment the beer is brewed in, but I can help you tailor the recipe to your system once you have one:
1. *Mix in grist to 17L of water at ~73°C, mash should be about 67°C. Add citric acid.
2. *After 60min, ramp up mash temp to ~76°C and vorlauf until wort is clear.
3. *Sparge.
4. Bring wort up to a boil. Optionally before boil is reached take a sample and measure the pre-boil specific gravity of the wort. Write it down somewhere. Note that you'll need to cool this sample down to room temperature before taking your measurement.
5. Once boil is reached add the 60min addition of hops and start a timer for 55minutes. Leave the pot uncovered for the duration of the boil otherwise your beer might tasted like canned corn or cooked cabbage. Keep a close eye on the boil for the first 5-10 minutes as wort has a tendency to foam up and boil over, making a sticky mess.
6. While boiling, make use of the time to clean up stuff, toss the spent grain (you can feed it to chickens/livestock, just make SURE there are no hops in the spent grain because they are very toxic to quite a few animals!), and/or get a fermenter sanitized and ready.
7. After 55min, add the 5min addition of hops and set a timer for 5min.
8. Once your second timer has gone off you've been boiling for 60 minutes and it's time to move onto the next step. Turn off the heat, and cool the wort. It is preferrable to cool the wort as quickly as possible, as the less time spent between 65°C and 20°C the less chance of picking up wild spoilage organisms and ruining your hard work. I use an immersion chiller, they're super simple to make out of soft copper tubing. Plate chillers are super high performance and fast but also hard to clean and less beginner friendly. Alternatively, if your fermenter is able to handle hot liquids you could instead opt for the "no chill method". I won't go into details but you can read about it online. It's a bit higher risk but with good sanitation procedures it works just fine.
8.5 A quick note, but the name of the game from this point forward is cleanliness, sanitizing, and minimizing exposure to microbes. Once the beer is below 65°C it is possible for microbes to survive and reproduce in the wort, which will lead to infected and bad beer. Make sure everything that the beer touches is clean and has been properly sanitized, and don't waste time getting the wort into the fermenter and getting the fermenter sealed. There's always some microbial exposure because there's bacteria and mould spores floating through the air and such, but our job is to minimize exposure and give the yeast their best chance to thrive and out-compete all the other microbes.
9. Once the beer is chilled to ~20°C, transfer it out of the kettle and into your fermenter, leaving behind the solids (trub and hop debris) in the kettle. Depending on your equipment you can do a "whirlpool" while chilling to help condense your solids into a cone in the middle to help get as much wort from the pot as possible, but it's not a requirement. If you do this make sure you sanitize your paddle or pump loop by exposing them to boiling wort for a few minutes before the end of the boil. When transferring the wort into the fermenter it is recommended to let the wort splash and froth to help aerate the wort. Yeast need dissolved oxygen at the start of the fermentation to be happy and healthy.
10. With the wort in the fermenter, open up the yeast packet and sprinkle it across the surface. If you didn't aerate the wort during the transfer from kettle to fermenter this is a good time to either shake the fermenter or to beat and froth the wort with a sanitized paddle or spoon. Seal the lid on the fermenter and install an airlock, as the fermenter will off-gas CO2 and needs to be vented in such a way that air and fruit flies can't get in but CO2 can escape, otherwise it would build up pressure and rupture. Take a specific gravity reading of the wort in the fermenter and record it as the Original Gravity, or OG. This will help us calculate the final alcohol content of the finished beer.
11. Leave the fermenter somewhere that's about 20°C or so for about 3 weeks and preferably somewhere dark or with a sheet draped over it to keep the light off, otherwise it might develop a skunky aroma like corona. You can remove the sheet to look at it, but leave the fermenter sealed for the duration of the fermentation. While oxygen is a great thing for the first day of fermentation, every day after that it becomes the enemy as it makes beer taste awful if it gets oxidized, so your best bet is to keep it sealed up.
12. The airlock should start bubbling within 24hrs of pitching the yeast and should slow to a stop after 5-12 days, typically, though that is a very generalized statement.
13. After 2.5-3 weeks, take a gravity reading. Record the value. 2-3 days later measure again and record. If you get the same value as the previous sampling the beer has finished fermenting and is ready to package assuming the beer is cleared up enough for your liking. It could be clear, it may never get completely clear, it might need the help of a clarifying agent like gelatin, or it might clear in the fridge. It doesn't really matter so long as there isn't visible chunks/bits floating in the beer. Chilling the fermenter to 4°C or so can help things settle out but isn't necessary and can cause problems as the cooled fermenter will want to suck in air which isn't good. It's fine to give it an extra week or three in the fermenter if you aren't happy with it's clarity or if you aren't super convinced it's done fermenting, it's better not to rush at these last last few steps.
14. Package your beer, using sanitary practices and doing your best to minimize exposure to oxygen in the process. Don't forget to carbonate! Nobody want's flat beer! I won't go into details regarding the packaging side of things as I don't know what you're looking to do. If you plan to bottle I personally recommend swing-top bottles, but my personal preference and recommendation overall is to keg your beer, but that's really expensive compared to bottling. Still, bottling is the worst part of brewing and where infections are most likely to happen. Kegging is easy and you only have 1 big keg to clean and sanitize vs 50 bottles, and it's super easy to minimize oxygen pickup. Plus having beer on tap is pretty cool!
Hope all of this helps!
|
|
Casgalax Pale
|
American Pale Ale
|
56 Litres |
1.049 |
1.01 |
5.1 |
27.78 |
5.24 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 70 Litres |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.039 |
Efficiency: 85 |
Mash Thickness: 3.65 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 2/21/2025 4:11 AM |
Notes: |
|
PB & C Stout
|
American Stout
|
5.25 Gallons |
1.059 |
1.015 |
5.83 |
33.75 |
30.49 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 6.75 Gallons |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.046 |
Efficiency: 75 |
Mash Thickness: 1.25 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 2/10/2025 10:52 PM |
Notes: |
|
Steam Beer
|
California Common
|
7.5 Gallons |
1.051 |
1.015 |
4.66 |
30.35 |
10.05 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 10.07 Gallons |
Boil Time: 90 |
Boil Gravity: 1.039 |
Efficiency: 70 |
Mash Thickness: 1.75 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: 57 ° F |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 1/29/2025 5:21 PM |
Notes: |
|
Cow Tipper
|
American Brown Ale
|
185 Gallons |
1.058 |
1.01 |
6.24 |
59.03 |
16.89 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 203.15 Gallons |
Boil Time: 90 |
Boil Gravity: 1.053 |
Efficiency: 72 |
Mash Thickness: 1.6 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 11/13/2024 10:28 PM |
Notes: |
|
Butte Porter
|
American Porter
|
700 Litres |
1.055 |
1.014 |
5.36 |
28.84 |
32.87 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 730 Litres |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.052 |
Efficiency: 70 |
Mash Thickness: 3.65 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 11/5/2024 12:14 PM |
Notes: |
|
North Cro Irish Red
|
Irish Red Ale
|
5.25 Gallons |
1.053 |
1.013 |
5.33 |
14.74 |
15.83 °L
|
103 |
1 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 7.63 Gallons |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.033 |
Efficiency: 75 |
Mash Thickness: 3.2 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 1.25 |
Primary
Temp: 70 ° F |
Priming Method: co2 |
Priming Amount: 7.22 psi |
Creation
Date: 3/23/2024 5:55 PM |
Notes: 4 days before...
Made 1 L starter for yeast, will need a second step to have sufficient cells. Add second step, 1L more wort, after 48 hours (Sat morning will work.).
Day Before...
Prepare water; filter/dechlorinate, add 1/2 Campden tablet. total 8.4 gallons of filtered Carencro water in kettle. Add all minerals and acid now. Check pH.
Initial pH of brewing water: ________
Note: Measuring pH here is just for the record. The important thing is the benchmark pH taken 20 minutes after the mash is underway,
______________________________________________________________________
Brew Day...
MASH-IN
Equipment pump is turned off; all water is in kettle and not yet in hoses.
Heat mash water to 3 degrees hotter than desired strike temperature. Remember, the pump is NOT on at this time!
Initial water temp: 154 deg F
Mash temp stabilizes at: 151 deg F
TURN OFF HEAT! Make sure the heat is turned off!
Quickly add all crushed grains to 154 deg F water, and stir rapidly. When temp is stabilized at 151 deg F, put lid on kettle and hold for 5 MINUTES. THEN, Open system, START PUMP, to allow water to flow AT A SLOW RATE through hoses for an additional 5 minutes
______________________________________________________________________
Saccharification Rest (60 min)
Saccharification rest begins now. Water is now flowing and recirculation needs to be set at about 0.5 gal/min flow rate. Monitor flow rate so it stays about this level.
Mash pH is taken after 10 minutes, after this rest begins, as mash was begun at mash-in, which took place for 10 minutes.
Mash pH after mash-in (10 min): ________
If needed, adjust pH to 5.4.
Acid added? YES or NO. If yes, how much ___________
_____________________________________________________
For the record...
Near the end of the 60 min (about 50 min), take pH reading.
pH reading near end of mash: ______________
Adjusted pH (if necessary): ____________
____________________________________________________________________
Vorlauf/Mash-Out
With recirculation and heat still going, raise temp of recirculating mash to 168 deg F.
ADD DARK GRAINS NOW.
Hold temperature here for the 15 minute duration.
For the last 5 minutes of the Vorlauf, slow down the flow rate to a minimal amount, to allow grains to completely settle.
______________________________________________________________________
RAISING THE GRAIN BASKET
Lift grain basket from kettle and securely hang to pot, using the attachments provided. Allow to completely drain, may be 5 minutes or more.
_____________________________________________________________________
BOIL
FIRST, MEASURE PRE-BOIL pH AND PRE-BOIL GRAVITY.
PRE-BOIL pH: ________
PRE-BOIL GRAVITY: ___________
With Brew Commander set for the boil program, it's time to begin.
Add FWH (first wort hops) hop addition at this time.
With power at 100%, begin raising temperature to boiling, monitoring carefully. When boiling commences, lower power to 85%, and lower than that if necessary.
When it appears that there is no danger of boil over, allow boiling to continue for the 60 minute duration. Continue to monitor throughout the boil.
20 minutes to End of Boil
Add Five Star® Super Moss. Make sure to use 1/3 tsp Super Moss.
10 minutes to End of Boil
Second hop addition. ADD SERVOMYCES.
End of Boil
SHUT OFF HEATER.
______________________________________________________________________
WHIRLPOOL
The whirlpool step is like a moving "hop stand."
Terminator Wort Chiller is in place with hoses and 3-way valve, which is set to send wort through chiller and then through whirlpool setup. Do the following steps...
Whirlpool temp needs to be stabilized at 175 deg F. To make this happen, with whirlpool in place and wort flowing through chiller, turn on the hose water until it is coming out the exit end of chilling water hose, then shut off water. Wort temp will continue to drop.
When wort temp is close as possible to 175 deg F, add the whirlpool hops, then continue whirlpool recirculation for 15 minutes.
At end of 15 minutes time duration, turn chilling water back on, use ice chiller if necessary, and set flow rate to slow and steady. Cool down to as cold as you can get it. Now, it's time to transfer wort to fermentor.
_____________________________________________________________________
Oxygenation/Transfer to Fermenter
With all oxygenation set up and transfer hoses in place, via 3-way valve transfer wort to fermenter as it is being oxygenated. When done, close fermenter, then prepare to pitch the yeast.
_____________________________________________________________________
PITCHING THE YEAST
Add the decanted yeast culture to the fermentor. Carefully maintain sanitation.
TILT HYDROMETER
Drop the SANITIZED Tilt Hydrometer into the fermenter. This is how you will monitor fermentation temperature and gravity as beer ferments.
Maintain fermentation temperature of 68 deg F until gravity drops to 1.016, then raise it up to 70 deg F for 2 days.
___________________________________________
CRASH COOL THE FERMENT
Slowly, over several days days, lower temperature of ferment to about 38 deg F.
Hold at 38 deg F or lower, but not lower than 35 deg F.
___________________________________________
TRANSFER TO KEG
Using oxygen-free techniques, transfer beer from fermenter to keg.
___________________________________________
CARBONATE BEER
Using the Blichmann Quick Carb, carbonate to 2.25 vol (medium level carbonation). |
|
PNW Pale Ale
|
Blonde Ale
|
5.5 Gallons |
13.364 |
2.633 |
5.75 |
43.57 |
11.63 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 7 Gallons |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 10.6 |
Efficiency: 65 |
Mash Thickness: N/A |
Sugar
Scale: Plato |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 10/26/2024 12:40 AM |
Notes: |
|
Imperial Milk Stout -15
|
Imperial Stout
|
15.5 Gallons |
1.092 |
1.029 |
8.29 |
19.37 |
39.05 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 17 Gallons |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.084 |
Efficiency: 70 |
Mash Thickness: 2 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 10/18/2024 2:51 PM |
Notes: |
|
Pale Ale American
|
American Pale Ale
|
570 Litres |
1.044 |
1.011 |
4.33 |
6.94 |
3.39 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 576.3 Litres |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.044 |
Efficiency: 81.4 |
Mash Thickness: N/A |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: 20 ° C |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 10/9/2024 7:56 PM |
Notes: |
|
Nut Stuff
|
American Amber Ale
|
270 Gallons |
1.053 |
1.013 |
5.19 |
0 |
5.38 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 280 Gallons |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.051 |
Efficiency: 77 |
Mash Thickness: 1.25 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: co2 |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 9/18/2024 9:38 PM |
Notes: |
|
Awesome Recipe
|
American Stout
|
10 Litres |
1.06 |
1.012 |
6.41 |
0 |
48.52 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 15.7 Litres |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.038 |
Efficiency: 70 |
Mash Thickness: 3 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 8/29/2024 5:32 AM |
Notes: |
|
Calypso 10
|
American Pale Ale
|
42 Litres |
9.654 |
1.897 |
4.1 |
57.78 |
2.47 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 48.5 Litres |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 8.4 |
Efficiency: 75 |
Mash Thickness: 4 |
Sugar
Scale: Plato |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: co2 |
Priming Amount: 1.64 bar |
Creation
Date: 8/18/2024 1:34 PM |
Notes: |
|
Test Run
|
Imperial Stout
|
11 Gallons |
1.084 |
1.02 |
8.4 |
42.93 |
45.13 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 13 Gallons |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.071 |
Efficiency: 75 |
Mash Thickness: 1.25 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 7/16/2024 8:35 PM |
Notes: |
|
Ziip APa
|
American Pale Ale
|
250 Litres |
11.211 |
2.778 |
4.49 |
36.9 |
2.8 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 258.2 Litres |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 10.9 |
Efficiency: 75 |
Mash Thickness: 3.4 |
Sugar
Scale: Plato |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: N/A |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 4/24/2024 8:28 AM |
Notes: |
|
IPA For Local
|
American IPA
|
5 Gallons |
1.075 |
1.017 |
7.54 |
70.9 |
9.07 °L
|
103 |
0 |
|
|
Boil
Size: 7 Gallons |
Boil Time: 60 |
Boil Gravity: 1.053 |
Efficiency: 70 |
Mash Thickness: 1.5 |
Sugar
Scale: Specific Gravity |
Brew
Method: All Grain |
Pitch Rate: 0.35 |
Primary
Temp: 72 ° F |
Priming Method: N/A |
Priming Amount: N/A |
Creation
Date: 3/24/2024 5:02 PM |
Notes: |
|
|
|