something like sam smith's nut brown ale

the recipe for 2.5 gal calls for the 2.5 lbs. of dme. i want to make 2.5 gal. i only want to boil say 1.5 gal and make up the rest of the liquid volume in plain water. sorry if i wasn't clear and more sorry if it's the newbness
http://www.britishbrewer.com/2010/04/recipe-samuel-smiths-nut-brown-ale/
unless i'm mis-reading the recipe it's for 2.5gal. the procedure he links to is for 5 gal and i can reduce that. there's no mention of ingredient quantities in the procedure. http://www.britishbrewer.com/2009/11/getting-started-pt-3-brewing-day/
 
J A said:
You can do this but you have to work it out in the recipe calculator so that your hop additions are right. Either you do a partial volume boil with all the DME in it or you do a partial boil with some of the DME in it and the rest added 10 minutes before flame out and compensate by using 2 separate ingredient listings for the split quantity and check the "late addition" box on the portion you're adding late. Either way you'll adjust hop amounts to be sure you're getting the proper IBUs.
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it took me a while...but after putting numbers into the calculator i now see what you mean....duh....thanks for the heads up.
i'll probably start the brew tuesday. i have a hydrometer on the way too.
 
Post the link to your recipe, if you'd like and we can tell you if you've got it all laid out right. ;)
 
I bet it's excellent, but our OP needs a fairly simple extract recipe.
 
You'll want to change your boil size to reflect the actual amount that you're boiling for 60 minutes. There won't be a big difference, but enough that you'll probably want to up your 15 minute amount to .5 oz. Also, unless you just want to buy 2 different hops, splitting and ounce of either one of those hops between the 60 and 15 minute addition will do extremely well. No need to boil very vigorously since it's extract...just a gentle rolling simmer will do. Even then, some of it will boil off, probably about a half gallon. That's a good thing but just be prepared with enough cold water to top up correctly.
Also, just to increase body a little, I'd add a quarter pound of Carapils to the steep.
With or without those changes, it'll be a good beer for you. Brew on, dude! :cool:
 
thanks! i have an ounce of both the hops (pellet). and i was looking at adding more of them. i like a bitter. i have all the supplies called for on hand now. even the irish moss and nutrient. i may go up a bit on the dme to get the abv up some. unless something comes up i'll brew tomorrow. i found a case of 12 swing top 750 ml. glass bottles for cheap, i should have them soon.
my mr beer project is bottled now and doing well. i did a f/g on it before cold crash and got about 1.012. the sample tasted pretty darn good!
 
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Your enthusiasm will make the first beer taste awesome! :)
There's really nothing like downing the first beer you brew. From there you'll progress and your palate will get more keen. Save some of those first beers, though. It's nice to see how they fare when the age a while and it's nice to revisit after you've got some objectively good brews under your belt. ;)
 
your encouragement and advice are very helpful. thanks once more!
 
i'm going to brew tomorrow. i needed to buy a large boil pot and found an enameled one. i feel i'm good to go now.
am i ok using the whole pack of s-04? mr beer folks said so but i would like y'all's opinion also. that's my last question....well at least until i bottle ;-)
i just have a hard time containing my newbie enthusiasm.
 
cheech226 said:
am i ok using the whole pack of s-04?
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I've used half-packets for 2.5 gallon batches. Works just fine. Better if you weigh it out but even if you eye-ball it, it'll work. I would fold the remainder over and tape it up tightly and put it in the freezer for the next batch.
It'll go like crazy so pitch between 60 and 65 and let it warm up to 68 over a couple of days and then keep it at that until it drops and clears - probably 5-7 days. You can cold-crash if you like for bottling, but I wouldn't bother. That stuff drops hard and packs tight even at room temp.
 
cheech226 said:
i'm going to brew tomorrow. i needed to buy a large boil pot and found an enameled one. i feel i'm good to go now.
am i ok using the whole pack of s-04? mr beer folks said so but i would like y'all's opinion also. that's my last question....well at least until i bottle ;-)
i just have a hard time containing my newbie enthusiasm.
Click to expand...
Keep an eye on that enamel pot - if you ever chip it down to the metal, use it for beans from then on - it'll provide some nice iron supplementation (rust flavoring) in your beer.
 
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Nosybear said:
Keep an eye on that enamel pot - if you ever chip it down to the metal, use it for beans from then on - it'll provide some nice iron supplementation (rust flavoring) in your beer.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info. i'll treat it just like my glassware. with great care and i'll try to use plastic spoons to mix solutions with
 
damn! i'll know where to look when i go up in batch size......$5 shipping tooooooo arrrrg. thanks.....but, damn!
well, i'll be able to use the one i bought for steeping once i get bigger :)
 
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Just be sure you get stainless. PS...that turkey rack can be used to bake a stand-up turkey if your oven is big enough to stand it up in there. Great way to cook a bird. ;)
And use your enameled pot for tamales...that's what they're best for. :)
 
well....i needed a 3 gal pot in the kitchen anyway. right now it's first use will be for boiling. after that prolly a stock pot or tamales ;-)
thanks for that link to academy. i didn't think of them.

i'm about to begin the steeping.

edit: it is done and in the lbk. og 1.051, little high but for first go i'm happy! pitched yeast at 59f. it's gotten a bit warmer here, i have the lbk in an ice chest and have plenty of ziplocs of ice on hand.
 
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If you start that yeast low, you can let it raise to room temp fairly quickly. It does fine at 60 degrees, but it's quite nice at mid-high 60s. Only time you'll run into trouble is pitching higher than about 68 and letting it run up from there very quickly. It needs some warm temp to finish and not get stuck, so don't keep it too cool and don't let the temp fluctuate and drop until it's definitely at FG.
 
i guess i lied about asking my last question....
my plan is to go 3 weeks before taking a sample for fg as i don't want to waste beer. and i don't want to open the keg to return samples. as long as i keep the temp where it should be (and i will) while fermenting, is there any reason to check the fg earlier than 3 weeks?
 
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