Fermentation stop to fast (2nd time 2nd bach)

[Mastoras007]

I would stick with the distilled / RO water. You have no idea of the drinking waters composition. Skip the ph stabilizer. ( i have never had a batch at 6+ pH using RO). I wonder about the calibration of your ph meter. Add the chemicals per the recipe. Don't try to over think it, follow the recipe , have a beer and try to keep the brew near the recomended fermenting temp.

Ok but I'm not sure if I want to use those chemicals, I'm not familiar with this stuff I'm afraid i will do something stupid.

 

[Minbari]

Ok but I'm not sure if I want to use those chemicals, I'm not familiar with this stuff I'm afraid i will do something stupid.

I wouldn't worry about it. I brewed for 5 years on just RO before i started learning about brew salts. Read a couple books and get comfortable with it. It is NOT necessary to be good beer. Its a fine tune

 

[Donoroto]

Chemicals are not "required", but can help.

Like @Zambi wrote: go simple. Very simple. Let's go slow and figure this out.

 

[Mastoras007]

it's posible to have this infections because of high mash ph?
what is the diffrense if i use RO water? and more general question, wich is the factors that effect mash ph?
last batch i had mash thickness 3,1, if i had mash thickness 5 will be other ph?
as i mention before i make a 16 liters final wort, BUT my kettle can't boil this amount of wort, so i'm mashing with low mash thickness because i want to add later water. Is this reason to have higher ph or not?

 

[Zambi]

Simply: no

The wrong mash pH or thickness will not cause an infection as far as I know.
It may cause the beer to become sweeter, or less fermentable, or taste less good.
But it is not the cause of the infection.

It could be secondairy in that the growth conditions for the beer yeast are not optimal and an other organism can grow better than the yeast.

But still, that infection comes from outside.

But where, thats what we need to figure out...

 

[Minbari]

Simply: no

The wrong mash pH or thickness will not cause an infection as far as I know.
It may cause the beer to become sweeter, or less fermentable, or taste less good.
But it is not the cause of the infection.

It could be secondairy in that the growth conditions for the beer yeast are not optimal and an other organism can grow better than the yeast.

But still, that infection comes from outside.

But where, thats what we need to figure out...

Exactly this.

This is why we have suggested a water change. It is the most likely culprit and you have to change something to see if the result changes

 

[Mastoras007]

but is not hapening always, i drink 2 of 7 beers
i will use diffrent water this time for sure, but anyway i'm making some thoughts

 

[Minbari]

but is not hapening always, i drink 2 of 7 beers
i will use diffrent water this time for sure, but anyway i'm making some thoughts

I get that, but if you could get to 7 of 7, that would be better.

 

[Donoroto]

One step at a time.

Water chemistry, mash pH, dry hopping, yeast harvest, fermentation temperature.... These are all things to ignore ( or not worry so much about) for now. It is like putting a turbocharger in a car before you have tires. These infections have to be stopped, only then should you think of other topics.

 

[Craigerrr]

Yes but if i use distiled water i need to add some chemicals in to it right?
i brought also this https://www.alebox.gr/components/adjuncts/52-pH-Stabilizer-50gr-1301
it says that stabilizing the water ph to 5,3 no mater what ph was

I suspect that you may be getting the strong plastic flavor due to poor rinsing after soaking your bucket in bleach.
Soaking your bucket in bleach is not necessary at all.
I would just wash with a soft cloth, rinse well, then sanitize with starsan.

You can buy store water that is jut ground sourced, that will have some mineral content to it.
There is no need to add anything to it.
Water with an ion count similar to this would be fine for instance.

 

[Mastoras007]

I suspect that you may be getting the strong plastic flavor due to poor rinsing after soaking your bucket in bleach.
Soaking your bucket in bleach is not necessary at all.
I would just wash with a soft cloth, rinse well, then sanitize with starsan.

You can buy store water that is jut ground sourced, that will have some mineral content to it.
There is no need to add anything to it.
Water with an ion count similar to this would be fine for instance.
View attachment 29463

I thing is more like egg smell, but not sure... Plastic also not sure i thing is more like egg smell, taste is so bad that i can't taste it at all,
But rinse well, with hot water
there is any posibility to ''expire'' or turn out not good anymore my star san solution?
i made it about 1 month ago and store it in a bucket, after shaking make alot of foam

 

[Minbari]

I thing is more like egg smell, but not sure... Plastic also not sure i thing is more like egg smell, taste is so bad that i can't taste it at all,
But rinse well, with hot water
there is any posibility to ''expire'' or turn out not good anymore my star san solution?
i made it about 1 month ago and store it in a bucket, after shaking make alot of foam

Star san doesn't do that. Its mostly phosphoric acid

 

[Mastoras007]

I talked to the material supply store, I send him some pictures, he asks me some questions.His conclusion is that due to fluctuating temperature during intense fermentation, the phenomenon of autolysis was created,On the 2nd-3rd day when the fermentation was intense, the temperature suddenly dropped and the yeast got a shock, it started eating yeast, resulting in the creation of hydrogen sulphidethe truth is that the fermentation takes place in a place where the temperature fluctuates, I did not use the refrigerator because I have the keg inside.
Its a small storage room outside on the balcony...
it make sense.. I hope this is correct...

 

[Zambi]

It would seriously surprise me....
But lets wait for the others to chime in

 

[Mastoras007]

It would seriously surprise me....
But lets wait for the others to chime in

He confirms that this is not infected but over of flavour.
He tells me to make a test
To take 2 glass of this beer, inside the one of them to put copper, some copper coin for example
Let it sit a little bit and smell both
The copper glass must smell less

 

[Minbari]

It would seriously surprise me....
But lets wait for the others to chime in

Autolosys takes weeks or months. He is wrong.

The hydrogen sulfide is likely.

I agree with the infection too. It doesn't look infected

 

[Minbari]

He confirms that this is not infected but over of flavour.
He tells me to make a test
To take 2 glass of this beer, inside the one of them to put copper, some copper coin for example
Let it sit a little bit and smell both
The copper glass must smell less

Don't drink the one with the copper. He is having you create copper sulfide which is poisonous. But it will prove that is what it is

 

[Mastoras007]

He claims that because of yeast stress during intense fermentation day's (day 2 and 3) because of temperature drop fast, this is something bosible to happen here as i said i ferment without temperature control, even without temperature gauge, so it's bosible night time a drop 4-5 Celsius next day+4-5 night time -4-5 so if this theory is valid it's something can happen here,
I try copper but i think both smell the same..

 

[Bigbre04]

This is the hops bag I use, almost 1 liter. After brewing, it is nearly one-third-full. This is 35 grams of hops.

Trub is a mixture of hops, grain and, after fermentation, yeast. @Zambi uses the 'dirty' yeast from the fermenter more than once. This is perfectly ok. The other stuff that is not yeast is not harmful.

But I think you are meaning trub from the boil. This is also not harmful, but I try to leave most of it in the boil pot, and keep it out of the fermenter. I think my beer is clearer because of that, but I may be just dreaming.

The hot side trub can be somewhat beneficial as it is heavy in nutrients and good stuff, but too much will make your beer cloudy. On my knock outs I pull it down until just before the really big stuff(like grain or the heavily settled cone start to pull in). Im not super worried about the light fluffy stuff(mostly proteins). I mainly try to prevent the big heavy stuff from clogging up my heat exchanger, but that might be a larger scale issue. I am generally concerned about volumes.

 

[Bigbre04]

How many times is a safe number to reuse Same yeast?

commercially we reuse up to 10 generations and frequently split yeast legs to keep it going for "longer". We try not to reuse off of beers that will stress the yeast(IPA, big ABV, Sours, etc.).

I would not reuse the yeast until you are consistently having good repeatable(3-4x) batches. You also need to get your fundementals down. need to have good cleaning, good transfers, good packing, etc. before i would add a big additional variable into the mix.

just my 2cents