Golden Monkey #2 w some mistakes (sugar, hops)

Accidentally doubled hops

Also, thought I had only 5.1 G but nearly filled keg so 5.5G

OG 1.072 (measured and double confirmed)
Fermented down to 1.09
assume 1.87 OG w sugar (calc below) = 10.24%

DME= 46 Gravity pts =9pts per 1lb per G = 9 pts for a 5 G batch
Honey =35 pts per pound per gallon = 7 pts per pound for a 5 G batch
I did 2.2 lb so 14+1.4=15.2 Gravity pts more
1.072+ 15=1.087

Note adding honey did not change #'s here but should have gotten a 1 % boost or so

did and overnight mash with very slow pump

NEXT TIME - turn timer on and have it do mash out without me, I
believe mash out can run longer without issue and it took 45 min to get from 152 to 168.

had about 6.6 or 6.7 G prior to boil, boiled with top on and only got about .25 G in 1st hr
need to boil w top off and likely keep both burners on if winter

Forgot to add sugar to boil thus my OG was not what I was shooting for. Researched it and for this one did honey to fermenter. Don't want to add immediately but after it has started fermenting as infection is minimized at that point, also want to have yeast nice and active to be able to handle extra sugar. Told to add a bit of water to honey and take to around 140 (Rob from Steinbarts), higher destroys something, accidentally did 150 but took it down quick. Add to fermenter and stir a bit with paddle to work it in (sanitize).

Many use corn syrup as yeast can take it easy and its flavor neutral. Can also just use standard sugar, again heat with some later.

From here:
https://www.beercraftr.com/correct-original-gravity/

I’ve got good news for you lad: it’s pretty easy to adjust your OG! Your friend—no, your saviour—is dry malt extract. I always keep a pound or two of light DME extract in the house, just in case I need it. This is what will save your bacon (or your wort, anyway). You’re going to toss a calculated amount into the wort to boost your gravity up to your target range.

Let’s first cover some basic math. Full credit goes to Brad Smith for these formulas.

Calculate the difference between your target OG and what you ended up with. Multiple that number by 1000 to get a points reading. For example, if your target OG is 1.060 but you’re sitting at 1.035, you’d end up with 25 points—(1.060-1.035) x 1000 = 25 points.
Alright, so now you know, you need to raise your gravity by 25 points per gallon. What does that mean? It means you need to add 25 points/gallon of dry malt extract. If you’re brewing one of my recipes, I aim for a final yeild of 1.3 gallons. So we take 25 x 1.3 = 32.5. We need to add 32.5 points to our wort in this example.
DME has a potential of 1.046, which means it contributes 46 points/lb added. So, we just need to take the 32.5 points and divide it by 46 to get 0.71 lbs DME to add to the wort.
WHEN DO YOU ADD THE DME?
There are two distinct opportunities in the brew-day process for you to add the DME. If you want my advice, take Option B.

Option A (near the end of the boil): The formula I’ve outlined above assumes you’re measuring your OG near, or at the end of your boil. I’ve kept the math simple by assuming your post-boil volume is 1 gallon. However, my recipes are designed to have a post-boil volume of 1.3 gallons, so you would need to adjust the math accordingly. But, by designing my recipes to have a bit more wort than needed, it gives you the flexibility to correct your gravity near the end of the boil. Why? Because if you need to add 10 minutes to the boil, to sanitize the DME you just added, you’ll still have enough wort to transfer to the fermentor. Of course, this means you’re extending the boil, which could impact your IBUs. But at this point, I’d rather have the right OG and risk a slightly more bitter beer than planned. If you don’t want to mess with your IBUs, you could take the gravity reading with 15 minutes to go in the boil, tossing in the DME for the final 10.

Preferable: Option B (before the boil): Ideally, you don’t want to wait until the end of the boil to make corrections. This is why it’s important to measure your gravity reading after the mash, before the boil. Here’s how this works:

You first need to calculate the total gravity points you’re aiming for. Assuming you’re using one of my recipes which have post-boil volumes of 1.3 gallons, and assuming our recipe has a target OG of 1.065, you know that our beer needs to have 85 gravity points to hit our mark (1.3 x 65).
So, your wort is ready for the boil, and you take a gravity reading and it comes in at 1.035. Now you need to multiply those 35 points by the pre-boil volume in your kettle. Assuming you have 2.2 gallons in the kettle, you can determine the total gravity in your kettle: 2.2 x 35 = 77 points.
Now we know that we’re just off the mark: 85 (our target) minus 77 (our current gravity) = 8 points.
From here, we can assess how much DME to add. Remembering from above that DME has a potential of 46 points per lb, we divide 8 by 46 to get 0.17 lbs DME to add to the wort.