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American DIPA

296 calories
Method: All Grain
Style: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 6 gallons (fermentor volume)
Pre Boil Size: 8 gallons
Efficiency: 75% (brew house)
Source: Lenny Scolaro
Calories: 296 calories (Per 12oz)
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Amount Fermentable PPG °L Bill %
13 lb American - Pale 2-Row13 lb Pale 2-Row 37 1.8 69.9%
2 lb United Kingdom - Maris Otter Pale2 lb Maris Otter Pale 38 3.75 10.8%
1.5 lb American - Pilsner1.5 lb Pilsner 37 1.8 8.1%
1 lb German - Munich Dark1 lb Munich Dark 37 15.5 5.4%
1 lb Dry Malt Extract - Extra Light1 lb Dry Malt Extract - Extra Light 42 2.5 5.4%
0.1 lb American - Chocolate0.1 lb Chocolate 29 350 0.5%
18.6 lb Total      
Amount Variety Type AA Use Time IBU
1 oz Amarillo1 oz Amarillo Hops Leaf/Whole 10.4 First Wort  
0.5 oz Warrior0.5 oz Warrior Hops Pellet 16.7 Boil 60 min
0.5 oz Simcoe0.5 oz Simcoe Hops Pellet 12.2 Boil 50 min
0.5 oz Warrior0.5 oz Warrior Hops Pellet 16.7 Boil 40 min
0.5 oz Simcoe0.5 oz Simcoe Hops Pellet 12.2 Boil 30 min
0.5 oz Amarillo0.5 oz Amarillo Hops Pellet 9.3 Boil 20 min
0.5 oz Amarillo0.5 oz Amarillo Hops Pellet 9.3 Aroma 10 min
1 oz Amarillo1 oz Amarillo Hops Pellet 9.3 Aroma 1 min
2 oz Amarillo2 oz Amarillo Hops Leaf/Whole 10.4 Dry Hop 7 days
Mash Guidelines
Amount Description Type Temp Time
22 qtConversion RestInfusion150 °F60 min
18 qtMash-out/SpargeFly Sparge168 °F60 min
Other Ingredients
Amount Name Type Use Time
1 tsp Calcium Sulfate (Gypsum) Water Agt Mash 0 min.
2 tsp Calcium Chloride Water Agt Mash 0 min.
1.5 tsp Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salt) Water Agt Mash 0 min.
1 each Whirlfloc Tablet Fining Boil 10 min.
1 each Clarity Ferm 5ml vial Fining Primary 0 min.
Attenuation (avg):
Optimum Temp:
68 - 73 °F
Yeast Pitch Rate and Starter Calculator
Target Water Profile: Custom
Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl- SO4-2 HCO3-
120 25 10 60 325 15
Start with Nestle Pure-Life bottled water. Add water salts to 10 gallons. After grain absorption, boil, and dead space loss, will end up with 7.5 gallons in the brew pot. This allows for 1.5 gallons of boil loss and cooling volume loss which I find is pretty close to reality for the most part.
Mash Chemistry and Brewing Water Calculator
Quick Water Requirements
Water Gallons  Quarts
Total mash water needed 10.06 40.2  
Strike water volume at mash thickness of 1.5 qt/lb 6.6 26.4  
Remaining sparge water volume 3.46 13.8  
Grain absorption losses -2.2 -8.8  
Mash Lauter Tun dead space -0.25 -1  
Amount going into kettle 7.61 30.4  
Volume increase from sugar/extract (early additions) 0.08 0.3  
Adjusted starting boil size 7.69 30.8  
Boil off losses -1.5 -6  
Hops absorption losses -0.19 -0.8  
Amount going into fermentor 6 24  
Total: 10.06 40.2
The Basics:
I developed this recipe for a 6 gallon batch knowing that 1/2 a gallon will be left in the pot to avoid as much trub as possible. That said you will be fermenting 5.5 gallons.
All rest temperatures are in the tun, not strike water. You will need to calculate your strike water based on your grain temperature and type of mash tun you are using.
I use yeast starters in all of my recipes with what I think are excellent results. For my starters I compose the starter wort to closely approximate the sugar profile of the target batch. This helps the yeast develop the best cell membranes to ferment the final wort with little to no adjustment. I typically use a 1 quart starter for gravities 60 and above, and half quart for gravities below 60. I allow the starter to ferment a full 3 days to allow glycogen reserve buildup and settling. Then I pour out the first little bit of starter, pour the middle bit into a glass, then pour out the rest leaving mostly only the yeast cake. Then I smell and taste the bit in the glass to ensure there are no infections lurking. Sanitation is paramount.
The Beer:
I've brewed this batch a number of times. It is not at the high end of the Imperial/Double IPA spectrum, but it gives the drinker all the in-your-face hop aroma and flavor one could want, backed by balanced malt flavor and body. The Warrior hops are the cleanest high alpha hops I've found. Using them in the FWH and the boil set the foundation of the hop character of this beer. And while the remaining additions are all Centennial hop additions, because of the times and the fact that Centennial is already a complex hop, you get all the complexity you need. If you want to swap out for the other American "C's" (Citra, Crystal, Cascade, etc...) all of them will work well, but give this a go first.
Give this bad boy 10 days in the primary at 64-65 degrees, then rack to a secondary. Let the beer condition for 2 more weeks in the secondary, then add 1 oz. each of Centennial & Willamette whole hops for 1 additional week of conditioning with dry hops. As an alternative to 2 ounces of whole hops in the secondary, you can leach/rinse the Willamette hops with a small amount of boiled water or even better a boiled bottle or 2 of beer. I use this approach to add 1/4 ounce of Polyclar 10 with the boiled beer.
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Last Updated: 2012-05-16 19:21 UTC