What's your next brew

Here I was thinking that might be where the 10mm went.
 
Craigerrr said:
In spite of my discomfort I decided that the beer isn't going to brew itself! Mashing Thirteen Bitter Years at the moment.
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As we age, we discover that the only way to get it done is to just do it. One of the greatest men I've ever met was an icon of the Lions clubs of Northern California. Mel Martini had a favorite saying that hit home. It was made up of thirteen, 2 letter words. "If it is to be, it is up to us to do it." He always joked that, after living too long, he had to change one word. The edited version was. "If it is to be, it is up to me to do it".
 
I bashed my sternum and ankle pretty good playing hockey last night so with that and the rain outside I probably won't brew till the weekend. Not sure I can lift the water buckets right now.
 
Next to last pale ale in this series, 5.25 gal. of Willamette Pale Ale. 87% 2-row pale, 9% white wheat & 4% Caramel Munich, mashed at 150F. 2 ozs. Willamette at 10 and again at 1, bittered to a total of 48 IBUs with Warrior, fermented at 66F with BRY-97. Looking at OG: 1.057, FG: 1.013, weighing in at ~5.7% ABV. Probably be brewing Friday.
 
Simcoe single hop IPA. Trying a full volume mash and Lalbrew Voss kveik for the first time. My beers have been too bitter, so I moved the 60 minute hop addition to 30, so I'm thinking about a 30 minute boil. Seems like those of you that do short boils still make delicious beer
 
A short boil time and later bittering addition works well in most cases, but if you're doing it to reduce the bitterness in a beer, you're wasting hops. Reducing the bittering addition or moving some of those hops to later in the boil, or even to post boil, will either reduce the amount of hops you use or increase the flavor/aroma in the beer.

IBU predictions are based on models that are only accurate on the system used to develop them. You need to adjust them to fit your perception, and using your system. Weigh your options. Is the extra 30 minutes more valuable, or are the hops you're wasting? It's your decision, and will work either way.
 
I think I'm going to go with a session Saison since the ground water is too warm to get anything near lager temps.
 
BOB357 said:
A short boil time and later bittering addition works well in most cases, but if you're doing it to reduce the bitterness in a beer, you're wasting hops. Reducing the bittering addition or moving some of those hops to later in the boil, or even to post boil, will either reduce the amount of hops you use or increase the flavor/aroma in the beer.

IBU predictions are based on models that are only accurate on the system used to develop them. You need to adjust them to fit your perception, and using your system. Weigh your options. Is the extra 30 minutes more valuable, or are the hops you're wasting? It's your decision, and will work either way.
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I'm doing 1 gallon batches, so it seems like a small amount of hops being "wasted." More flavor/aroma sounds great. I'd be happy to post the recipe in the Recipe/Feedback forum for constructive criticism
 
The amount of hops you save is relative to the batch size, so your savings means the same to your batch size as the savings on a 5 gallon batch means to that batch size. The same holds true with the results you'd get by moving some of the bittering addition to later in the boil. Feel free to post the recipe for feedback. I'm sure you'll get more specific comments.
 
Hawkbox said:
I bashed my sternum and ankle pretty good playing hockey last night so with that and the rain outside I probably won't brew till the weekend. Not sure I can lift the water buckets right now.
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How do you social distance on the ice?
Hope you didn't do any serious damage.
 
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