Need an Opinion on A Sierra Nevada Clone--Virtual Tasting.
- Thread starter Mike at Bay
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The acidulated grains serve two purposes.....obviously fermentable and brings down the PH. I think I got it. Keep it under 10% of grains..only enough to achieve the desired result. I am a kid with a new toy,
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You shouldn't ever need more than 5% of acidulated. I use 3 or 4 percent in lighter beers and 1 or 2 percent in darker beers, if it all.
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You still don't have a concentration listed for your Lactic. When you apply that (88% is normal) your mash pH goes too low. Gotta input all the info or it won't work for you.
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Yeah, that works...there'll be an arrow up or down by the number to indicate whether it's too high or too low. But when I copy it to look at in the editor, your amount is too much and it shows up as 5.22. That may be a function of the recipe using a different water profile but double check everything.
The recipe builder will predict pH fairly well with accurate grain inputs. Mash pH is important closer to the beginning, so if you have a way to measure it, measure it 15 minutes in. Otherwise, ignore your water pH and just acidify your Sparge or rinse water. A tea- or tablespoon of acid won’t hurt and could help. (You can also use 4 oz of acidified grain, but that’s another thread). When needed, I use maybe 5 ml of 88% phosphoric acid for a 5 gallon batch.
All: Finally getting to using my PH meter on this finished beer and it comes in at 4.4. In reasonable range for finished beer. I don't to make too many assumptions but it is likely reasonable to assume my brewing PH was close. I really enjoy and drink a lot of IPA but I am wondering now if I just don't appreciate this hop bill.
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That's probably one of the milder hop schedule you're likely to encounter, though some may find some peppery quality in Magnum that they don't like. I have trouble with hops Ekuanot hops and any IPA I try that uses them I find unpleasant. Some other hops will have a harsh bitterness but can be pretty heavenly when used for later additions - El Dorado, Citra, Simcoe, Mosaic come to mind. Some piney/catpiss hops like Chinook and Cluster can be downright offensive to some folks.
You'll likely find that working with your water profile will help. First try not adding gypsum at all and use that as a base line. I find a huge difference in perceived bitterness when I up the quantity of gypsum. Try getting as close as you can to the malty water profile or balanced water profile but keep the sulfate/chloride ratio at 1.0 or lower. If you try brewing the same malt and hop bill with different water chemistry, you'll quickly dial in on a preferred style and/or accurate replication of a particular beer.
Suggest building from distilled or my house source?That's probably one of the milder hop schedule you're likely to encounter, though some may find some peppery quality in Magnum that they don't like. I have trouble with hops Ekuanot hops and any IPA I try that uses them I find unpleasant. Some other hops will have a harsh bitterness but can be pretty heavenly when used for later additions - El Dorado, Citra, Simcoe, Mosaic come to mind. Some piney/catpiss hops like Chinook and Cluster can be downright offensive to some folks.
You'll likely find that working with your water profile will help. First try not adding gypsum at all and use that as a base line. I find a huge difference in perceived bitterness when I up the quantity of gypsum. Try getting as close as you can to the malty water profile or balanced water profile but keep the sulfate/chloride ratio at 1.0 or lower. If you try brewing the same malt and hop bill with different water chemistry, you'll quickly dial in on a preferred style and/or accurate replication of a particular beer.
Lots of Mg in my home source. Goal would be to get as many in good range as possible and still achieve a PH in the mid 5's, right? Gypsum. really helps with that.
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I would build from distilled water, as you can start from a fresh / known / widely understood "canvas" so to speak.Lots of Mg in my home source. Goal would be to get as many in good range as possible and still achieve a PH in the mid 5's, right? Gypsum. really helps with that.
i have this Rye Pale Ale on at this point. The hop schedule is pretty solid IMO on this recipe.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/embed/1607172
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/embed/1607172
not sure that the perle belongs in this recipe??
you will get a little more bitterness and flavor if you start with a .5 cascade at 15 mins and then adjust, adding every 5 mins and then one post boil. i think 40 ibus is better for a PA personally.
This is what i would do personally.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/embed/1619695
I am not sure that a dryhop is needed on a pale ale. To me that slides the recipe towards IPA, but at the lower IBU maybe it fits? when i edited it, it used my last t90 cascade which was at 6.3AA might need to copy and adjust it to your hops to see a more accurate IBU
This is what i would do personally.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/embed/1619695
I am not sure that a dryhop is needed on a pale ale. To me that slides the recipe towards IPA, but at the lower IBU maybe it fits? when i edited it, it used my last t90 cascade which was at 6.3AA might need to copy and adjust it to your hops to see a more accurate IBU
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Thanks. One question about whirlpool. I don't have a pump. At boil temps a stir should be fine. At 180? Might be a dumb question but want to get as close as I can.
that is more of a question for others, but i would assume you are just stirring it vigorously?
How do you cool the wort? if you cant get the wort cool post boil fairly quickly how are you knocking out?
The temp is pretty important, as the hops act very differently at 180 vs 185. but once you hit those temps just letting it cool normally is cool
I don't whirlpool today. so it was a process question of what to do without a pump. As for chill, I use an immersion chiller and it gets to 180 pretty fast this time of year.
