What did you get delivered today

Last week the trusty Micronta digital multimeter I bought from Rat Shack 30+ years ago finally gave up the ghost. So I ordered a new multimeter from Amazon and it arrived today. It came as part of a kit, with three other testers. It's not a Fluke, but should work well for within my budget.

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I also got a 20W seedling mat I'll use to keep conditioning beer a little warmer in my basement.
 
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A wort pump and fittings for a whirlpool arm. Recirculation here I come!
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You won't regret that purchase. I haven't used finings on most of the last several batches simply because recirculation through the mash bed REALLY cleans up the wort. I recirculate through the entire mash process. I still don't quite have the hang of fly sparging, but it really bumped my efficiency just by vorlaufing the wort while it's mashing and while I'm batch sparging. Unfortunately, it won't do much for hops debris or hazing unless you get a filter to recirculate after brewing. Those things are fiendishly expensive. That's the only reason I use finings at the end of the boil at all, IF I use it. Most hops debris is eliminated with patience and a conical fermenter.

And it's LOT easier to fill the fermenter sitting in the freezer so I don't have to pick the heavy bugger up, especially in an awkward bent position while putting it in the freezer. I do not miss handling/lifting all the heavy containers for any of the transfers. Uphill transfer is no longer a problem, hot or otherwise. 5 gallon batches are much easier to do since the heavy lifting is mostly eliminated. Since you keg, you don't have to worry about handling a batch in a conditioning bucket, so there should be hardly any lifting at all. I still have the transfer to the bottling bucket (gravity) for blending in the priming sugar, and then bottling (gravity), but that's in a bucket with a much better lifting handle on it and less awkward shape than my fermenter. I only use the pump at process steps where aeration doesn't matter or is actually a good thing.

I would advise using silicone hosing and stainless steel quick disconnects instead of the hose barbs. That makes it a lot easier to clean up as well as reconfiguring very quick. The QD's are a little pricy, but well worth the price, IMO. I used stainless fittings that are compatible with some I have for my garden hose. This makes reversing the flow and blowing out the pump super easy and quick. Same for the hoses. After a quick purge with the garden hose, I just spray some Star-San in then hang them to let 'em drip dry. The vinyl hose stuff is a PITA when it's cold because it tries to coil up and doesn't drain dry. Even the food grade stuff isn't rated for the high temperatures. Anything vinyl that is rated for high temps is going to be incredibly stiff. Silicone hose doesn't care what the temperature is, it's just as flexible at 0F as it is at 212F.
 
I didn't take any photos, but the missus got me a FastWash 24 set up from FastFerment for Christmas. She also got the tray and two bottle racks. I washed bottles yesterday. It took longer to fill up a plastic tote enough (about 7.5 gallons)to cover the washer immersion pumps and nozzle platform than it did to wash 60 bottles. I can wash/sanitize 12 or 24 bottles at a time now. I rinse all of them after emptying them anyway (while all sediment is still easily removed), so most of my 'washing' process is sanitizing just prior to bottling. I'm going to make up a PBW solution to do some real bottle washing, but I got a feeling the foam is gonna overflow the tub. After I finished washing, I just put the Star-San solution into 5 gallon buckets to store it for re-use.

Normally, it would take me about an hour and a half to clean up 60 bottles for a bottling session. This took all of 15 minutes after I filled the tote. Color me impressed. Every bottle finished with a light foam in them top to bottom after draining and placing them in the drip tray. "Don't Fear the Foam" is what I read everywhere about Star-San, and this certainly is better than shaking each bottle after spraying them with Star-San to coat the entire inside of the bottle.
 
I didn't take any photos, but the missus got me a FastWash 24 set up from FastFerment for Christmas. She also got the tray and two bottle racks. I washed bottles yesterday. It took longer to fill up a plastic tote enough (about 7.5 gallons)to cover the washer immersion pumps and nozzle platform than it did to wash 60 bottles. I can wash/sanitize 12 or 24 bottles at a time now. I rinse all of them after emptying them anyway (while all sediment is still easily removed), so most of my 'washing' process is sanitizing just prior to bottling. I'm going to make up a PBW solution to do some real bottle washing, but I got a feeling the foam is gonna overflow the tub. After I finished washing, I just put the Star-San solution into 5 gallon buckets to store it for re-use.

Normally, it would take me about an hour and a half to clean up 60 bottles for a bottling session. This took all of 15 minutes after I filled the tote. Color me impressed. Every bottle finished with a light foam in them top to bottom after draining and placing them in the drip tray. "Don't Fear the Foam" is what I read everywhere about Star-San, and this certainly is better than shaking each bottle after spraying them with Star-San to coat the entire inside of the bottle.

Let me know how the fast washer works for you Tim. I bought one (FastWash 12) when the first came out and was disappointed. They specified to only use warm water (max 106°F (41°C)). OK for sanitizing but not washing. The water spouts that the bottles sit on were not all vertical, so in some bottles the liquid did not reach the edge on one side of the bottle. They stressed very strongly not to overtighten the screws so I did not. And it leaked like a sieve. So each use I would incrementally tighten the screws. It never stopped leaking, even when I tightened them enough to crack the plastic. After about a dozen uses I stopped using it. If they have improved the design, I may try another one.
 
Let me know how the fast washer works for you Tim. I bought one (FastWash 12) when the first came out and was disappointed. They specified to only use warm water (max 106°F (41°C)). OK for sanitizing but not washing. The water spouts that the bottles sit on were not all vertical, so in some bottles the liquid did not reach the edge on one side of the bottle. They stressed very strongly not to overtighten the screws so I did not. And it leaked like a sieve. So each use I would incrementally tighten the screws. It never stopped leaking, even when I tightened them enough to crack the plastic. After about a dozen uses I stopped using it. If they have improved the design, I may try another one.
Dunno when you got/had yours, but apparently they have indeed changed the design so that it no longer requires a gasket. There was a pretty big blurb in the instructions that pointed out the absence of the gasket. If yours had a gasket, then maybe you should. I think you can get the manifold without repurchasing the pump, which may save you a few bucks.

I didn't notice any leakage when I used it. I'm assuming you meant the jets from the nozzles didn't come out straight, as the nozzles are molded into the top half of the manifold and won't move. I did note that it looks like the nozzle holes were molded in rather than drilled after molding. I can see where that might cause some issues if there were any significant leakage in the mold. Mine weren't perfect, but for the most part, they did a pretty good job. I probably should have added a bit more Star-San, but I mixed for a 5 gallon solution, and it foamed up quite nicely from the splashing inside the bottles. Strangely, some bottles would foam up inside, some wouldn't. But, what I did notice as I removed the bottles from the rack in the drying tray is that ALL of them had a very nice looking light foam in them from the Star-San. Can't ask for a better distribution of the sanitizer.

The instructions give a pretty specific tightening sequence for the screws. The FW24 has LOT of screws in it, estimating nearly 50. That occupied a bit of my Christmas morning putting it together. The biggest thing is to tighten them sort of like tightening head bolts on an engine. I don't doubt that I didn't follow the sequence exactly, but a quick glance at the diagram reminded me of my days of owning a VW Baja and torquing the head studs on it. From the middle outward, and crisscrossing the pattern, basically forcing all the stresses to the outside of the manifolds. I used a regular screwdriver as the book said because I've destroyed my share of plastic parts using a drill-driver.

I don't think the jets are powerful enough to actually clean the bottles if there's any significant deposits, and it says not to use it for that purpose right in the instructions. They are more meant to just splash the inside of the bottle with cleaning/sanitizing solution. I didn't run the pumps with no bottles on because the missus would probably be a little disappointed with me if I did that in her kitchen. When warmer weather prevails, I'll try it outside. My water temperature was probably forward of 110F, as hot as I could get from the kitchen sink spray nozzle. I don't put Star-San in water much hotter because it reacts with the calcium in our water and clouds up, and the efficacy of the Star-San is reduced when that happens. According to Star-San's label, it works best between 70F and 110F, IIRC.

My normal washing method was with a brush in one sink with PBW in it, rinse in the next sink, then spray inside with Star-San after draining the rinse. I'd use the hottest water I could stick my bare hands in for some cleaning solvency. If I were going to use water hot enough to pasteurize, I'd just boil them and be done with it, then put them in the oven to bake them dry. I always wipe down the outsides of the bottles with a cloth soaked in Star-San solution just to make them nice and shiny after bottling. That seems to keep critters away from the storage. I'm slowly replacing all the cardboard boxes with wooden crates, too, or may just go to the FastRack trays. They're only about $12 each and take up even less space than the cardboard boxes because they stack tighter. They store the bottles upside down, so once clean, nothing's going in there and they should STAY clean because the mouth of the bottle doesn't touch anything. But, they're not ideal for storing filled bottles, so I'll have to keep enough wooden crates around for storing my inventory.
 
I usually try to avoid putting boiling wort in things that aren't rated for 212F :D
The stuff I bought had a better temperature rating than vinyl. I don't typically try to handle boiling stuff, but mash temperatures don't worry me nearly as much. A hot mash would probably still scald pretty good, but not quite as bad as boiling. The pump is rated (coincidentally) at 212. That's good news because that's the maximum temperature anything I'll ever pump with it, and most likely nothing over 170F. Once the mash is done, I disconnect the pump and don't connect it again until it's time to transfer cooled wort to the fermenter. Even though I know it was pasteurized during the mash, I wash it out and sanitize it with Star-San before transfer just to make sure I don't get any unwanted critters in the batch. I try not to let cool wort stay in the pump or hoses very long.
 
If you haven't had the Grand Reserve before, you are going dig it. I liked it so much I cloned it (or best clone) for me anyway.
I did liked it! I have had Belgians like it before, bit this one is my fav. Just the right level of sweet and sour finish.

I am excited to try the barrel aged grand reserve. Aged in whiskey barrel
 

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