Lagunitas sucks extract recipe

Also I see that you dry hop in keg. What do I need to dry hop in keg and transfer from dry hopping keg to serving keg? Guessing some sort of jumper line.. do I open keg 2 or go right in one of the balllock valves... should I just dryhop in carboy for my 1st rd? I have 2 corny kegs and a 5 gal co2 tank. Im guessing the later as to not try too many new things at one time to avoid mistakes... beer smells and look great tho still fermenting away.
 
I only dry hop in a keg on certain instances like you need more hops flavor or the end result isn't what you expected or you just want a certain hop to dominate the flavor.
Pulling the beer off several times can introduce all kinds of things into the beer also you lose at least up to a 1/2 gallon each time you pull off with the auto siphon so you might end up with 4.5 in the end anyway.
As you said first few times reduce mistakes by keeping it simple, then as you gain experience start doing 1 thing different at a time, that way you know what works and what doesn't
 
Ozarks Mountian Brew said:
I only dry hop in a keg on certain instances like you need more hops flavor or the end result isn't what you expected or you just want a certain hop to dominate the flavor.
Pulling the beer off several times can introduce all kinds of things into the beer also you lose at least up to a 1/2 gallon each time you pull off with the auto siphon so you might end up with 4.5 in the end anyway.
As you said first few times reduce mistakes by keeping it simple, then as you gain experience start doing 1 thing different at a time, that way you know what works and what doesn't
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May still secondary inbetween dry hopping thats how I always have done it 4 days primary. 4 days secondary then I'll go straight to keg 10-11 PSI for 2 weeks then try it. I close to a month before I get there. Prob add 1st dry hopping in another 10 or 12 days after checking SG. Then add 1st round of hops
 
I am also getting a 5 gal of big daddy ipa to "test" and play around with the kegerator (keeping 1 side commercial for a bit) interchangeable after conversion believe
 
Grabbed a six pack of Lagunitas Sucks when I stopped at our local market after golf tonight.
They haven't got in yet the beer I was looking for, so I stood there pondering for a bit, and then I saw Lagunitas Sucks on the shelf.
At that moment, I wasn't sure why I was drawn to that selection.
Then I got home and logged on to BrewersFriend and looked at the forum. :D
 
well now you have your next project lol, all grain or extract?
 
Wrong chemical in the argument for a 90-minute boil above: I should have mentioned DMS, driven off in the boil, rather than acetaldehyde, a product of incomplete or stressed fermentation.
 
My SG was right around 1.085 I took a reading tonight 5 days later and its around 1.020 lock has slowed a lot shoild I start dryhopping or wait a bit
 
if you can dry hop before fermentation stops completely its better because opening the lid and closing it just adds oxygen back in otherwise so yes its fine
 
Ozarks Mountian Brew said:
if you can dry hop before fermentation stops completely its better because opening the lid and closing it just adds oxygen back in otherwise so yes its fine
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1st round of dryhopping in the carboy
 
Sg 1.018 I beleive (bubbly in wine theif) just started round two of dry hopoing... beer taste like it has a lot of alcohol... my question is. When I rack to keg should I pressurize it to 12psi then disconnect and store at room temp for a few weeks to age? Checking the psi every day or two and brinibg it back to 12 psi when needed?
 
I age mine cold in the keezer, even if I'm keg hopping and some times drink a half glass every now and again just to monitor the carbonation and clarity
 
Ozarks Mountian Brew said:
I age mine cold in the keezer, even if I'm keg hopping and some times drink a half glass every now and again just to monitor the carbonation and clarity
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I have read that slows the aging process (I could be wrong as all I have done is read about it) also if I age at room temp. (Charge purge charge purge charge at 30psi) will I need to "top off" with c02 as it absorbs into the beer? Also will the psi to proper levels 10-12 psi as it cools to 34 degrees?
 
I also age my brews cold - I keep my brews at 41 degrees @ 13 PSI straight from the primary, or secondary if I used it. I pull a glass here and there like Ozark to see where it's at.

As far as your question about having to charge goes - Yeah, if you don't keep the CO2 hooked up you would have to charge it as it dissolves into the beer.

Once it goes in to the fridge/keezer you would theoretically have the same amount of CO2 dissolved in the beer so you should be good as far as the carbonation amount goes..

If you look at carbonation charts it's not really effective to carbonate at room temp. At 65 degrees you need to keep 30 psi on the beer to get it to 2.58 volumes. At 34 degrees it's 10 PSI for 2.58 volumes.
 
UgliestLemming said:
I also age my brews cold - I keep my brews at 41 degrees @ 13 PSI straight from the primary, or secondary if I used it. I pull a glass here and there like Ozark to see where it's at.

As far as your question about having to charge goes - Yeah, if you don't keep the CO2 hooked up you would have to charge it as it dissolves into the beer.

Once it goes in to the fridge/keezer you would theoretically have the same amount of CO2 dissolved in the beer so you should be good as far as the carbonation amount goes..

If you look at carbonation charts it's not really effective to carbonate at room temp. At 65 degrees you need to keep 30 psi on the beer to get it to 2.58 volumes. At 34 degrees it's 10 PSI for 2.58 volumes.
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Thanks. About how long do you find you need to age high gravity beers for cold? Both of you may have convinced me just to cool it. I keep my kegerator at 34 degrees.
 
well you can age as long as you as you want but at 12 psi a week and the carbonating is done in most cases, you can charge then pull it off every day to extend that time if needed, but for hoppy beers every week that passes the hop flavor just gets weaker
 
Ozarks Mountian Brew said:
well you can age as long as you as you want but at 12 psi a week and the carbonating is done in most cases, you can charge then pull it off every day to extend that time if needed, but for hoppy beers every week that passes the hop flavor just gets weaker
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The two ipa I have made before had seemed to get better after the 2-3 week in the bottle at cellar temps. I never aged them in fridge after that but they became better tasting as I let them age a bit. I will go with the carb it up at 12psi for a week in the kegerator this time because its easier and start pulling a beer every other day from it....unless its plain awesome the first pull.
 
what happens with aged beer in a keg at cool temps, in my case 34. all the partials fall to the bottom and that is where the pick up tube is located, so for best results you would age the beer in one keg then pull it off the top with an auto-siphon into another keg, then carb that keg and serve, but if you don't: the first 4 beers will be cloudy and heavy with flavor
 
Ozarks Mountian Brew said:
what happens with aged beer in a keg at cool temps, in my case 34. all the partials fall to the bottom and that is where the pick up tube is located, so for best results you would age the beer in one keg then pull it off the top with an auto-siphon into another keg, then carb that keg and server, but if you don't: the first 4 beers will be cloudy and heavy with flavor
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I rocked to a smaller secondary and dry hopped again so it is a little clearer. Ill rack this straight to the keg on friday, set at 12 psi and forget it for a week in the kegerator. Glads I got two taps
 
I also want to thank everyone for being helpful and not arrogant jerks... this noob appreciates it
 
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