First attempt biab, Questions!

[Mastoras007]

Theanks for your replys.
Fermentation seems to going veeery very slow.
I'm just waiting some days to take some measurements of gravity.
Let me ask you something more, because I'm preparing for carbonating
There is this "heater" for co2 bottle, is this necessary?
I will buy this equipment tomorrow, regulator And bottle of co2 but someone Tel me that i need to buy also heater, I'm not sure of this is necessary, the co2 flow is to low, what's your opinion on this??

 

[Minbari]

Theanks for your replys.
Fermentation seems to going veeery very slow.
I'm just waiting some days to take some measurements of gravity.
Let me ask you something more, because I'm preparing for carbonating
There is this "heater" for co2 bottle, is this necessary?
I will buy this equipment tomorrow, regulator And bottle of co2 but someone Tel me that i need to buy also heater, I'm not sure of this is necessary, the co2 flow is to low, what's your opinion on this??

not needed. even if your co2 bottle is in the kegerator, pressure will be well above 500PSI

 

[GFHomebrew]

I never did extract, so didn't know they skipped the boil either.

Either way, you chill before it goes in the fermenter either way. Sanitation is still paramount

Tis how I used to and the instructions on the can say the same.

You can and I did get just straight (un hopped) liquid malt extract and then you add hops and boil ect .

 

[GFHomebrew]

Theanks for your replys.
Fermentation seems to going veeery very slow.
I'm just waiting some days to take some measurements of gravity.
Let me ask you something more, because I'm preparing for carbonating
There is this "heater" for co2 bottle, is this necessary?
I will buy this equipment tomorrow, regulator And bottle of co2 but someone Tel me that i need to buy also heater, I'm not sure of this is necessary, the co2 flow is to low, what's your opinion on this??

I keep my C02 bottle on my keezer (maybe I need a heater) lol.

Keep your money and spend it on brewing ingredients.

What's that saying a fool and his money part quickly especially when your new to something and feel you need to buy all this stuff to make your beer better!

Trust me man you don't need all that jazz you can make beer at home with basic kitchen utensils.

 

[Craigerrr]

When you take a sample to measure, give it a bit of time for any hop debris to fall out. Having said that, yeast are living organisms, they will work at their own speed. Taking frequent samples won't make it ferment faster, and you are just wasting beer unnecessarily.

 

[Donoroto]

Agree: CO2 tanks do not need to be heated, even at -10 C.

 

[GFHomebrew]

Agree: CO2 tanks do not need to be heated, even at -10 C.

Now what temp does co2 turn to liquid?

I'd imagine maybe -30 might start to slow things down.

I remember looking at that dry ice filling co2 canisters recommended freezing the co2 container first...

 

[Minbari]

Now what temp does co2 turn to liquid?

I'd imagine maybe -30 might start to slow things down.

I remember looking at that dry ice filling co2 canisters recommended freezing the co2 container first...

co2 is liquid in every co2 tank you see. if you look about 5 post above this one , I posted the vapor phase chart for co2. pressure for which is phases from liquid to gas is temperature dependent, but it starts as liquid....

 

[Donoroto]

CO2 is kind of odd, in that the liquid phase is quite small and limited. It is almost always a gas or solid, including in a tank. Of course, we don't care what phase it has, nor does it matter.

 

[Minbari]

CO2 is kind of odd, in that the liquid phase is quite small and limited. It is almost always a gas or solid, including in a tank. Of course, we don't care what phase it has, nor does it matter.

When it's in the tank, its liquid.

It's only becomes a gas at less than the vapor phase pressure. so ~@60F it will turn from liquid to gas at less than 750psi. once pressure is reestablish, it will stop gassing

 

[GFHomebrew]

When it's in the tank, its liquid.

It's only becomes a gas at less than the vapor phase pressure. so ~@60F it will turn from liquid to gas at less than 750psi. once pressure is reestablish, it will stop gassing

This is what I thought it's liquid that's why when filling another cylinder you invert the filling tank to help the flow and freeze the recieving vessel to keep it liquid?

 

[Minbari]

This is what I thought it's liquid that's why when filling another cylinder you invert the filling tank to help the flow and freeze the recieving vessel to keep it liquid?

You freeze the receiving vessel to lower its pressure. If they are the same pressure the liquid won't transfer.

But, yes, inverting the tank or having a siphon tube tank designed for liquid transfer is what you want for that. For a bar, you just want the gas

 

[BarbarianBrewer]

Not always Sandy most kit and kilo extract kits you incorporate the LME into some hot water in the fermenter then top off to 21lt mark throw in the yeast and your done.

All the extract kits I have brewed required boiling. The LME did not contain hops. The hops were added at the start of the boil just like all-grain. Maybe Australian kits primarily have hopped extract? But as other's have said sanitation post-boil is very important.

definately a posibility. check amazon. they have it. quart will last years.

I find that StarSan only lasts if I use distilled water. Using regular tap water it clouds up after a few days. I don't have a pH meter so don't know its pH but, I think I've read that cloudy StarSan indiates its not longer effective.

 

[Donoroto]

All the extract kits I have brewed required boiling. The LME did not contain hops. The hops were added at the start of the boil just like all-grain. Maybe Australian kits primarily have hopped extract? But as other's have said sanitation post-boil is very important.


I find that StarSan only lasts if I use distilled water. Using regular tap water it clouds up after a few days. I don't have a pH meter so don't know its pH but, I think I've read that cloudy StarSan indiates its not longer effective.

I agree, cloudy starsan isn't good any more.

 

[Minbari]

All the extract kits I have brewed required boiling. The LME did not contain hops. The hops were added at the start of the boil just like all-grain. Maybe Australian kits primarily have hopped extract? But as other's have said sanitation post-boil is very important.


I find that StarSan only lasts if I use distilled water. Using regular tap water it clouds up after a few days. I don't have a pH meter so don't know its pH but, I think I've read that cloudy StarSan indiates its not longer effective.

tap water will cloud up. the acid precipitates the calcium and other minerals out. it is still pefectly good. mine is six month old and still under ph of 2.5

 

[GFHomebrew]

All the extract kits I have brewed required boiling. The LME did not contain hops. The hops were added at the start of the boil just like all-grain. Maybe Australian kits primarily have hopped extract? But as other's have said sanitation post-boil is very important.


I find that StarSan only lasts if I use distilled water. Using regular tap water it clouds up after a few days. I don't have a pH meter so don't know its pH but, I think I've read that cloudy StarSan indiates its not longer effective.

Coopers Extract kits do even old mate milky over there the Canadian dude loves em rekons their the best kit and kilo hombrew kits over- Muntons MANGROVE JACK’S ect

Here ya go this is UK but same in Aus and America if ya use them kits.

If you do ignore the instructions and decide to boil you just might end up with more bitterness but doubt it after the LME process

Disclaimer its been many years since doing one of these kits.

Actually brewed and extract brew 1st batch this year with Brown rice malt extract so I'm not dissing it at all.

Whatever gets you across the line go for it i say!

 

[Mastoras007]

hello everyone.
Today is day 3 that my beer have stable gravity.
1025 tempreture 19-20 celcius, the airtrap activity is almost 0.
thee final gravity of the orignal recipe was 1009
so what is went whrong? the fermatation ends very fast in 5 days, the last 3 days i have no activty and stable gravity i have fermentainig total 8 days.
what is your opinion i must do now?
beer taste greate
i leave it some days more or i'm going to the next step freezing 7 days for cleaning and then kegging?

 

[Mastoras007]

 

[Minbari]

hello everyone.
Today is day 3 that my beer have stable gravity.
1025 tempreture 19-20 celcius, the airtrap activity is almost 0.
thee final gravity of the orignal recipe was 1009
so what is went whrong? the fermatation ends very fast in 5 days, the last 3 days i have no activty and stable gravity i have fermentainig total 8 days.
what is your opinion i must do now?
beer taste greate
i leave it some days more or i'm going to the next step freezing 7 days for cleaning and then kegging?

Do you remember what temp you mashed at? Also what temp you pitched the yeast in at?

My guess is that your mash temps were too high. (Above 158F) forat least some of the time during mash. this will kill off the enzymes that convert starch in to sugar.

If you have a stable gravity, it is done. Cold crash it and keg/bottle it!

It's still beer, will be a bit low on alcohol and finish sweet.

 

[Mastoras007]

Do you remember what temp you mashed at? Also what temp you pitched the yeast in at?

My guess is that your mash temps were too high. (Above 158F) forat least some of the time during mash. this will kill off the enzymes that convert starch in to sugar.

If you have a stable gravity, it is done. Cold crash it and keg/bottle it!

It's still beer, will be a bit low on alcohol and finish sweet.

I start from 160F i continue to 152F but my temprteture control system is DIY and this is the first atemp so some times the tempreture travel up a litle bit.
Also at the ending 10 minutes the recipe ask a mash out at 168F so i did,
the yeast i use first i re-hydrated as the recipe says, later i throw it in the wort but the temprature im not sure how much was, i thing was about 77-79F