Easy Smash (Centennial, Wildfire Pale Malt, S-04) - Beer Recipe - Brewer's Friend

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Easy Smash (Centennial, Wildfire Pale Malt, S-04)

145 calories 15 g 12 oz
Beer Stats
Method: All Grain
Style: American Pale Ale
Boil Time: 30 min
Batch Size: 2 gallons (fermentor volume)
Pre Boil Size: 2.58 gallons
Post Boil Size: 2.33 gallons
Pre Boil Gravity: 1.040 (recipe based estimate)
Post Boil Gravity: 1.044 (recipe based estimate)
Efficiency: 60% (brew house)
Calories: 145 calories (Per 12oz)
Carbs: 15 g (Per 12oz)
Created: Friday January 22nd 2021
1.044
1.011
4.5%
32.4
5.7
5.3
n/a
 
Fermentables
Amount Fermentable Cost PPG °L Bill %
4 lb American - Pale Ale4 lb Pale Ale 37 3.5 100%
4 lbs / 0.00
 
Hops
Amount Variety Cost Type AA Use Time IBU Bill %
0.23 oz Centennial0.23 oz Centennial Hops Pellet 8.9 Boil 30 min 16.34 6.4%
0.35 oz Centennial0.35 oz Centennial Hops Pellet 8.9 Boil 15 min 16.05 9.8%
1.50 oz Centennial1.5 oz Centennial Hops Pellet 8.9 Whirlpool at 165 °F 30 min 41.9%
1.50 oz Centennial1.5 oz Centennial Hops Pellet 8.9 Dry Hop 0 days 41.9%
3.58 oz / 0.00
 
Other Ingredients
Amount Name Cost Type Use Time
0.40 g Calcium Chloride (anhydrous) Water Agt Mash 1 hr.
2.50 g Gypsum Water Agt Mash 1 hr.
16.77 ml Phosphoric acid Water Agt Mash 1 hr.
0.13 each Campden Tablets Water Agt Other --
0.50 each Whirlfloc Fining Boil 10 min.
13.75 g Go-Ferm PE Other Primary --
1 g Fermaid O Other Primary --
4.97 ml Phosphoric acid Water Agt Sparge 1 hr.
 
Yeast
Fermentis - Safale - English Ale Yeast S-04
Amount:
1 Each
Cost:
Attenuation (avg):
75%
Flocculation:
High
Optimum Temp:
54 - 77 °F
Starter:
No
Fermentation Temp:
65 °F
Pitch Rate:
0.35 (M cells / ml / ° P) 29 B cells required
0.00 Yeast Pitch Rate and Starter Calculator
Priming
Method: co2       Amount: 11.46 psi       Temp: 38 °F       CO2 Level: 2.52 Volumes
 
Target Water Profile
Light colored and hoppy
Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl- SO4-2 HCO3-
75 5 10 50 150 0
Mash Chemistry and Brewing Water Calculator
 
Mash Guidelines
Amount Description Type Start Temp Target Temp Time
3 gal Strike 158 °F 152 °F 60 min
Starting Mash Thickness: 1.2 qt/lb
Starting Grain Temp: 62 °F
Quick Water Requirements
Water Gallons  Quarts
Strike water volume at mash thickness of 1.2 qt/lb 1.2 4.8  
Mash volume with grains 1.52 6.1  
Grain absorption losses -0.5 -2  
Remaining sparge water volume (equipment estimates 2.38 g | 9.5 qt) 2.13 8.5  
Mash Lauter Tun losses -0.25 -1  
Pre boil volume (equipment estimates 2.83 g | 11.3 qt) 2.58 10.3  
Boil off losses -0.75 -3  
Hops absorption losses (first wort, boil, aroma) -0.02 -0.1  
Post boil Volume (equipment estimates 2.06 g | 8.2 qt) 2.33 9.3  
Hops absorption losses (whirlpool, hop stand) -0.06 -0.2  
WARNING: Exceeded batch size - reduce boil size    
Going into fermentor (equipment estimates 2.27 g | 9.1 qt) 2 8  
Total: 3.33 13.3
Equipment Profile Used: System Default
 
Notes

Rough SMASH template, the idea is to keep OG and IBUs roughly consistent between SMASH batches for a consistent comparison.

  • Water profile should remain consistent, and mash pH should be adjusted to 5.4.

  • OG should be roughly 1.050. FG may differ widely depending on fermentable sugar percentage and yeast attenuation, but that's a decent starting point.

  • Mash should be 152f for a fairly fermentable sugar profile that preserves some body. I'll have to work out a standard step mash (with beta-glucanase and protein rests) for instances where that's appropriate.

  • Sparge/Mash ratio and procedure should be done in a consistent manner, but it doesn't matter too much so long as the efficiency isn't horrible (can always add more grain) and off flavors aren't introduced.

  • Short Boil, 30m should be plenty.

  • Aim for ~30 IBUs, which should be reasonable target for 2oz of even low AA hops. Aim for an even split in IBU contribution between the 30m and 15m additions, and then throw 1.5 oz into a medium temperature (165f) whirlpool and another 1.5 oz into the dry hop at pitch. While a dry hopping at pitch is a little unorthodox, my reading (so far) indicates this should be fine in the majority of cases, and will certainly be much easier (and risk less oxidation). Overall, the late additions should make for reasonable flavor/aroma.

  • For dry yeasts, rehydrate in Go-Ferm PE. Use a small amount of Fermaid O yeast nutrient (aim for just above the 10g/HL) at pitch to keep the yeast happy. If the yeast is particularly nutrient hungry more nutrient additions may be required, but that can be addressed on a case by case basis.

    ----------------------------

    Brew Day notes:

    First brew with new equipment, and the efficiency was a little lower than I had hoped. Hopefully my pump, when I finally get it in (c'mon Blichmann), will help address this.

    Moving from nylon BIAB to the BEMaB, I need to increase the gap size on my mill a bit - there was a fair bit of grain particulate that made it through the mash into the boil (and some of it into the fermenter), and a bit of sticking/near-scorching from the very fine particles.

    Temperatures seemed to fluctuate pretty wildly in the mash, despite my attempts to manually recirculate every 10 minutes or so, but hopefully this is yet another thing the pump will help with. I tried for 152, but I think I got 147-158, and my "mash-out" at 168 had much the same variation. Another step I'll take next time is to add a Reflectix wrap around the unit - should help stabilize those temperatures and speed up the heating rate.

    The boil was fairly smooth, for the most part, but I made the questionable choice of not using my hop spider. The immersion wort chiller was also the source of a minor hiccup: it doesn't stick quite far enough down into the kettle, and so with less than three gallons in the kettle it didn't have as much liquid contact as I'd like. Hopefully it had enough contact to sterilize it during the boil, I suppose I'll see.

    During the whirlpool I shot past my intended target a little, and ended up all over the 155-170 temperature interval. That shouldn't have too much of an impact, but next time I'll be sure to stop chilling a little earlier.

    Trying to gather the trub into a cone via manual whirlpool was a bit of an exercise in frustration, and I know I got a bunch of trub into the fermenter on accident. Hopefully this'll be yet another thing the pump fixes, but I might take out the side dip tube I rigged up if I do another brew without it.

    ----------------------------

    Packaging and Sample Notes:

    Finally managed to get my pressure transfers down pat with the torpedo buoy and floating dip tube filter. Adding a ~10g stainless steel weight (in the form of a large washer) solved the problem I was having where the end of the floating dip tube wanted to rise above the level of the liquid.

    From the sample it's clear this will end up bracingly bitter - certainly not ~30 IBUS, and it's clear that either the whirlpool utilization calculator is very wrong in it's 0% utilization at 165 or I pulled more IBUs out of the spikes to ~170 during the whirlpool than I thought I did. More research into whirlpool hop utilization is necessary, and it might be worth cutting out the 30m hop addition altogether and balancing the IBUs between the 15m addition and the whirlpool addition if I'm going to be getting this sort of utilization.

    On the other hand, bitterness aside, the flavor I'm getting from the centennial is great - dry hopping at pitch seems to have worked out just fine.

    There weren't any fermentation off flavors I could detect, thought I'll have to wait at least another few days while the rest of it carbs up.

    On a belated note, my poor mash efficiency might have been caused by channeling, from crushing too fine and not stirring after dough in. I'll be able to recirculate properly next time, but I'll also need to adjust my mill and stir a few extra times during the first 30m.
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  • Last Updated: 2021-01-29 17:56 UTC
  • Snapshot Created: 2021-01-22 20:03 UTC
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