What's your next brew

Herm brews said:
Unfortunately, I did not take many pictures, but I can describe it.
There were 8 holes dug against the stem wall, 2 in the NW corner and the remainder along the west side. The footing was broken away, then a steel piling with a helical drive point was rotationally driven down using a Bobcat excavator. When a minimum depth of 5 feet was reached below the bottom of the stem wall, and a minimum pressure of 1500 psi, the piling was set. Atop the piling was placed a jack driven lift plate, with 4 of those getting an extra 2 foot wide angle iron. The jacks were cranked to lift the NW corner ~1.75 inches, with minor lifts of 1/4 to 1/2 inch for the rest. Guaranteed to maintain the lift and level.
Finally, new treated cedar piers replaced the old untreated piers, and the new piers are actually adjustable. So our floors are much more stable now. I had to partially dismantle about 40 feet of deck for them to have access - that was a PITA, but it was a good learning experience. I just got everything reassembled yesterday afternoon, and I know well that I am not the young man I used to be.
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My neighbor had this done, too. I think he told me something like $3K per pilon, so you actually got a pretty good deal at $20K. Sure makes future mods and updates a lot easier when things are flat, plumb, and level. NOTHING about this house mets any of those criteria. I don’t think the builder had a level, plumb bob, or square on his truck. If he did, none of it got scratched up on this build.

Edit:

Forgot to ask, but have you had those siding tiles tested for asbestos? They look an awful lot like siding from the 60’s made by DuPont. Not a problem as long as they’re left undisturbed. But VERY expensive for remediation if you ever elect to replace it.
 
RoadRoach said:
My neighbor had this done, too. I think he told me something like $3K per pilon, so you actually got a pretty good deal at $20K. Sure makes future mods and updates a lot easier when things are flat, plumb, and level. NOTHING about this house mets any of those criteria. I don’t think the builder had a level, plumb bob, or square on his truck. If he did, none of it got scratched up on this build.

Edit:

Forgot to ask, but have you had those siding tiles tested for asbestos? They look an awful lot like siding from the 60’s made by DuPont. Not a problem as long as they’re left undisturbed. But VERY expensive for remediation if you ever elect to replace it.
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This process of foundation stabilization is very common in this part of Eugene, where we sit atop lava flows and the younger alluvial deposits derived from those flows. Naturally, these igneous and sedimentary deposits weather to form clay, which tends to swell during the wet season, then contract during the dry season. Our first indication of a problem came in July, when our dining room floor became a little more spongy, and a lot more noisy. Then the French door in that room suddenly became unaligned and extremely difficult to latch.

Those siding pieces are actually cedar shingles that are painted. Our home was built in 1963, so more than likely some of the older layers of paint are probably lead-based. There are some funky colors underneath the Forest Service Green.
 
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Herm brews said:
This process of foundation stabilization is very common in this part of Eugene, where we sit atop lava flows and the younger alluvial deposits derived from those flows. Naturally, these igneous and sedimentary deposits weather to form clay, which tends to swell during the wet season, then contract during the dry season. Our first indication of a problem came in July, when our dining room floor became a little more spongy, and a lot more noisy. Then the French door in that room suddenly became unaligned and extremely difficult to latch.

Those siding pieces are actually cedar shingles that are painted. Our home was built in 1963, so more than likely some of the older layers of paint are probably lead-based. There are some funky colors underneath the Forest Service Green.
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Glad they’re cedar. It was probably easier and cheaper to get large cedar shaker shingles up there than down here. If you have no plans to change the siding or sanding it down, the lead will not leach through any latex covering it. Just make sure you or anyone else that drills/cuts on it wears appropriate PPE. Might wanna check local disposal requirements, too. Lead isn’t nearly as hazardous as asbestos, but don’t let any babies chew on the shingles.

Full disclosure of the presence of lead is also normally required in sales contracts. If you didn’t sign/acknowledge such a disclosure, then the seller can get in a LOT of trouble for not telling you it’s there. The loophole there is that they can say “MAY be present” and put the onus on you for testing. Once tested, the person who had it tested OWNS the responsibility and liability for the test and absolutely must disclose on sale. A quick test during a home inspection can inform you, but you cannot make the seller address it’s presence in any contract. After sale, the buyer becomes an infomed party and current owner of the liability for the lead. The only thing that can certify the house/paint as lead free is a test. Now loop back to the beginning. This is the kind of thing that needs to be changed in real estate law. Once found during any test, the current owner should be required by law to disclose any test data during sales proceedings. That’s just my opinion though.

Back to the regularly scheduded program though, my next brew will be another smash, or an oatmeal stout.
 
Herm brews said:
Unfortunately, I did not take many pictures, but I can describe it.
There were 8 holes dug against the stem wall, 2 in the NW corner and the remainder along the west side. The footing was broken away, then a steel piling with a helical drive point was rotationally driven down using a Bobcat excavator. When a minimum depth of 5 feet was reached below the bottom of the stem wall, and a minimum pressure of 1500 psi, the piling was set. Atop the piling was placed a jack driven lift plate, with 4 of those getting an extra 2 foot wide angle iron. The jacks were cranked to lift the NW corner ~1.75 inches, with minor lifts of 1/4 to 1/2 inch for the rest. Guaranteed to maintain the lift and level.
Finally, new treated cedar piers replaced the old untreated piers, and the new piers are actually adjustable. So our floors are much more stable now. I had to partially dismantle about 40 feet of deck for them to have access - that was a PITA, but it was a good learning experience. I just got everything reassembled yesterday afternoon, and I know well that I am not the young man I used to be.
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Holy cow! What a process. But thanks for the photos, I love seeing things like that. And, glad it turned out well.
 
Make a session version and call it "Light in the Wallet" LOL.
We are getting doors put in next month (all the exterior doors). That, plus replacing the windows this year made us a little lighter in the savings too, but it really, really needed to be done.
Sorry, meant that for Herm.
 
Best bitter: 5.5 lbs Crisp #19 maris otter.
 

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I just did some switching around and put my Dark Mild back to start around five weeks as I have plenty of dark beers at the moment.
 
Over The Cliff Brewing said:
I think I'm going to try a schwartzbier and of course a NE IPA. Either all in one day or consecutive days. Maybe Saturday. It's surprising how quickly 2.5 gallon batches disappear.
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It’s surprising how quickly 5 gallon batches disappear.
 
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