SMaSH Mosaic - first attempt

[Box of Rocks]

Attempting a SMaSH Mosaic BIAB, and want to double check the inputs. Targeting a small batch, with about 2.8 gallons into the fermenter. According to the recipe builder, I should be at a 6.8% ABV assuming 50% efficiency using 9.1 lbs of Weyermann Pilsner. This amount seems really high, since many similar-sized all grain recipes are around 6 lbs or so, and I was initially thinking of using 6.5 lbs. Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice.

 

[Mark Farrall]

It seems a bit high, but not that strange. That's about my standard batch size so dropping the efficiency from 75% - 50% using the scaling tool here on one of my recipes increased the grain bill by 50%. Your standard 6 lbs (which would generally be 75% efficiency) becomes around 9 lbs.

 

[Box of Rocks]

It seems a bit high, but not that strange. That's about my standard batch size so dropping the efficiency from 75% - 50% using the scaling tool here on one of my recipes increased the grain bill by 50%. Your standard 6 lbs (which would generally be 75% efficiency) becomes around 9 lbs.

Very helpful, thanks Mark! First attempt at biab, and no idea how low my efficiency will be, so am erring on the conservative side.

 

[Mark Farrall]

That's pretty conservative. I'd have a fair bit of boiled water handy at the end to dilute. Or let it ride and call it a double smash.

 

[Bubba Wade]

I agree with Mark. With BIAB, you can have a finer grind and make up the efficiency. Are you going to mash in the pot? Heat loss is probably the biggest concern with brew in a bag. If you can hold between 147 and 156, you should have a good mash.

 

[Mark Farrall]

Looked through a bunch of old brewing logs. I was useless at mashing my first half dozen or so batches, terrible temp control. Worst I got was low 60s.

 

[Box of Rocks]

I agree with Mark. With BIAB, you can have a finer grind and make up the efficiency. Are you going to mash in the pot? Heat loss is probably the biggest concern with brew in a bag. If you can hold between 147 and 156, you should have a good mash.

Thanks Bubba Wade. Mashing in the pot, planning on 152 for 60 min. Gains were ground by the supplier, so can’t change that.

 

[Box of Rocks]

Looked through a bunch of old brewing logs. I was useless at mashing my first half dozen or so batches, terrible temp control. Worst I got was low 60s.

Sounds good, maybe there is hope for higher efficiency. Maybe I’ll shoot for 65% and pay close attention to my thermometer.

 

[GFHomebrew]

Give it a few stirs throughout the mash and as bubba said get the hombrew store to mill it twice or even mention the grain is for a biab brew.

What are you doing with you mosaic additions in the Smash? As in what times and how much...?

 

[Megary]

Thanks Bubba Wade. Mashing in the pot, planning on 152 for 60 min. Gains were ground by the supplier, so can’t change that.

If your grains came pre-milled they probably weren’t milled with BIAB in mind. I’d aim for 60% and consider a 90 minute mash with stirring every 5-10 minutes like @Trialben suggests.

If you aren’t milling your own grains, see if your supplier will at least “double mill” them next time.

A low efficiency is irrelevant in the end, aside from costing you a couple of extra bucks on the grain. The key is *knowing* your efficiency. You’ll get it dialed in for sure.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

[Sunfire96]

I switched to BIAB on the stovetop a few batches ago, and I generally get a brewhouse efficiency between 55-65%, so I build my recipes at 58%. I use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag from the hardware store, stir and check the temp every 10 minutes after doughing in, and check the gravity after 30 minutes. If it matches my target preboil gravity, I'll move onto the boil, but if the points are still low, then I'll wait for the full hour, still checking and stirring every 10 mins. Oh, and after a great tip from @Herm_brews, I take the top rack out of my oven, set it to 170F, and leave my mash in there between stirrings. Yesterday I stayed at 152F for the whole mash for the first time.

Edited to add: I buy all of my grain milled, sometimes from my brick and mortar LHBS, sometimes from online retailers. I recently ordered my grain double milled, but was disappointed I didn't see a substantial increase to extract efficiency. Maybe as I reach the end of the bags and more of the grain flour is added, that will make more of a difference.

 

[Box of Rocks]

Give it a few stirs throughout the mash and as bubba said get the hombrew store to mill it twice or even mention the grain is for a biab brew.

What are you doing with you mosaic additions in the Smash? As in what times and how much...?

Got it!
Planning on:
0.35 oz 60 min
0.65 oz 10 min
1 oz 180 degree F whirlpool
4 oz 4 days in dry hop

 

[Box of Rocks]

If your grains came pre-milled they probably weren’t milled with BIAB in mind. I’d aim for 60% and consider a 90 minute mash with stirring every 5-10 minutes like @Trialben suggests.

If you aren’t milling your own grains, see if your supplier will at least “double mill” them next time.

A low efficiency is irrelevant in the end, aside from costing you a couple of extra bucks on the grain. The key is *knowing* your efficiency. You’ll get it dialed in for sure.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

90 min might be needed this time then, and with a 60perc expectation for efficiency, with stirring.

 

[Box of Rocks]

I switched to BIAB on the stovetop a few batches ago, and I generally get a brewhouse efficiency between 55-65%, so I build my recipes at 58%. I use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag from the hardware store, stir and check the temp every 10 minutes after doughing in, and check the gravity after 30 minutes. If it matches my target preboil gravity, I'll move onto the boil, but if the points are still low, then I'll wait for the full hour, still checking and stirring every 10 mins. Oh, and after a great tip from @Herm_brews, I take the top rack out of my oven, set it to 170F, and leave my mash in there between stirrings. Yesterday I stayed at 152F for the whole mash for the first time.

Edited to add: I buy all of my grain milled, sometimes from my brick and mortar LHBS, sometimes from online retailers. I recently ordered my grain double milled, but was disappointed I didn't see a substantial increase to extract efficiency. Maybe as I reach the end of the bags and more of the grain flour is added, that will make more of a difference.

Very helpful. Do you cool the wort to 70f or so before taking gravity?

 

[SabreSteve]

Very helpful. Do you cool the wort to 70f or so before taking gravity?

You would for your post boil OG reading but if you're trying to take a pre-boil one after your mash you probably won't want to cool your wort to take a reading just to heat it back up to a boil. There's a hydrometer tempature correction calculator on here though that I think goes up to 159 F

 

[SabreSteve]

FYI I brewed my first BIAB Tuesday, a SMaSH Blonde, and I took a pre boil reading and totally forgot to record it in the software so some good that does me for figuring out my efficiency. All I know is I beat my numbers... Oh well live and learn!

 

[Sunfire96]

Very helpful. Do you cool the wort to 70f or so before taking gravity?

For the 30 min mash check, I put a stainless steel sieve in the top of the mash (the block the grains), draw a sample with a turkey baster into a 100 mL graduated cylinder for my hydrometer reading. I put the sample in the freezer to make sure it's below 100F before reading (and I use the hydrometer temperature correction calc found below).

To calculate OG after the boil, I draw my sample immediately after flameout (and the sample goes into the freezer before reading). I don't add water post boil, so I usually use that as my OG reading, instead of drawing a sample once the wort is chilled to pitch temp. (Unless someone has good reasoning for the gravity changing based on wort expansion/shrinkage?) If I remembered to sanitize the baster/cylinder/hydrometer/thermometer, then I put the sample back in post chill. If not, then I taste it before dumping.

Hope this was helpful! I don't love my mash setup right now. Mostly, I'm frustrated with the sub-60% mash extraction batches, but the beer still tastes like beer and the yeasts seem happy cheers!

 

[Semper Sitientum]

A question regarding double milling. If grain is run through a second time with the same gap, how is a finer crush achieved?

 

[Mark Farrall]

Some of it is, as it'll hit the rollers at different angles. Some will also get the husk completely, or nearly completely, removed as they go through the second time. Then there's also less chance of one getting through without being split.

I'm guessing it's not as effective as a smaller gap though. Even though that sounds like confirmation bias to me as I have to justify that mill purchase.

 

[Semper Sitientum]

Same here. My LHBS’s mill is set to .040 and not sure how often it’s calibrated. I purchased a mill and do .030 which works good. Thinking about going a little finer as an experiment. I do BIAB.