- Joined
- Mar 31, 2021
- Messages
- 3,281
- Reaction score
- 5,152
- Points
- 113
Do you refill the little cylinder with a larger one?
Show your DIY Projects
- Thread starter DanC
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2012
- Messages
- 2,637
- Reaction score
- 4,141
- Points
- 113
The sink!!!!!
- Joined
- May 10, 2019
- Messages
- 1,174
- Reaction score
- 2,672
- Points
- 113
I tried that once , not too successful. Went back to the sporting goods store to get it filled. I think I got 17 ounces in the 20 ounce bottle.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2021
- Messages
- 3,281
- Reaction score
- 5,152
- Points
- 113
You have to turn a normal co2 tank upsidedown to get the liquid to transfer.
Release is signed, money on it's way back to me. I'm out the cost of the inspections, but a lot better than finding out I was looking at $100K or more to fix the place up after I bought it. My agent got diddly squat except a bunch of work, and I'm pretty sure it turned out the same way for the seller's agent. However, now they have a long list of safety issues that MUST be disclosed on the property. They really should have come down on their price enough to null out their debt on it, and call it even. A lot better than the cash they'll dump into it to make it sellable now. However, it's not in an incorporated area, so someone with deeper pockets will snatch it up and figure out some tax loophole so that we the tax payers wind up paying for it. Property speculating is a big business here, probably everywhere.
As for the life insurance thing, I surrendered 5 policies that weren't much more than a drain on me financially. If I'd kept my money in my pocket all those years, I'd probably have nearly what the policies were worth. So, no, not dead at all. Just old and cranky.
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2018
- Messages
- 9,078
- Reaction score
- 16,477
- Points
- 113
I don't, I bought this at the hardware store, it is an exchange program. This is for my setup at the trailer, I doubt that I will go through one bottle in a camping season.
Kitchen remodel under way. The missus has most of the progress pics, but I just finished installing canless flushmount LED fixtures. No more boobie lights. Gonna add one over the sink and a small recess that will be the result of removing the soffit except where wire routing precluded complete removal. Switching to 42” (ceiling height) upper cabinets and making some changes that will improve the ergonomics a bit. The refrigerator used to be where the recess is going to be, but we decided to swap sides of the kitchen to get the fridge away from heat producing appliances for better efficiency (especially since the freezer was on the stove side), and extend the working surface by the stove with more base cabinets. When I looked behind the suspended ceiling below the kitchen floor, I nearly had a heart attack. When the POs had the basement rooms built, they or their contractor cut chunks out of the kitchen floor joists to route the a/c duct, which could have been done without doing something so stupid. So, had to repair that before moving the fridge, lest we discover the fastest way to get a refrigerator to the basement.
All new cabinets to get rid of the stench of aging HDF and MDF panels. New stuff is all plywood or solid wood. No engineered wood (aka particle board) at all. These don’t appear to be original. I’m guessing the original installation included built in oven and range, but the POs gnawed the counter top out to put in a free standing range, which I’d rather have anyway. Dunno how old this stuff is, but it’s old Formica laminate on the counter tops. Got some significant wear in a few places, but Corning made some good stuff in the 70’s. Nary a chip, crack, or blister anywhere on the old tops
Gonna repurpose the old cabinets into the beer brewing shed which will be the next project. They’ll get sealed with epoxy paint to eliminate the smell of the masonite shelves and back, and I’ll replace the shelves with plywood. I have an old portable 12x20 shed for a starter. Gonna strip it down and rebuild to look like the tractor shed and the house.
Ceiling nearly ready for primer, but don’t want to paint it until the soffit is gone. We’ll prime the walls and ceiling while the upper cabinets are removed and make sure the walls are completely sealed. If a bug goes in this kitchen when I get done with it, he’s gonna have to use the door.
Removed the old door trim and casing going into the LR, and put a more modern and clean trimless finish on it. That has the added bonus of making it 3” wider a 1.5” higher, and gets rid of one of the worst dirt collectors in any house. If I could figure out how to install a bedroom door without trim, I’d do it just to eliminate the dirt collectors and extra painting labor.
Did I mention that I like low maintenance construction?
All new cabinets to get rid of the stench of aging HDF and MDF panels. New stuff is all plywood or solid wood. No engineered wood (aka particle board) at all. These don’t appear to be original. I’m guessing the original installation included built in oven and range, but the POs gnawed the counter top out to put in a free standing range, which I’d rather have anyway. Dunno how old this stuff is, but it’s old Formica laminate on the counter tops. Got some significant wear in a few places, but Corning made some good stuff in the 70’s. Nary a chip, crack, or blister anywhere on the old tops
Gonna repurpose the old cabinets into the beer brewing shed which will be the next project. They’ll get sealed with epoxy paint to eliminate the smell of the masonite shelves and back, and I’ll replace the shelves with plywood. I have an old portable 12x20 shed for a starter. Gonna strip it down and rebuild to look like the tractor shed and the house.
Ceiling nearly ready for primer, but don’t want to paint it until the soffit is gone. We’ll prime the walls and ceiling while the upper cabinets are removed and make sure the walls are completely sealed. If a bug goes in this kitchen when I get done with it, he’s gonna have to use the door.
Removed the old door trim and casing going into the LR, and put a more modern and clean trimless finish on it. That has the added bonus of making it 3” wider a 1.5” higher, and gets rid of one of the worst dirt collectors in any house. If I could figure out how to install a bedroom door without trim, I’d do it just to eliminate the dirt collectors and extra painting labor.
Did I mention that I like low maintenance construction?
Old upper cabinets gone. Most of the soffit gone. A couple more wiring mods and I can replace the sheet rock. The big patch over the stove was necessary because the idiots that wired the kitchen put the outlet for the microwave (above the stove) on the same circuit with the overhead lights. There was a separate circuit run for 4 counter top outlets (with no GFCI, but probably wasn’t required in 1975) but for some bizarre reason, that outlet was wired to the lights.
Ripped out the old wiring to the microwave outlet, fixed the “shortcut” through the soffit and put the microwave outlet on the same circuit with the counter top outlets. Also put a GFCI receptacle on the first outlet of the circuit. Added another LED fixture to the alcove below the part of the soffit I could not remove, and have the wiring ready for another above the sink when I get the sheet rock put back up.
Overall, considering the number of “bubbafications”, we’re moving along at a pretty good clip. I did not expect to have the cabinets down and soffit removed today. New cabinets should arrive tomorrow. Hoping to have the ceiling closed back up by game time on Saturday. Got some serious mudding and sanding to do before cabinets start going back up because the patching won’t be hidden by the new cabinets.
Gonna finish the top part before I start the bottom. Have pulled a couple of the bottom cabinets too, but avoiding shutting the kitchen down completely until we have the new sink and base on hand for installation.
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2012
- Messages
- 2,637
- Reaction score
- 4,141
- Points
- 113
That's an old one for sure. Rock wool insulation is really ooooooold!!
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2012
- Messages
- 2,637
- Reaction score
- 4,141
- Points
- 113
May want to consider looking at the R value.
You can get some high density insulation if you decide to change it
You can get some high density insulation if you decide to change it
The attic is blown rock wool. I’m probably going to have new stuff blown after I finish the remodeling and get the ceiling closed back up. I’ll have to make sure I don’t get idiots that cover the outside soffit vents and stop the airflow in summer. The bat in the wall is R11, according to the printing on the very brittle backing. Not worth tearing down all the sheet rock for a couple more digits, but I still have some R14 that I plan to use to replace what I’ve exposed. NONE of the walls were sealed behind the cabinets, so you can only imagine the mess from cockroaches (waterbug or wood roaches) coming and going at will. Thank the heavens it isn’t the little brown German roaches. There’s several spots where the old batting has settled leaving the top edge of the wall open. I had vinyl siding done about 8 years ago which included 1/2” thick underlayment, so some improvement done then. If I weren’t living here and was remodeling with a blank check, I’d GUT the house and start over, including replacing all the insulation, completely overhaul the electrical system and plumbing, etc. But we don’t have that kind of time or somewhere else to live in the meantime. I’ve already done a few things for efficiency. Double pane windows, ridge vent on the roof, siding with underlayment, new HVAC and water heater with better EER. I’d have to own this place a lot longer than I’ll live to get any significant ROI. As for the roaches, when I get done with the work, they’re gonna have to use the door like the rest of us do, and better get my permission (which of course will not be granted and will more likely be met with a blast from the Bug-a-Salt gun my stepdaughter gave last Xmas). All the activities seem to have already made the roaches realize they should be somewhere else. I’m not a very welcoming host to some uninvited visitors. The primary traffic appears to the wall behind the stove, which had several holes in it from lazy installation work as well as large gaps in the drywall from not being properly finished before installing the cabinets. Finishing is time consuming and expensive, I get it, and making a buck is the name of the game and n home construction. But I’m my grandfather’s grandson, and I go ballistic when I have to fix sloppy work that was done wrong to start with. He was a cabinet maker/carpenter, and I had the privilege of working with him between high school and college and got a lot of invaluable experience through his tutoring, strangely enough about the time this house was being built. The building trade was already in trouble then. Quality craftsmanship is truly a thing of the past in the building trade because of the pressure of profit margins. So it’s up to owners to fix the screwups left by poor craftsmanship and “blind” building inspectors. IF owners have any clue about what they’re looking at. The difference between “acceptable” and “right” ways of doing things is a very wide gap, and only seems to be getting wider.
Almost as old as me. Wait a minute, I was 18 when this was built.
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2017
- Messages
- 2,155
- Reaction score
- 4,570
- Points
- 113
I also had some weird wiring in my house (built 1952). They had almost half the house running on one 20 amp circuit and a few 15 amp circuits had almost nothing. Over the years I balanced the circuits as best I could and once we upgraded to a 100 amp circuit breaker panel (from a 60 amp fuse box) I gave each appliance it's own circuit. Now no more blown circuits because too many things pulling too much power on one circuit. @RoadRoach, so my only suggestion would be to put that microwave on it's own circuit if possible. And I have to say your pace is putting my kitchen remodel to shame! My only regret so far was trying to level the old floor with supposedly self-leveling compound. I only ripped out one layer of the floor and should have gone down another and replaced the subfloor. I left the original floor alone because it had 9"x9" asbestos tiles on it. As long as I wasn't sawing, drilling or grinding on them, I don't think it would have been too dangerous to rip them up. Well too late now, they are buried under 1/2" of cement. I pity the next person to replace that floor. I can hear them cursing me even now.
Yeah, I used some of that stuff when we originally started the kitchen remodel back in 2008 right after we remodeled the den/family room in 2007, when the missus's eldest was a senior in high school and we were planning empty nest. Empty nest wasn't in the cards, though. We wound up getting custody of three of my grandchildren, so basically a complete reset for us and another 20 year sentence of raising kids, and all home improvement projects shelved until further notice. I've had kids in my home since 1981. Love 'em all, but I'm ready for them all to live somewhere else.
So, considering we started in 2008, you may be a little bit ahead of me.
We had a 15 year hiatus because we got the grandkids in 2008, on the missus' birthday. She was supposed to get a brand-spankin' new Charger for her birthday. She got a 5 year old mini-van instead because we needed a people mover. Talk about a let-down ....... But I bought her a new Chevy Traverse in 2019. At one point, we had 8 people living in this house, 9 every other weekend (my youngest daughter). It's got a lotta rooms, but it really isn't a big house.We weren't planning on doing quite as much to the kitchen back then as we are now, but it's 15 years older and a lotta wear and tear on the minimal upgrades/repairs I did back then. I put all new hardware on the cabinets/drawers back then, and was prepping the floor for a quality vinyl when all hell broke loose with my eldest daughter. We got the kids on a temporary custody basis, and here we are 15 years later, still waiting for her to get her stuff in one sock, and stripping out everything we did in the kitchen back then. I just had to throw something down to seal the floor because we had a 5 year old, a 4 year old, and a 2 month old all of a sudden, and no time to work on the house. I've got the floor stripped to bare sub-floor, and have replaced at least 30% of the drywall because of crappy workmanship hidden by cabinets. We've scraped all the acoustic (popcorn) ceiling off and have it about 80% finished other than the patches for the soffit removals which I started today. There was a 1 inch gap in the sheetrock behind the cabinets in one corner. No wonder we constantly had roach invasions. They had way too many escape paths. No more. I'm sealing every sheetrock joint with caulk BEFORE we tape and mud it. The intention is to make sure the roaches have to knock on a door and ask my permission to come in. They can sneak into the walls from the outside if they want, but they ain't coming into the kitchen that way.
We've done several major projects together in the past 10 years. Replaced the deck out back, then one out front, had siding/windows/doors done by a contractor (BIG mistake) right after getting the roof done. In 2021, we built my tractor shed/shop from the ground up. We did every bit of it other than finishing the concrete slab. I even did the forms and reinforcing grid in it. Know how to finish concrete, but also know there are others that do that for a living and are a lot better at it than I am. I'll do small pads, etc, but not a 24 x 36 slab.
The building inspectors were not blind, they were drunk. A bottle of whisky was a surefire way to pass.
Took a minute to recognize it, but isn’t that a deer skinning gimbal? Works nice for a spreader bar.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2021
- Messages
- 3,281
- Reaction score
- 5,152
- Points
- 113
Yes it is.
$9 and rated for 1500 lbs
So, almost 800 gallons...Yes it is.
