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high tech fly sparge indicator.

2020-03-21 15.43.54.jpg
 
Have a look, even when I use paint strainer bags to hold back hop residue, the trub level gets into the spigot on my Speidels.
20200331_145044.jpg

Thinking of punching holes (have two of these), and adding spigots, what Y'all think? I can just tip it at the end when racking.
20200331_145430.jpg
 
Craigerrr said:
Have a look, even when I use paint strainer bags to hold back hop residue, the trub level gets into the spigot on my Speidels.
View attachment 9257
Thinking of punching holes (have two of these), and adding spigots, what Y'all think? I can just tip it at the end when racking.
View attachment 9258
Click to expand...
I had that issue with my Speidel as well. I just cap the bottom and use an auto siphon. Not very DIY, I know, but I try and do as little as possible. :oops:
 
I've got the same problem for any dry hopped beer. I just bag them and increase the hopping rate a bit. I sometimes have to swirl the fermenter if the bag gets pulled into the hollow for the tap.

Though I forgot that last night and I'm not looking forward to the transfer for that beer. Probably have to fall back to the auto-syphon.
 
Megary said:
I had that issue with my Speidel as well. I just cap the bottom and use an auto siphon. Not very DIY, I know, but I try and do as little as possible. :oops:
Click to expand...
I too have been using the auto syphon, way to fussy of a process for me. I plan to be brewing frequently in the coming weeks, like as soon as they are free I plan to fill them up type of thing. Once I get stocked up on beer, I think I will consider trying this. Even if I have to up my batch size a half gallon to hit my package volume, I think it will beat using the auto syphon.
 
Craigerrr said:
I too have been using the auto syphon, way to fussy of a process for me. I plan to be brewing frequently in the coming weeks, like as soon as they are free I plan to fill them up type of thing. Once I get stocked up on beer, I think I will consider trying this. Even if I have to up my batch size a half gallon to hit my package volume, I think it will beat using the auto syphon.
Click to expand...
Those things look beefy as hell. Would they hold enough pressure to do pressure transfer?
 
Craigerrr said:
Have a look, even when I use paint strainer bags to hold back hop residue, the trub level gets into the spigot on my Speidels.
View attachment 9257
Thinking of punching holes (have two of these), and adding spigots, what Y'all think? I can just tip it at the end when racking.
View attachment 9258
Click to expand...
Im not a fussy brewer so take this as you may.
My method when brewing in a bucket and transfering through tap was cold crash for a.couple of days really compacts the trub. When you take gravity sample open the tap full this will draw out any trub caught in the tap then hook the transfer hose on and run the tap half open nice and slow.

I found a pretty clean transfer this way.
 
Trialben said:
Im not a fussy brewer so take this as you may.
My method when brewing in a bucket and transfering through tap was cold crash for a.couple of days really compacts the trub. When you take gravity sample open the tap full this will draw out any trub caught in the tap then hook the transfer hose on and run the tap half open nice and slow.

I found a pretty clean transfer this way.
Click to expand...
That makes sense Ben, I will give that a try, will report back Friday.

Sorry, kind of derailed this thread, back to your regularly scheduled DIY programming
 
Craigerrr said:
That makes sense Ben, I will give that a try, will report back Friday.

Sorry, kind of derailed this thread, back to your regularly scheduled DIY programming
Click to expand...
Hey but to be honest that tap/spigot is pretty low on that fermentor so like i said take it as is. Crashing should help though if you dont already.
 
thunderwagn said:
Those things look beefy as hell. Would they hold enough pressure to do pressure transfer?
Click to expand...
They can hold a PSI or two. I've got a couple of the ball lock attachments that Craig was mentioning. Put the gas on the top at 1-2 PSI and connect the liquid at the bottom then basically rely on gravity to fill the keg and the gas to keep the atmosphere out as the fermenter empties. Works well as long as I've remembered to bag the dry hop.
 
My simple steam removal system, this isn't showing every thing but basically at the top is a strong blower, I set it on low, the top of the tee has a screen which helps drop water down, the kettle top needs to be cracked a bit, some water makes it through, haven't worked that out yet but the air in and out is very touchy, too much air and it cools the wort down

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When faced with the same problem, I opened the basement door.... :D
 
So tried exploratory run of pressure transfer.
20200405_091508.jpg

Used @J A 's idea and tweeked it a little. Did have trouble getting a seal on light lid and clamps. Other than that worked ok. Need to play with fittings and hoses but the Chapman kettle did ok. If it dosen't smooth out i guess i have a new bigger mash tun.
 
Head First said:
So tried exploratory run of pressure transfer.
View attachment 9363
Used @J A 's idea and tweeked it a little. Did have trouble getting a seal on light lid and clamps. Other than that worked ok. Need to play with fittings and hoses but the Chapman kettle did ok. If it dosen't smooth out i guess i have a new bigger mash tun.
Click to expand...
Nice! Been doing something similar with my Brew Bucket for the past year. I put my keg on a scale so I can tell when it’s about full.
 
Vi fu
Group W said:
Nice! Been doing something similar with my Brew Bucket for the past year. I put my keg on a scale so I can tell when it’s about full.
Click to expand...
The scale is a good idea. I watched the condensation on the keg but had to peek near full.
 
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