Q1 2021 Community Recipe by HighVoltageMan!

Discussion in 'Brewer’s Friend Community Recipe Discussion' started by Sunfire96, Jan 10, 2021.

  1. Trialben

    Trialben Well-Known Member

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    Amen that's what I expierienced with that yeast nice big krausen also it can handle a pretty cool ferment down to I think 12c off the top of my head. And yup gave the Kolsch a crisp tartness.
    Must be one of those low final PH yeasts I hear you talk of ?
     
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  2. HighVoltageMan!

    HighVoltageMan! Well-Known Member

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    Yup.
     
  3. Hawkbox

    Hawkbox Well-Known Member

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    I'll take a run at this on the weekend.
     
  4. 56 Firedome

    56 Firedome Active Member

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    Wow HVM, I'm looking forward to this recipe. A lb of hops in 5 gal. Almost all in the WP. I'm off to LHBS tomorrow. We have a couple of 50 F days coming this week so I'll start assembling my knock down outdoor rig. Probably strike fire on Wednesday.
    I've never used Mosaic but Citra is an old friend.
     
  5. AHarper

    AHarper Well-Known Member

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    #45 AHarper, Jan 12, 2021
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2021
    I haven't brewed the beer yet but I have done the label!
    The Hops may change but the rest will stay the same. Recognise the man?

    upload_2021-1-12_17-3-48.png
     
  6. Sunfire96

    Sunfire96 Well-Known Member

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    Tesla, nice
    Edit: Think you maybe misspelled Wayner?
     
  7. AHarper

    AHarper Well-Known Member

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    #47 AHarper, Jan 12, 2021
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2021
    Yup you are right... into edit mode

    I obviously have too much time on my hands but we are in lockdown here and the weather is crap so I couldn't brew today... but tomorrow....
     
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  8. 56 Firedome

    56 Firedome Active Member

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    @High Voltage Man! I was reviewing the Recipe before a trip to LHBS when I noticed the Dry Hop was at 7 Deg F. Is that a typo? I don't have any equipment that could do that. Was hat supposed to 70 Deg?
    Can't wait to brew this beer. Thanks for offering it.
     
  9. Donoroto

    Donoroto Well-Known Member

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    OK, more questions @HighVoltageMan! , none Earth-shattering:
    1. I have neither a pH meter nor Lactic acid. Just let it fly? I can go get some Lactic if you think it matters. I will probably just go get it regardless; near-by and inexpensive.
    2. I do have Phosphoric acid; are you saying if I add it, the pH will increase? Pretty sure that what you meant. Very odd, I wonder about that myself. Any chemists* out there? Also, if I make no acid adjustments pre-boil, will accurate flavor suffer?
    3. My normal process in the Brewzilla 35 is continuous recirculation in the mash, with a 170 F batch sparge at the end as a sort of mash-out, as well as to get up to my needed pre-boil volume. Should I avoid recirculation for the first 60-ish minutes? Or just go ahead and recirc as usual?
    4. When we say High Voltage, do we mean something like 69 kV or really high voltage?

    Comment: This recipe sounds absolutely wonderful. I have all the ingredients already. Spending a huge percentage of the cost on hops is different for me, but I think it'll end up worth it. About $2 a pint for 5 gallons, but I'll have a few ounces of leftover Mosaic.
     
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  10. HighVoltageMan!

    HighVoltageMan! Well-Known Member

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    Love the label! Tesla was one strange dude, but a complete genius. The owe the modern electrical 3 phase grid to that man. His impact on the modern world is way underestimated.
     
  11. HighVoltageMan!

    HighVoltageMan! Well-Known Member

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    Typo, for sure. 62-68F for 3 days.
     
  12. HighVoltageMan!

    HighVoltageMan! Well-Known Member

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    #52 HighVoltageMan!, Jan 12, 2021
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2021
    1. The mash almost always lands at 5.5-5.6 in the mash. No need for acid there. I’ve done this so many times I just check the pH to make sure I hit my numbers. So I add 1 tsp of 85% phosphoric acid to the sparge water. Then I usually add @ 3/4 to 1 tsp of phosphoric acid to the boil. The ph lands @ 5.1 post boil. If your phosphoric acid is 85% strength you can use that. Most HB stores sell 10% strength, but sell 88% lactic acid. So if your phosphoric acid is a lower strength, just sub 88% lactic acid. If your doing a no sparge you can add @ 1-1/2 tsp to the boil and call it good. Low pH is way better than high. That’s all assuming you use RO water and the salt additions in the recipe. 5 gallon batch too.

    2. When I use phosphoric acid to adjust the pre-boil pH, the pH will rise slightly during the boil. If I start at 5.0, the boil almost always ends up at 5.1. Lactic acid will drop ever so slightly during the boil. I’m not a chemist, so I’m not sure why this is the case.

    3. I recirculate during the entire mash, I shut the pump off and then sparge.

    4. I work for a transmission power coop. I don’t work on the conductors, but on the fiber optic in the static wire (on top). I work around voltages from 69kV to 345kV. Sometimes working around it, it’s hard not to stain your shorts. Thankfully, I don’t have to be around it much.

    This is not a cheap beer to brew, but the results are really nice. I can’t buy this beer commercially, so I brew it. It’s still cheaper than buying it in a pub.
     
  13. AHarper

    AHarper Well-Known Member

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    #53 AHarper, Jan 12, 2021
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2021
    @HighVoltageMan! I too have a question and it relates to the Carbonation levels.
    Your original CO2 levels for the 5 Gallon version are 4.04 and that was for a Keg
    upload_2021-1-12_17-45-32.png

    When I scaled it down for my 20lt version the carbonation rate remained the same
    upload_2021-1-12_17-52-1.png

    But when selecting Table sugar - so I can use bottles the carbonation level remained accordingly high,
    This may be a quirk in the Recipe Editor (and I may have to post this problem, if there is one, elsewhere) but if I put that level of carbonation into bottles I suspect they blow up in my face. I have cider with that problem and I can only get 30% of the contents into a glass - and I'd hate to waste this beer.

    What recommendation do you have for bottling? I would have thought 2 to 2.5 but you may have a reason for the higher level other than just because you are kegging (I have no experience of Kegs).

    Changing the CO2 to 2.5 Volumes DOES alter the sugar level accordingly so no problem there but is the 4 Vols significant? I wouldn't have thought so but just making sure.
     
  14. HighVoltageMan!

    HighVoltageMan! Well-Known Member

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    I believe that’s a default setting the recipe builder, I never changed it. 4.0 is way too high, you’re right about the carbonation level. It should be 2-2.5 volumes. Sorry about the confusion. I keg my beers and carbonate to taste, so I really don’t know the exact number, but 2.5 would be the highest.
     
  15. Donoroto

    Donoroto Well-Known Member

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    Perfect, and thank you. I am really looking forward to tasting this in a week and a half!

    Agreed: The cost of building the pub alone would exceed $2 a pint, easily...
    (Oh, and at $2 it is still way less costly than most anything worth drinking)
     
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  16. Josh Hughes

    Josh Hughes Well-Known Member

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    I’m just now learning to add stuff to the mash for ph and minerals. So you guys mess with it after the boil too? I have a LONG way to go haha. Be fun drinking all the way there
     
  17. BarbarianBrewer

    BarbarianBrewer Well-Known Member

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    Like Josh I only add minerals and adjust the pH in the mash but not the boil. I've never heard what benefit adjusting pH during the boil does. Anyone care to explain?
     
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  18. Josh Hughes

    Josh Hughes Well-Known Member

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    Well when I brew Saturday I will. Never had before.
     
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  19. HighVoltageMan!

    HighVoltageMan! Well-Known Member

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    The ph rises during the lauter after the mash. Most home brewers watch the pH in the mash and think that’s it. The pH should be watch through the entire process; mash, boil and fermenter. The most important pH is at pitch. Lighter beers should be at 5.2 or lower, darker beers tend to be higher, 5.3-5.4. The yeast will excrete acids during fermentation to drop the pH of the beer. This not only helps the yeast to respirate (bring nutrients in and co2/alcohol out of cell) but it also benefits the beer. At 5.2 most yeast will be able to excrete acid they need to have a healthy fermentation. High pH on lighter beers like IPA/PA will cause the beer to have a harsh bitterness/mouthfeel, malt flavors can be dull or reduced. Each strain of yeast has a sweet spot for its finished pH. Kolsch yeast can go down as low as 3.9, while Chico strains can be as high as 4.6. The same wort fermented with these 2 yeast will produce vastly different beers with a different pH.

    The bottom line is that the pitch pH should be between 5-5.2 for lighter beers. The yeast will do the rest. Sometimes the pH rises too much after dry hopping and what was once a nice beer, is now rough. The pH can be adjust post fermentation, but the acid additions can’t be so much that the acid can make the beer have a tart finish.

    The finish pH of the beer has a big impact on the overall quality and getting a handle on it will improve the overall beer.
     
  20. AHarper

    AHarper Well-Known Member

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    Well I didn't know that... I have a whole new area of chemistry to read up on - well I have nothing else to do lol - but it will be worth it I'm sure.
    Out comes my pH meter more often....
     
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