Maybe time to take the next step with the homebrew gear.

I will admit I do like my 220v Brewzilla 35.

Food for thought: What is the advantage of a three roll mill over a two roll mill? Answer that for yourself before buying something.
 
I will admit I do like my 220v Brewzilla 35.

Food for thought: What is the advantage of a three roll mill over a two roll mill? Answer that for yourself before buying something.
Yeah, the Brewzilla is one of the options I'm considering. I've got 220 out here in the shop, so just a matter of adding a receptacle.

Not sure how I'm going to answer 2-roll versus 3-roll unless someone out there has had both and can give me some idea if there's ANY real difference. 2-roll seems to be most common, but I've seen some 3-roll stuff around the same price range. I'm of the school of thought that all a 3-roll can do is crush twice (two of the rollers will always be pushing into the gap). Crushed grain is only gonna come out between one pair, so at max, a double crush in one step. Not sure that's a huge gain considering @Zambezi Special 's reply. Two buckets will be required whether 2-roll or 3-roll. I do 5 gallon batches, so I'm guessing nearly double the time she said to double crush. Looks like a 2-roll is the direction to go. So maybe I CAN answer the question. o_O
 
Advantage is that it double crushes in one pass. Both Roller are set to two different depths
Didn't realize (though it makes perfect sense) that they could be gapped differently. That would take the 2nd pass out, and the re-gapping between passes. If the rollers aren't moved between passes, I'm assuming the 2nd pass is to make up for flex in the rolls, especially if the mill isn't being re-adjusted between crushes. So, there's ONE advantage.
 
I don't readjust the rollers for the second pass and grain comes out great. Plus it is the same from batch to batch , something you can't say from the local supplier.
The second pass takes about two swigs on a cold one to complete.
 
I'm not sure if the 2nd pass is necessary, but I have good results with it. And as
@west1m says, it takes no time at all.
 
I have a 35L Brewzilla, but not the new Gen 4. I really like it
 
The "L" part is about a 30 minute drive, depending on traffic. He's a good guy and all, but also a beer judge (accreditations unknown to me), and tends to be very opinionated about a lot of things. Saying 'conical fermenter' around him will get you a good lecture, and though my eyes tell me I'm making cleaner beer, he tells me I'm wrong and rants about how I'm ruining the beer by removing the trub for diacetyl rest. I see krausen and trub as something the yeast didn't want, so how is that going to make the beer any better?. Don't even THINK about saying 'cold-crashing' or "BIAB" to him. Maybe that's part of my justification for getting a mill and just ordering ingredients. I think I've learned what he's willing to teach, and simply don't want to endure more [unsolicited] criticism about what I want to try. I'm finding it more comfortable to go in there knowing EXACTLY what I want, or even sending him an e-mail with a list so I can just pop in, pick it up, and leave. I probably won't completely stop using his shop completely, but I'm certainly not going to discuss my brewing with him much more. I have no problem with criticism or opinion, IF I ask for it. Using his shop will likely be to obtain something I don't have and don't want to wait for.

He will indeed crush anything I ask for, and provide any ingredients I ask for, for the most part. He does, however, tend to substitute things that he doesn't have without a lot of asking, which suddenly just completely changed the target I was aiming at. Thus, the morphing of @Bulin's Milker Bucket Brews Three Day Weekend into what I brew. The point is, I wind up making what he wants me to make, not what I intended to make. Substitution isn't necessarily a bad thing, unless it's not what was wanted. I go in there ready to pay for what I get, and often leave with something totally different that cost just as much or more.

When I said 'kit' I was referring to the aggregate of ingredients for a brew. Whether I buy a list of ingredients from the LHBS, or a kit from Brewer's Best, I call it a 'kit' if it's just enough stuff for one batch. The only difference is one of them comes in a shiny box with more literal instructions for the brewing, and there are a lot fewer iterations of recipes from BB than I can get from him. But I daresay there's a lot more recipes on this site than I can get from him. It's why I paid for membership, as well as to get the advice I solicit, or I just read until I find what I'm looking for. In this case, yep, I'm asking for summaries of what some do to better inform myself.

So far, my take on having a mill is that a 2-roll mill is fine, though running the grist through twice may be required, according to some opinions. Knowing how they work, I can see a 3-roll mill being (some?) better than a 2-roll mill, but not enough to warrant the bigger investment. I'll take the difference and use it for an electric one (don't have to get the drill out). But I had to ask. Wider mills will process more grain, obviously, however, the rolls will also flex and affect the grist size / efficiency. I'm not in a hurry anyway, but I don't think I want to stand there hand-cranking 8 pounds of base malt through one of those things. Electric drive, it will be. I would likely do what Josh does, and make up a grain bill earlier and store it in the vittles boxes in the fridge until ready to use it. That might make me improve at planning the next brew, too. So yep, storage boxes were already on the agenda, and the missus gets some good ones that I'd likely use. That was never a question. I live in Alabama where the humidity is often higher than the temperature. EVERYTHING here gets damp and will mold unless it's kept dry. Storing anything in a sack here is asking for mold. I already know it's gotta be kept dry, real dry. I've considered tossing desiccant packets in the grain containers, similar to what is used in jerky packets. Any thoughts?

As for malt quantity, I'm thinking something like 50 lbs or so for base malt, split between pils and ale as you say @Trialben, and then just order the specialty grains I need when I want something I don't already have in a quantity suitable for keeping a little in inventory. I've already noticed the site has an inventory system, but haven't looked at it much as far as features. That should at least be a benchmark for helping me keep everything straight and know when to use up whatever grains I have in inventory. I'm not too shabby with Excel and Access, so there's no reason I couldn't build my own inventory system with one or the other. Otherwise, stickers on the containers to show me the date stuff was bought and what it is will have to do. Controlling and recording inventory will let me get a better idea of batch costs, too. I've only ever purchased ingredients for a single batch which the LHBS does not itemize, so I have no idea what I'm spending on what. It isn't as much about saving tons of money as it is about knowing more about what I'm spending it on. For that matter, I use Quicken, so it would be easy to call out everything I spend for brewing if I just set up the categories.

Already planned on keeping the hops frozen. Plenty freezer space for that. Yeast, well, I even keep the dry yeast in the fridge. It'll push the expiry date some if it's kept cool. Not much choice in the matter with liquid yeast. I also occasionally re-pitch when I happen to be making a brew that uses the same yeast or back-to-back batches, but rarely do I ever plan a brew based on what yeast I have in the mason jars, so a lot of it goes bad. I'm also thinking about exploring the preservation in glycerin idea, too, but one thing at a time. I could certainly utilize equipment to make starters. I've NEVER had a batch that didn't benefit from a good starter. I already keep a few pounds of DME on hand for that.

This is more about better organizing and improving my processes, understanding the costs better, and being ready to brew without having to go get ingredients. I would be more likely to brew something I have all the ingredients for than to wait for an order to come in, but I'm not really in that big a hurry. I officially joined the old fart's club last month (turned 65) and I'm retired, so I refuse to hurry for anything.

Thanks for all the info, folks. Keep it coming. I overthink things a lot and try to make sure I get the right thing. Impulse buying can get expensive. Less hasty decisions often wind up being the best ones.
The substitution thing would piss me off. If you don't have it and need to substitute it, call me first. Let me make the decision.
 
The substitution thing would piss me off. If you don't have it and need to substitute it, call me first. Let me make the decision.
Yeah, I let him get away with it a couple of times, so now he just does it automatically. My fault as much as his for being impatient, and not being quite as adamant on details as I should be. If I start buying what I want and stocking it, no one to blame but myself if I have to substitute.
 
I'm not sure if the 2nd pass is necessary, but I have good results with it. And as
@west1m says, it takes no time at all.
I can see where it may seem a little redundant to grind twice, but I've also been around mills and stuff long enough between living on a farm as a kid as well as in my career as an engineer to know that rolls flex, even if they are high quality steel. They either flex, or they break. Some grains are harder than other grains, without a doubt, and what goes through the middle of the rollers may not get crushed quite as fine as what goes through the ends near the bearings. Anything that was cracked enough make it through should just fall through leaving only what needs another 'bite' to crack it. Can't see it making much more flour.
 
I can see where it may seem a little redundant to grind twice, but I've also been around mills and stuff long enough between living on a farm as a kid as well as in my career as an engineer to know that rolls flex, even if they are high quality steel. They either flex, or they break. Some grains are harder than other grains, without a doubt, and what goes through the middle of the rollers may not get crushed quite as fine as what goes through the ends near the bearings. Anything that was cracked enough make it through should just fall through leaving only what needs another 'bite' to crack it. Can't see it making much more flour.
Mill fine as you can with BIAB will not hurt a thing. When I was ordering mine milled I got 4-5% higher efficiency with double milled. Since I bought my mill I’m at least 5% higher than the typical grind I was getting
 
Mill fine as you can with BIAB will not hurt a thing. When I was ordering mine milled I got 4-5% higher efficiency with double milled. Since I bought my mill I’m at least 5% higher than the typical grind I was getting
As mentioned, he's a beer judge of some qualifications and associations, but which and what I don't know. I'm sure that keeping the mill 'tuned' is part of his routine, but I've never seen him doing it. However, he does grind his own grain there in his shop. If he's using it for himself as a beer judge .....

How do you gap your mill? Feeler gauges? Does a gap-gauge come with it?

I've yet to really delve into efficiency/utilization other than a casual glance and guestimate. I can see that higher efficiency in no-sparge or batch sparge operations (I use the latter) would be preferable as there is less efficency than fly sparging, and less time in the mashing stage if sparging can be eliminated. I also recirculate while mashing to help control mash temperature as well as increase efficiency. The pump was a game changer, certainly. I always try to remember to taste the spent grains to get some idea of how much sugars I'm sending to the compost instead of fermenting. I guess it ferments out there too, but doesn't do me any favors, LOL. The armadillos are quite happy with me, though.
 
As mentioned, he's a beer judge of some qualifications and associations, but which and what I don't know. I'm sure that keeping the mill 'tuned' is part of his routine, but I've never seen him doing it. However, he does grind his own grain there in his shop. If he's using it for himself as a beer judge .....

How do you gap your mill? Feeler gauges? Does a gap-gauge come with it?

I've yet to really delve into efficiency/utilization other than a casual glance and guestimate. I can see that higher efficiency in no-sparge or batch sparge operations (I use the latter) would be preferable as there is less efficency than fly sparging, and less time in the mashing stage if sparging can be eliminated. I also recirculate while mashing to help control mash temperature as well as increase efficiency. The pump was a game changer, certainly. I always try to remember to taste the spent grains to get some idea of how much sugars I'm sending to the compost instead of fermenting. I guess it ferments out there too, but doesn't do me any favors, LOL. The armadillos are quite happy with me, though.
You can use feeler gauge or calipers. I have found that if a credit card goes through undamaged. It's just right. :D

Never seen one that came with any calibration info or tools
 
As mentioned, he's a beer judge of some qualifications and associations
I wouldn't put too much stock in the beer judge thing. I know some beer judges who can't brew very well. You know the old saying "Those who can't brew, judge".

As far as the mill, I went from a 2 roller to a 3 roller, the first stage or roller is fixed, the second gap is adjustable. I also wet mill (I believe Craigerrr does too). The wet milling allows for a really tight roller gap on the second pass. I believe I set it to @ .020" and it comes out beautiful. Less dust and the husks remain intact. I set my mill with business cards and a caliper. Just stack them and measure it with a caliper.

If you use a two roller, European malt is a little more plump than North American malt, so the the Euro grain needs a wider gap for a first pass and then narrow the gap for a second pass. The North American malt usually needs only one pass. It's a simpler process with a 3 roll mill when dealing with European malt.
 
I wouldn't put too much stock in the beer judge thing. I know some beer judges who can't brew very well. You know the old saying "Those who can't brew, judge".

As far as the mill, I went from a 2 roller to a 3 roller, the first stage or roller is fixed, the second gap is adjustable. I also wet mill (I believe Craigerrr does too). The wet milling allows for a really tight roller gap on the second pass. I believe I set it to @ .020" and it comes out beautiful. Less dust and the husks remain intact. I set my mill with business cards and a caliper. Just stack them and measure it with a caliper.

If you use a two roller, European malt is a little more plump than North American malt, so the the Euro grain needs a wider gap for a first pass and then narrow the gap for a second pass. The North American malt usually needs only one pass. It's a simpler process with a 3 roll mill when dealing with European malt.
Yeah, it seems if someone wants to do anything different from what he does, they're WRONG! Well, maybe not.

You've just answered my question about the 3-roll mill. If only one roll is adjustable, that's simpler, and if the first gap is fixed and wide enough for both, then yeah, no adjustment necessary. With a 2-roll, if I'm set for European malts, that's gonna kill the efficiency on American malts. Got it. Now I'm fully informed. Exactly what I needed, someone that's had both.

That's one decision made, I think.:confused:
 
You can use feeler gauge or calipers. I have found that if a credit card goes through undamaged. It's just right. :D

Never seen one that came with any calibration info or tools
Mine came with a measuring set :)
 
Since moving to Eugene, I bought my own 2-roller grain mill. My mill has setting marks for the gap. According to my old lhbs in Anaheim, where they used to crush my grains, their mill gap was set to 0.025 inch for BIAB. I have set my mill gap <0.025 inch (~0.020?), and do a single pass to get a pretty fine crush with plenty of flour. I just ran 5.25 pounds of grain through hand cranking, and finished in under 5 minutes. My batch size is 2.5 gallons.
 
Mine is set as far as it will go :)
@RoadRoach he can sell more grain if he doesn’t grind as fine. I also be even if he’s a judge he doesn’t know how the beers he judges were milled @Donoroto told me when I got mine to use rice hulls, that keep things flowing in the mash bag. I have experienced no issues with tannins or anything, that’s more of a PH thing.
 
Mine is set as far as it will go :)
@RoadRoach he can sell more grain if he doesn’t grind as fine. I also be even if he’s a judge he doesn’t know how the beers he judges were milled @Donoroto told me when I got mine to use rice hulls, that keep things flowing in the mash bag. I have experienced no issues with tannins or anything, that’s more of a PH thing.
Rice Hulls can be a life saver. More so when you have flake added
 

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