Maybe time to take the next step with the homebrew gear.

RoadRoach

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My LHBS has raised pricing some on recipe kits, probably to the point where it's time to consider bulk buying of ingredients and a little more equipment. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Last two recipes cost me nearly $100. I can buy a lotta craft beer for $100.

1. How much malt should I possibly stock, for average brewing cycles of 1-2 brews per month? 5 gallon batches, normally with about 6-8 lbs of base malt per brew.

2. Malt mill recommendations: 2-roller, 3-roller, or grist type mill. What's your preference, and why? I see different pros and cons in each type, but am leaning towards the roller type because of the destruction of the chaff by grist type mills. I've got a feeling that would more easily release tannins while mashing, where otherwise whole husks would not, and would act as a better filter.

3. New mash tun, with false bottom, maybe even electric so I can better control mashing temperature and avoid stuck mashe. Recommendations? Maybe something I can use later when/if I decide to switch to BIAB processes.

I know the initial costs will take a while to recover but can't help thinking buying base malts in bulk and grinding them myself would be smarter and less expensive, and then just ordering specialty malts as I need them. I should probably consider getting some hops and yeast stocks too, though buying that fresh is typically a good idea, too.
 
1. Zero. If LHBS us truly L, just visit when you need more. Exception: hops are cheaper by the pound. A little freezer space is the cost.
2. If lhbs has a mill, you don't really need one.
3. Biab and all-grain are very similar, but one is messier. Get yerself a big pot, a bag that doesn't hit the bottom (or make a false bottom. It's not rocket science).

If you got the itch to spend money, buy a hot liquor tank and a way to circulate that hot water in your mash tun. Maybe a way to make it hot, too.
 
Why do you need a kit? Buy yeast. Buy grain per your own recipe ( they should mill it for you), buy hops. BIAB is easy. My homebrew store has been around for 40 years and is super cheap, but I can buy two packets of liquid yeast and still only spend $40 if I order online with my coupon and go pick it up. That is for 5 gallons. The only thing you need for BIAB is a big kettle, a bag, and a way to lift said bag and the water out of the kettle after mashing. If you have a burner that sits low to the ground, that can be done with a pulley that you can buy off of Amazon and a ladder.
I initally had mashing issues because of using a cheap camp stove on an uneven surface with more weight that should have been on it. BIAB with a Blichmann that sits low to the ground and that has adjustments for a 16 gallon kettle is awesome. My last two beers have been two of my favorites. I hit mash temps dead on for both. My strike water calculator worked very well. It was so damn cold for the first one that I added 2 degrees, and it was a good decision.
The two things you will need to work out with BIAB: 1. is the crush consistant? My efficiency sucks, but the crush from the HB store is consistant. I can plan for that. 2. Setting your efficiency so you can build a recipe.
 
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Roadie the brew I'm doing today poor man's GF will cost me $10 Australian yeah I had to malt the grain myself.
But this is where you can go by doing a few tweeks to make brewing cheaper.

I re use my yeast for generations I buy yeast once or twice a year

An ale strain a lager strain and saison have been my go too.

A grain mill three roller two roller doesn't matter its essential in my books to maintaining consistency in the brew house and of course storing un cracked malt by the sack at your home.

Vittle vaults as Josh has are vermin proof very important leave out some grains and you'll get rats not only that buy in the warmer more humid months grain wevels and such.

I'm with Don on the big pot and a bag you already have the pot just get a bag.

I used to buy a sack of pilsner malt and one of Ale.

Id buy the Munich and Vienna buy the 5kg lots

and specialty by the kg

after a few grain buys you end up with a nice array of specially malts on hand.

With hops I buy my bittering in bulk then the specialty hops when on sale and by the 100g.

Good luck
 
1.I buy in bulk. I keep up to 150-200 pounds , but usually I have at least a100 pounds around. Malt can last up to 2 years if you get it fresh, or just figure 18 months. I keep them in 5 gallon buckets with snap on lids. Each bucket holds 25 pounds. The buckets stack nicely too. I save a boat load compared to kits.
2. Don’t worry about getting tannins from too fine of a crush. Tannin extraction is driven mostly by a pH over 5.8-6.0.
3. What type of mash tun? That’s up to you. I like my system I built, but if I started with BIAB, it’s likely I would make that work for me.

I don’t brew to save money, but keeping costs down does make good sense. If I really wanted to save money, I’d stop drinking beer.
 
My LHBS has raised pricing some on recipe kits, probably to the point where it's time to consider bulk buying of ingredients and a little more equipment. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Last two recipes cost me nearly $100. I can buy a lotta craft beer for $100.

1. How much malt should I possibly stock, for average brewing cycles of 1-2 brews per month? 5 gallon batches, normally with about 6-8 lbs of base malt per brew.

as long as you keep the grain dry and cool, protect it from bugs, it will keep a long time! buy 25-50 lb sacks of base malts for the cheapest price. for the specialty grains I ussualy buy a couple pounds at a time and then keep them in these.

Containers
2. Malt mill recommendations: 2-roller, 3-roller, or grist type mill. What's your preference, and why? I see different pros and cons in each type, but am leaning towards the roller type because of the destruction of the chaff by grist type mills. I've got a feeling that would more easily release tannins while mashing, where otherwise whole husks would not, and would act as a better filter.

I have a simple 2 roller that gets the job done. it was a hand crank version. you can use a drill to speed up the process. I do run the grain through twice and that does seem to help improve efficency a little.

this basically what I have. had it for 5 years or so. still works great
3. New mash tun, with false bottom, maybe even electric so I can better control mashing temperature and avoid stuck mashe. Recommendations? Maybe something I can use later when/if I decide to switch to BIAB processes.

honestly, I would go for a BIAB before a traditional mash tun setup. its easier to use and you wont need a seperate mash tun, since the boil kettle is where you mash.
I know the initial costs will take a while to recover but can't help thinking buying base malts in bulk and grinding them myself would be smarter and less expensive, and then just ordering specialty malts as I need them. I should probably consider getting some hops and yeast stocks too, though buying that fresh is typically a good idea, too.

I ussualy keep a couple packets of dry yeast on hand, but for liquid I always buy as needed. they go bad too quickly.
 
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Why do you need a kit? Buy yeast. Buy grain per your own recipe ( they should mill it for you), buy hops. BIAB is easy. My homebrew store has been around for 40 years and is super cheap, but I can buy two packets of liquid yeast and still only spend $40 if I order online with my coupon and go pick it up. That is for 5 gallons. The only thing you need for BIAB is a big kettle, a bag, and a way to lift said bag and the water out of the kettle after mashing. If you have a burner that sits low to the ground, that can be done with a pulley that you can buy off of Amazon and a ladder.
I initally had mashing issues because of using a cheap camp stove on an uneven surface with more weight that should have been on it. BIAB with a Blichmann that sits low to the ground and that has adjustments for a 16 gallon kettle is awesome. My last two beers have been two of my favorites. I hit mash temps dead on for both. My strike water calculator worked very well. It was so damn cold for the first one that I added 2 degrees, and it was a good decision.
The two things you will need to work out with BIAB: 1. is the crush consistant? My efficiency sucks, but the crush from the HB store is consistant. I can plan for that. 2. Setting your efficiency so you can build a recipe.
What's your homebrew shop?
 
The "L" part is about a 30 minute drive, depending on traffic. He's a good guy and all, but also a beer judge (accreditations unknown to me), and tends to be very opinionated about a lot of things. Saying 'conical fermenter' around him will get you a good lecture, and though my eyes tell me I'm making cleaner beer, he tells me I'm wrong and rants about how I'm ruining the beer by removing the trub for diacetyl rest. I see krausen and trub as something the yeast didn't want, so how is that going to make the beer any better?. Don't even THINK about saying 'cold-crashing' or "BIAB" to him. Maybe that's part of my justification for getting a mill and just ordering ingredients. I think I've learned what he's willing to teach, and simply don't want to endure more [unsolicited] criticism about what I want to try. I'm finding it more comfortable to go in there knowing EXACTLY what I want, or even sending him an e-mail with a list so I can just pop in, pick it up, and leave. I probably won't completely stop using his shop completely, but I'm certainly not going to discuss my brewing with him much more. I have no problem with criticism or opinion, IF I ask for it. Using his shop will likely be to obtain something I don't have and don't want to wait for.

He will indeed crush anything I ask for, and provide any ingredients I ask for, for the most part. He does, however, tend to substitute things that he doesn't have without a lot of asking, which suddenly just completely changed the target I was aiming at. Thus, the morphing of @Bulin's Milker Bucket Brews Three Day Weekend into what I brew. The point is, I wind up making what he wants me to make, not what I intended to make. Substitution isn't necessarily a bad thing, unless it's not what was wanted. I go in there ready to pay for what I get, and often leave with something totally different that cost just as much or more.

When I said 'kit' I was referring to the aggregate of ingredients for a brew. Whether I buy a list of ingredients from the LHBS, or a kit from Brewer's Best, I call it a 'kit' if it's just enough stuff for one batch. The only difference is one of them comes in a shiny box with more literal instructions for the brewing, and there are a lot fewer iterations of recipes from BB than I can get from him. But I daresay there's a lot more recipes on this site than I can get from him. It's why I paid for membership, as well as to get the advice I solicit, or I just read until I find what I'm looking for. In this case, yep, I'm asking for summaries of what some do to better inform myself.

So far, my take on having a mill is that a 2-roll mill is fine, though running the grist through twice may be required, according to some opinions. Knowing how they work, I can see a 3-roll mill being (some?) better than a 2-roll mill, but not enough to warrant the bigger investment. I'll take the difference and use it for an electric one (don't have to get the drill out). But I had to ask. Wider mills will process more grain, obviously, however, the rolls will also flex and affect the grist size / efficiency. I'm not in a hurry anyway, but I don't think I want to stand there hand-cranking 8 pounds of base malt through one of those things. Electric drive, it will be. I would likely do what Josh does, and make up a grain bill earlier and store it in the vittles boxes in the fridge until ready to use it. That might make me improve at planning the next brew, too. So yep, storage boxes were already on the agenda, and the missus gets some good ones that I'd likely use. That was never a question. I live in Alabama where the humidity is often higher than the temperature. EVERYTHING here gets damp and will mold unless it's kept dry. Storing anything in a sack here is asking for mold. I already know it's gotta be kept dry, real dry. I've considered tossing desiccant packets in the grain containers, similar to what is used in jerky packets. Any thoughts?

As for malt quantity, I'm thinking something like 50 lbs or so for base malt, split between pils and ale as you say @Trialben, and then just order the specialty grains I need when I want something I don't already have in a quantity suitable for keeping a little in inventory. I've already noticed the site has an inventory system, but haven't looked at it much as far as features. That should at least be a benchmark for helping me keep everything straight and know when to use up whatever grains I have in inventory. I'm not too shabby with Excel and Access, so there's no reason I couldn't build my own inventory system with one or the other. Otherwise, stickers on the containers to show me the date stuff was bought and what it is will have to do. Controlling and recording inventory will let me get a better idea of batch costs, too. I've only ever purchased ingredients for a single batch which the LHBS does not itemize, so I have no idea what I'm spending on what. It isn't as much about saving tons of money as it is about knowing more about what I'm spending it on. For that matter, I use Quicken, so it would be easy to call out everything I spend for brewing if I just set up the categories.

Already planned on keeping the hops frozen. Plenty freezer space for that. Yeast, well, I even keep the dry yeast in the fridge. It'll push the expiry date some if it's kept cool. Not much choice in the matter with liquid yeast. I also occasionally re-pitch when I happen to be making a brew that uses the same yeast or back-to-back batches, but rarely do I ever plan a brew based on what yeast I have in the mason jars, so a lot of it goes bad. I'm also thinking about exploring the preservation in glycerin idea, too, but one thing at a time. I could certainly utilize equipment to make starters. I've NEVER had a batch that didn't benefit from a good starter. I already keep a few pounds of DME on hand for that.

This is more about better organizing and improving my processes, understanding the costs better, and being ready to brew without having to go get ingredients. I would be more likely to brew something I have all the ingredients for than to wait for an order to come in, but I'm not really in that big a hurry. I officially joined the old fart's club last month (turned 65) and I'm retired, so I refuse to hurry for anything.

Thanks for all the info, folks. Keep it coming. I overthink things a lot and try to make sure I get the right thing. Impulse buying can get expensive. Less hasty decisions often wind up being the best ones.
 
I got a 2 roller mill and double crushing 2 kg malt by hand takes me about 5 minutes...
Just to give you an idea
 
The "L" part is about a 30 minute drive, depending on traffic. He's a good guy and all, but also a beer judge (accreditations unknown to me), and tends to be very opinionated about a lot of things. Saying 'conical fermenter' around him will get you a good lecture, and though my eyes tell me I'm making cleaner beer, he tells me I'm wrong and rants about how I'm ruining the beer by removing the trub for diacetyl rest. I see krausen and trub as something the yeast didn't want, so how is that going to make the beer any better?. Don't even THINK about saying 'cold-crashing' or "BIAB" to him. Maybe that's part of my justification for getting a mill and just ordering ingredients. I think I've learned what he's willing to teach, and simply don't want to endure more [unsolicited] criticism about what I want to try. I'm finding it more comfortable to go in there knowing EXACTLY what I want, or even sending him an e-mail with a list so I can just pop in, pick it up, and leave. I probably won't completely stop using his shop completely, but I'm certainly not going to discuss my brewing with him much more. I have no problem with criticism or opinion, IF I ask for it. Using his shop will likely be to obtain something I don't have and don't want to wait for.

He will indeed crush anything I ask for, and provide any ingredients I ask for, for the most part. He does, however, tend to substitute things that he doesn't have without a lot of asking, which suddenly just completely changed the target I was aiming at. Thus, the morphing of @Bulin's Milker Bucket Brews Three Day Weekend into what I brew. The point is, I wind up making what he wants me to make, not what I intended to make. Substitution isn't necessarily a bad thing, unless it's not what was wanted. I go in there ready to pay for what I get, and often leave with something totally different that cost just as much or more.

When I said 'kit' I was referring to the aggregate of ingredients for a brew. Whether I buy a list of ingredients from the LHBS, or a kit from Brewer's Best, I call it a 'kit' if it's just enough stuff for one batch. The only difference is one of them comes in a shiny box with more literal instructions for the brewing, and there are a lot fewer iterations of recipes from BB than I can get from him. But I daresay there's a lot more recipes on this site than I can get from him. It's why I paid for membership, as well as to get the advice I solicit, or I just read until I find what I'm looking for. In this case, yep, I'm asking for summaries of what some do to better inform myself.

So far, my take on having a mill is that a 2-roll mill is fine, though running the grist through twice may be required, according to some opinions. Knowing how they work, I can see a 3-roll mill being (some?) better than a 2-roll mill, but not enough to warrant the bigger investment. I'll take the difference and use it for an electric one (don't have to get the drill out). But I had to ask. Wider mills will process more grain, obviously, however, the rolls will also flex and affect the grist size / efficiency. I'm not in a hurry anyway, but I don't think I want to stand there hand-cranking 8 pounds of base malt through one of those things. Electric drive, it will be. I would likely do what Josh does, and make up a grain bill earlier and store it in the vittles boxes in the fridge until ready to use it. That might make me improve at planning the next brew, too. So yep, storage boxes were already on the agenda, and the missus gets some good ones that I'd likely use. That was never a question. I live in Alabama where the humidity is often higher than the temperature. EVERYTHING here gets damp and will mold unless it's kept dry. Storing anything in a sack here is asking for mold. I already know it's gotta be kept dry, real dry. I've considered tossing desiccant packets in the grain containers, similar to what is used in jerky packets. Any thoughts?

As for malt quantity, I'm thinking something like 50 lbs or so for base malt, split between pils and ale as you say @Trialben, and then just order the specialty grains I need when I want something I don't already have in a quantity suitable for keeping a little in inventory. I've already noticed the site has an inventory system, but haven't looked at it much as far as features. That should at least be a benchmark for helping me keep everything straight and know when to use up whatever grains I have in inventory. I'm not too shabby with Excel and Access, so there's no reason I couldn't build my own inventory system with one or the other. Otherwise, stickers on the containers to show me the date stuff was bought and what it is will have to do. Controlling and recording inventory will let me get a better idea of batch costs, too. I've only ever purchased ingredients for a single batch which the LHBS does not itemize, so I have no idea what I'm spending on what. It isn't as much about saving tons of money as it is about knowing more about what I'm spending it on. For that matter, I use Quicken, so it would be easy to call out everything I spend for brewing if I just set up the categories.

Already planned on keeping the hops frozen. Plenty freezer space for that. Yeast, well, I even keep the dry yeast in the fridge. It'll push the expiry date some if it's kept cool. Not much choice in the matter with liquid yeast. I also occasionally re-pitch when I happen to be making a brew that uses the same yeast or back-to-back batches, but rarely do I ever plan a brew based on what yeast I have in the mason jars, so a lot of it goes bad. I'm also thinking about exploring the preservation in glycerin idea, too, but one thing at a time. I could certainly utilize equipment to make starters. I've NEVER had a batch that didn't benefit from a good starter. I already keep a few pounds of DME on hand for that.

This is more about better organizing and improving my processes, understanding the costs better, and being ready to brew without having to go get ingredients. I would be more likely to brew something I have all the ingredients for than to wait for an order to come in, but I'm not really in that big a hurry. I officially joined the old fart's club last month (turned 65) and I'm retired, so I refuse to hurry for anything.

Thanks for all the info, folks. Keep it coming. I overthink things a lot and try to make sure I get the right thing. Impulse buying can get expensive. Less hasty decisions often wind up being the best ones.


sounds like that guy is kinda a dick, lol. I have no problem with someone offering an alternative and explaining why I might want to do it that way. been plenty of times on this journey that I have been doing things wrong (or just less good). but in the end I am paying for the product. if I decide I want something, just sell it too me!

as for the mill widths, most are only about 4" wide, even if it they were 8" wide. its 1-1 1/2" thick solid hardened steel. its not gonna flex.
 
You are headed right.

Only one point I will contest: even a large mill has rollers that are only about a foot long. You will not see much bending moment in the middle of a 1 or 1.5 inch diameter cylinder.
 
1. I'd buy a 50-55lb sack of your 2 favorite base malts. (I typically have 3 -4 Munich, Vienna, Pilsner and sometimes Golden Promise) and I brew 5-8 10 gallon batches a year. - Buy large totes to store the malt sacks in. You can get a couple brew buckets and gamma lids for your specialty grains.

2. I went from a 2 roller to a 3 roller and would do it again in a heartbeat! Investing in a nice roller and getting it set up on a stand with a bin below was a game changer for me.

3. Brewzilla! I can't say enough good things about it! I upgraded to the 240v 10 gallon Brewzilla and love it! I still use my 5 gallon brewzilla from time to time too. (mostly I use it for the pump as a sparge vessel now! lol )

- I also bought a counterflow chiller (never thought I would... ) and boy do I love it! I got the Exchilerator.

There's a whole lot of money well spent there... I'd probably start with the grain, mill and a 10 gallon pot BIAB and save up for an electric all in one (if you're serious about going electric.)

Keep us posted with what you decide! Oh, and don't forget to use the inventory feature if you start stocking up on things. Very handy!

Tip on yeast: pick something versatile that you like in a dry strain and buy a brick - get a vacuum sealer and make your own packets! Very handy and cost effective!
 
1. I'd buy a 50-55lb sack of your 2 favorite base malts. (I typically have 3 -4 Munich, Vienna, Pilsner and sometimes Golden Promise) and I brew 5-8 10 gallon batches a year. - Buy large totes to store the malt sacks in. You can get a couple brew buckets and gamma lids for your specialty grains.

2. I went from a 2 roller to a 3 roller and would do it again in a heartbeat! Investing in a nice roller and getting it set up on a stand with a bin below was a game changer for me.

3. Brewzilla! I can't say enough good things about it! I upgraded to the 240v 10 gallon Brewzilla and love it! I still use my 5 gallon brewzilla from time to time too. (mostly I use it for the pump as a sparge vessel now! lol )

- I also bought a counterflow chiller (never thought I would... ) and boy do I love it! I got the Exchilerator.

There's a whole lot of money well spent there... I'd probably start with the grain, mill and a 10 gallon pot BIAB and save up for an electric all in one (if you're serious about going electric.)

Keep us posted with what you decide! Oh, and don't forget to use the inventory feature if you start stocking up on things. Very handy!

Tip on yeast: pick something versatile that you like in a dry strain and buy a brick - get a vacuum sealer and make your own packets! Very handy and cost effective!
I would disagree with one thing: 15 gallons if going BIAB. You DO need that much space.
 
1.I buy in bulk. I keep up to 150-200 pounds , but usually I have at least a100 pounds around. Malt can last up to 2 years if you get it fresh, or just figure 18 months. I keep them in 5 gallon buckets with snap on lids. Each bucket holds 25 pounds. The buckets stack nicely too. I save a boat load compared to kits.
2. Don’t worry about getting tannins from too fine of a crush. Tannin extraction is driven mostly by a pH over 5.8-6.0.
3. What type of mash tun? That’s up to you. I like my system I built, but if I started with BIAB, it’s likely I would make that work for me.

I don’t brew to save money, but keeping costs down does make good sense. If I really wanted to save money, I’d stop drinking beer.
I brew also but when you live in Canada you can't help but save money when you brew it yourself.
 
I brew also but when you live in Canada you can't help but save money when you brew it yourself.
In the words of John candy "all I said was Canadian beer sucks!"
 
I have to side with @Blackmuse , electric is the way to go. I use 220v Anvil. You won't regret this one.
A simple two roller mill mounted to a table with an electric motor . Double milling takes only a few minutes.
Fermenter is a Spidel and an old refrigerator with an Inkbird. An old coffee maker hot plate with a big heat sink and fan for when it calls for heat.
 

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