BIAB and Boiling Again

Toddsgate

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I'm looking for your experience or educated opinion. I'm fairly new here and to brewing in general, this being only my second batch after doing a couple of Mister Beer kits. I developed this recipe for a 2-1/2 gallon batch (https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1518706/bonham-blonde), and the quick water requirements instructed to start with 4.69 gallons, which I did. After 1 hour of steeping the correct grain bill, removing the bag and slightly squeezing the bag back into the kettle, I ended up with just over 4-1/4 gallons of wort instead of the 3.85 gal the recipe calculator showed should be the result. The preboil, hydrometer measured gravity, corrected for temperature was 1.028 with an expected 1.032. I did't mind that, so I went to boil. The wort boiled for 1 hour with the hops and Irish moss added at the specified intervals. At this point, I cooled the wort in an ice bath to around 68*F and took another gravity reading, recorded at 1.034. The wort volume was now 3.75 gallons with a projected 2.56. Being over by 1-1/4 gallons and not hitting my gravity of 1.048, I moved the kettle back to the burner to boil it down. After the wort reached about 2-2/3 gallons, I cooled it once again in the ice bath, recording a gravity reading of 1.046. How will this scenario affect my batch? Should I worry about the IBU's or resulting cloudiness since the moss was boiled early?

Thanks for your input,

Todd

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Since the pre-boil gravity was different than the recipe was based on, the IBUs will be impacted. Likewise, extra boil time may extract more alpha acids from residual hop material. It shouldn't be a drastic difference, The Irish moss should be fine.
Next time, boil down without any hops to get to your projected pre-boil volume and gravity and then proceed with your hop additions and normal 1-hour boil time.
Or just take what you get and run with it. A difference of up to 5 points difference in gravity won't ruin a beer.
 
It will still be beer, even if it isn't perfect. You will learn more as you go, it takes a few batches to get used to your equipment
 
Yes, it will be beer!
Take note of all your figures then go to the equipment set up and change your boil off volume etc till they fit your equipment
 
The boil off rate is something you learn based on your climate and equipment. Take notes and adjust accordingly the next time. I'm lucky. With my simple 5 gallon set-up, it is fairly close to 1 hour, 1 gallon.
 
I sometimes boil a little longer when the gravity isn’t as high as I want it. 60 minute hop additions are as bitter as they will likely get. The 20 and 10 minute additions however, may drive to bitterness up more than you would like. It’s good to monitor the gravity during the boil so this doesn’t happen again. A refractometer works really well to keep an eye on the gravity so you can easily add the late additions at the right time. There may be times you need to extend a boil or even add water to keep the gravity from going too high.

As I have said before, boil for gravity, not volume. It’s better for getting the beer you were intending with that method. As you get more experience, you will be able to nail your numbers more easily and consistently.
 
I appreciate the responses so far! Let me add that after the 1st boil and the addition of hops and moss, I removed them, cooled the wort, took the gravity reading, then re-boiled. I'm wondering if my bitterness and aroma will be affected (lessened) due to the re-boil without having added more during that 2nd boil.

Todd
 
The flavor/aroma hop additions at 5 minutes - you did that on the first boil, correct?
You'll likely lose a little of that element of the beer, but everyone else who has responded here has --NAILED IT--

Good questions.

Check out @Bigbre04's awesome https://www.brewersfriend.com/forum/threads/all-in-one-brewhouse-help-thread.17832/

Lots of good suggestions in here. First up: Get a refractometer. You can take gravity readings of hot wort, before there's any alcohol. This helps you gauge whether you have your numbers at mash out, after sparging / pre-boil and even post boil.
 
Check your equipment profile. Your grain absorption seems off. Also to test your boil off rate put a couple of gallons of water in your kettle and boil for an hour and check your new water volume, this will give you your boil off rate.
 
When you do a test for boil off rate, for the greatest accuracy, weigh the water before and after. Water volume changes with temperature, but always weighs the same.
If you are a gallons person, one US gallon weighs approximately 8.34lbs. Another reason I like the metric system, 1 liter weighs 1 kilogram.
It isn't absolutely necessary to do the weighing thing, but it is the most accurate.
 
A refractometer works really well to keep an eye on the gravity so you can easily add the late additions at the right time. There may be times you need to extend a boil or even add water to keep the gravity from going too high.

As I have said before, boil for gravity, not volume. It’s better for getting the beer you were intending with that method. As you get more experience, you will be able to nail your numbers more easily and consistently.
I have a refractometer, though I'm not 100% convinced of it's accuracy. Can a refractometer handle the 2 drops of boiling wort, and does it need to be corrected, or should those drops be cooled before application?

Todd
 
I have a refractometer, though I'm not 100% convinced of it's accuracy. Can a refractometer handle the 2 drops of boiling wort, and does it need to be corrected, or should those drops be cooled before application?

Todd
Hot wort is no problem, the mass of the prism cools the wort very quickly (in seconds).

Verify calibration by checking plain water, which should measure 1.00. Temperature does not affect the reading enough to care.
 
You could also use a hydrometer sample once cooled to confirm the refractometer reading
 
I have a refractometer, though I'm not 100% convinced of it's accuracy. Can a refractometer handle the 2 drops of boiling wort, and does it need to be corrected, or should those drops be cooled before application?

Todd
Like any gauge, it's like the Pirate Code; that is to say: "More like guidelines than actual rules"
When I get a refractometer reading, I backstop it with another reading. Obviously, clean and dry before each use. IDK how you're getting 2 drops of boiling wort, but I get a big-@ss-brewing-spoon-full.

It's really simple to use- grab some wort, drop evenly on the lens. Close the cover and ensure it's fully seated. Point it towards a bright light source, make sure it's focused, and take your reading.

I use it throughout the brew day, usually starting about 45 minutes into the mash. Don't be afraid to mash longer than an hour. My equipment efficiency tumbles over about 12# of malt. Today was 14.5# + rice hulls. Mash was 90 minutes, mash out was 30. Usually I want 15-20 minutes but it does gain me some gravity. All in I was at 71% efficiency today, which is a bit below average for the year, but not out of character for that much grain. Normally I'm in the mid 70's and have even hit 80% a couple times with some lawnmower beers.
 
I draw a little bit of wort off into a glass measuring cup, then use a little pipette to put just enough on the refractometer. Then pour the excess back into the mashtun/kettle.
I clean and dry the measuring cup and the refractometer after each sample and then rinse the pipette by drawing up and squirting out clean water. I do the same with the pipette with the wort each tim to make sure I am not diluting the sample.

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I also use the plastic pipettes. Only thing is, don’t turn them to face up, the heated wort heats the air in the ‘bulb’ and squirts the hot sample out.
 
I use a glass pippett.
 
I also use the plastic pipettes. Only thing is, don’t turn them to face up, the heated wort heats the air in the ‘bulb’ and squirts the hot sample out.
Yup!
 

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