beginner questions

asulwer

New Member
Premium Member
Established Member
Joined
May 18, 2025
Messages
15
Reaction score
7
Points
3
i am trying to follow a recipe on this site and am not sure how much water this recipe needs.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1424800/big-blue-van/519265

steps i am unsure of.

Setup
1. This recipe calls for 8.58 gal (34.3 qt) of water
Mash
1. Strike water volume is 3.94 gal (15.8 qt) at 1.5 quarts/pound mash thickness
2. 00:60:00 Mash step 1 (Infusion) Add 6.5 gal at 155F to raise mash to 150F for 60 minutes.
3. 00:00:00 Mash step 2 (Batch Sparge) Sparge with 1 gal at 170F

how much water do i need at 155F for the mashing process? i am using 10.5 pounds of malt, according to the recipe. these four steps are confusing as i do not know how much water is actually needed!
 
What is your setup? If brew in a bag, what do you think your boil off rate is? The question can't be answered without knowing those things. You can work backwards for water based on your set-up. I only single infusion mash in one BIAB vessel with a one gallon boil off rate.
I start with 8 gallons. The grain sucks up one, the boil loses one, and I basically lose 1/2 to one in the trub.
For single infusion, 155 is a little on the high side for a lighter beer.
 
BIAB. i just don't understand these steps and their meaning.

How do i account for boil losses and grain absorption? i can figure out tub loss.

this recipe calls for 8.58 gallons (34.3 quarts) of water.

strike water is 3.94 gallons (??temp??)
(then add another??) Mash step 1, infusion, add 6.5 gallons at 155F to raise Mash temp to 150F. bringing my water total to 10.44 gallons? then sparge with another 1 gallon? totaling 11.44 gallons in? boil losses and grain absorption should bring me down to 7.02 gallons?

if i want 5 gallons of beer, according to that recipe.
10.5 pounds of Mash at 150F for 60 minutes. 6.5 gallons (15.75 qts) at 160F to bring 10.5 pounds of Mash up to 150F if Mash is at 80F.
Sparge with 1 gallon of water at 170F
Pre-boil volume should be 7.02 gallons? total of 7.5 gallons in with a loss of 0.48 gallons, leaving a pre-boil of 7.02 gallons?

that recipe calls for blueberry and vanilla extract, at what point are they added?
 
Last edited:
How do i account for boil losses and grain absorption? i can figure out tub loss.
boil loss is something you test with your equipment.
Set up your equipment and boil off water for 1 hour exactly. You need to know how much water you started with and how much you finished with.
You don’t need a full kettle for this, but you do need to know how much you boil off in one hour.

ex.: my Anvil 10.5 gallon AIO system boils of a tick over .5 gallons in 1 hour ( 110 v ). My anvil 18 boils off 1.75 gallons in 1 hour at 220v.
I set up the kettles with a known amount of water using the lines in the kettle, boiled 1 hour, let it settle and took the measurement. This is approximately how much wort boil off you will have.

Grain absorption is a dark art; like sorcery. If you figure it out, LMK... On 2nd thought... I may not want to know.

"
Style: American Wheat Beer
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Pre Boil Size: 7.02 gallons
Post Boil Size: 5.5 gallons
Pre Boil Gravity: 1.039 (recipe based estimate)
Post Boil Gravity: 1.049 (recipe based estimate)
Efficiency: 70% (brew house)

This says that you are targeting a final size of 5.5 gallons; a pre-boil VOLUME of 7.02 gallons, at 1.039 gravity. A post boil size of 5.5 gallons at 1.049 gravity.

What equipment are you using and do you have?
NO judgment here, a lot of us started with 6.5 gallon plastic bucket fermenters and large, stove top boil pots! You can still make really good beer that way.

this recipe calls for 8.58 gallons (34.3 quarts) of water.
But not all at once !



strike water is 3.94 gallons (??temp??)
~ 4 gallons of water at 10.5# is pretty thick. typically, your wheat beer will be 149-154-ish. lower temp in the mash, generally will be drier, higher temp will leave more unfermenatble sugar. 152F is a happy medium for a single infusion mash.


that recipe calls for blueberry and vanilla extract, at what point are they added?
1 ozBlueberry extractFlavorPrimary0 min.
1 ozVanilla extractSpicePrimary0 min.

in the primary fermentation.
if i want 5 gallons of beer, according to that recipe.
10.5 pounds of Mash at 150F for 60 minutes. 6.5 gallons (15.75 qts) at 160F to bring 10.5 pounds of Mash up to 150F if Mash is at 80F.
Sparge with 1 gallon of water at 170F
If you want 5 gallons of BEER, not including yeast and true, you need about 5.5 - 5.75 gallons give or take. and to achieve that you will mash 10.5# of malt at 150 ( I like 152 ) for 60 minutes enough time to make slightly higher than your pre-boil gravity, so that when you sparge, your wort gravity will only drop slightly to the pre-boil gravity and...

VOILA! You have recreated the recipe ... for the most part.

Don’t just blindly mash 60 minutes, you mash until your numbers are met. Also, a 1 gallon sparge is pretty much a gesture that won’t gain you much other than effort and experience. Even though I use an all in one, I sparge for 3 gallons minimum all said and done and the traditional brewers sparge more.
Sparging is helpful to efficiency and extraction but isn’t strictly “necessary” for a home brewer. It is if you’re trying to extract every last bit of fermentability out of the mash.
 
i have a ton to learn. thanks for this!
 
BIAB. i just don't understand these steps and their meaning.

How do i account for boil losses and grain absorption? i can figure out tub loss.

this recipe calls for 8.58 gallons (34.3 quarts) of water.

strike water is 3.94 gallons (??temp??)
(then add another??) Mash step 1, infusion, add 6.5 gallons at 155F to raise Mash temp to 150F. bringing my water total to 10.44 gallons? then sparge with another 1 gallon? totaling 11.44 gallons in? boil losses and grain absorption should bring me down to 7.02 gallons?

if i want 5 gallons of beer, according to that recipe.
10.5 pounds of Mash at 150F for 60 minutes. 6.5 gallons (15.75 qts) at 160F to bring 10.5 pounds of Mash up to 150F if Mash is at 80F.
Sparge with 1 gallon of water at 170F
Pre-boil volume should be 7.02 gallons? total of 7.5 gallons in with a loss of 0.48 gallons, leaving a pre-boil of 7.02 gallons?

that recipe calls for blueberry and vanilla extract, at what point are they added?
As a different view: as Dave wrote, you want to end with a bit more than 5 gallons. this is a common batch size in home growing, because the small kegs we use typically have a 5 gallon capacity.

If your equipment can handle it, start with about 6-6.5 gallons. Heat the water a bit higher than your desired mash temperature, since 10.5 pounds of grain will cool it off a bit. (155-158 is reasonable).

Mash for a while, try to maintain your desired temperature. You can tell when all the starches are converted to sugars (which is the point of mashing the grain) by mixing a few drops of wort with a drop of iodine: if it turns black, there are still some starches and you should keep mashing, if it stays brownish then conversion is complete.

Sparge is not absolutely required, but it helps to rinse some of the sugars off of the remaining grain. Separate the grain and the wort, then rinse the remaining grain (hot (170F) water is typically used) and take the resulting liquid and add it to the wort. A typical practice is to add enough rinse (sparge) water to get up to about 6.5-7 gallons, so when you boil off maybe a gallon of water, you wind up with your 5.5-5.75 gallon goal ‘into the fermenter’.

Hops are another matter. The time that the hops are in contact with boiling water is an important parameter.

Extracts: I add them around the same time as the yeast. Others on this forum may advise differently.

Keep asking questions, will keep helping.
 
if i want 5 gallons of beer, then i roughly want, 5.5 gallons of wort.

i bought this (huge for my stove) 16 gallon brew pot from amazon, it barely fits on my stove. i am fermenting in a Sanke keg with a homemade spunge valve set to 5 psi

what i have gathered, after some coffee this morning and time to absorb what i read. this isn't the same as following a recipe for baking bread where it must be followed exactly.

this specific recipe calls for roughly 4 gallons of water and then later states 6.5 gallons of water, which confused me. which number should i use? both, first, second, that confused me. at this point i am not following the recipe because it's basically an American Wheat Beer with some flavorings added later.
~ 4 gallons of water at 10.5# is pretty thick.
 
a few of the recipes i have seen on this site list this step which 'i think' i understand.

Strike water volume is 3.86 gallons (15.5 quarts) at 1.5 quarts/pounds mash thickness

that is to say, malt plus water equals 15.5 quarts NOT 15.5 quarts of water added to the malt. add the malt to the pot then add water until volume of 15.5 quarts is reached?

so...to fully understand these steps from a basic recipe

1750264633071.png


1. strike water = water + malt = 15.5 quarts.
2. when strike water is ready? which means water has been added to the malt and that equals 15.5 quarts?
3. turn on the heat until 154F is reached and maintain that?

1750264916903.png


I THINK what the steps are saying.

i heat water to some number higher (i understand the equation for this) than the desired temp of 154F. add that water to the malt until malt and water equals 15.5 quarts. the temp of the water will go down but the temp of the malt will go up to 154F. soak the malt until all of the starches are converted (can test with iodine) or desired gravity is reached (i have a digital refractometer, brix scale). Then add more water to reach pre-boil volume of 6 gallons. cool 6 gallons down to room temp and then take gravity reading. boil until desired specific gravity is reached which is about 60 minutes
 
Last edited:
Your putting way too much concern into this strike water thing.
Just throw your grain into ABOUT 16 quarts ( I use 22 quarts, It doesn't need to be exact) of your hot (~155°F) water Stir out the lumps.
 
Your putting way too much concern into this strike water thing.
Just throw your grain into ABOUT 16 quarts ( I use 22 quarts, It doesn't need to be exact) of your hot (~155°F) water Stir out the lumps.
i am just trying to, fully, understand the recipe steps that most of the recipes on this site contain
 
that is to say, malt plus water equals 15.5 quarts NOT 15.5 quarts of water added to the malt. add the malt to the pot then add water until volume of 15.5 quarts is reached?

No, the strike water volume is the amount of water to add to the grist. Something is messed up with your brewing steps; maybe something in the Equipment Profile? I checked the brewing steps for my most recent batch and the strike water volume and the Mash Step 1 volume were the same.
(I do a standard all-grain mash (not BIAB) in a picnic cooler with a batch sparge.)

1750279586576.png
 
I THINK what the steps are saying.

i heat water to some number higher (i understand the equation for this) than the desired temp of 154F. add that water to the malt until malt and water equals 15.5 quarts. the temp of the water will go down but the temp of the malt will go up to 154F. soak the malt until all of the starches are converted (can test with iodine) or desired gravity is reached (i have a digital refractometer, brix scale). Then add more water to reach pre-boil volume of 6 gallons. cool 6 gallons down to room temp and then take gravity reading. boil until desired specific gravity is reached which is about 60 minutes

This sounds about right for BIAB. Mash for 60 minutes (or more) then lift grain bag and drizzle a gallon of sparge water over the grain bag which will drain into the kettle*. For the pre-boil measurement, you don't need to cool the batch, you only need to cool the sample down to room temperature.

For your mash temp and gravity readings, get as close as you can without getting too stressed. If your target mash temp is 154°F and you wind up a couple degrees high or low, don't worry about it. Make note of that and adjust your strike water next time.

* For my batch sparge method. I drain the wort from mash tun (called 1st runnings) and then add the sparge water, stir and let it sit for a bit then drain that (called 2nd runnings) in to boil kettle.
 
@asulwer : I’d really like to know what equipment you’re working with and what brewing tools you have on hand.

I ask because an all in one system is different and has some adjustments to make things work.
6.6 gallons of strike water would be in line with an all in one system - I usually mash in with 7-7.5 gallons of water.

i heat water to some number higher (i understand the equation for this) than the desired temp of 154F. add that water to the malt until malt and water equals 15.5 quarts. the temp of the water will go down but the temp of the malt will go up to 154F. soak the malt until all of the starches are converted (can test with iodine) or desired gravity is reached (i have a digital refractometer, brix scale). Then add more water to reach pre-boil volume of 6 gallons. cool 6 gallons down to room temp and then take gravity reading. boil until desired specific gravity is reached which is about 60 minutes
This is a pretty good understanding. Refractometer readings throughout will give you data to get the mash done. It may take 90-120 minutes depending on your equipment. The 60 minute boil is pretty standard and allows us all to keep a uniform hop schedule.
 
i bought a 16 gallon pot with a false bottom. so like a BIAM but without the bag. i reuse the pot for boiling, once cleaned after the initial mashing and sparging. the finished product goes into a Sanke keg, then i pitch in the yeast and hope for beer. i used a kit the first three times in the keg. basically, pour water and this kit into the keg along with yeast. wait a week before cold crashing in a small fridge. turned out fine. i want to move on to all grain but getting hung up on some of this websites recipe details.
 
No, the strike water volume is the amount of water to add to the grist. Something is messed up with your brewing steps; maybe something in the Equipment Profile? I checked the brewing steps for my most recent batch and the strike water volume and the Mash Step 1 volume were the same.
(I do a standard all-grain mash (not BIAB) in a picnic cooler with a batch sparge.)

View attachment 32239
so i add 15.5 quarts of strike (hot) water to the 10.5# of malt? the water will be of higher temp than the desired temp of 152F? the malt will displace the water equaling a greater volume, is that correct?
 
so i add 15.5 quarts of strike (hot) water to the 10.5# of malt? the water will be of higher temp than the desired temp of 152F? the malt will displace the water equaling a greater volume, is that correct?
Correct. The Water Requirements tab in the Brew Session will show useful information like the volume of the strike water + the grain. Another piece of useful info is how much strike water the grain will absorb. This doesn't apply to the sparge water because the grain is already wet.
1750281995467.png


Once you add the strike water and stir, and crushing any dough balls, let it sit for 5 minutes then measure the mash temperature. Be very careful if you are trying to maintain mash temps by heating the kettle on the stop-top. Stir often, if not constantly when heating.
 
Correct. The Water Requirements tab in the Brew Session will show useful information like the volume of the strike water + the grain. Another piece of useful info is how much strike water the grain will absorb. This doesn't apply to the sparge water because the grain is already wet.
View attachment 32240

Once you add the strike water and stir, and crushing any dough balls, let it sit for 5 minutes then measure the mash temperature. Be very careful if you are trying to maintain mash temps by heating the kettle on the stop-top. Stir often, if not constantly when heating.
the Water Requirements tab helped to better understand that recipe. at first glance of that recipe the water requirements are all over the place. the water tab shows gains/losses which makes sense. thanks
 
Fermenting in a keg: you must leave head space for the foam (Krausen). It could get into the spunding valve and clog it, somewhat dangerous as pressure will build.

The keg can handle something like 100 psi, and at that pressure, the yeast will have stopped working, so it is self limiting to a point.

I would not put in more than 4 gallons.
 

Back
Top