Electric Brewing question

Nola_Brew

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So i recently picked up a High Gravity 120 system. I've made two brews with it and so far it's been great.

Question: When I added my chiller at the last 10 min of the boil, the temps dropped and the boil stopped. It didn't have enough time to recover by the end of boil time. Is there any issues or concerns when adding the chiller and the wort doesn't continue to boil? I really don't want to have to use my other kettle and heat up a pot of water to just to sanitize my chiller.
 
I have that problem too, my solution is to put the chiller in earlier in the boil...and make sure it ain't too cold before I put it in. Have it in a bucket of hot water or put it over your kettle to warm it up.
 
I have that problem too, my solution is to put the chiller in earlier in the boil...and make sure it ain't too cold before I put it in. Have it in a bucket of hot water or put it over your kettle to warm it up.
Good Idea about putting it over the kettle. Might try that next time and add in at the 15 min point.
 
Your lack of boiling for 10 minutes would have a small affect on boil off and hop utilization, both of which usually need to be dialed in with a new system anyway. As long as you're hitting your numbers and producing good beer I wouldn't be concerned.

I'm amazed that it takes that long for your boiler to recover. I use a cheap 110 volt, 1500 watt, Digiboil and it recovers in about 2 minutes.
 
Your lack of boiling for 10 minutes would have a small affect on boil off and hop utilization, both of which usually need to be dialed in with a new system anyway. As long as you're hitting your numbers and producing good beer I wouldn't be concerned.

I'm amazed that it takes that long for your boiler to recover. I use a cheap 110 volt, 1500 watt, Digiboil and it recovers in about 2 minutes.
I put my chiller in the kettle before I start the boil...

Great Idea. If my boiler took 10+ minutes to recover after dropping the chiller in I'd seriously consider that. It would definitely take longer to achieve the boil, but would eliminate any recovery issues.
 
I'm still dialing in the system. I have another brew scheduled for next weekend.
I wouldn't think it would take 10 min to recover considering my system uses the 2200 watt boil coil but my chiller is pretty stout (CUSS, which is similar to the Jaded products).
I do have a cheap IC that is about half the size of the CUSS one I have and I would assume it would take less time for a system to recover using a smaller, less stout chiller.
 
I honestly never give mine 10 minutes. I have a google reminder go off with 5 minutes left to boil and usually drop it in around then. I wouldn't think anymore than a minute or two at boiling or near boiling temps would matter a whole lot. If it is a big concern you could add supplemental heat like a Hot Rod or stove burner if in the kitchen.
 
Have you tried putting the lid back on once you put the chiller in? It might help.
 
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Those systems with 110 volt heating elements will always be under-powered. Just throw it in earlier.
 
I just chuck mine into the hot wort after my volume check and gravity sample. Essentially it takes contact with 180 degree wort to sanitize the coil, it's that fast. So what I'd do is RDWHAHB and chuck it in the hot wort when the boil is done.
 
I chuck mine in at 15min.
it take a few minutes to reach a boil on my rig again I just up the watts on the second element to compensate untill the boils a rolling again. Usually I come back having forgot about the second element at %100 and its boiling like crazy!
 
So, I transfer the hot wort from the electric system to an older kettle for whirlpool and chilling because it is wider, more shallow, and easier to work with. It is also cooler. In doing that I soak the chiller in starsan just before I start and let it drain.
 
So, I transfer the hot wort from the electric system to an older kettle for whirlpool and chilling because it is wider, more shallow, and easier to work with. It is also cooler. In doing that I soak the chiller in starsan just before I start and let it drain.
That works, too.
 
After my second brew session using an immersion chiller I had the same issue. I am no physicist, but I realized that the tubing was full of water. Ever since then I use my compressor to blow the water out of it on brew day. The time to come back to boil is a fraction of what it was when full of water.

But, ya, I'm with the others, putting my chiller in with 15 to go is a habit now, but certainly not entirely necessary.
 
I've always drained my IC after use. Got into the habit when it was stored in a shed and I didn't want the water in it to freeze and burst the tubing. Never thought of the extra boil recovery time.
 
I've always drained my IC after use. Got into the habit when it was stored in a shed and I didn't want the water in it to freeze and burst the tubing. Never thought of the extra boil recovery time.
Ditto that: I just hold it up and let the water run out.
 
So... If you are dropping your boil temp down to say, mile high boil temp for a few minutes, I don't see how that can affect the brew in a noticeable manner. RDWHAHB
That would be 200 degrees F. Sanitation occurs instantly on contact with water at that temperature.
 
I always drain my OC after each use. If there is any water left it is minimal.
I am planning a brew on Saturday and will add the IC at the 15 min mark to see how it works.
 

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