I hear you but I'm cheap
A Munich Dunkel and a Dunkelweissen are two different beers.
what makes you say that
I did want some of the plumby that you get in a Belgian. I think that might be interesting to mess with combining that with the banana/clove. That is why I had some of the specialty malts in there. I appreciate the article, and I might play around a little more. Now, I understand why they have the Carafa Special in some of those recipes, and I may do the same.
Not sure where you get that Wheat has low DP. I've never seen a low spec from any malster. Briess Red & White each have 110 & 120 DP respectively. Rye is high like that too. 50% Wheat will easily convert anything you throw at the other 50%.I have a wheat beer that is 90% white wheat and 10% cara10. It ferments just fine. Wheat has much lower diastatic power, but it isn't zero.
If you can get ahold of some Dark Munich 30 still, go for it. Though it may be hard to find, and unless it has been kept frozen, probably not very fresh. Briess used to make this and it could be used 100%. It made excellent single-malt Browns & Dunkels and Dunkelweisse at 50:50 with Wheat. I think Gambrinus makes one now, though it can't be used 100% like the Briess version, but that shouldn't be an issue with 50% Wheat in a Dunkelweisse. I haven't made the style in years, but if I were to do so again, that's the route I'd take.
I've never seen Wheat not convert, even at 100%. It has always worked for me like any other malt. Mind you, I do BIAB and I usually crush to 0.028″ but I've learned to up that to 0.032″ for an all-Wheat or Rye brew because they tend to gum up my bag slightly at the finer 'flour' crush.
That would reduce conversion. Braukaiser demonstrated that, but you'll have to go to the wayback machine now to find the blog. Thinner mashes = better & faster conversion. Traditional ratios take longer.
Do you target and adjust mash pH? If not, I'd highly recommend taking that leap. You'll solve conversion issues right away. If you already adjust, maybe refine the target pH per recipe. Be careful of most brewing literature's recommended targets. Always measure at the probe's reference temp, not mash temp, and verify which temp the published target is talking about. (then adjust accordingly) Strips aren't really worth the bother.
That's not too bad. 13# for 5gal is reasonable. You have over 60% high DP grains, and another 15% of Munich that can at least handle itself. The Wheat & Pilsner should easily chew up the rest.
2 row and 6 row have 140-160. So..... Lower
I read something where the high water to grain ratio in a BIAB does affect the PH. I never messed with it. If it takes a little more grain, I can live with it at this level. I just want predictable.
Indeed it is. I just got caught assuming a number when one wasn't stated. That drives me batty in brewing literature. (unqualified or unenumerated adjectives rather than useful and more accurately descriptive data points) I shall endeavor to do better—Apologies!
I don't recall that specifically, but Braukaiser might have that documented. It might be a data point that I resolved long ago and just went with it because I had already chosen the method based on equipment available. (I built-out my kettle and bought the bag before I learned how it works!)
