Need an Opinion on A Sierra Nevada Clone--Virtual Tasting.

[Mike at Bay]

Some would say that Crystal doesn't belong, but I feel that it does. Reducing the Crystal and adding back more base malt will make it a bit more fermentable, coupling that with a lower mash temperature will help marginally.

So you don't think more bittering is necessary?

 

[Donoroto]

So you don't think more bittering is necessary?

If you decide to make changes, it is often best to make them one at a time. That way you learn better the effect your one change made.

 

[NorthCoastBrewer]

No bite to it as I compare to the can of SNPA I have here.

The recipe you linked to lists the target water profile as "balanced" (Cl: 75, SO4: 80) so the S04 : Cl ratio is 1:1.

A higher ratio (around 3 : 1 SO4 : Cl) will help get that "hop bite" that SNPA has - so maybe 150 ppm S04 & 50 ppm Cl.

 

[Craigerrr]

That is a good point too NCB, that is one thing that brewing software doesn't take into account, the affect of the water profile on perceived bitterness.

 

[J A]

You may not need to make any changes. Let it settle and try it again. Very often the early version, before it's dropped very clear in the bottle or keg, is carrying a little extra yeast flavor which is often somewhat fruity and can add to the perceived sweetness.
It's very easy to change the recipe a little next time if you feel it's needed. If you've got a beer that has the right basic characteristics and is cleanly executed, you've succeeded. The real test is not whether you nailed the exact flavor profile. The real test is when you hand someone a glass of your beer and a glass of the "factory" beer and they don't know which is the homebrew.

 

[Mike at Bay]

Thanks all.

V1 of the SNPA clone was using water after my softener and had a different hop make up...recipe in another brewing software.
V2 of the SNPA clone (the recipe linked in this thread) was using distilled water, water additions, measuring PH for the first time. Cascade hops only.
V3 of the SNPA clone will be brewed this weekend using the tap water before my softener.

 

[Craigerrr]

You may not need to make any changes. Let it settle and try it again. Very often the early version, before it's dropped very clear in the bottle or keg, is carrying a little extra yeast flavor which is often somewhat fruity and can add to the perceived sweetness.
It's very easy to change the recipe a little next time if you feel it's needed. If you've got a beer that has the right basic characteristics and is cleanly executed, you've succeeded. The real test is not whether you nailed the exact flavor profile. The real test is when you hand someone a glass of your beer and a glass of the "factory" beer and they don't know which is the homebrew.

Very good advice!
My initial thoughts were "what could be changed", but this is probably the best approach.

If it hasn't been mentioned previously make sure to add 1/2 of a campden tablet to eliminate any chlorine or chloromine in your water.

 

[J A]

My initial thoughts were "what could be changed", but this is probably the best approach.

Most of us, even after years of experience, get impatient and want to assess our beers as soon as they're drinkable. Some styles lend themselves to early sampling and are best or better when consumed soon after fermentation. I've found time after time that when I sample as soon as I get relatively clear beer running, I have to take into account what likely changes will occur in the first week or two in the keg.
Lagers, of course only get really good when you're down to the last few pints.

 

[Craigerrr]

Case in point would be the hazy style, best enjoyed fresh!

 

[Mike at Bay]

Update on my SNPA clone....

The sweetness has more or less dissipated. More bitterness is prevalent after a week and sufficient carbonation.

Pic below is my beer on the left and the Real SNPA on the right. Mine has a haze to it but as for the taste test...They are close....not the same but close. A little more bite to the commercial beer.

I will brew this again this coming week. Will change two things....I will be using my tap water with additions that will give me a higher SO4 to CL ratio 3:1ish.

Thanks to all for the advice.

 

[J A]

This is pretty typical...most home-brewed beer is less than clear compared to "factory" beer, primarily because many commercial beers are filtered. At very least they use brite tanks to allow full flocculation before packaging or moving to serving tanks.
If you're patient, it'll probably clear completely but then the hop presence can fade.
Since you're kegging, it's not hard to get it nice and clear in fairly short order. Along with a good dose of whirl-floc in the boil and a good cold-crash, keg it with some bio-fine so it clears in the keg quicker. It makes a big difference. There are those who'll say that it doesn't have to be clear but it's just more aesthetically pleasing when a style that's supposed to be clear is actually clear.

 

[Brew Cat]

Most of us, even after years of experience, get impatient and want to assess our beers as soon as they're drinkable. Some styles lend themselves to early sampling and are best or better when consumed soon after fermentation. I've found time after time that when I sample as soon as I get relatively clear beer running, I have to take into account what likely changes will occur in the first week or two in the keg.
Lagers, of course only get really good when you're down to the last few pints.

That's the truth
Even though I taste early I can usually assess where it's going
Takes practice
Never judge a beer before it's time