Fermentation stop to fast (2nd time 2nd bach)

How is the beer?
Beer taste good BUT, is not to hopy i think the bags i used on boiling for hops was to small, the taste not passed to the beer.
Also have a taste of alcohol i think this needs little time more
I dry hop 2 days ago, to give extra flavour but bitterness is not what I wanted to be any way
Sure thing is that there is not any infection until now
Check this photo for my hop bags
IMG_20240423_150026.jpg
 
I think there is not alot of flow from the bags, and wort didn't take all those need to take form hops
 
You can put the hop in loose if you are not too worried about the amount of trub.
 
You can put the hop in loose if you are not too worried about the amount of trub.
Because of biab (i think) i have a lot of trub i wanted to reduce it because i want to reuse yeast or at least I want to try it
But as i see now i think on next batch i will not use same bags probably i will not use them at all.
I tried to recirculating wort back in the bag but is not working, at least to me.
Next brew I'm preparing a Falce bottom for my pot i will try to recirculating for cleaner wort
Any way all those are ideas i make to improve my method and planing next brew
 
Beer taste good BUT, is not to hopy i think the bags i used on boiling for hops was to small, the taste not passed to the beer.
Also have a taste of alcohol i think this needs little time more
I dry hop 2 days ago, to give extra flavour but bitterness is not what I wanted to be any way
Sure thing is that there is not any infection until now
Check this photo for my hop bags
View attachment 29254
When you first posted that picture I thought the hop bags looked pretty well stuffed. You want the hops loose to expose as much surface area as possible to the wort. So get a really big bag so the hops can float loose inside the bag. Or look into a hop spider, which is basically a mesh canister that sits in the wort during the boil.

To increase hop bitterness you can:
1) Add more hops at the beginning of the boil
2) Boil longer
3) Change to a hop with a higher AA.
4) Any combination of the above.
 
Hops expand pretty significantly when they absorb liquid, those bags may be too small.
 
Because of biab (i think) i have a lot of trub i wanted to reduce it because i want to reuse yeast or at least I want to try it
But as i see now i think on next batch i will not use same bags probably i will not use them at all.
I tried to recirculating wort back in the bag but is not working, at least to me.
Next brew I'm preparing a Falce bottom for my pot i will try to recirculating for cleaner wort
Any way all those are ideas i make to improve my method and planing next brew
I do biab as well.
Trub is no real issue. It will settle at the bottom of the fermenter.
I re-use trub and no problem there either.
But you can just put your hops in the biab bag if you want and see if that works
(After mash is done, you pull out grains. Empty bag, wuick rinse and use for hop)
 
I do biab as well.
Trub is no real issue. It will settle at the bottom of the fermenter.
I re-use trub and no problem there either.
But you can just put your hops in the biab bag if you want and see if that works
(After mash is done, you pull out grains. Empty bag, wuick rinse and use for hop)
Why are you reuse trub?
Is easy process to separate it?
I will need some help wen time comes (probably i will start a new thread)
I have already watched videos and make some research about, but I'm sure wen time comes many things will go bad.
All my previous batches I had no refrigerator so i was not crash cold, i throw away a lot of beer.
This one I will crash cold so i hope I can reach the numbers of liters I want
 
This is the hops bag I use, almost 1 liter. After brewing, it is nearly one-third-full. This is 35 grams of hops.

Trub is a mixture of hops, grain and, after fermentation, yeast. @Zambi uses the 'dirty' yeast from the fermenter more than once. This is perfectly ok. The other stuff that is not yeast is not harmful.

But I think you are meaning trub from the boil. This is also not harmful, but I try to leave most of it in the boil pot, and keep it out of the fermenter. I think my beer is clearer because of that, but I may be just dreaming.

D4134261-58A9-4812-817F-750FB8B80B45.jpeg
 
Yep
As Don says, I re-use trub for a new batch.
With the trub containing almost all of the hot break, sometimes hop, sometimes not
 
Yep
As Don says, I re-use trub for a new batch.
With the trub containing almost all of the hot break, sometimes hop, sometimes not
How many times is a safe number to reuse Same yeast?
 
How many times is a safe number to reuse Same yeast?
I would say no more than 3 times. the risk for mutation and stressed yeast is too high IMHO past that
 
I do 2 or 3 beers and then a simple cider.
By then there is so much trub, I discard it and clean.
My ciders are much better on the trub, compared to "new" yeast.
I think it is because of the bit of beer and unfermentable sugars in the trub
 
That's sounds very interesting, I mean cider making.
 
That's sounds very interesting, I mean cider making.
I buy apple juice from Aldi (US $1 for 2 liters) and remove maybe a half glass. Then I just throw maybe 15 grams 'trub' in, put the cap on loosely, and ignore it for 10 days. 2 liters cider for under a Euro.
 
I've also learned many things from Primitive Cider thread. I buy 3 gallons of kroger brand cider (pasteurized with vitamin C) and ferment with Lutra kveik. I also add yeast nutrient and calcium chloride. Lately I've diluted with 0.5-0.75 gallons of water to make a more "sessionable" cider
 
I've also learned many things from Primitive Cider thread. I buy 3 gallons of kroger brand cider (pasteurized with vitamin C) and ferment with Lutra kveik. I also add yeast nutrient and calcium chloride. Lately I've diluted with 0.5-0.75 gallons of water to make a more "sessionable" cider
yeast nutrient really helps, it's always been in my schedule
 
Sounds very very easy,
I will try it for sure, carbonating Same as beer?
 

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