Water Treatment

[LEOPARDA]

The following question might seem silly, but the more I learn, the more questions I have. What's your process for adjusting your water?
I usually do my calculations with the water calculator and select the option to add the salts only during the mash. This way, I add all the salts to my mash water, and I only adjust the pH of the sparge water.

However, I noticed that whether or not I select this option doesn't change the salt concentration or the pH of the mash. Expanding the "mash water before dough in" section, I realized that the concentration of my salts during the mash is actually much higher! (I'm not sure if this explains why the acid addition calculations from the calculator always give me a higher amount; that is, I always have to add less acid than calculated, otherwise the pH drops too low.
Now, I don't know if it's best to add the salts to all my water in the HLT, or separate the additions, one part to the mash and the other part to the kettle. This leads me to wonder, is the concentration of the ions only important in the mash or also in the final wort before fermentation?

I also don't quite understand why BrunWater's acid estimate is always lower than what the Brewers Friend calculator indicates.)

 

[Yooper]

The following question might seem silly, but the more I learn, the more questions I have. What's your process for adjusting your water?
I usually do my calculations with the water calculator and select the option to add the salts only during the mash. This way, I add all the salts to my mash water, and I only adjust the pH of the sparge water.

However, I noticed that whether or not I select this option doesn't change the salt concentration or the pH of the mash. Expanding the "mash water before dough in" section, I realized that the concentration of my salts during the mash is actually much higher! (I'm not sure if this explains why the acid addition calculations from the calculator always give me a higher amount; that is, I always have to add less acid than calculated, otherwise the pH drops too low.
Now, I don't know if it's best to add the salts to all my water in the HLT, or separate the additions, one part to the mash and the other part to the kettle. This leads me to wonder, is the concentration of the ions only important in the mash or also in the final wort before fermentation?

I also don't quite understand why BrunWater's acid estimate is always lower than what the Brewers Friend calculator indicates.)

Think of salts as "seasoning", not for pH control although many salts do impact the mash pH (and wort pH) slightly.
Acid is generally what is used to lower pH in brewing.

You do care about the pH of the wort, as it should drop during the boil but the yeast will adjust the pH on their own as well. Of course, dropping the pH too low with additions will usually affect the flavor of the finished beer with a tartness.

If you use the water calculator and add salts only to the mash, you should get a good prediction of the mash pH if you check the box. But if you are sparging and aren't adding alkalinity, you can add the salts to all of the water if that's easier.

 

[Donoroto]

The ions in the mash are what is important, as is the pH of the sparge.

The ions interact with the grain (and yeast, later) so you want them there. Sparge pH is inly a problem if it is too high - but most waters have a very low buffering capacity, meaning pH is not resistant to change.

In my 5 gallon batches, I start with 8 gallons, add salts and acid (sometimes) to the whole volume, then draw off 2 gallons for the sparge. That works for me, but your method is fine as well.

 

[BarbarianBrewer]

I usually do my calculations with the water calculator and select the option to add the salts only during the mash. This way, I add all the salts to my mash water, and I only adjust the pH of the sparge water.

This is exactly what I do. I acidify both the strike and sparge water but only add minerals to the strike water. I link to the mash calculator and add my acids and minerals there. That does change mineral & pH levels. I've never opened the "Mash Water Report Before Dough-In" section, so I can't help you there.

 

[StephenT]

This Friday will only be the second one time I have adjusted my water, the first was 2 months ago after 7 years away from the brew kettle. I can't say what I did was right. In fact reading afterwards, I should have adjusted the initial pH prior to bringing my mash water up to temperature. While mashing, the pH got too low, so I had to go back and adjust it with baking soda. This time around I have spent much more time, reading up on the water and attempting to calculate what I need to hit my goals. Thankfully I am using reverse osmosis water, which makes things a but easier. Looking forward to how this next batch comes out.

 

[Minbari]

Don't know if this was mentioned, but you have to know what your water has in it before adding more . So if you use tap water, get a water report done.

I use RO and start from scratch for every style. Just easier IMHO

 

[Brew Cat]

well if your only brewing occasionally and don't mind buying water buy spring water and add 1/2 teaspoon lactic acid for light beer and none for dark
cellar Science sells pre mixed salt packets you add to distilled or RO water

 

[Craigerrr]

This Friday will only be the second one time I have adjusted my water, the first was 2 months ago after 7 years away from the brew kettle. I can't say what I did was right. In fact reading afterwards, I should have adjusted the initial pH prior to bringing my mash water up to temperature. While mashing, the pH got too low, so I had to go back and adjust it with baking soda. This time around I have spent much more time, reading up on the water and attempting to calculate what I need to hit my goals. Thankfully I am using reverse osmosis water, which makes things a but easier. Looking forward to how this next batch comes out.

You should not adjust your starting water pH. You did the right thing by adjusting your mash pH. If you added lactic acid to your strike water reduce it next time and see what the result is. Typically you will need to add acid to lighter colored beers to lower mash pH, and baking soda to raise mash pH in dark beers.

 

[Brew Cat]

really adjusting water should be down on the list if you are only brewing occasionally unless your tap water is really bad
adjusting water is not going to miraculously make bad beer great. That said usually less is more so adjust your total water in your HLT and move on
if your using one of the all in one things and want to sparge you will need to draw some water off before you mash in and heat separately or cold water sparge.
disclaimer: I have never cold water sparged but Ive heard of it. I know some people don't sparge and say they get great results so you can do full volume mash and no sparge if you want

 

[Craigerrr]

really adjusting water should be down on the list if you are only brewing occasionally unless your tap water is really bad
adjusting water is not going to miraculously make bad beer great. That said usually less is more so adjust your total water in your HLT and move on
if your using one of the all in one things and want to sparge you will need to draw some water off before you mash in and heat separately or cold water sparge.
disclaimer: I have never cold water sparged but Ive heard of it. I know some people don't sparge and say they get great results so you can do full volume mash and no sparge if you want

All good thoughts. Water adjustments aren't rocket surgery, and, at least to me, no different than adjusting malt percentages, or timing of hop additions.
I think of adjusting water, more as adding seasoning.
When I first started into water treatment there were a lot of people trying to discourage me from doing it, and I recall talk of "that rabbit hole", but it really isn't all that complex.
Adjusting water profile for mash pH can, or not, can have an impact on the finished product.