Sparge/recirculation arms

I made mine out of copper and then drilled holes in it. Then backfilled half the holes since i have crap water pressure lol.
 
Bigbre04 said:
Do you know what the threads are on this bad larry? I might need to remake my sparge setup.

how much area does it cover when spraying?
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1/2" locknut according to the video. You can find the spread covareg in some youtube videos too - easily covers the small brewzilla and I imagine your pump pressure will dictate the spray diameter.

 
I do a constant whirlpool recirculation 1" above the grain so it finds its own path down
 
Blackmuse said:
No need. They make a sparge spreader: "Sarge" - $9.99 (see photo and follow link: https://www.morebeer.com/products/kegland-sergeant-sparge-head-wort-speader-aerator.html )
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If I had known about that I would have ordered it, dang. Not going to pop for another shipping charge.
I will make the one I ordered work "one way or another" Just like good old Deborah Harry!

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I like the mounting to the lid deal, might have to DIY that too when I get the bits I ordered in hand.
Might just use my stainless lid with the TC connection instead of the glass lid.
 
Megary said:
I have no idea what a Sparge arm is, but CPVC (not PVC) has the temperature range you are looking for.

As an aside and with no intentions of sidetracking here, but does your Mash tun hold temperature constant? Is it even necessary to recirculate and Sparge? I’m honestly curious. What’s the gain…the cost-benefit ratio? I swear that I’m not trying to be a jerk (at least, this time). ;) As a simple BIAB’er, I‘m just trying to understand. Are there clear differences between a beer mashed and left alone vs. one mashed, recirculated and rinsed? I find this stuff fascinating.
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Sparging is the process of spraying hot liquor (brewing water) over the grain bed to rinse off more of the sugars and other substances extracted from the crushed grains to improve efficiency. If your process provides more sugars for the yeast to eat on, then less grain is needed to achieve the same ABV.

Also, the water to grist ratios and temps can be varied to achieve more or less fermentability of the wort which the affects the body of the beer, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to give you a good explanation for that.

That said, I brewed porters and stouts using BIAB for years with good results. Could I have got better efficiency with sparging. But for a few five gallon batches a year the increase in cost is less than you'd spend for a meal out with a date.
 
Bigbre04 said:
those things are so useful! we used those to aim our air knives on the canning line and to aim our twist rinse sprayers!
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And they really stay put. Not hard to move em, but they don't wander
 
Since you're looking into sparge arms and might stumple on the Blichman Autosparge, I have one and I don't recommend it. Not trying to disparage it, its just not all that.
So I'm following this thread for ideas what to replace it with.
 

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MikeyMike said:
Since you're looking into sparge arms and might stumple on the Blichman Autosparge, I have one and I don't recommend it. Not trying to disparage it, its just not all that.
So I'm following this thread for ideas what to replace it with.
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Looks quite technical for a sparge arm
 
MikeyMike said:
Since you're looking into sparge arms and might stumple on the Blichman Autosparge, I have one and I don't recommend it. Not trying to disparage it, its just not all that.
So I'm following this thread for ideas what to replace it with.
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So it has a float switch to cut it when the water reaches a specific height? Im not sure why you would need that for sparging, but it would be useful for a lot of other applications.
 
Bigbre04 said:
So it has a float switch to cut it when the water reaches a specific height? Im not sure why you would need that for sparging, but it would be useful for a lot of other applications.
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I think it was designed for recirc use. Supposed to cut off the pump before you overflow your mash pot.
 
Minbari said:
I think it was designed for recirc use. Supposed to cut off the pump before you overflow your mash pot.
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your volume shouldnt change if you are doing a standard recirc right? i could see it being for batch sparging though.
 
Bigbre04 said:
your volume shouldnt change if you are doing a standard recirc right? i could see it being for batch sparging though.
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Technically yes, but if you have a 7 gallon pot, 5 gallon of liquid, you can pump out under the bag or false bottom faster than it drains. I have nearly overflowed many times
 
It will not shut a pump off, so I gravity fed from hlt. You put it in your mash tun to maintain a 1 to 2 inch amount of sparge water above the mash.
 
MikeyMike said:
Since you're looking into sparge arms and might stumple on the Blichman Autosparge, I have one and I don't recommend it. Not trying to disparage it, its just not all that.
So I'm following this thread for ideas what to replace it with.
Click to expand...
I have one and used it to fly sparge for years, it does have a learning curve
 
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