Hello Beginners!

Always a plus to have more of us around.
 
Hi everyone from Turkey!

First of all, thank you for such a supportive forum topic.

I have brewed more than 20 kits until today. However, I haven't brewed any all grain yet.

I have just gathered all my equipment for all grain completely. I have a 10 gallon igloo cooler with a 10" bazooka in it for mash tun, 50 lt boiling kettle (thanks to keg to kettle conversion) with a 4500w heating element in it and also a 20-litre pot with a 4500w heating element in it for HLT.

I've chosen my first recipe. It is Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Clone. It seems to be a simple and delicious recipe for a starter. I have all the ingredients and ready to go.

What I don't understand from the recipe is that it indicates that I should use 5 gallons for rest and than 5 gallon for sparge. 153 F for the rest and 168 F for the sparge. However, it also indicates a mash-out rest at 170 F.

Here are my questions for batch sparging:
-I suppose that I will add hot water for mash-out. Let's say it I add 2 litres of boiling water (I hope there are calculators for this) and made the temp 168 F. Should I deduct this amount from the sparge water?

-Should I worlauf before adding mash-out water and 10 minutes after adding the mash-out water before taking the first savings?

-I suppose that I will lauter after mash-out. Should I begin boiling with first savings before lautering sparge water?

Thank you for your support and sorry for a long post!
 
Last edited:
Hi everyone,

I'm new to all this and my first experience with 20l IPA worked rather well, but I've had some trouble with my second batch. I cooked an Irish Stout recipee and I'm having problems lowering the final gravity. It should be something like 1.009 and after two weeks it has stopped at 1.019. I'm afraid the problem might be I didn't properly oxigenate (bad planning, too much hurry...). My question is: what should I do? Bottle all the same? Wait? Add more yeast?

Thanks in advance!
 
Hi everyone from Turkey!

First of all, thank you for such a supportive forum topic.

I have brewed more than 20 kits until today. However, I haven't brewed any all grain yet.

I have just gathered all my equipment for all grain completely. I have a 10 gallon igloo cooler with a 10" bazooka in it for mash tun, 50 lt boiling kettle (thanks to keg to kettle conversion) with a 4500w heating element in it and also a 20-litre pot with a 4500w heating element in it for HLT.

I've chosen my first recipe. It is Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Clone. It seems to be a simple and delicious recipe for a starter. I have all the ingredients and ready to go.

What I don't understand from the recipe is that it indicates that I should use 5 gallons for rest and than 5 gallon for sparge. 153 F for the rest and 168 F for the sparge. However, it also indicates a mash-out rest at 170 F.

Here are my questions for batch sparging:
-I suppose that I will add hot water for mash-out. Let's say it I add 2 litres of boiling water (I hope there are calculators for this) and made the temp 168 F. Should I deduct this amount from the sparge water?

-Should I worlauf before adding mash-out water and 10 minutes after adding the mash-out water before taking the first savings?

-I suppose that I will lauter after mash-out. Should I begin boiling with first savings before lautering sparge water?

Thank you for your support and sorry for a long post!
First off welcome . Secondly thats Ozarks recipie hes probably best in tune with that recipie and probably more experience to answer your all grain brew technique. But ill give you my take anyhow:). The (Savings) are runnings in brew lingo first runnings being first draw from the mash tun second runnings second ect. I Biab so mash water and Sparge water are all combined in same vessal.

The 5 gallon rest is the mash or strike water volumes use the software here to valculate temperature so you hit required mash temp. Mash for given mash length as per recipie then run this off into your kettle ( first runnings) its up to you if you want to vurlof or however its spelt. Then you sparge your grains at 168 so youve gotta heat 5 gal in a separate pot to 168 and run (sparge) this through your grainbed. For first time you will probably batch sparge this volume by dumping the lot into the mash tun mixing resetting the grain bed and then running this off into your boil kettle. As for raising that mash further to 170 mash out i wouldnt bother youll kill them enzymes in the boil anyhow but thats just me.

I hope i havnt confused you by any of this drawl :D.
 
Hi everyone,

I'm new to all this and my first experience with 20l IPA worked rather well, but I've had some trouble with my second batch. I cooked an Irish Stout recipee and I'm having problems lowering the final gravity. It should be something like 1.009 and after two weeks it has stopped at 1.019. I'm afraid the problem might be I didn't properly oxigenate (bad planning, too much hurry...). My question is: what should I do? Bottle all the same? Wait? Add more yeast?

Thanks in advance!
Raise ferment temp give the fermentation vessal a swirl if you can first. This will hopefully rouse the yeast and get them going again. Youve taken gravity readings and they havnt budged after 3 days?
 
Hi Quick Question,

I just did a 3-gallon brew and when I bought the yeast, the employee told me that a standard packet of yeast is for a 5-gallon brew. Should I just do a 3/5 packet for a 3 gallon, 2/5 packet for a 2 gallon..? ect..
 
Hey Nosybear

Just wanted to say thanks for starting this category!

There is clearly a need out there and you are getting plenty of support from our experienced members.

Thanks again and hope you are welcoming of a deserving shout-out.
 
Hi Quick Question,

I just did a 3-gallon brew and when I bought the yeast, the employee told me that a standard packet of yeast is for a 5-gallon brew. Should I just do a 3/5 packet for a 3 gallon, 2/5 packet for a 2 gallon..? ect..

I'd pitch the whole packet. But I does depend on what yeast for what brew... Still I'd pitch the lot:).

See you keep that idy bidy bit of yeast back your under pitching your next batch so you've gotta buy a pack per brew unless your considering harvesting the yeast. Plus how do you measure out the 3/5th buy weight?

Good luck mate maybe someone else will have a better answer.
 
I have a question about BIAB and water size:

How much water should I be adding for a typical 5% alcohol, 5 Gallon(finished) batch? I've researched multiple sites and they're all different, but most suggested roughly 7.5 +/- gallons, but Brewersfriend suggested 8.33 gallons. It's a pretty big disparity.
I should note that i'm adding an extra pound of base malt to account for losses through BIAB.
 
It really depends on your efficiency. I like to have 7.25 gallons at the start of the boil, with a 3/4 gallon boil off during the hour. If I finish the boil with 6.5 gallons, I can rack to secondary and rack to keg and have it be full, or a jar or two more than full.
 
It really depends on your efficiency. I like to have 7.25 gallons at the start of the boil, with a 3/4 gallon boil off during the hour. If I finish the boil with 6.5 gallons, I can rack to secondary and rack to keg and have it be full, or a jar or two more than full.
I'd be guessing around 75% efficiency which is the average for BIAB.
If it was 6.5 gallons post-boil, wouldn't it be diluted? Don't I want to aim for 5.5 gallons post-boil?
 
Depends how much you want, 23L is around 6 gallons, 19L is 5 gallons, I generally aim for around 21L these days which is roughly 5.5 gallons as I lose 2-3L to trub after fermentation which basically gives me exactly a kegs worth.

You can make a batch any size you want, people just tend to pick those sizes as the carboys are around that size.

The more you boil off the stronger it will be, but you can account for that in extra grain instead if you want. It's all just ratios really.
 
I design my BIAB recipes to yield 6.5 gallons post boil. That’s because I have a lot of trub in the kettle when the boil is done. I leave it behind as much as possible. I’d say about 5 3/4 gallons gets siphoned to the primary. When that’s done, about 5 1/4 gallons makes it to secondary. When I package, I’m left with a bit over 5 gallons of beer for the keg and mason jars for recipes calling for warm flat beer.
 
Depends how much you want, 23L is around 6 gallons, 19L is 5 gallons, I generally aim for around 21L these days which is roughly 5.5 gallons as I lose 2-3L to trub after fermentation which basically gives me exactly a kegs worth.

You can make a batch any size you want, people just tend to pick those sizes as the carboys are around that size.

The more you boil off the stronger it will be, but you can account for that in extra grain instead if you want. It's all just ratios really.
Thanks.
 
I design my BIAB recipes to yield 6.5 gallons post boil. That’s because I have a lot of trub in the kettle when the boil is done. I leave it behind as much as possible. I’d say about 5 3/4 gallons gets siphoned to the primary. When that’s done, about 5 1/4 gallons makes it to secondary. When I package, I’m left with a bit over 5 gallons of beer for the keg and mason jars for recipes calling for warm flat beer.
Thanks.
 
Any suggestions for doing 5 gallon batches of BIAB by electric stovetop?

The first one I did took 9 hours from start to finish: it was a gentle boil and took FOREVER to reach boil-level.
The second batch I did was a partial-boil(?) and then I topped up the fermenter to the recommended level with Distilled water, BUT my a.b.v. was off by 40%(it was supposed to be a malty 7.5%, but came in at 4.5%).

I'm thinking of using both stove elements this time and cutting the amount of water I put into the fermenter.
Any other suggestions? They would be greatly appreciated.
 
I use propane so I can't really help you there.
 
Any suggestions for doing 5 gallon batches of BIAB by electric stovetop?

The first one I did took 9 hours from start to finish: it was a gentle boil and took FOREVER to reach boil-level.
The second batch I did was a partial-boil(?) and then I topped up the fermenter to the recommended level with Distilled water, BUT my a.b.v. was off by 40%(it was supposed to be a malty 7.5%, but came in at 4.5%).

I'm thinking of using both stove elements this time and cutting the amount of water I put into the fermenter.
Any other suggestions? They would be greatly appreciated.
Perhaps invest in an immersion heater, to use in combination with your stovetop?
 
Concentrated wort. I don't know what it would do to the calculations or efficiencies but limit your boil size to three gallons and dilute the concentrated wort with water to make 5 gallons.
 

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