@RoadRoach A typical Tilt appearance after a fermentation. It read a solid 1.016, but my hydrometer showed 1.021. Note the krausen coating, and sorry for the inverted image.
The model numbers are different country by country, but what you describe would have been the equivalent of the BX series here. Not much bigger than a riding mower, but built a lot heavier. They even build that little fella with a backhoe and loader. Then comes the B series, which was a little confusing. That frame size crosses into the 30+ horsepower range. A B2680 is HUGE compared to a B2601. The one I have is the LX series, sort of the 'mini-me' for the L series. However, this version, the SU, is slightly larger than the smallest L, and has the same horse power, better maneuverability, and a lot of improvements over the older L series. The SU is the "Standard Utility" model, sort of a stripped down version without some of the bells and whistles like tilt steering wheel, deluxe seat with arm rests, mid-mount PTO. Knocks about $4K off the price, but it's actually set up better if I want to add a backhoe to it down the road. This is actually still considered a compact tractor because of the HP rating and track width (42.5 inches). The BX and lower end B's are sub-compacts.That's a Kubota?
I used to drive some wee mini versions of this when I was working stone fruit picking.
Not much bigger than a ride on lawn mower it was but could tow a tun of peaches!
How can anything that tastes so good have stuff that nasty looking in it, right?@RoadRoach A typical Tilt appearance after a fermentation. It read a solid 1.016, but my hydrometer showed 1.021. Note the krausen coating, and sorry for the inverted image.
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No, I've never even thought to do that. I'm fairly sure whatever was in the fermentor got itself into the keg unchanged.Do you pull a sample from the keg after racking to check SG?
I was more thinking about the homogeneity of the beer. Sure, it all makes it into the keg or bottling bucket, with a lot of care not to disturb the trub or aerate the beer. But, even without aeration, there is liquid movement, ergo, mixing to make it more homogenous. That's why I was suggesting taking the FG reading from the keg to compare with the Tilt. Just a curiosity thing, really.No, I've never even thought to do that. I'm fairly sure whatever was in the fermentor got itself into the keg unchanged.
There's some vitality starters that will run longer than the process I use, but if I've got some slurry that's been hanging around for 1-2 months I'll take 500 mL at the end of the mash and chill it down. Then I'll add my slurry to the half litre. That once the temperature has settled and the various thermometers are agreeing I'll add that to the fermenter. It's generally 2-4 hours later. I find it really cuts down the lag time.
I'm gonna try "feeding" one of the slurry jars that have been in the fridge for a few months with some dme and see how that works. Based on Brulosophy's podcast, this should allow me some more time between batches with this Wyeast 1315That's what vitality starter means to me.