Got My Water Profile, Now What?

That's what I figured. With 10ml of Lactic I get to this. To get to 5.4ph I go way low on alkalinity.

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https://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/?id=W518XTX

I think I'm actually starting to understand how this works, I definitely appreciate the patience.
 
The fun part is I'm trying to recreate this in Bru'n water and I make it mad. I noticed its -.93 on Brewers Friend as well but it doesn't seem to care as much.
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Don't worry about the residual alkalinity. Light beers are commonly in negative numbers there. What matters is the mash pH. Nothing else (unless you're adding so much salts that your beer comes out like mineral water). Go ahead and lower it to 5.3 and see how it comes out. Lots of jargon about buffers and weak acids and so forth but ultimately a negative residual alkalinity isn't a bad thing.
 
Huh, I get nervous when the angry red shows up.
 
For example...
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Theres a great beer name Angry Red Ale! Ah your a laugh Hawkbox puts my mind at ease that negative alkalinity is ok as most my brews are in negative territory in that department. I always try to get me sulphate to chloride right then lower ph using acid.

Thats as far down the water wormhole ive gone...
 
Ah! I get it now! Low bicarbonate, who cares? Are you selecting a target style? If so, it's just telling you that, in this case, you're way below what the target calls for. I generally never concern myself with target water. So here's how you get around that number, if it's bothering you: Add your bicarbonate to the kettle. Controlling the mash pH is why we do the initial load of salts and acids. I don't even worry about the sparge any more, a bit of metabisulfite to get rid of the chlorine and in it goes. My salts and acids to control the mash go into the first strike water. Bicarbonate doesn't really affect the mash that much once you've overcome the alkalinity, which is what is important to us. Your priorities when it comes to water are first, chlorine. Second, enough calcium (50 ppm or more). Third, chloride to sulfate ratio according to desired outcome (malty vs bitter), although that can be adjusted in the kettle, the enzymes don't care. Lastly, getting the water "to style." Again, this can be done in the kettle or even at bottling. About the only way I see you could bring your bicarbonate up to style without throwing other ions out of balance is to use potassium bicarbonate, available as a wine treatment to reduce acidity.
 
That isn't the water style I'm using today, it was one I was trying to work on the other day and scared myself.

It's interesting, the same numbers hare and in Bru'n Water put out different results.
 
In my 3rd year of homebrewing, moved from extract, to all grain BIAB and now onto a grainfather. At a recent local homebrew meet up, a suggestion to improve my beer was to look at my water profile.

Apparently where I live the water is lacking in minerals and can contribute to 'flat' tasting beers.

I have my water profile from Yorkshire Water, which annoying ommits the Sulfate and Bicarbonate measurements - will this be a big issue?

So what am I comparing it too and aiming for? I realise the target will vary on the style of beer, so lets say I'm predominantly making pale ales and ambers - up to SRM 16.
 
Sulfate is a flavor ion. You can deduct bicarbonate from total hardness or alkalinity. They should have given you one of those. To be effective at manipulating your water, you need to understand the concept of residual alkalinity and for that, there are lots of references to be read and it would take me too long to explain, sorry to have to give you a "read the f***ing manual" answer. Ambers work well with moderately hard water (the kind I have flowing from my tap). Water's a tough subject, perhaps the toughest in practical brewing.
 
For me I simplify the water treatment to a few steps (the water here is slightly hard and has bugger all minerals):
  • Make sure I've got a bit of calcium sulfate and/or calcium chloride to help the microbes grow
  • Do I want an obvious hoppy bitterness in the beer? If I do adjust the calcium sulpate so that there's more of that than calcium chloride. Or if i want the bitterness dulled down I do the opposite. Though more often I keep them balanced.
  • Have a look at water profiles and maybe add some other salts for sodium or magnesium and suspect I'm making no difference at the batch sizes I'm doing (as there's probably enough from the grains)
  • 5 minutes after mash starts check the pH and adjust with phosphoric to somewhere near 5.4 (this needs a pH meter, which luckily the wife has bought for other pursuits). I'm not that fussy, plus or minus a few decimal points is good enough.
 
I'm still figuring out what the best options are for different things. Like a Pub Ale, or an Irish Red what kind of profile I need. But I'm definitely getting more of a feel for it.
 
Happy to see this thread has provided some valuable info for others regarding water profiles and the calculator. I've read more into it and I think I'm understanding it a bit more! Below is a link to my water calculation. Hoping to get some feedback on a) whether I did it correctly and b) my additions. Brew day is planned for Sunday!

https://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/?id=204QLHY
 
Happy to see this thread has provided some valuable info for others regarding water profiles and the calculator. I've read more into it and I think I'm understanding it a bit more! Below is a link to my water calculation. Hoping to get some feedback on a) whether I did it correctly and b) my additions. Brew day is planned for Sunday!

https://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/?id=204QLHY
your very high in salt, this is good for darker beers but nothing light or pale
 

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