That was exactly my point. I've probably been avoiding some good high IBU beers simply because I thought it meant they were earwax juice. Trying to broaden my horizons.
First Small Batch Smash
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Ibus are a shit shoot is what I've been finding out lately also depends on what scale you use Tinsenth -Rager ( mo
Actually listening to a podcast yesterday from brulab where this guy has shown large cold side dry hop amounts can actually absorb iso alpha acids (introduced on the hot side )and actually reduce bitterness.
Also percieved bitterness and measured bitterness are two sepperate things iso humulone (also i herd oxidised alpha acids )in dry hops imparting also a .66% increase in bitterness giving reference to purported bitterness from large dry hop amounts being a real measured thing!
Dont quote me on this havd a listen to find out for yourself i think its pretty Cool.
That's where I always rekon let your pallet decide for you and adjust hop amounts next brew to compensate
Link to study on IBUs
https://open.spotify.com/episode/6J...i=o3oTvHd6QLeOzIlR6mxXzw&utm_source=copy-link
Link to dry hopping reducing bitterness
https://open.spotify.com/episode/3N...i=XPlpMtpmTYixMvpzkrYdXQ&utm_source=copy-link
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Exactly. Your preaching to the choir, brother!
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That hop absorbtion thing was cool apparently they found that the leaf matter in the hops absorbed the isomorised alpha acids in the beer in the dry hop also ontop of this low hot side ibu beers below 35ibus tended to have a greater increase in post boil cold side dry hop bitterness from iso humulone in the hops these being .66% as bitter as alpha acids at 1 ibu so as a rule of thumb what old mate found through his calculations was in dry hopped ibu predictions (let's sat from brewersfriend calc here) that the actual percieved bitterness works out to be half the actual number of ibus.
So if you DH additions in the calc says you'll increase 30ibu think of it as a 15ibu contribution to bitterness.
Another thing is all this iso co humulone bitterness contribution is on the cold side so for me using the no chill method my hop stand is hot side as would be a traditional Whirlpooled addition (not counted in the calculation).
I've probably got a bit of this arse (especially that low ibu thing i dont fully understand that) about but I'm sure you'll he hearing and reading more about it in brewing circles...
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If you are using a traditional, one vessel BIIB set your efficiency lower, more like low to mid 60s. Make sure you have your mash temperatures correct. You can do that by hearting strike water to a certain temp using a strike water calculator and a decent thermometer. It will fall when you add grain. Mash in so you have no clumps. Put the top on the kettle and maybe a towel to seal in the heat. Let it sit for an hour while you drink a beer. The WLP001 is a good choice. If you want dry yeast, S-05 will also work well for that. I would also take a temperature reading after the mash so you know how well kettle held heat for future batches.
My example of a full volume boil for 5 gallons in a humid climate:
I start with 8 gallons of strike water. After the mash and draining the bag, I have 7 gallons. After the boil, I have 6 gallons. I can put 5.5 in the fermenter from that if I want. You will be a little different because of altitude and humidity.
My example of a full volume boil for 5 gallons in a humid climate:
I start with 8 gallons of strike water. After the mash and draining the bag, I have 7 gallons. After the boil, I have 6 gallons. I can put 5.5 in the fermenter from that if I want. You will be a little different because of altitude and humidity.
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Ummm, yup, why do we need more than one way to measure something if they give us different numbers for the taste buds?
Now this is good info. So, bittering with one hop and dry hopping with a different one could actually prove useful for getting a hop taste that isn't affected by boil, other than perhaps too much bittering in the boil. Perceived bitterness is a VERY subjective matter, too. Some brews I make the missus says are way too bitter. I don't get the same reaction. She still smokes, though, and I know that a lot of things tasted bitter to me when I smoked. I'm guessing because the smoking probably de-sensitized the taste buds at the front and top of the tongue, (sour and some sweet) leaving the bitter tasting buds on the sides bored and overactive. Since I quit (10/10/2009, which is the same no matter which continent your on), a lot of things taste different. Some things I used to love, not so much now. Overbearing flavors. Other things I didn't like at all, well, I'm more receptive now. Strange.
This is pointing at dry-hopping being so much more important for flavoring, which I think we all already knew. I know the first batch I did a dry-hop on was a little scary (putting things in the fermenter while the fermentation was still underway), but wow, what a difference in the taste of the hops. A little less like drinking battery acid and more like drinking a beer! I've also noticed, as my perception of bitterness goes up, I'm more likely to get reflux from it. That has to be some sort of reaction to the AA from bittering. But RARELY does the IBU number give me any indication about whether I'm gonna turn into a volcano or not. I had a 25 IBU beer rip me a new one, but a 45 that didn't bother me at all. Go figger.
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Isn't that where BU/GU comes in?
Bittering related to gravity?
Although even then, the hops make a difference. My saison with tradition/spalt, tasted not nearly as bitter as the one with Cascade only (same ibu, same timings of application, same malt, same mashing method, same same)
Bittering related to gravity?
Although even then, the hops make a difference. My saison with tradition/spalt, tasted not nearly as bitter as the one with Cascade only (same ibu, same timings of application, same malt, same mashing method, same same)
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Gravity does effect bitterness. Lower gravity beers will get better utilization of alpha acids. Higher gravity beers will not get as efficient utilization, plus the extra malt flavor seems to tone down the harshness.
Not all varieties of hops bitter the same. Although the calculator will show the same IBU’s between varieties, the beer may seem more bitter with certain hops. Noble hops like Tradition are known for a smoother bitterness. Cascade not so much.
I remember a little science experiment from 5th grade (but can’t remember what I did 5 minutes ago). The experiment was to demonstrate the location and interaction of taste buds along with olfactory sense. Bitter and sweet taste buds are on the side of the tongue back near the molars, and across the back. Sour at the tip of the tongue and salt on top. Sweet and bitter tastes can easily overpower each other, which is exactly why a BU/GU ratio makes perfect sense. Interaction with the olfactory can make an orange taste like lemon (or vice versa), or a pear like an apple. Was a fun experiment, and to me, kinda nullifies validity of “blind” taste testing for matching anything. Blind tasting is great for determining a personal preference, though. Sometimes I think even appearance can bias what we expect something to taste like.
