Final Gravity Misses High

Thanks for al the above replies!

I will be brewing this exact recipe in a couple of weeks and will certainly lower my mash temperature. I have been curious, though, if fermenting 2-1/2 gal of wort in a 5-6 gal fermenter would cause any trouble. I'm pretty sure the CO2 fills the entire space as oxygen bubbles out....but thought I would ask the gurus of BrewersFriend if this could cause any trouble at all.

Todd
The only time you need to minimize headspace is if you are moving the beer to a secondary vessel (for bulk aging or other purposes) because there likely won't be enough fermentation activity to consume the O2 introduced during the transfer. However if you flush the receiving vessel with CO2 and do a closed loop transfer then I don't think head space would be an issue there either.
 
@Dave Y
I'll check PH of the Ozarka on the next brew day. I also clean with PBW and use Star-San religiously. My only change on brew day next will be mashing in at a lower temp, 152*F as you suggest. I do want to add that the pre-conditioned beer did have a good flavor, though just a tad sweeter than I would like.

Todd
The pH of the water is not that important, as it has little buffering power: just a small amount of acid or base will change the pH easily and significantly.

Check online, Ozarka may publish the mineral content of their water.
 
@Dave Y , the way I handled the dark additions was to top up the late additions separately so that, when added, both the worts were the same gravity. The IBUs were diluted slightly in the darker beer but still in the proper range. End result was 2 worts, same OG, one all base malt (and mashed fairly low) and one with a fair percentage of less fermentable stuff.
 
The pH of the water is not that important, as it has little buffering power: just a small amount of acid or base will change the pH easily and significantly.

Check online, Ozarka may publish the mineral content of their water.
Absolutely, pH of beginning water is relatively inconsequential, I personally use acidulated malt to get the pH down into range in light colored beers. Usually only 20 to 80 grams, or less than 1% of the grist. In a dark beer, you typically need the opposite, baking soda will bring the pH up into range. I used under 4.8 grams in the stout I brewed recently
 
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I'd probably go with water next - go to distilled and add chemicals just like you would with R/O water and set the pH to between 5.2 - 5.4.
@Dave Y
I'll check PH of the Ozarka on the next brew day. I also clean with PBW and use Star-San religiously. My only change on brew day next will be mashing in at a lower temp, 152*F as you suggest. I do want to add that the pre-conditioned beer did have a good flavor, though just a tad sweeter than I would like.

Todd

I just want to clarify here that as others have pointed out, it's not so much the water you want to take the pH on, it's the wort ! A few minutes after mash in, get a sample, cool if you need to. I usually calibrate the meter while the sample is cooling because the service life of my meter is reduced with very hot samples. get your reading, adjust if necessary and go.

I suppose if your water was really far above 7.0, there could be an issue? but I doubt you'd find that with the water you're using.
 
I cracked open a bottle after chilling it in the fridge for a few days....Way too sweet! I can't drink it. Live and learn, I suppose. I appreciate all the input on this one. I have another batch fermenting right now. I'll keep y'all up to date.

Todd.....
 
I cracked open a bottle after chilling it in the fridge for a few days....Way too sweet! I can't drink it. Live and learn, I suppose. I appreciate all the input on this one. I have another batch fermenting right now. I'll keep y'all up to date.

Todd.....
We all drop one or two periodically. I did a 70 shilling ale a couple months back and everything went smoothly, so I though. I do a late addition of some dark malts- we're talking ... 4(?) ounces or so. I thought I did a late enough addition but I thought wrong. I put it back on the schedule a couple beers later and paid diligent attention to keep the dark malts in there no more than 20m. Score. Just the right amount of 'character'.

Good luck with the current brew.
 
@Dave Y
I'll check PH of the Ozarka on the next brew day. I also clean with PBW and use Star-San religiously. My only change on brew day next will be mashing in at a lower temp, 152*F as you suggest. I do want to add that the pre-conditioned beer did have a good flavor, though just a tad sweeter than I would like.

Todd

Generally, a finished gravity of 1.015 would not be sweet to the palate. But the recipe and hopping play a much greater role. The other thing that comes to mind to me as a beer judge is oxidation can present as a muted flavor, and a perceived sweetness (similar to sherry) in early oxidation.

And of course carbonation usually counteracts any sweetness that you may get in uncarbonated beer. The carbonic acid balances the sweet malt well. I just wonder if it’s more that the beer is underbittered and not really too high of a mash temp or finishing gravity.
 
Generally, a finished gravity of 1.015 would not be sweet to the palate. But the recipe and hopping play a much greater role. The other thing that comes to mind to me as a beer judge is oxidation can present as a muted flavor, and a perceived sweetness (similar to sherry) in early oxidation.

And of course carbonation usually counteracts any sweetness that you may get in uncarbonated beer. The carbonic acid balances the sweet malt well. I just wonder if it’s more that the beer is underbittered and not really too high of a mash temp or finishing gravity.
I can see this theory playing out. Where would oxidation most likely begin? I ferment in a bucket with airlock. I did remove the top at 10 days to take a gravity reading, making certain everything was sanitized, and then re-topped with the airlock until day 14 when bottling took place. For bottling, I siphoned from the fermenting bucket into a bottling bucket with the pre-measured corn sugar solution. Bottling and capping was complete within an hour.

I appreciate your expertise!

Todd
 
It would most likely be during bottling. Even if your being gentle and avoiding splashing you can't prevent air/beer contact. I bottled for 10 years using the exact same procedure that you do. I just accepted that mild oxidation was just something I had to live with. My beer was still OK-->Very Good, although as @Yooper mentioned the flavor was often muted, sometimes stale. But it was never too sweet to drink, even when gravity finished a few points high. So, there has to be something else going on.
I think your only option is to take what you learned and brew it again. And be sure to let us know how it turns out.
 
It would most likely be during bottling. Even if your being gentle and avoiding splashing you can't prevent air/beer contact. I bottled for 10 years using the exact same procedure that you do. I just accepted that mild oxidation was just something I had to live with. My beer was still OK-->Very Good, although as @Yooper mentioned the flavor was often muted, sometimes stale. But it was never too sweet to drink, even when gravity finished a few points high. So, there has to be something else going on.
I think your only option is to take what you learned and brew it again. And be sure to let us know how it turns out.
I will be bottling the next batch tomorrow.......

Todd
 

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