Fastferment and Bottling

[mikezepponi@gmail.com]

I purchased a 7.9 gallon FastFerment Conical fermenter and I'm building out a custom Fermentation/Lagering Chamber. My quandary is whether to build a simple trap door and legs etc. to raise it and set up for bottling directly from the fermenter or whether you would recommend moving the beer to a bottling bucket first. It seems that folding the priming sugar directly into the tank would stir up a lot of Trub clinging to the sides and muck things up, vs the risk of oxidation in a transfer to a bottling bucket--although the latter seems cleaner. I really don't want to add priming to the bottles, and would love to skip the step of moving everything over. Any advise and/or experience with this?

 

[Minbari]

There are upside to both. Racking it off the trub makes adding priming sugar easier, but you risk oxidation.

I always bottled from the fermenter. Added the priming sugar and stirred really slow, then let it sit for 15 minutes mix up. You do get some trub in the bottles. But I think it is easier and you get a better result.

Try both and see what works for you

 

[Herm brews]

I am strictly a bottler, and I strongly advocate for priming the bottles, then filling directly from the fermenter. Fill then cap, one bottle at a time. It is my belief that this is the best method to avoid exposure to air.

 

[mikezepponi@gmail.com]

I am strictly a bottler, and I strongly advocate for priming the bottles, then filling directly from the fermenter. Fill then cap, one bottle at a time. It is my belief that this is the best method to avoid exposure to air.

I have never tried the bottle priming method. I've been told that priming bottles can lead to inconsistency from bottle to bottle, but it clearly works for you--what's your process if I may ask?

 

[Herm brews]

I have never tried the bottle priming method. I've been told that priming bottles can lead to inconsistency from bottle to bottle, but it clearly works for you--what's your process if I may ask?

I just finished bottle priming a batch of cider.
I use the priming calculator on this site to determine how much sugar, honey, syrup, whatever to prime x gallon(s) of liquid to be bottled, at some certain level of carbonation, based on the current temperature of the liquid. That priming media then gets dissolved in some amount of tap water, then brought to a boil. My target is to dose each bottle at some established concentration with ~15mL of priming solution, delivered to each bottle via an oral syringe. So when I bottle my usual 2.5 gallon batch of beer, I fill 24 12-ounce bottles. Therefore, I need ~360mL of boiled priming solution, so I usually start with ~420mL of water to dissolve the weight of priming media determined by the calculator.
After dosing each bottle, I fill directly from my ported, spigoted fermenters with a length of silicon tubing connected to the spigot, and a spring loaded bottling wand on the other end. Fill each sanitized bottle to the point that it just barely overflows, then cap and crimp with my winged capper. I have done this so many times, it is second nature, and quite easy by my standards.

 

[mikezepponi@gmail.com]

I just finished bottle priming a batch of cider.
I use the priming calculator on this site to determine how much sugar, honey, syrup, whatever to prime x gallon(s) of liquid to be bottled, at some certain level of carbonation, based on the current temperature of the liquid. That priming media then gets dissolved in some amount of tap water, then brought to a boil. My target is to dose each bottle at some established concentration with ~15mL of priming solution, delivered to each bottle via an oral syringe. So when I bottle my usual 2.5 gallon batch of beer, I fill 24 12-ounce bottles. Therefore, I need ~360mL of boiled priming solution, so I usually start with ~420mL of water to dissolve the weight of priming media determined by the calculator.
After dosing each bottle, I fill directly from my ported, spigoted fermenters with a length of silicon tubing connected to the spigot, and a spring loaded bottling wand on the other end. Fill each sanitized bottle to the point that it just barely overflows, then cap and crimp with my winged capper. I have done this so many times, it is second nature, and quite easy by my standards.

Great detail, thanks. I have all of those items, I'll give it go, it sure would make things easier.

 

[Craigerrr]

I just finished bottle priming a batch of cider.
I use the priming calculator on this site to determine how much sugar, honey, syrup, whatever to prime x gallon(s) of liquid to be bottled, at some certain level of carbonation, based on the current temperature of the liquid. That priming media then gets dissolved in some amount of tap water, then brought to a boil. My target is to dose each bottle at some established concentration with ~15mL of priming solution, delivered to each bottle via an oral syringe. So when I bottle my usual 2.5 gallon batch of beer, I fill 24 12-ounce bottles. Therefore, I need ~360mL of boiled priming solution, so I usually start with ~420mL of water to dissolve the weight of priming media determined by the calculator.
After dosing each bottle, I fill directly from my ported, spigoted fermenters with a length of silicon tubing connected to the spigot, and a spring loaded bottling wand on the other end. Fill each sanitized bottle to the point that it just barely overflows, then cap and crimp with my winged capper. I have done this so many times, it is second nature, and quite easy by my standards.

Interesting process.
Do you end up with some headspace in the bottle after removing the bottling wand?

 

[Zambi]

I am strictly a bottler, and I strongly advocate for priming the bottles, then filling directly from the fermenter. Fill then cap, one bottle at a time. It is my belief that this is the best method to avoid exposure to air.

I use(d) more or less the same method, except I put sugar per bottle. Not dissolved.
I would do a bottle, then put the cap on loose and tighten caps afterwards.

A good alternative is to find flip top bottles.

As for sugar amount: normal table sugar and a 1/8 measuring teaspoon. 3 level ones for 500 ml.

 

[Daniel Parshley]

I just finished bottle priming a batch of cider.
I use the priming calculator on this site to determine how much sugar, honey, syrup, whatever to prime x gallon(s) of liquid to be bottled, at some certain level of carbonation, based on the current temperature of the liquid. That priming media then gets dissolved in some amount of tap water, then brought to a boil. My target is to dose each bottle at some established concentration with ~15mL of priming solution, delivered to each bottle via an oral syringe. So when I bottle my usual 2.5 gallon batch of beer, I fill 24 12-ounce bottles. Therefore, I need ~360mL of boiled priming solution, so I usually start with ~420mL of water to dissolve the weight of priming media determined by the calculator.
After dosing each bottle, I fill directly from my ported, spigoted fermenters with a length of silicon tubing connected to the spigot, and a spring loaded bottling wand on the other end. Fill each sanitized bottle to the point that it just barely overflows, then cap and crimp with my winged capper. I have done this so many times, it is second nature, and quite easy by my standards.

I have primed bottles and the bucket method. Priming bottles is easier for me. I do get some variability in carbonation time and level, but nothing I can't live with. AVOID this mistake - Add water to sugar for the final volume. I use 5.5 oz dextrose and water until 550 ml and boil. Then use 10 ml per 12 oz and 20 ml for 20 oz bottle. A 60 ml folly flush works well (sterile, cheap for a pack, too) since it fits my tubing, and you get a few bottles done with each fill.

 

[Herm brews]

Interesting process.
Do you end up with some headspace in the bottle after removing the bottling wand?

Yes, consistent every time as seen in these 2 bottles of Amber Ale. Since the wand is spring loaded, it must touch the bottom of the bottle to activate. After StarSan bubbles and beer barely spills from the top, I stop filling, then withdraw the wand. The volume of the wand is what creates the headspace.

 

[BarbarianBrewer]

I tried bottle priming once (with a child's oral syringe) and found it too time-consuming. (My batches are about 70 12oz bottles). So I went back to using the bottling bucket. I figured that even if I bottled from the fermenter, I was only reducing oxygen contact as oxygen is mixed with the beer during bottling. Oxidation is a risk I just accept.

 

[Herm brews]

I have primed bottles and the bucket method. Priming bottles is easier for me. I do get some variability in carbonation time and level, but nothing I can't live with. AVOID this mistake - Add water to sugar for the final volume. I use 5.5 oz dextrose and water until 550 ml and boil. Then use 10 ml per 12 oz and 20 ml for 20 oz bottle. A 60 ml folly flush works well (sterile, cheap for a pack, too) since it fits my tubing, and you get a few bottles done with each fill.

When I first started, I used a bottling bucket. I was never a fan of that process, so I got new ported and spigoted fermenters, and started bottling directly from them using a bottling wand.

I put my little sauce pan on my scale, zero the scale, then measure the prescribed amount of priming media. Then I zero the scale again, and add water to get ~420 mL, then boil, briefly. Usually end up right at 360 mL of solution, +/- a few mL’s. I have found my carbonation levels to be generally consistent. For most of my brews, I target 2.4 volumes CO2.

 

[Herm brews]

I use(d) more or less the same method, except I put sugar per bottle. Not dissolved.
I would do a bottle, then put the cap on loose and tighten caps afterwards.

A good alternative is to find flip top bottles.

As for sugar amount: normal table sugar and a 1/8 measuring teaspoon. 3 level ones for 500 ml.

I use 500 mL (~16 ounces, or a pint) swing tops for cider. My wife and I usually share a bottle, or two. Yesterday’s batch I carbed to 3.0 volumes CO2, looking for a bigger fizz.

 

[Herm brews]

I tried bottle priming once (with a child's oral syringe) and found it too time-consuming. (My batches are about 70 12oz bottles). So I went back to using the bottling bucket. I figured that even if I bottled from the fermenter, I was only reducing oxygen contact as oxygen is mixed with the beer during bottling. Oxidation is a risk I just accept.

I could see 70 bottles being a pain in the ass. That is an advantage of brewing 2.5 gallon batches, there are only 24 bottles to prime, fill and cap.

 

[BarbarianBrewer]

I could see 70 bottles being a pain in the ass. That is an advantage of brewing 2.5 gallon batches, there are only 24 bottles to prime, fill and cap.

One of the things I look forward to in retirement is having time to brew more often which means I can brew smaller batches if I want.

 

[Craigerrr]

Yes, consistent every time as seen in these 2 bottles of Amber Ale. Since the wand is spring loaded, it must touch the bottom of the bottle to activate. After StarSan bubbles and beer barely spills from the top, I stop filling, then withdraw the wand. The volume of the wand is what creates the headspace.
View attachment 27488

I thought so, just wondered about the "Fill each sanitized bottle to the point that it just barely overflows" comment.
I have a stainless spring loaded wand as well, so much better than the plastic pieces ones.

 

[Craigerrr]

I only bottle when I want to age something.
When I do I batch prime, which is super easy as I bottle from a keg with 1-2 lbs of Co2.
I can pour the boiled solution right in the keg before transfer.
I guess I could bottle from the allrounder, but it is quick and easy to transfer to the keg and batch prime.

 

[Minbari]

I thought so, just wondered about the "Fill each sanitized bottle to the point that it just barely overflows" comment.
I have a stainless spring loaded wand as well, so much better than the plastic pieces ones.

I never had a problem with my plastic one. Took the spring out, worked better, but you had to be careful setting it down, lol

 

[Brewer #421388]

You could try both methods (direct bottling vs. transferring to a bottling bucket) with different batches and evaluate the results. This will help you determine which method works best for your setup and brewing preferences.

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