Extract - How much DME during Boil...

Discussion in 'General Brewing Discussions' started by [Steve], Jul 13, 2017.

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How much of your DME do you add during the boil

  1. 100%

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. 75%

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  3. 50%

    1 vote(s)
    25.0%
  4. 25%

    1 vote(s)
    25.0%
  5. 10%

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  6. Other amount

    2 vote(s)
    50.0%
  1. [Steve]

    [Steve] New Member

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    I have a 12 litre Stock Pot and initially thought I would be restricted to around 10 litre batches.

    I then read that you can boil 50% of your final batch size (eg. 8 litres for a total batch size of 16 litres) and then drop that boiled water into your sterilized FV to cool, whillst you boil the other 50% (+ a bit to cover evaporation).

    I'd like to do as big a batch as I can but worry about how much DME i can get away with boiling in a smaller amount of water...

    I've also read that some people don't put all their DME into the boil...

    Wondering how many people do what....

    If I can get away with only boiling 25% of the DME, it means I can do several lots of water and boil everything in the final boil. I'm thinking:

    boil 8 litres, tip into FV to cool
    boil another 8 litres, tip into FV to cool
    Boil another 8 litres as the main boil and add enough DME for 23 litres (Assume will loose around a litre from the 8 in the final boil - am I anywhere close on this estimate?)
    Crash cool the final wort with my immersion chiller, then tip into FV and mix with previously boiled/cooled water...

    Hope to end up with around 23 litres...

    That is another thing I need to be able to estimate fairly accurately, volume loss during boil due to evaporation... any pointers?

    Hope this post makes sense!

    Thanks,

    Steve.
     
  2. Mark D Pirate

    Mark D Pirate Well-Known Member

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    You can do as many boils as needed to reach final batch size .
    DME can be added at 10 mins to go in boil and dilute into FVs
     
  3. [Steve]

    [Steve] New Member

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    Thanks :)

    So are you saying I can add some DME to the water in the FV and then add the rest with 10 mins of boil left?

    Assume then the main aim of the 60 min boil is to allow the wort to absorb the bitterness from the hops...

    Got a mind block now, but during the boil, all that goes into the wort is the DME, the hops (bittering at 0 mins, taste at 40 mins and aroma at 50 mins) and the water that grain is steeped in...

    So it really doesn't matter about boiling the DME for long (or at all?)

    So - my proposal would be:

    - Put 50% of the DME into sterilized FV
    - Boil 8 litres of water and pour this onto the DME (in the FV) - stir well to ensure DME dessolved fully...
    - Boil another 8 litres of water and pour this into the FV too then give another stir...
    - Steep grain for 30 mins @ 70C
    - boil a final 8 litres of water, add the steeped grain liquid & drop in the bittering hops at 0 mins
    - Add hops for taste and aroma after 40 and 50 mins respectively
    - Crash cool the boil with immersion cooler
    - Strain wort into FV and stir well... again...

    - When at 20C-22C, pitch the yeast and put in brew fridge at 19C

    Does that sound about right?

    Thanks,

    Steve.
     
  4. Mark D Pirate

    Mark D Pirate Well-Known Member

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    100 g of dry malt or 120 liquid malt is per litre for hop boil
    If using this calculator for batch click this as a separate addition in fermentable column than hit the late addition checkbox for the rest
     
  5. [Steve]

    [Steve] New Member

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    Thanks again Mark.

    I think I understand. I'll have another look at the calculator and come back if I still have any questions. The 100g DME Per litre is good to know.

    Thanks again.

    Steve.
     
  6. Mark D Pirate

    Mark D Pirate Well-Known Member

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    Without getting overly complicated you'll get better value out of your hops if you boil them at that easy rate than if you throw all the extract in at start .
    There's only so much you can dissolve in water so it comes down to sugars to feed yeast or hoppy goodness per litre
     
  7. chub1

    chub1 Active Member

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    I have added around half spray malt before boil gets underway and then remainder around 10 minutes from end,have also added remaining half direct to FV when topping up .
    When doing extracts i usually do a 45 minute boil but understand that a 30 minute boil would suffice!
     
  8. Trialben

    Trialben Well-Known Member

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    The boil is sterilising wort and for hop bitterness/aroma. If you can get a bigger pot Steve you won't have to muck around with three boil additions but you gotta start somewhere :).
     
  9. J A

    J A Well-Known Member

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    I tend to use LME, especially for late additions because it's just easier to deal with .
    I seldom do anything but all-grain, but here's a typical Late-addition extract recipe that I use. Depending on whether I'm using base malt in the steep grains, I'll do a mini-mash instead of a steep and use a little longer boil. For just Crystal malt in the steep, a boil starting at the first hop addition (15-20 minutes) is all that's necessary.
     
  10. Mark D Pirate

    Mark D Pirate Well-Known Member

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    Steve , noticed your timing is the wrong way around .
    Generally hop additions are listed as time until flameout so a hour long bittering charge is listed as @60
    Aroma as @10 ect .

    You can do a single 10 litre boil and get a full 23 litre batch
    Add 1 kg DME as water is heating and ensure you stir it in well so it doesn't clump and burn onto base of pot
    Add hops as needed for recipe , place pot in laundry tub with ice or cold water to chill it .
    A few litres of fresh boiled water from kettle will dissolve any extra malt extract ( liquid malt is already sterile ) in FV
    Add strained chilled hop boil to fermentor and top up to 23 litres with chilled water and pitch once temp is correct
     
  11. [Steve]

    [Steve] New Member

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    Thanks for the replies folks. Plenty to think about there!
     

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