C02.uptake

Discussion in 'General Brewing Discussions' started by Trialben, Feb 24, 2017.

  1. Trialben

    Trialben Well-Known Member

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    Gday all i came across a little brewing conundrum one that i new about but foolishly had to find out for my self this week.
    Ive been pouring beers from my current keg of pilsner with some deflated results lately NO Bubbles. Not none completely but hardly any. So i upped my psi pressure from 10psi to 12 hoping that would pump in some more carbonation Nope this arvo she was pretty few and far between. Whats my dilemma well i checked the kegerator and it was reading 5-6 Celsius so the co2 wasn't being absorbed into the beer solution. Ive turned down the fridge to 3C and yep my bubbles are back yippee so my lesson learned may also be yours even if you bottle by chilling it will give you better carbonation for longer cheers and brew on!
     
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  2. J A

    J A Well-Known Member

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  3. Trialben

    Trialben Well-Known Member

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    Yea cheers well I turned the temp down and within 3 hours the bubbles were jumping outta me glass.
    The kegs were carbonated we've had some stinking hot weather for weeks now so I think I upped the fridge temp so it wasn't cycling so much so the co2 left the solution.
     
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  4. J A

    J A Well-Known Member

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    just remember...temp up, pressure up to hold the same volumes
     
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  5. Head First

    Head First Well-Known Member

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  6. jmcnamara

    jmcnamara Well-Known Member

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    I've seen that calculator before. Does FG really have an effect?

    Looks like I still have to play around with the hose for my picnic tap
     
  7. Head First

    Head First Well-Known Member

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    I don't think it affects it very much. With the way i'm set up its .3ft difference in length with a 1.030 compared to a 1.001. I only have 2 pressure banks with 3 on 1 regulator and 5 on the other so don't pay a lot of attention to diff FG's in my keezer. But if say there is a Big stout tapped next to a lager I do notice a difference in the pour. I'm not picky enough to buy more regulators and I don't mind a big head on a stout. I just got tired of getting that half a glass of foam that first pour.
    Before using this calculator I just changed pressure to the correct pour. With the longer lines it calls for with my system I can carb to correct volumes. I use 10#s at 36 degrees F and that gives me 2.5 vol's which is high for a stout but still pours ok, but good for most beers. With the second bank I usually force carb at 30#s for a couple of days then when all beer is carbed I sometimes switch around so bigger beers are set at lower volumes.
     
  8. Trialben

    Trialben Well-Known Member

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    So I have 4.5 meters of 6mm diameter hoses on my 3 taps so equilibrium should be good that's 13 feet ish but that's a head issue with smaller hole length depending on tap pressure? Na mines a co2 absorption issue which I think I've nailed through dropping the temperature cheers ;). I usually have my gauge set at 10 psi but I've upped it to 12psi now and dropped kegerator down to 3c sorry not sure Fahrenheit :rolleyes:. I've learnt if you've got some problems with foaming to purge keg set regulator pressure lower then pour again.

    Another thing I think with 13-14 foot of line half my beer is sitting in the line that I pour? I always find after a few brews she always pours better and beer is crystal clear that beer sitting in the line can be a bit stale what do youse think?
     
  9. Head First

    Head First Well-Known Member

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    You could reduce your line diameter to reduce your length for the resistance needed. I use 3/16ths in. which is in between 4-5mm with about 9.5 ft of hose and 10-12 psi depending what is on tap at 36°F(2.2°C).
     
  10. J A

    J A Well-Known Member

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    I looked at all those calculators when I was setting up my 2-banger dorm fridge. I just couldn't see buying 9 feet of line for each tap and cutting off a foot at a time until they were just right. I just bought 10 feet of beer line, cut it half, hooked it up and adjusted serving pressure accordingly. Haven't really had a bad pour yet once a keg settles in.
     
  11. Head First

    Head First Well-Known Member

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    That works lust fine to pour but you are not getting the correct volume of co2 in your beer by just turning down the regulator. That is what I did before. But now since I have proper volumes of co2, pressure vs temp, the head holds better and the beer stays carbonated in the glass longer.
     
  12. jeffpn

    jeffpn Well-Known Member

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    I also chose short lines as my priority. I use the 3/16" ID hose, 4' per tap. Absorbed CO2 is also affected by beer temperature. I keep my keezer at about 35°. I'm happy with the carbonation. The head disappears fairly quickly, but I'm ok with that.
     
  13. Ozarks Mountain Brew

    Staff Member

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    the issue with the first pour is cold to worm from a large mass of cold to a warmer faucet, once the faucet cools down the foam goes away
     
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  14. Trialben

    Trialben Well-Known Member

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    Same as pouring cold beer in a warm glass foams up heaps.
     
  15. Mase

    Mase Well-Known Member

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    The disclaimer on the bottom of the chart states: "* This chart is use in forced carbonating draft beer...". I am hoping the term "Forced carbonation" is used interchangeably. Whenever I see "forced carbonation" i picture some dude rolling his just-filled keg back and forth to "force" carbonate the beer. I used the exact same chart to determine my pressurization level to carbonate my beer style to the style i have in the keg and use the "set it and forget it" method. o_O
     
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