No Chill Brewing

Sunfire96 said:
I've definitely heard the argument that it causes better clarity due to the cold break, but I've never heard anything about cold break affecting flavor
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No me either.
Either way whatever gets you across the line.

As long as your brewing good beer that's what counts.
 
"My 1st No Chill Brew". After the overnight in the BK, temp was above 150F so little worry on bugs in the Kettle/Fermenter. Next time I'll use Ben's foil idea.
The problem I had has nothing to do with No Chill. I had moved the Wort from the Kettle to the Fermenter & added the Yeast, Wyeast 3711 French Saison. 48 hours later still no action. Waited another 12 hours & still no Fermentation happening. Conditioning Chamber was at 66 & 68 F, OG was 1.061. With frustration rising I visited LHBS for advice. Obviously, repitch the Yeast. I decided not to use the 3711 again but no other Saison Yeast from Wyeast or any of the 4 other suppliers were available so I switched to Wyeast 3725 Farmhouse.
Pitched when I got back home. 6 hrs later Krusen formed & Tilt showed SG is 1.055.
No explanation for the Yeast inactivity but it's Rollin' now.
Thanks for the input, comments & support for new ideas.
 
Alright, so you guys are making me work today hahahahaha

Basically, the better proteins you have the better the hop oils can bind to them. So yes, chilling quickly would add a benefit.

Secondly, yes, not EVERY brewery uses glycol, but the risk involved with not instantly chilling your wort is too high commercially, so that is what most breweries will use. I know a brewery that uses a plate style chiller system, but the plate is so large that it's just as good as glycol. Also, technically, breweries in Australia are supposed to register their water consumption (everyone lies) but still, yet another reason anything but glycol becomes an issue. Our system did use water for some of the chilling, but majority was glycol.

All this being said, homebrewing is about using what works for you and what you can use for your system/process. So if no chill is what you prefer, or what you can do for your system, it'll work. But like brewing salts (which only a minority of brewers use) it does add to a better overall product. The difference isn't huge, but in my opinion it definitely makes a difference. Think A to A+.

I know you all make great beer! :)
 
P.S.- To make sure I got this right, I called a guy who helped found Young Henrys (All Aussies should know them) and he indeed confirmed what my old corporate consultant stated. Bigger chains, means more drop out, which means overall better tasting beer. It also does allow hop oils to have a greater binding rate, meaning more hop utilisation.

However, Fresh Wort Kits are essentially a long term no chill technique and are great tasting beers!
 
Dirty Dingo Brewing CO. said:
P.S.- To make sure I got this right, I called a guy who helped found Young Henrys (All Aussies should know them) and he indeed confirmed what my old corporate consultant stated. Bigger chains, means more drop out, which means overall better tasting beer. It also does allow hop oils to have a greater binding rate, meaning more hop utilisation.

However, Fresh Wort Kits are essentially a long term no chill technique and are great tasting beers!
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Interesting. So no references besides an Aussie I've never heard of? :D any papers or articles to back up the claim of better tasting beer? I'm just trying to learn as much as possible
 
There really isn't a study specifically on that. But you can look up studies on how hop oils bind to back it up
 
Dirty Dingo Brewing CO. said:
P.S.- To make sure I got this right, I called a guy who helped found Young Henrys (All Aussies should know them) and he indeed confirmed what my old corporate consultant stated. Bigger chains, means more drop out, which means overall better tasting beer. It also does allow hop oils to have a greater binding rate, meaning more hop utilisation.

However, Fresh Wort Kits are essentially a long term no chill technique and are great tasting beers!
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Man I get great protine coagulation in the No Chill wort.
You can rack crystal clear wort over into the fermenter next if you wish.
I'm sure you've seen this yourself when NO Chilling.

So as far as COLD break material comming out the wort and forming better protine stings or whatever i think the difference is negligible just my 2c.

Weather the chilling happens rapidly or overnight I don't notice much of a difference if anything better settling in the overnight chill.

Anyhow a little bit if this break material and trub isn't bad for your beer anyhow.
Unless you've found the oposite Dingo?

Love the discussion
And yup were all striving for the best beer with the least amount of effort no chilling has been working with my busy schedule of having a 2 year old champing at my heals:p

Man doe in last brew day she just had to mix the grains for me with the spoon gunna have to make a little brew stand for her I think lol!
 
Yeah, I know you can have crystal clear wort, because like I said, Fresh Wort Kits are No Chill beers and they're crystal clear

The thing is how quickly you can get proteins to bond and drop out. The faster you do this, the quicker and longer the bonds can become. The longer those bonds, the more surface area the hop oil has to attach. It isn't just about dropping to the bottom and becoming trub.

Once again, this is only a marginal improvement, like probably less than 5%. But when you're talking large scale, every 1% difference matters
 
Thanks all for the no chill information and discussion. Like @Trialben, I am always looking to cut the brewday time down and still make good beer. Can my beer be any better, probably but for now getting it done AFAP is the methods I use.
 
I've done no chill for a long time. I think concern for infection or it doing something to make your beer taste bad are similar to the old time myths of squeezing the bag gives you tannins. There are so many old myths that I always experiment and try things out when every someone tells me I Shouldn't do it certain way when it comes to home brewing. I actually still see people pushing bad info in forums all the time. If you wrap the kettle lid with plastic wrap while it's still hot it kind of shrink wraps it and seals it really well. I've never had a bad beer doing this and never had an infection. Of course you have to keep it closed no peaking and sanitize everything. If you are smart about it there is really no issue. I wouldn't push it longer than overnight though. I did 2 days once and it was fine but I have research that Botulism can form after 3 days.....not sure if it's true but also not worth it to take the risk.
 
How did the Brewers, Brewster and Ale Wives of old cool things down before immersion chillers and ice baths were used to cool things down? I know that brewing was not done in summer too much because of the temperatures given geography.
 
Ward Chillington said:
How did the Brewers, Brewster and Ale Wives of old cool things down before immersion chillers and ice baths were used to cool things down? I know that brewing was not done in summer too much because of the temperatures given geography.
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They let it sit out in the open. Maybe, maybe a cloth covering to keep out the flies.
 
Over The Cliff Brewing said:
This was a good read. I brew mostly hazy beers anyway. I don't lose any sleep if my lager or pale ale is not crystal clear. I think the no chill will still work for me.
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Mate I brew plenty of lager and mine get crystal clear.
Here's a pilsner I brewed a couple months back for explanation NO CHilled .:)
20220430_190741.jpg
 
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