I tend to build my own reipes using the recipe function here. Often they are based on other recipes but modified to suit my ingredients and taste. That said, I have found the recipe builder to be pretty accurate at determining pre-boil gravity, O.G. and ABV with the provision that you "tweak"...

I posted about it on the "Equipment Questions" topic - but it looks to me like Blichmann have sold their home brewing business to MoreBeer and they will continue the engineering and manufacturing for the commercial brewing side of things.

It looks like a controlling interest in Blichmann Engineering and Anvil has been purchased by MoreFlavor Inc., the parent company of More Beer and sales of all the equipment and parts will be handled by More Beer. You can read more on the Blichmann site: HERE

Yep - I agree! If you can find a "reasonably" local store, ask if they can get a bulk sack for you. I make a 2hr drive each way to get mine - still cheaper than shipping! Be aware that many of the "free shipping" places exclude the bulk sacks!

I brew similar beers to you - mostly British style pale ales, milds reds and porters. The only grain I buy in bulk is Breiss Pale Ale Malt, but I typically stock several crystal malts (40, 60, 80), a chocolate malt, black malt, roasted barley and a red malt. For milds I use Ashburne Mild malt...

Your wort should be at a "rolling" boil, that is it should be actively moving. I also have an all-in-one system and get a similar boil-off rate with water or wort (the temps are essentially the same). Things that can affect boil-off rate are humidity and altitude (or barometric pressure)...

I have the Anvil Foundry 10.5 and LOVE it! However, I suspect the other options you mention work just as well - the only recommendation I would make is to go for the 220v versions (the Anvil is both 110 and 220) as it makes a HUGE difference when heating the strike water or bringing the wort to...

Maybe a dumb question, and I have never measured the Ph of my brewing water, but if you always use the same water source, how much does the Ph vary and how rapidly does it change?

True - and it causes some odd issues. Places selling pot can only accept cash - because using credit/charge cards means it goes through a bank - and banks are federally regulated and can't accept transactions that are not federally allowed! Where I live it causes charter boat captains trouble...

But... home brewing was illegal until 1978 when President Jimmy Carter signed H.R. 1337, an act authorizing the home production of beer and wine without federal taxation. Coincidentally, also the year I arrived in the USA!

I agree, but if you carb at 20PSI you still have to bleed it down to serving pressure - or you are initially dispensing the beer at 20PSI!

I did go for a Milwaukee MA871 digital refractometer and am VERY pleased with it! Very simple to use and seems to give believable readings. I tried it against my optical one and it gives more repeatable results, haven't tried it against a floater! I tend to believe that if the readings are...

What others have said - but I also find that after I force carb at higher pressure, I have to bleed the pressure off to serving level or you get foamy beer for a LONG time. Unfortunately Boyles Law (P1V1 = P2V2) cannot be violated! :oops:

I use a hop spider during the boil - and like others, I can't say if affects clarity. The biggest change I saw was using a Whirfloc tablet 5 minutes before flame-out! That along with an active fermentation in an undisturbed environment for at least two weeks seem to give me very clear results...

I'm not quite as productive as some of you - but here is my output: Best Bitter - 4 Cherry Porter - 1 Red Ale - 2 Mild Ale - 2 Brown Ale - 1 For a grand total of 10 sessions making 50 gallons of beer!