GREEN COLOURED MASH?!

[Ron Reyes (Papa Piggy)]

Greenish mash? Just doing a blond ale basically 50/50 2 row/pils malt. And after conversion it’s kinda green. I’ve never had a green mash. There are no hops yet. What do you think?

 

[weldedsord]

maybe just the pic but I made a pilsner that colored during the mash and to be honest it doesn't look green but grainy witch is the Pilsen malt all that really is to finish ferment and tell us how it turned out

 

[Ron Reyes (Papa Piggy)]

maybe just the pic but I made a pilsner that colored during the mash and to be honest it doesn't look green but grainy witch is the Pilsen malt all that really is to finish ferment and tell us how it turned out

Thanks. I’m thinking you are right. It’s just the first time I’ve seen this. The hot break at boil wa moss green. But it tastes fine. I’m following through.

 

[weldedsord]

cool tell us how it turns out

 

[GFHomebrew]

Thanks. I’m thinking you are right. It’s just the first time I’ve seen this. The hot break at boil wa moss green. But it tastes fine. I’m following through.

What the! Green hot break no FWHops added? Boil that sucker good I say bit late for ST Patrick's brews!

 

[Nosybear]

Looks pretty normal.

 

[Ron Reyes (Papa Piggy)]

What the! Green hot break no FWHops added? Boil that sucker good I say bit late for ST Patrick's brews!

ive brewed with Pilsner malt before and never seen this. So yeah I boiled it for 90 mins. After cooling the color subsided. I never skim my hot brake foam but this time i did and it was like cleaning an aquarium. there is one thing i suspect MAY have attributed to it... but im not too convinced. It was a brand new kettle. I cleaned that sucker with hot TSP, rinsed a few times, then I passivated it with Bartenders Friend for 10 mins, wiped and rinsed. then rinsed again several hours later when it was brew time. Im pretty anal about cleaning but could this be a factor?

 

[Ron Reyes (Papa Piggy)]

Looks pretty normal.

Im looking again at that picture and i gotta say that it does it no justice. The hot brake foam was like cleaning out an old aquarium.

 

[HighVoltageMan!]

Do you have any copper in your system? If you use Brewtan B, it can cause a green tint if used with copper in the brewing system. Brewtan B is chelation agent and will bond with any free copper, not sure why it turns a little green. I have seen that, and it did not seem to effect the beer at all.

I have since replaced all the copper on my brew system with stainless.

 

[J A]

New kettle should probably have been passivated better. Oxidation of alloys in the stainless probably left a residue at a molecular level. Copper is sometimes used in the production of stainless steel and there aren't many elements that produce a green color. Since it's unlikely that there any lead content it's probably safe.

 

[Craigerrr]

It's not easy being Green

 

[Ron Reyes (Papa Piggy)]

Do you have any copper in your system? If you use Brewtan B, it can cause a green tint if used with copper in the brewing system. Brewtan B is chelation agent and will bond with any free copper, not sure why it turns a little green. I have seen that, and it did not seem to effect the beer at all.

I have since replaced all the copper on my brew system with stainless.

No copper at all. This batch was biab in a SS kettle and Plastic spoons.

 

[Hogarthe]

Maybe some leaf material got in with the grain somehow? But I'm leaning toward thinking it was the bartendersfriend. I've never used that and I would have thought rinsing it twice should have removed it, but maybe some stayed.

 

[Nosybear]

I went back up and looked again: My bet would be you have some hop debris - naturally green - in there. And it's not enough to worry about. Barkeeper's Friend is not the issue - I use it after about every brew and it's white! But I don't see any color in that sample to worry about. About as gently as I can put it: I think you're looking for a solution to a problem you don't have.

 

[J A]

Yeah...Barkeeper's Friend is just oxalic acid powder. Residue is white and there's not much that it can react with. It's not really strong enough for passivation. Filling with 1oz to 1 gallon Star San is recommended. Anything less than that is just cleaning the surface but not likely doing much at a molecular level. Boiling PBW or letting it sit hot for at least 20 minutes will do a better job of removing residue than TSP.
If you've use those malts before, the first boil in your new kettle is the only real variable.