First Recipe - Dry Hopped IPA

JakeRabbit

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I'm still a novice brewer. This is my first time trying to create my own recipe. I based it off of my first brew which was the northern brewer chinook ipa that turned out really great. Trying to change it up a little bit to get a higher ABV and change the hop characters. Let me know what you think or what I could/should do differently

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/embed/771163
 
I personally would increase the IBUs to 60 or so and increase the dry hop amount considerably. Also you may want to sub in about 5% plain old table sugar to increase the fermentability of the extract based beer.
 
I personally would increase the IBUs to 60 or so and increase the dry hop amount considerably. Also you may want to sub in about 5% plain old table sugar to increase the fermentability of the extract based beer.

I added an extra half ounce for 60 minutes brought the IBU to 50 which I think would be plenty for my taste. I also doubled the dry hop simcoe to 2oz instead of 1.

About the table sugar, add an additional 5% so about half a pound of table sugar?
 
I added an extra half ounce for 60 minutes brought the IBU to 50 which I think would be plenty for my taste. I also doubled the dry hop simcoe to 2oz instead of 1.

About the table sugar, add an additional 5% so about half a pound of table sugar?

I would replace 1/2 lb of LME with sugar.

You can also wait for others advice. This is just what used to work for me in the past when brewing with extract.

It took me way too long to realize I wasn't using enough hops for hoppy styles.
 
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I would replace 1/2 lb of LME with sugar.

You can also wait for others advice. This is just what used to work for me in the past when brewing with extract.

It took me way too long to realize I wasn't using enough hops for hoppy styles.

Okay thanks for your input
 
No reason to add sugar to an IPA. C120 is very dark. It won't just give color but will contribute to the flavor in a potentially negative way. C40 is best or maybe C60. You may find that you want more hops in the next batch but this seems like a good place to start.
 
No reason to add sugar to an IPA. C120 is very dark. It won't just give color but will contribute to the flavor in a potentially negative way. C40 is best or maybe C60. You may find that you want more hops in the next batch but this seems like a good place to start.

Interesting. I have always read about subbing in sugar for LME which isn't as fermentable as all-grain. Worked great from me. I suppose I like IPAs to be reasonably dry. Different strokes for different folks.

If it was an all grain IPA, I would avoid sugar as well...
 
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I suppose that if one had experienced trouble with attenuation with extracts, sugar could be added to dry it out a little. Lighter extracts tend to better in terms of fermenting out. I don't think it'd be an automatic go-to.
 
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I agree with the sugar - I often get thick bodied beers from extract. Subbing 5% sugar will cut that somewhat.
 
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^^^Fair enough...I don't do enough with extracts any more to have a strong opinion either way. :)
 
I've updated it based on your
I agree with the sugar - I often get thick bodied beers from extract. Subbing 5% sugar will cut that somewhat.

I did notice that it was a pretty thick beer. It wasn’t to the point that it had an unpleasant body but I was looking to lighten that up a bit. Thanks for the tip!
 
Any preferences in your IPAs? Thinking more about preferences around sweeter or drier, bitterness, flavour, aroma, clarity/haze. Those sort of things.

You could try something different with the hop schedule. I'd increase that first one to get base IBUs up. I'd probably drop the 10 minute and put most of into the first one and maybe some into the 30 minute.

If you like the more flavour/aroma driven IPAs you could change your one minute to a hop stand. For that you just turn off the flames, drop in the hops, put on the lid and come back in 20 - 30 minutes to do your chilling. If you do you just change the hop type to whirlpool instead of boil and put in how long you'll wait. It's also a bit more relaxing as you can take your time getting ready for the chilling and adding to the fermenter.

For your yeast you can get away with the one packet, but two will make things a bit smoother.

Your boil size is too low, though it won't matter if you're just following the process from your last brew. But if you look at any of the water requirements tools on the recipe or brew day feature that will be the reason it's gone a little insane.
 
Funny I'd add wheat to this beer to give it a thicker mouthfeel and better head retention so glad I didn't add any malt to this beer earlier but I don't brew extract no more so could be different.. for my hoppy beer schedule I do FWH for bittering then a 20min then 30minutr whirlpool (what Mark said above) then dry hop as krausen has dropped day 3-5 ish and have been doing a second cold keg hopped addition that I've found brings the aroma up a bit I recon. Good luck
 
Funny I'd add wheat to this beer to give it a thicker mouthfeel and better head retention so glad I didn't add any malt to this beer earlier but I don't brew extract no more so could be different.. for my hoppy beer schedule I do FWH for bittering then a 20min then 30minutr whirlpool (what Mark said above) then dry hop as krausen has dropped day 3-5 ish and have been doing a second cold keg hopped addition that I've found brings the aroma up a bit I recon. Good luck

I accidentally ordered an extract kit for a brown ale recently instead of the All Grain version, and I’m half afraid to make it as im so used to All Grain, that I’m not sure I’m ready to step up to extract yet.
 

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