Large mouth - closed transfer - newbie

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New member - first post so please let me know if I'm screwing up.
I use a 7.5gal glass, large mouth carboy for fermentation and want to figure out how to do a completely closed transfer into a ball lock 5gal keg. I'm relatively new to HB so if new/different equipment is the best way to go (especially for the long haul) pleased don't hesitate with your suggestions. Links would be awesome. I currently have gotten most of my equipment form The Beverage Factory.
Thanks for any help/suggestions.
Cheers
 
If I understand your equipment profile correctly, what you want to do is not possible. It's also not particularly necessary to do a completely closed transfer.If you have carbon dioxide available to you flush the receiving vessel with it and then transfer. That's how I do it, and I have no oxidation problems.
 
If I understand your equipment profile correctly, what you want to do is not possible. It's also not particularly necessary to do a completely closed transfer.If you have carbon dioxide available to you flush the receiving vessel with it and then transfer. That's how I do it, and I have no oxidation problems.
I apologize for the "Brewing-for-Dummies" question but if I flush the keg with CO2 and then open it to fill it what does flushing do?
 
I apologize for the "Brewing-for-Dummies" question but if I flush the keg with CO2 and then open it to fill it what does flushing do?
CO2 is heavier than air. As long as you don't shake it vigorously or turn it over enough gas will stay in to prevent oxidation.
 
CO2 is heavier than air. As long as you don't shake it vigorously or turn it over enough gas will stay in to prevent oxidation.
Thank you very much. That answers more than one question. Question, if I fill the keg with co2 don't I hace to pull the release before opening it? If I do this does the keg still have enough co2 so that if the line goes to the very bottom, am I covered? I have only done 1 keg and I have forced carbonated it (turned out great) by putting the co2at @ 40psi thru the outlet. Suggestions?
 
I'd be curious to know if a fermonster lid would fit.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptrfermonsterecon.htm
I'm sure you could purchase another lid though and fabricate your own easy enough.
You certainly can purge your keg with o2 and run your beer in as always. I just sanitize with starsan and fill, pushing the starsan foam up and out as I fill. Fit the lid and purge several times and start chilling.
 
Thank you very much. That answers more than one question. Question, if I fill the keg with co2 don't I hace to pull the release before opening it? If I do this does the keg still have enough co2 so that if the line goes to the very bottom, am I covered? I have only done 1 keg and I have forced carbonated it (turned out great) by putting the co2at @ 40psi thru the outlet. Suggestions?
Beyond m, I don't keg.
 
I do closed transfers with my regular narrow neck fermenter, but I don't see how I can do it with my KEGCO fermenter. I have a NEIPA in my KEGCO fermenter now, which is almost ready to transfer. I will just be transferring to the keg with an auto siphon. I will just manually fill the keg with CO2 before transfer, as mentioned it is heavier than air so it will stay at the bottom of the keg and stay on top of the beer as the keg fills. I will probably get a couple more narrow neck carboys and ditch the KEGCO unit for this reason. I have also found the lid to be a b*tch to open when it is time to dry hop, that damn sugary wort is like glue!
 
Question, if I fill the keg with co2 don't I hace to pull the release before opening it? If I do this does the keg still have enough co2 so that if the line goes to the very bottom, am I covered? I have only done 1 keg and I have forced carbonated it (turned out great) by putting the co2at @ 40psi thru the outlet. Suggestions?
Yes...you won't be able to force the lid if there's more than a tiny amount of pressure. It's not a perfect system, but many a keg has been filled with the pressure, purge, siphon method. Oxygen exposure is kept to an absolute minimum and it works very well.
The force carbing that you describe works just fine. Be careful of over-carbing. If you've cold crashed beforehand you can get a lot of CO2 in suspension by rocking at 40 PSI. If you just pressure it to 40 through the out side, rock it a time or two a few seconds and let it equalize then let it sit overnight, it's pretty much good to go. If the beer is room, you can push the gas for longer or hit it again after the keg is chilled and it'll be pretty close - might take a day or two of topping up to get to good carb level.
 
Something like this i'd image, the challenge is finding a lid with room for two bungs and keeping the pressure low and using gravity -

Or you could get one of the solid lids and use a step drill to create two holes the right size for the bungs you'd use.
 
I don't personally make any special effort to avoid oxygen when transferring and haven't had any problems. I just purge the keg once it's full of the head space and go from there.
 
Something like this i'd image, the challenge is finding a lid with room for two bungs and keeping the pressure low and using gravity -

Or you could get one of the solid lids and use a step drill to create two holes the right size for the bungs you'd use.
That is EXACTLY the cap I'm looking for. I tried to find 3683 Brewing (poster of vid) with no luck. If any ony knows where to find this lid it would be awesome. If not I'm headed for the drill!!
Thanks for the lead.
 

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