Dank Star II

holstershine

New Member
Trial Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2017
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Trying to recreate a beer from a local brewery only knowing the types of hops used and the ABV.

HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: Dank Star II

Brew Method: Extract
Style Name: American Pale Ale
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 3 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.106
Efficiency: 35% (steeping grains only)


STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.058
Final Gravity: 1.016
ABV (standard): 5.55%
IBU (tinseth): 82.84
SRM (morey): 5.84

FERMENTABLES:
7.5 lb - Liquid Malt Extract - Light (63.3%)

STEEPING GRAINS:
4 lb - American - Pale 2-Row (33.8%)
0.25 lb - Flaked Oats (2.1%)
0.1 lb - Canadian - Honey Malt (0.8%)

HOPS:
0.25 oz - Columbus, Type: Pellet, AA: 15, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 7.82
0.25 oz - Nelson Sauvin, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.5, Use: Boil for 40 min, IBU: 5.72
0.25 oz - Columbus, Type: Pellet, AA: 15, Use: Boil for 20 min, IBU: 4.74
0.25 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.5, Use: Boil for 5 min, IBU: 1.3
0.5 oz - Columbus, Type: Pellet, AA: 15, Use: Boil for 0 min
0.75 oz - Nelson Sauvin, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.5, Use: Whirlpool for 0 min at 160 °F, IBU: 12.77
0.75 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.5, Use: Whirlpool for 0 min at 160 °F, IBU: 12.77
1 oz - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.7, Use: Whirlpool for 0 min at 160 °F, IBU: 17.3
1 oz - Columbus, Type: Pellet, AA: 15, Use: Whirlpool for 0 min at 160 °F, IBU: 20.43

YEAST:
Wyeast - London Ale III 1318
Starter: No
Form: Liquid
Attenuation (avg): 73%
Flocculation: High
Optimum Temp: 64 - 74 F
Fermentation Temp: 70 F
Pitch Rate: 0.35 (M cells / ml / deg P)


Generated by Brewer's Friend - https://www.brewersfriend.com/
Date: 2017-06-12 20:33 UTC
Recipe Last Updated: 2017-06-12 20:32 UTC
 
Is it supposed to be a NEIPA kind of beer? If so, the oats and Honey malt will not be noticeable. If you want haze, then you need more flaked oats and white (pale) wheat malt ( flaked wheat works as well ). Like 10% each.

If it's not a NEIPA, then the recipe looks good, but the honey and oats will not add anything to the recipe in those qty.
 
That's a lot of base malt for a steep !
Daresay you can reduce amount of liquid malt and check the late addition checkbox to change boil gravity which will drastically effect your IBUs .
In reality its a partial mash brew not an extract brew
 
Is it supposed to be a NEIPA kind of beer? If so, the oats and Honey malt will not be noticeable. If you want haze, then you need more flaked oats and white (pale) wheat malt ( flaked wheat works as well ). Like 10% each.

If it's not a NEIPA, then the recipe looks good, but the honey and oats will not add anything to the recipe in those qty.

Not an NEIPA. You think I just drop the honey and oats all together and compensate with extract to get back to my desired ABV of about 5.5? Maybe I'll try it both ways just to see.
 
That's a lot of base malt for a steep !
Daresay you can reduce amount of liquid malt and check the late addition checkbox to change boil gravity which will drastically effect your IBUs .
In reality its a partial mash brew not an extract brew

Yeah maybe, I just did a trial run with only 3 lbs of base malt. I ran that recipe through the calculator AFTER I brewed (rookie mistake) and realized the ABV was lower than I wanted. That brew is currently fermenting so I don't have results yet.
 
Too late for this brew then but be aware that the gravity of the boil effects how effective your hops are .

Ideally boil gravity of about 1.040 gets most efficient use of hops so with extract you can just add it with 10 mins left in the boil and check the " late addition " box in the recipe calculator

Common practice is to target 25-35% of total IBUs with early additions and rest late but you've still made wort that yeast will turn into beer so not end of the world

Let us know how it turns out
 
So the beer tastes decent! If I had to compare to a mainstream beer I'd say it's similar to Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. The color is much darker than I expected. It is unfortunately not very close to what I was trying to brew. The beer that I am trying clone is only made once in a while and by chance they brewed a small batch again a few weeks ago. It's a pale ale but there is some haze, kind of like a NEIPA. So maybe I'll try some different malts. Also, I didn't get the dank smell and flavor I was going for either. I honestly thought the beer would turn out more hop forward than it did.
 
My tip don't use any extract in it use maybe a Pilsner base if last one was too dark and include some dry hop additions at end of primary fermentation before yeast have finished day 3-4 :).
 
My tip don't use any extract in it use maybe a Pilsner base if last one was too dark and include some dry hop additions at end of primary fermentation before yeast have finished day 3-4 :).

No extract? Do you mean go all grain?
 
No extract? Do you mean go all grain?
Yeah i thought you used LME in it. My theory is the dehydration of the malt into the solid may darken it... just my thoughts btw.

You can boil for less. Reduce oxygen impact on wort to reduce it darkening from oxygen contact.

But changing your base malt may help reduce lovibond.
 
Yeah i thought you used LME in it. My theory is the dehydration of the malt into the solid may darken it... just my thoughts btw.

You can boil for less. Reduce oxygen impact on wort to reduce it darkening from oxygen contact.

But changing your base malt may help reduce lovibond.
DME doesn't change color in storage - the color change in LME is brought about by Maillard reactions that require sugar, water, amino acids, a slightly acidic environment and time. The initial process of making LME darkens it over a straight wort and it darkens further in storage. Oxygen contact doesn't really darken the wort - it's insoluble in water above 180 degrees. But if you want to make a very pale beer with extract, use DME. I've done Helles with DME that's as light as all-grain. You won't get an extremely pale ale with LME but to lighten your beers, use the freshest LME you can find and use a very short boil, all you really need to do is isomerize hops and sterilize. Another option is split the additions of syrup. Put some in early to help with the hops and steeping, then add the rest at 10 minutes to go. Good luck!
 

Back
Top