My FG...

MiketheB

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Hi, Home Brewers! I can't seem to get my FG where it's supposed to be. I've tried just about everything. Can any of you give me some suggestions. This is killing me! MWB
 
It always comes in at 1035 or so... GO Boilers!
Is your OG correct before you put it in the fermenter?

I assume healthy yeast?

What temp are you mashing at?
 
It always comes in at 1035 or so... GO Boilers!
@Josh Hughes nailed it; we need more details and information. Don't be afraid to share :)

what equipment are you using?
what's your process?
water source? do you use store bought, reverse osmosis are you adding chemicals / balancing it out? High chlorine/chloramine "city" water will inhibit fermentation.
how's your pH ?
what is your cleaning and sanitizing regimen?

Wait? Where's @Donoroto? He's always beating me to the punch...
 
Zero chance of getting any useful input without any actual information to go on. :)
 
1.035 final? What's it start at?
 
This guy only posts once every few years. He's seen the first half dozen comments and not responded yet.

Good luck to you buddy. Hope you got some good ideas above of what you need to look into.
 
How do you measure?
 
If you are referring to Purdue, they have a big game Saturday!
 
Is your OG correct before you put it in the fermenter?

I assume healthy yeast?

What temp are you mashing at?
I'm at around 1065-1070 b4 fermenter. Healthy yeast. I'm mashing at 165-180. I am RAW boil not above 185degrees.
 
I'm at around 1065-1070 b4 fermenter. Healthy yeast. I'm mashing at 165-180. I am RAW boil not above 185degrees.
raw boil??? Why not atleast hit boil?

what yeast?

Post recipe?

1.070 is 17.06p that is a big beer. you should be over pitching your yeast by a fair amount. you will also need nutrients and O2 if possible. if you are not over pitching and dont have added nutrient you will have very very stressed out yeast at 17p.

dry yeast doesnt need a starter.

how are you taking your grav? you need a hydrometer. a refract will not read accurately with alcohol.
 
My H20 is home water. I measure w/ a refractometer.
refract doesnt work with alcohol. need to get a hydrometer. preferrably a single scale. those multi scale ones are kind of shit. you also need to be sure that your samples are the correct temperature unless your hydrometer is temp calibrated.

these are the ones that i use...i am not a homebrewer though so take that with a grain of salt.
https://www.amazon.com/SafetyBlue-T...57383&sprefix=plato+hydrometer,aps,174&sr=8-3
 
raw boil??? Why not atleast hit boil?

what yeast?

Post recipe?

1.070 is 17.06p that is a big beer. you should be over pitching your yeast by a fair amount. you will also need nutrients and O2 if possible. if you are not over pitching and dont have added nutrient you will have very very stressed out yeast at 17p.

dry yeast doesnt need a starter.

how are you taking your grav? you need a hydrometer. a refract will not read accurately with alcohol.
Yeast is US-5 and sometimes Lalb Kveik. I and now going to use hydrometer b4 bottling...
 
Yeast is US-5 and sometimes Lalb Kveik. I and now going to use hydrometer b4 bottling...
i really like apex yeast its cheap and easy. they have voss which is my personal favorite.

post your recipe and elaborate on what you did and we can get you better help/info.

#vosslife

#beefin'
 
I ferment at 70-74...
I'm at around 1065-1070 b4 fermenter. Healthy yeast. I'm mashing at 165-180. I am RAW boil not above 185degrees.

That is a really high mash temp. You're basically mashing in at mash out temps. I would expect quite a bit of unfermentables left in the wort. Not 1.035, but a lot. I could see 1.020's.

Agree with @Bigbre04, a single pitch of even dry yeast is dodgy here. If it's healthy, should be ok but given your results maybe we need to revisit.

Have you had your water analyzed? Tap water with a lot of chlorine or chloramine will definitely inhibit fermentation. That's an easy and inexpensive test - buy some spring water from the local store- enough for your total brew day pre-fermenter. From any rehydration / or starter culture all the way through sparge, if any, and see if that takes you closer to the finish line.

I would mash at closer to 152F, use either store bought spring water or some "known source" good water. If you get closer to expected FG, you have a pretty convincing circumstantial case that you made an improvement. The best way from a troubleshooting perspective is to change one thing at a time. But you're doing enough different that could take several brews to sqaure away. I would suggest adhering closer to a home brewing 101 how to or using a similar recipe from online see what you get.
 
That is a really high mash temp. You're basically mashing in at mash out temps. I would expect quite a bit of unfermentables left in the wort. Not 1.035, but a lot. I could see 1.020's.

Agree with @Bigbre04, a single pitch of even dry yeast is dodgy here. If it's healthy, should be ok but given your results maybe we need to revisit.

Have you had your water analyzed? Tap water with a lot of chlorine or chloramine will definitely inhibit fermentation. That's an easy and inexpensive test - buy some spring water from the local store- enough for your total brew day pre-fermenter. From any rehydration / or starter culture all the way through sparge, if any, and see if that takes you closer to the finish line.

I would mash at closer to 152F, use either store bought spring water or some "known source" good water. If you get closer to expected FG, you have a pretty convincing circumstantial case that you made an improvement. The best way from a troubleshooting perspective is to change one thing at a time. But you're doing enough different that could take several brews to sqaure away. I would suggest adhering closer to a home brewing 101 how to or using a similar recipe from online see what you get.
i totally didnt see that mash temp. ya that batch is toast. at those temps you have cooked off your enzymes. Likely starved the yeast out.

147-149 will get you clean dry beer.
 

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