Gas to electric kettle conversion

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Brewer #416886

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I recently purchased a boiler to use on the stove top, but my stove doesn't get the wort to a nice rolling boil. I was considering converting the kettle to electric and wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions or advice.

Here is what I purchased: https://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/30-ltr-gas-boiler-with-tap-hop-strainer-and-thermometer.html

I was thinking of adding one or more of these: https://brew2bottle.co.uk/collectio...roducts/32l-fermentation-bucket-spare-element

I guess my concerns are:
How to control the heat (inkbird?) and getting a good seal.
 
Brewer #416886 said:
I recently purchased a boiler to use on the stove top, but my stove doesn't get the wort to a nice rolling boil. I was considering converting the kettle to electric and wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions or advice.

Here is what I purchased: https://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/30-ltr-gas-boiler-with-tap-hop-strainer-and-thermometer.html

I was thinking of adding one or more of these: https://brew2bottle.co.uk/collectio...roducts/32l-fermentation-bucket-spare-element

I guess my concerns are:
How to control the heat (inkbird?) and getting a good seal.
Click to expand...
This will get it boiling no issue at all. get a weldless bulkhead and a stainless hole saw. mine gets 5 gal (19L) to a boil in about 20 minutes.

I wouldn't control it with an inkbird. you can separate the coils for (3) 1500w elements. use switches or a PWM supply.

https://a.co/d/c8DFiqz
 
Brewer #416886 said:
I recently purchased a boiler to use on the stove top, but my stove doesn't get the wort to a nice rolling boil. I was considering converting the kettle to electric and wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions or advice.

Here is what I purchased: https://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/30-ltr-gas-boiler-with-tap-hop-strainer-and-thermometer.html

I was thinking of adding one or more of these: https://brew2bottle.co.uk/collectio...roducts/32l-fermentation-bucket-spare-element

I guess my concerns are:
How to control the heat (inkbird?) and getting a good seal.
Click to expand...
As for a seal, the element comes with a silicone gasket and a nice-looking nut, tighten it with a spanner. The issue to be solved to putting a hole the right size into the pot.

As for control, an inkbird has two concerns: First, it is an on-off controller, meaning on and off is all it can do. For a boil, all you need is on. For a mash, a PWM temperature control is a better choice. Second, not sure an inkbird can handle that many watts, even if you did use one.
 
Donoroto said:
As for a seal, the element comes with a silicone gasket and a nice-looking nut, tighten it with a spanner. The issue to be solved to putting a hole the right size into the pot.

As for control, an inkbird has two concerns: First, it is an on-off controller, meaning on and off is all it can do. For a boil, all you need is on. For a mash, a PWM temperature control is a better choice. Second, not sure an inkbird can handle that many watts, even if you did use one.
Click to expand...
It can't directly. But control the elements with SSR and its cake. As you mentioned, not a good solution for the boil
 
It’s really hard to say what you should do, but if you’re going control it, the best solution is a PID. You can set your temperature to 99.5C and forget it. If you a stronger boil turn it up .1 C. Adjust as needed for the boil.

That being said, it’s not an easy thing to build unless you have some experience with such things. You would need to control the loop with a SSR. You would also need a temperature probe in the boil.

A pulse width modulator would work too, but you would need to adjust it as you boil, it would not be automatic like a PID.

Like I said prior, it’s not a slam dunk or easy solution. Good luck.
 
Minbari said:
That is damn cool. They come up with some cool shit
Click to expand...
I was seriously looking at this unit when I went electric but didn't wanna deal with different plug types American Australian electrical wall plugs...
 
Brewer #416886 said:
It might be easier and cheaper to stick with gas and purchase a large burner. I'd rather avoid contributing to global warming though.
Click to expand...
Hey you know you can mash with that inkbird man!

You'll need a power watt meter though to lessen the temp swings.

So plug the power watt meter into the heat out side of the inkbird controller then when mashing you can lower the wattage to your element this will stop the temperature overshooting too much.

How I know this you may ask?

Personal experience my man I used to mash using ant STC1000 with PWM inline.
I was able to reduce element to 500watts and keep within .5c overshoots Fing wonderful if ya ask me man.

Sleep on it.
 
For a cheap easy temp controller I recommend a solid state relay controlled by a potentiometer.
https://a.co/d/dLk9Xc9
Get a 1” weldless bung and a 1500 watt 220 volt hot water heater element and sabotage an old heavy duty extension cord
 
Brunosky said:
For a cheap easy temp controller I recommend a solid state relay controlled by a potentiometer.
https://a.co/d/dLk9Xc9
Get a 1” weldless bung and a 1500 watt 220 volt hot water heater element and sabotage an old heavy duty extension cord
Click to expand...
Edit 1500 watt 110 volt heating element
 
Brunosky said:
For a cheap easy temp controller I recommend a solid state relay controlled by a potentiometer.
https://a.co/d/dLk9Xc9
Get a 1” weldless bung and a 1500 watt 220 volt hot water heater element and sabotage an old heavy duty extension cord
Click to expand...
wouldnt recommend this. I went the hot water heater element path and they are hard to clean compared to stainless. plus there is no good way to insulate the connectors. water and 220VAC is not a good combination.

1500 watts is really not enough heat to boil 30L of water. you certainly can get higher wattage ones, but you need to run 220VAC for anything higher than 1500 watts.

that temp "controller" doesnt really control temp though. its an SSR. its either on or off. that POT will do literally nothing. get a cheap PWM module and it will have power control.
 
Minbari said:
wouldnt recommend this. I went the hot water heater element path and they are hard to clean compared to stainless. plus there is no good way to insulate the connectors. water and 220VAC is not a good combination.

1500 watts is really not enough heat to boil 30L of water. you certainly can get higher wattage ones, but you need to run 220VAC for anything higher than 1500 watts.

that temp "controller" doesnt really control temp though. its an SSR. its either on or off. that POT will do literally nothing. get a cheap PWM module and it will have power control.
Click to expand...
Have you ever used on of these “controllers” or are you just regurgitating something you have read? It is true SSRs are either on or off, however the frequency is 60 hertz ie 60 times per second. So yes the electricity is technically turned “ on or off” but in a very rapid manner. The potentiometer controls the voltage applied to the element ie 25 volts 60 times a second or 40 volts 60 times a second etc..

And to your point of it being under powered 1500 watts will bring a five gallon batch to a boil. You can go bigger to a 240 volt element very easily, with the same “controller”.

And to your third point. Please see the attached link. Tricamp so easy to remove, plus non exposed wiring.

https://a.co/d/9jnKXlx
 
Brunosky said:
Have you ever used on of these “controllers” or are you just regurgitating something you have read? It is true SSRs are either on or off, however the frequency is 60 hertz ie 60 times per second. So yes the electricity is technically turned “ on or off” but in a very rapid manner. The potentiometer controls the voltage applied to the element ie 25 volts 60 times a second or 40 volts 60 times a second etc..
Click to expand...

I understand the concept. its still not a temp controller. most SSRs are optically isolated with an LED, that kinda system is hap hazard at best. you a relying on biasing the LED on and off by limiting current under the switch on voltage with the sine wave of the input. you have a very small window to accomplish that. if you like it, so be it, there are much better solutions
And to your point of it being under powered 1500 watts will bring a five gallon batch to a boil. You can go bigger to a 240 volt element very easily, with the same “controller”.
Click to expand...

was just pointing out that 1500 watts would not be suffient and more than 1500 watts cant be done at 110VAC
And to your third point. Please see the attached link. Tricamp so easy to remove, plus non exposed wiring.

https://a.co/d/9jnKXlx
Click to expand...

that is not a water heat element (will not accommodate a 1" weldless bung). it is specifically designed for brewing. they are a very good choice, I have many of them.
 
Last edited:
Minbari said:
I understand the concept. its still not a temp controller. most SSRs are optically isolated with an LED, that kinda system is hap hazard at best. you a relying on biasing the LED on and off by limiting current under the switch on voltage with the sine wave of the input. you have a very small window to accomplish that. if you like it, so be it, there are much better solutions


was just pointing out that 1500 watts would not be suffient and more than 1500 watts cant be done at 110VAC


that is not a water heat element (will not accommodate a 1" weldless bung). it is specifically designed for brewing. they are a very good choice, I have many of them.
Click to expand...
How do control your electric element? I use a Inkbird PID controller through a SSR.
 
IMG_0496.jpeg
Here
 
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