Fermentation stop to fast (2nd time 2nd bach)

Mastoras007 said:
I know but can this effect the taste?
Why the brewery use wilrpoor then
Click to expand...
I always drain my kettle through a double mesh strainer to catch most of the hop debris. But most of the other trub go into the fermenter. This has no impact on the beer itself. Regarding boil hops in the fermenter: Since we regularly add dry hops directly to the fermenter, I'm sure boil hops going into the fermenter will not have an impact on the beer's flavor; at least not a negative one. However, they might contribute to cloudiness. I think the only advantage to a proper whirlpool is clearer beer. Note: You can still add whirlpool hops even if you can't create a proper whirlpool. I do. Just stir frequently of keep your pump running to keep the wort and hops in motion.
 
I would say a small amount of trub and hops getting into the fermenter is a non-issue. It will settle out fairly quickly.
 
It will not affect flavor enough to taste.

Big breweries use whirlpool because they have several kilos of hops, just dumped in, and it will clog their filter too fast. The fine dust bits go in to their fermenter, the big chunks are captured by whirlpool.

You do not need to worry about whirlpool, but if you do this, it is not harmful. Just stir the boil pot with a large spoon or paddle, let it stop naturally, then draw off the wort from the side (not the center!).
 
Ok thanks for your answers!
Tomorrow is day 10 of fermentation so i will put it tne dry hoops (4 days)
After those days I'm planning to lagerin for few days more
The hops must drop in tomorrow or 4 last days of lagerin?
 
Mastoras007 said:
I know but can this effect the taste?
Why the brewery use wilrpoor then
Click to expand...
Edit :Just saw Don's Post

Their Whirlpool is practically similar.

All Whirlpooling is to achieve a nice conical trub cone so you don't transfer too much trub/hop debris.

Some make it through into the kettle not to the beers detriment some trub can provide necessary nutrients for yeasts healthy fermentation.

I've even used my Whirlpool hops in the fermenter being too lazy to remove the hop bag maybe astringent or grassy might be an issue....
 
So, three different questions here.

The purpose of a whirlpool, or hopstand is to allow hops to to impart flavor and aroma into the beer. A secondary reason for a whirlpool is to cause the hop debris to settle into the middle of the kettle to prevent it being transferred to the fermenter. Is it necessary? Depends on how much hops you are adding to the kettle.

Transferring trub and hoops (hops) into fermenter.
All good no issues there, go for it. If it was in the kettle, it can be in the fermenter.

Dry hopping
How much to add and when to add it?
It all depends on the recipe, no wrong answer to this question. Dry hops add mostly aroma, but also some flavor.
What did your recipe call for? Whatever it was do that.
 
Craigerrr said:
Dry hopping
How much to add and when to add it?
It all depends on the recipe, no wrong answer to this question. Dry hops add mostly aroma, but also some flavor.
What did your recipe call for? Whatever it was do that
Click to expand...
Recipe say Dry hop 4 days.
But 4 days from what? fermenting or lagering
 
Any way i just put them in.
I take some pictures take a look, there is any sign of infection?
IMG_20240312_122917.jpg
IMG_20240312_122931.jpg
 
Looks good to me.
I would say, just leave it alone now.
No sampling, no anything for a week to 10 days or so.
Then maybe a check to see if fermentation has finished (SG sample and again one 2 or 3 days later)

Sit back, relax :)
 
looks good to me. no sign of infection
 
I make today quality test, Beer taste ok, no sing of infection yet, thats a good start of my brewing career!
The sample o take was to dirty, had alot of hops dust.
i'm wondering how i will transfer it in to the keg.
i'm litle afraid to make a new transfer to another fermentantion bucket for cleaning.
any sugestions? i was thinking to put something under the backet to give it some degrees opposite from valve so to remove dust from the valve, is this a good idea?
 
Mastoras007 said:
I make today quality test, Beer taste ok, no sing of infection yet, thats a good start of my brewing career!
The sample o take was to dirty, had alot of hops dust.
i'm wondering how i will transfer it in to the keg.
i'm litle afraid to make a new transfer to another fermentantion bucket for cleaning.
any sugestions? i was thinking to put something under the backet to give it some degrees opposite from valve so to remove dust from the valve, is this a good idea?
Click to expand...
You have temp control? Do a cold crash for 7 days cold as you can (without freezing) add a fining agent if you have it. Most of that stuff should fall out. Then transfer
 
And if you don't have temp control, don't worry too much.
Let it go for a bit longer than you would with a cold crash and put the fermenter at an angle like you mentioned.
Transfer to keg.
It will all settle at the bottom eventually.
Just look into a floating dip tube, so you take your beer from a bit higher in the keg.
Very chuffed to hear that your beer tastes OK! You are getting there!
 
Mastoras007 said:
I make today quality test, Beer taste ok, no sing of infection yet, thats a good start of my brewing career!
The sample o take was to dirty, had alot of hops dust.
i'm wondering how i will transfer it in to the keg.
i'm litle afraid to make a new transfer to another fermentantion bucket for cleaning.
any sugestions? i was thinking to put something under the backet to give it some degrees opposite from valve so to remove dust from the valve, is this a good idea?
Click to expand...
Yes. Tilt the fermenter now, then do not move it for a day or three. Then drain it a bit slowly.

If you move the fermenter, even a little, the trub gets stirred up. Then time only can help.
 
Minbari said:
You have temp control? Do a cold crash for 7 days cold as you can (without freezing) add a fining agent if you have it. Most of that stuff should fall out. Then transfer
Click to expand...
I use a control tempreture system only for heating, i can turn it of but then i will have tempreture fluctuations,
any way i will turn it off for few days, i Tilt it also alitle bit
 
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Mastoras007 said:
I use a control tempreture system only for heating, i can turn it of but then i will have tempreture fluctuations,
any way i will turn it off for few days, i Tilt it also alitle bit
Click to expand...
Temp control for heat will not be needed any more. You can keg it and chill and let it settle in that too
 
Mastoras007 said:
I know but can this effect the taste?
Why the brewery use wilrpoor then
Click to expand...
Whirlpools are used for several reasons - the first is as you think - it causes particulates to drop into the center of the kettle and your final run off to be clearer. It also helps avoid clogs in pumps for breweries. Additionally, whirlpools are done for late hop additions at specific temperature rests for peak flavor/aroma contributions from hops without the bittering (or at least less bittering than in the boil or at flame out). Lots to read on the subject if you're interested.

On the homebrew level... it really depends on the brewer and the brewer's equipment. If you don't have a pump and aren't trying some specific hop temperature rest - you can negate it all together. I personally never do one... I tried once and didn't feel the added time/effort was warranted. Granted - I make and drink beers that lean towards malt or are balanced. I do not do IPAs or even Pale Ales. I stick to under 30 IBUs and shy away from anything beyond a 15-5 minute hop addition.

As for the grain particulates - don't sweat it. let it all drop out with a good cold crash :)
 
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