Yeast Nutrient

[Mike at Bay]

I am fermenting a GF beer for my son. It called for yeast nutrient after 1/3 of fermentation was completed. The product I had on hand was LD Carlson Urea/DAP based nutrient. According to package instructions I was to use 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons. After doing a little bit of research this appears to be the wrong approach. Should have used less or a different product.

I never needed nutrient for previous beers as the fermentation took off and was done in 3 days or so......this one was slow.

 

[Mike at Bay]

I am fermenting a GF beer for my son. It called for yeast nutrient after 1/3 of fermentation was completed. The product I had on hand was LD Carlson Urea/DAP based nutrient. According to package instructions I was to use 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons. After doing a little bit of research this appears to be the wrong approach. Should have used less or a different product.

I never needed nutrient for previous beers as the fermentation took off and was done in 3 days or so......this one was slow.

based on my "too little too late" research it appears I should throw away the urea based yeast nutrient and if the beer survives fermentation (sorghum based GF beer) I should likely not serve.

 

[HighVoltageMan!]

There is a debate among brewers whether or not to use nutrient with beer brewing. The malt provides almost everything the yeast needs during fermentation with the exception of zinc. Some say it helps and others say it's not needed.

Now when to add it it is also a bit of a debate as to when to add the nutrient if you decide to use it. Most homebrewers and pro's add nutrient at he end of the boil, but others say the nutrient should be added in the fermenter at the beginning of the fermentation because most of the zinc gets dropped out during the boil.

I add Wyeast nutrient in the fermenter (cold side) to help with overall health and attenuation, mainly I'm looking zinc. Adding nutrient mid-fermentation is something done with meads and wines and not beer. Slow or sluggish fermentation is usually directly related to yeast pitch and health and not lack of nutrient.

 

[Mike at Bay]

There is a debate among brewers whether or not to use nutrient with beer brewing. The malt provides almost everything the yeast needs during fermentation with the exception of zinc. Some say it helps and others say it's not needed.

Now when to add it it is also a bit of a debate as to when to add the nutrient if you decide to use it. Most homebrewers and pro's add nutrient at he end of the boil, but others say the nutrient should be added in the fermenter at the beginning of the fermentation because most of the zinc gets dropped out during the boil.

I add Wyeast nutrient in the fermenter (cold side) to help with overall health and attenuation, mainly I'm looking zinc. Adding nutrient mid-fermentation is something done with meads and wines and not beer. Slow or sluggish fermentation is usually directly related to yeast pitch and health and not lack of nutrient.

Yeah I think to be safe I will toss and start again. Waiting it out just prolongs the agony.

 

[Brew Cat]

Safe from what?
It's just nutrients
I doubt it ruined anything

 

[Mike at Bay]

Safe from what?
It's just nutrients
I doubt it ruined anything

I may be overreacting but it appears the Urea/DAP based nutrients can be harmful (Google's AI says know carcinogen). I will wait it out.....

 

[Bigbre04]

I use Yeastx yeast nutrient. I have used it in every batch that i have brewed in the last 20 years(i shit you not EVERY batch). I have had extremely consistent fermentations across a whole bunch of styles, abvs, yeasts, and brewhouses.

That being said, I have tried various other forms and always end up back at Yeast X as it is cheap, consistent, easy to get, and reliable. I add 20 grams at 15 mins along with 10-15 grams of Kick Carrageenin.

I cant really attest to not using it as i have always used it.

 

[Mike at Bay]

I use Yeastx yeast nutrient. I have used it in every batch that i have brewed in the last 20 years(i shit you not EVERY batch). I have had extremely consistent fermentations across a whole bunch of styles, abvs, yeasts, and brewhouses.

That being said, I have tried various other forms and always end up back at Yeast X as it is cheap, consistent, easy to get, and reliable. I add 20 grams at 15 mins along with 10-15 grams of Kick Carrageenin.

I cant really attest to not using it as i have always used it.

Thanks. Normally don't use YN but I will look into your suggestions. Only used it this time as it was a GF recipe based in Sorghum.

 

[Bigbre04]

Thanks. Normally don't use YN but I will look into your suggestions. Only used it this time as it was a GF recipe based in Sorghum.

It doesnt hurt to use it and if it helps at all its worth it.

Gf is a tougher one. I dont have any experience with that. But I am curious why you would need to add nutrient halfway through vs the beginning or in the kettle.

 

[Mike at Bay]

It doesnt hurt to use it and if it helps at all its worth it.

Gf is a tougher one. I dont have any experience with that. But I am curious why you would need to add nutrient halfway through vs the beginning or in the kettle.

Good question. I was following kit instructions. Recommended yeast nutrient after 1/3 of the way (sugar depletion; their words) through fermentation. Coincidentally the fermentation was much slower than I was used to so it seemed like a reasonable thing to do. AI was little help...it said 5 teaspoons was a "massive overdose" and led me to believe I would kill my family and friends.

 

[Mike at Bay]

Good question. I was following kit instructions. Recommended yeast nutrient after 1/3 of the way (sugar depletion; their words) through fermentation. Coincidentally the fermentation was much slower than I was used to so it seemed like a reasonable thing to do. AI was little help...it said 5 teaspoons was a "massive overdose" and led me to believe I would kill my family and friends.

It is really cooking now. I moved from airlock to blowoff tube just in case. Many years ago I literally blew the lid off a SSbrewtech fermentor. with a high gravity porter....bent the lid so bad I had to replace it. Didn't want to do that again.....but this is a much lower gravity beer....started at 1.044

 

[Donoroto]

5 tsp in 5 gallons is more than needed. 1/2 tsp is likely fine. I do not believe Google when it calls that dangerous. That said, tossing the batch is not terribly expensive, and if it eases your mind to do so, then do so.

Everything causes cancer. (Just ask California. Or Joe Jackson).

 

[Mike at Bay]

5 tsp in 5 gallons is more than needed. 1/2 tsp is likely fine. I do not believe Google when it calls that dangerous. That said, tossing the batch is not terribly expensive, and if it eases your mind to do so, then do so.

Everything causes cancer. (Just ask California. Or Joe Jackson).

. Thanks. I decided to keep it going. If it tastes horrible I will worry about it at that point. yes...expensive and time consuming.

 

[Brew Cat]

I agree with limiting carcinogens myself so next time don't use it if you're worried
Carcinogens add up over time so we do what we can
I had a bought and lost to many to not at least think about it

 

[Mike at Bay]

I agree with limiting carcinogens myself so next time don't use it if you're worried
Carcinogens add up over time so we do what we can
I had a bought and lost to many to not at least think about it

Agreed. My wife is on the good side a cancer recovery so it is top of mind but I tossed the LD Carlson yeast nutrient so no more in the future and kept the beer so hopefully my son can enjoy a few and then we he leaves I can make room for a nice Choc Peanut Butter Cup Porter. . All normal grains.

 

[Semper Sitientum]

I use bakers yeast for nutrient. It provides nitrogen, amino acids and minerals. Must add it during the last 15 minutes of the boil in order to kill the cells so they don’t compete with the beer yeast. It’s cheap insurance. Does it actually do anything? In my mind it does. So, psychologically I feel like I’m helping the yeast so I make better beer.