What are you doing with homebrew today?

Herm brews said:
Thanks Craig. For the past few months I have been dealing with the demise of my father. There is still plenty of work to do, but I am home for a brief respite from the madness.
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Sorry for your loss! My ex-FIL passed on Monday, Alzheimer's is a cruel disease!
 
Brew day. Just under five gallons of Hazy Juicy Chewy #3 in the fermenter. My latest attempt at a NEIPA. Differences this time: less flaked and more malted wheat and oats, lower pH target, mash hopped with Noble hops before whirlpooling with Citra and Amarillo.
Plan to dry hop once with them on day 7 after fermentation has ended (not at high krausen) after a soft crash (down to 50) when it's back up to 60). Hard crash and transfer to serving keg on day 8 or 9.
 
Box of Rocks said:
Brew day. Just under five gallons of Hazy Juicy Chewy #3 in the fermenter. My latest attempt at a NEIPA. Differences this time: less flaked and more malted wheat and oats, lower pH target, mash hopped with Noble hops before whirlpooling with Citra and Amarillo.
Plan to dry hop once with them on day 7 after fermentation has ended (not at high krausen) after a soft crash (down to 50) when it's back up to 60). Hard crash and transfer to serving keg on day 8 or 9.
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What yeast are you using?
 
Using up some old hops (northern brewer and cashmere) in a pale ale brew today, and testing out my new gear
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Built a new table for my equipment upgrades in progress. Will add a shelf underneath to stow the kettles and mount a RIMS tube as well. Debating mounting the pump or just making a better mount (current one is just a chunk of 3/4 plywood. I put some small casters on it but not sure they’re gonna stay. Depends on how well they roll with a full mash sitting on top.

The best part is I have $0 invested in the table. The legs came off an old computer desk and the top was some lumber scrap I had. I added the cross brace to the back with some scrap metal from some crates.
It’s 3/4” shorter than my brew bench but will be nearly 2.5” shorter without the casters if I decide to take them off. High enough above the BK for gravity draining the mash, but I’ll probably still pump it since the pump will already be connected to the mash tun and primed with wort from recirculating the mash.
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Josh Hughes said:
Saved slurry from my 70 shilling and cleaned fermenter
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Gonna saw the limb off behind me and ask what the difference is between 60 shilling and 70 Shilling. 10 shillings? There, I beat the smart alecks to the obvious punchline.
 
RoadRoach said:
Gonna saw the limb off behind me and ask what the difference is between 60 shilling and 70 Shilling. 10 shillings? There, I beat the smart alecks to the obvious punchline.
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60 is darker and low in alcohol. Like a low 3 English dark mild with the cleaner Scottish yeast and touch more malt sweetness.
70 is mid 3% to 4 and lighter in color. Still low bitternpress mine was around 18 ibu
 
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Josh Hughes said:
60 is darker and low in alcohol. Like a low 3 English dark mild with the cleaner Scottish yeast and touch more malt sweetness.
70 is mid 3% to 4 and lighter in color. Still low bitternpress mine was around 18 ibu
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So much akin to a low ABV brown. Got me thinking road trip. If there’s anything I’ve learned from this hobby it’s that I like brown ale. Don’t think I’ve had a bad one yet. A lower ABV brown sounds like it might be a bit sweeter, or did you adjust with a lighter grain bill and let the yeast get bored?

Oops, wrong button.

Do you find some of the darker malts tend to mess with anticipated bitterness and have to correct with lower bittering hops weight to hit your flavor targets?
 
RoadRoach said:
So much akin to a low ABV brown. Got me thinking road trip. If there’s anything I’ve learned from this hobby it’s that I like brown ale. Don’t think I’ve had a bad one yet. A lower ABV brown sounds like it might be a bit sweeter, or did you adjust with a lighter grain bill and let the yeast get bored?

Oops, wrong button.

Do you find some of the darker malts tend to mess with anticipated bitterness and have to correct with lower bittering hops weight to hit your flavor targets?
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Usually Scottish ales have a touch of roasted malt instead of extra crystal or chocolate. Balanced out well. There is a touch of malt sweetness but this is one to have over and over which more crystal could do. Some just have pale malt and roast. Hit the flavor targets for me.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1468408/joshs-edinburgh-best
 
I moved simple cider to my oxebar keg and cleaned the fermenter & auto syphon.
I found I deserved a glass of wheat beer and the keg kicked. So cleaned that keg.
Only had a little bit of wheat beer and when I went to get myself a sessions ipa I checked catbonation and could hear a little hiss.
Tried tightening the connections, but that didn't seem to work. Replaced the tapping head with the one I just cleaned.
Purged air again a number of times.
I can't really see where the other tapping head is leaking. That's for tomorrow to figure out. Looks like it is on the PRV.

Now having that sessions ipa and chilling (if you can talk about chilling at 32 oC/90 F)
 
Zambi said:
I moved simple cider to my oxebar keg and cleaned the fermenter & auto syphon.
I found I deserved a glass of wheat beer and the keg kicked. So cleaned that keg.
Only had a little bit of wheat beer and when I went to get myself a sessions ipa I checked catbonation and could hear a little hiss.
Tried tightening the connections, but that didn't seem to work. Replaced the tapping head with the one I just cleaned.
Purged air again a number of times.
I can't really see where the other tapping head is leaking. That's for tomorrow to figure out. Looks like it is on the PRV.

Now having that sessions ipa and chilling (if you can talk about chilling at 32 oC/90 F)
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You could try spraying sanitizer or soapy water on your gas connections. If there's a leak you should see bubbling liquid at the source of the leak. My other thought is to re-lube all rubber gaskets and connections with food safe lubricant. I buy keg lube from the LHBS, but if you can't have that delivered you could try maybe vasoline or lanolin or something similar?
 
I'm just going to attach the tapping head to the keg, put in some gas and put upside down in a bucket of water.
Just like fixing a bicycle tyre :)
The oxebar kegs are light, so pretty easy to deal with.
I'll als check on the o rings, thanks.
 
So, I did what I said.
I filled keg with CO2 and could hear gas hissing out.
Put under water, and it stopped.
It really did!
The keg is now standing upright, full of pressure and I don't hear any hissing sound. Gonna leave it standing for a couple of days to be sure...
 
I have picked up lube at the hardware store as well. In the water filter section. For the o rings on the water filters.
 
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